2ManyZs

27MM which is also equal to 1 1/16. That's what the L-24's are and I'm fairly positive all the L series are the same. Torque is 116-130ft/lbs

As long as they are the early 260 taillights they should fit with no problem, the later ones with the reverse light separate like the 280's won't without some modifications...

Which rear taillight assembly are you asking about?

If you just want steel braided hoses try www.jegs.com www.summitracing.com www.www.pegasusautoracing.com Victoria British has the stock steel lines in their catalog if you need them...

The fuel systems are all basically the same. The only 240 that had an electric fuel pump at the tank were the 73's due to a recall by the factory to cure the vapor lock problems they had. You can put an electric pump on any of the 240's and do away with the mechanical pump if you wish. The way you have described it, you may have a blockage of the pickup in the tank due to rust and corrosion in the tank. Have you tried using compressed air through the hard line before the filter to see if it clears? You might be furhter ahead to run the tank down low on fuel, and then pull the drain plug and see if you get a lot of crud out of the bottom of the tank, if so, then you might better consider having the tank dropped and cleaned/re-sealed to prevent any further contamination of the fuel system.

Let's wait and see if he will post a pic of the interior, the console should tell some of the "rest of the story"..... Judging by the looks of the car, it's nearly into "parts only" category with all the pats that are missing and the brushed on primer on the body. Wonder how bad the rust is.....

The control arm is probably moving a bit in its bushing making the alignment seem off. You should bolt the T/C rod to the control arm first, then mount the T/C rod to the frame mount. You should have gotten a U shaped gauge with the bushing kit, this is to preload the bushings while tightening the T/C rod nut. This will put your control arm into proper alignment. As far as the ball joint goes, I've had a couple that needed just a little filing on the control arm holes to fit the bolts, not a big deal. Guess there is a bit of a disparity between manufacturers, even though there really shouldn't be.

Actually I think you might find the stock bolts are zinc plated. The only way to make sure they never rust is to go stainless....

Might the cars location have something to do with it?:devious:

I haven't done one, but have seen many sunroofs welded shut on race cars. Some look like there was never one there, others look like someone used a spatula and dabbed JB Weld on it to seal it.. If you want it done right, you'd have to pay the price for someone who knows what they are doing....

I've used a couple of them, and they are fairly simple. Are you using one with a header or the stock manifold? You might need to do a little welding if you are going to use a header at the headpipe/header flange connection. But that is not that difficult. One thing I would suggest is using the stainless steel band clamps if you have the car lowered to give you as much clearance as possible. They are expensive when compared to the "old style" U-bolt clamps, but they do not crimp the pipes and that in itself will make it so much easier if you ever have to remove the exhaust without tearing it up to change a muffler etc...Plus, they offer the benefit of being so thin and won't hang up on a lift or whatever. I've had a 2 1/2 inch pipe clamp catch an alignment rack ramp and yank the whole exhaust loose...:stupid: Take your time and don't fully tighten the clamps until you have the entire exhaust system where you want it. Wait until you have the exhaust exactly where you want it before you tighten the clamps for the final time, just leave them a bit loose so you can move exhaust by twisting the pipes until you get a good fit.

If that isn't an aluminum caliper then the price is way too high... The link I posted has a four piston aluminum caliper kit for 650.. The Toyota vented rotor upgrade is only 450 for the complete kit...

You might try scouring the parts stores and hardware stores for stainless steel bumper bolts... That way you'll never have to worry about them rusting and you can polish them to look nearly as good as chrome. As far as the old ones go, if they are that rusty, trying to clean them up to be replated will more than likely ruin the threads on them anyways...

Doubt if you will get an inch and a half as the mounting bolts on the rails aren't that long, but you might get 1/2 inch.

I'd go for the higher output, especially if you are running the H4 lights or planning on upgrading in the future. It's not like the one they offer is that much higher than stock, but every little bit will help.

Stop wearing those mini-skirts and stilletto heels... Yes, you can raise it a bit, if you look there are plastic spacers under the seat already, or there should be anyways, you could always find another set of them and add them to what is there now.... Or you could have someone take the seat out and add a locknut to the mounting stud so that you could adjust the seat up and down, by using a nut on the top and bottom, you could adjust it to where you wanted.... Beware, you'll be making some really strange contortions to reach those mounts...Just make sure the neighbor doesn't have a camera in his hand if you do it...:devious:

If the directions call for a 12 inch spring and 8 in the front and 5 in the rear and you are going to use a 10 inch spring? I think you ought to go 8 in front and 5 in the rear to be sure you will have to use up most of your adjustment to get the car up to where it needs to be.... You might end up having the perch to low for a 10 inch spring at 7..... I'll get out in the garage and double check the perches on the 240 tomorrow after a little more of the snowbank melts down... Why didn't you think to get the measurement when you were here???:stupid:

Thought you liked those colors that were "different"...

I have a feeling this is only used for drag racing, but a road course would be fun.... With the sleds they have today putting out in excess of 140hp and under 500lbs, this would be an exciting ride to say the least......:cross-eye

Nice, but the color is, well..........:sick: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2404850066&category=6187

Although it is a 73 it definately looks like one that will bring a fairly high price... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2404942038&category=6187

I guess if you can't afford a race car and don't like the idea of the "family jewels" being 2 inches off the ground with a kart, this is a wild alternative..... Fuuny how a snowmobile made its way to Florida, but I guess he had to do something to be able to use it.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2404763076&category=6736

He's really not that high considering they are vented rotors with something other than the Toyota calipers. They look almost like Porsche calipers or some type of aftermarket (Wilwood, Outlaw or what?). Take a look at this link and compare the prices... http://fonebooth.com/brakes_zcar.html

Looks pretty good to me except for the taillights and whale tail.... of course that's just my opinion.... I really like the way they did the hidden headlights though... But, with all the obvious work that went into the car, I have to wonder why the price is not very high. I'm wondering if the car has some hidden problems like rust or something wrong in the drivetrain. With all the body work and mods, I would expect a price that was double that...