2ManyZs

It's not just you Carl, it's the way he posts them...:cross-eye

Hate to tell you this Bonnie, but it holds 5 quarts with a filter change.....:cross-eye

The sliders from 75-78 are the same, but, if I'm not mistaken, the sliders will fit onto a 240 seat so that you could use any of them, just change the sliders.

The following analogies might help to clarify the various concepts of Marketing Communications, or "tools of the trade" You see a handsome guy at a party. You go up to him and say, "I'm fantastic in bed." That's Direct Marketing.... You're at a party with a bunch of friends and see a handsome guy. One of your friends goes up to him and pointing at you says, "She's fantastic in bed." That's Advertising.... You see a handsome guy at a party. You go up to him and get his telephone number. The next day you call him and say, "Hi, I'm fantastic in bed." That's Telemarketing.... You're at a party and you see a handsome guy. You get up and straighten your dress. You walk up to him and pour him a drink. You say, "May I," and reach out to straighten his tie brushing your breast lightly against his arm, and then say, "By the way, I'm fantastic in bed." That's Public Relations.... You're at a party and see a handsome guy. He walks up to you and says, "I hear you are fantastic in bed." That's Brand Recognition..... You're at a party and you see a hadsome guy. You talk him into going home with your friend. That's a Sales Rep. Your friend doesn't satisfy him so he calls you..... That's Tech Support..... You're on your way home when you realize that there could be handsome men in all those homes you are passing. So you climb up onto the roof of one in situated near the center and shout at the top of your lungs, "I'm fantastic in bed" That's Spam.....

I guess I should have explained my reasoning in my first post a little better...... guess I'm getting too much radiation from my monitor...:cross-eye

That's why I suggested the 5 BTDC as a baseline setting. If the distributor has no more adjustment left just to get to 5 degrees then it will show that the timing gear is indeed advanced and the problem will become more obvious.

It should be a simple bolt on. The larger master cylinder should increase line pressure slightly due to the fact it is able to displace a bit more fluid. Not a huge gain, but with the 4 piston calipers and rear discs it might be more noticeable than if you had the stock brakes. Stock cylinder size is 7/8 so the 15/16 is not that large a gain, but the only other way you could do it would be with a totally different master cylinder arrangement.

Have you checked the timing with a timing light? It should be 5BTDC static timing. Have you checked to see if the vacuum advance is working? Do you have the correct spark plugs and gap? Have you verified the point gap if you still have points? Could you have a pair of plug wires that are swapped around and that is whay you think is pinging? Lots of questions with no real answers, but it will give you some ideas anyways......

These are the numbers I got from an ex-buddy who worked at Auto Zone for the 79-84 4x4 calipers. FWIW anyways.... 7142 L/H 7141 R/H $69.94 each plus 30 core D137 Carbon metallic pads to fit were $11.99 back then

I thought the same thing Victor, shame we all couldn't have someone like that to look at our cars. Haven't heard his name in a while though or seen it in any race results. Has he retired from racing?

A lot of this will have to do with the condition of the engine itself. A completely rebuilt engine ( from top to bottom including carbs and ignition) will probably tolerate a lower idle speed. Then you need to take into account any modifications made to the engine, cam choice, timing etc... An older engine with high miles will probably need a higher idle speed, as will one in less than perfect tune. Best thing to do is to lower it till the engine starts running rough, then increase it until the engine is idling smoothly and leave it at that.

When driving in inclement weather the tread choice is the most critical part of running wider than stock tires. I've raced in the rain with 215 and 225/60's without too much trouble and at one Driver's School it snowed. Never went off the track in the snow... A tire designed correctly will not even notice water no matter how wide it is. Look at an F1 rain tire as an example.

They should fit with no problems, but I'm wondering why you say the earlier ones won't as they ought to as well.

Check with Zedd Findings or MSA, MSA has them in their catalog but they evidently have supply problems. I know of no others that offer new tanks. If yours is not rusted to badly on the outside or dented, perhaps you could try restoring it by re-sealing the interior of the tank either with a kit from POR-15 or Eastwoods. Or try www.gastankrenu.com

But they might look right at home on a Z31....

The emissions laws got more stringent in 73, but all the Z's had smog pumps and some type of emission control on them.

Being a "shadetree" mechanic at best, I didn't break it down into grams like Phred did. But thinking about it, I'd say this is quite amazing to see an engine with 70's or 80's technology coming out this closely. Today's engine are built on an assembly line as well, but because of the compression ratios used, and the temps today's engine operate at for emissions controls etc. the tolerances they are built to would be hard to beat. With today's CNC machines and such making the basic assemblies, they are probably even closer than this. But that's what makes this one stand out. They didn't use CNC machinery like they do now to make their basic assemblies like pistons, pins, rods, etc. They were probably still using just an investment cast part. Good job Nissan....

The Gotti's are 14's? Hmm, don't see too many in 14, the only ones I have seen were all 15's. FWIW, you can find 205/50 to 225/5014's fairly easily and they will be a good fit on a 7 inch wheel. Best of all, the prices are fairly reasonable at under 125 a tire, but they will more than likely be a soft "race type" compound. Harder to find a more "street friendly" compound in the sizes you might want, unless you go to a 60 or 55 series tire.:cross-eye

I wouldn't if it's just going to be a street engine. Unless you just want to play around with a die grinder....:cross-eye Truthfully, that probably is pretty good for a mass produced engine and parts. That little weight difference over 6 is pretty darn close if you asked me.

It can be done while the glass is in, it is just a matter of taking your time and being very careful if the weatherstripping is not brand new. If it is even just a bit dry-rotted you do run the risk of it cracking even more and/or having small pieces of the lip that holds the trim break off. You can use a plastic bondo spreader to loosen the rubber from the trim and hold it so you can slide the trim underneath. Work very slowly and don't try to pull the trim too hard as it is very flimsy and it will kink quickly and permanently. It can be done either way, but if you aren't replacing the weatherstripping with new, you will probably end up damaging the weatherstripping more by trying to remove it and then re-install it. Sometimes it is best to have an extra set of hands while doing this, so if you can get a helper, it will be much easier while trying to re-install the trim. It gets kinda tough to try to hold both sides of the rubber out of the way while trying to set the trim.

Best bet for a diagram to show how the wiring harness is run through the dash is a Factory Service Manual. If you don't have one, you can get one from Andy Russell, at z@datsundude.com or (480) 343-2962 There are expensive now, but it will be the best 75 dollars you can spend. You'll get more out of the FSM than you can all the rest of the so-called service manuals combined. Not only as far as wiring diagrams but anything you need to do to the car, it's probably covered in there.

Cool pics. Bet the guy with the red Mustang gets a lot of ribbing for his last name.:devious:

In a stock engine, high test is a waste of money. In a high performance engine designed for high test, it's a necessity to keep the engine running properly. You don't gain anything by running high octane in an engine that is not built to use the higher octane to its fullest potential. I usually used mid grade as some suppliers "regular" is a mix of whatever they can buy from the tank farm for the cheapest price.

I just got done reading some of the feedback. What I want to know is why Ebay hasn't shut him down yet?

Horse-hockey! I think the 3.99 would go a lot further if you used it to buy a bottle of octane booster for the crappy gas we get nowdays. This fits right into the same category as the "atmospheric supercharging" farce! :stupid: