2ManyZs

Must have bought a barrel of racing gas at probably 3-6 dollars a gallon to mix with high test........or maybe he has access to some "extra" barrels of avgas 4.37 r&p's were available for years from Nissan Motorsports, might still be some out there, but anything lower than 4:11 seems to be getting hard to find. They also has 4.62, 4.87 and a 5.14..........The Nissan 4x4 pickups had a 4.37 from the factory, and LSD's were only another 700+ if you wanted one bad enough.....

The worst part of running straight antifreeze is that the corrosion inhibitors in the antifreeze are actually activated by the water. So, if it were run with straight antifreeze, the aluminum in the engine is going to be in pretty sad shape.... Hopefully that was a misprint.....

For all of you with a speed fetish...... http://listings.ebaymotors.com/aw/plistings/list/category6737/index.html

Could be a long list of things to be truthful. U-joints, driveshaft, rear diff, diff mounts, mustache bar bushings, wheel bearings, tire, transmission mount, motor mount, ....... You will have to go with the obvious things like tires out of balance and go down the list of things it could be.

Congratulations go to Katsuhiko ("kats") for having our first Ride of the Month of 2003. Not only is he one of our first active members from Japan, he also owns a car we all wish could be sitting in our driveway. The car looks almost as if it had just rolled off the dealers showroom floor, but it is an oddity in Japan as it is a US spec car. I think we all can appreciate how rare and special this car must be in Japan, and that he has chosen to become a member of our club. Congratulations and we hope you continue to join in our discussions.

Maybe if I could drive my 71, I could "rope" a steady significant other that I could then not allow to drive my "baby"....

You will get the best gains on a non-stock engine with any kind of triple carbs. You would only need to upgrade to a better ignition and a slightly hotter cam and a good free flowing exhaust to get the most out of the carbs. You will get some improvement on a totally stock engine, but you won't be getting your monies worth out of your investment in the carbs. As for where to get what you need in your area, I'd have to leave that to someone else, perhaps Caen Fred might have some ideas as to suppliers.

What about the L-20A? I was just comparing the pic of the L-20A in my 71 service manual and it does look similar..... What did the L-24 with the single downdraft come in?

As long as you have good parts on a donor car, you are in good shape. It's getting hard to find good inner fenders on donor cars. As long as you have a donor car, and the firewall isn't tweaked at all, you've got a fairly straightforward fix. Not an easy one, but not as bad as it could be. I've got an old ITS 240 in the garage that was run into a dirt embankment at 75+ and the whole left side is gone all the way to the firewall with a good portion of the firewall pushed back.... It's probably going to be parted out.

The white or beige interior was available only with the 110 red and 115 blue exterior color in 72-73. Couple things about this car that don't add up. Why would anyone put 280 springs on a 240? Car is sitting way to high and probably wears tires like crazy with the positive camber it's going to have..... Optional pusher fan from Nissan? Oil drip pan? Still has the original flat tops, so that isn't as good as round tops but....... The biggest thing that would scare me is why in the hell would anyone run straight antifreeze? It says it has never had water in the engine? I'd hate to see the insides of that engine might look like. Other than the springs, looks like a fairly decent car though...

Motorsport Auto has the hardware kits. New pins, retainers and shims, part number 24-5301 and it's 17.55 for both sides....

Be sure to check the upper rail (or arch)on the outside of the inner fender. If the core support is Ok and the arch one the outside are OK you might get lucky and only need a new frame rail and a cheap pulling on a frame machine to straighten it. Be sure to check the T/C rod pocket and the core support on the passengers side to see if has pulled any on the passengers side. Frame rails are easy to replace, the core support and the outer arch are the killers.....

Guess someone in their shop left the nozzle open on the nitrous too long huh? Guess they really don't know much about Z cars after all.......

You don't like your avatar beandip? Or are you going to do a little "dental" work on him?

Andy Russell has the factory service manuals for 72 bucks. He may have the rubber end pieces for the bumpers as well. I know MSA used to have them but they won't be cheap, and looking at their catalog the one side is available while the right side is of limited availability. You can contact Andy Russell at z@datsundude.com or call him at (480) 343-2962 Shannon, you might try www.zcarsofarizona.com for a used rear bumper or www.zspecialties.com New ones were in the $575 dollar range for new ones last time I looked. You might try Andy as well, he may know of another source for used parts.

I said it is in sad shape because it is in pieces scattered all over the driveway. If it were in one piece so someone could tell exactly what is there and what is needed to finish the car, then it would be a lot more interesting. The terms "survivor" in the collector car hobby is usually used to describe a car that is all original, with fairly low mileage, original paint, and may have been stored in a barn under a cover for years. The proverbial "little old lady that drove it only on Sunday" kind of car. This car definately doesn't fit that bill....

FWIW, I've always gotten things like starters, alternators, master cylinders from the local Advance store. They usually have them in stock and they take the old ones back as cores. They may be rebuilt buy the same people that MSA and VB get them from, and they are usually a bit cheaper. These were used on more than one car model in most cases, so they are usually in stock at most stores.

I counted 35 cars registered on zhome with lower vin numbers. Sadly this might be sold to someone who thinks they are buying something really special when in fact, it is merely a low vin number car in somewhat sad shape. It is number 402 of the HLS cars, true, but then you have to consider all the RHD variants, so someone is going to think this truly is the 402nd of ALL the Z's. Being a 69 build date does make it interesting, but not to the extent he makes it out to be.

Just happened to think, is the tach working when you crank it over? If not, then there may be the problem. If I remember right, there are two wires off the same terminal as the tach signal wire and one of them is for the injectors.

If the ignition module were toast, you wouldn't be getting spark at the plugs. You have spark at the plugs, and the injectors are firing and it still won't start? Something doesn't sound right. Are you sure the injectors are firing? While you are cranking it over, take a long screwdriver and put it on the metal hold down of one of the injectors and see if it is clicking. If the injector is silent, it isn't putting fuel into the cylinder and therefore no start. One of the wires may be wrong off the coil or the terminal strip. I had a problem like this hooking up the MSD in the 75, had fire to everything except the injectors, come to find out I needed a tach adapter to signal the MSD to fire the injectors. Double check all the wiring, one is either not hooked up where it should be, or it is not making contact for whatever reason.....

P90 head came out in 81-82. The P-90A was an 83 head. Both were used on the turbo cars. Don't think there is a difference in the head gaskets, so ask for a 81-83 turbo and you should get one that is the right one.

I had a chuckle when I saw that as well. Looks like a survivor alright, been on life support for years the away it looks...:tapemouth Good car if you want to spend a year or two just rounding up all the parts it is going to need, that is, if there is no other hidden surprises underneath...:cross-eye Must not be a true enthusiast or he'd know how to look for the register on zhome........:stupid:

1. Fill it to the bottom of the neck when you first fill it. Run the engine until it reaches normal op temp and then check to see if the level is the same. You'll get a few air pockets when you drain and re-fill, so after a short drive around the block, check and re-fill it to just below the neck. 2. Sounds like one of the cables may not be operating the way it should, either the clamp is off where it connects the cable housing to the vent control panel or on the heater itself. When you move the lever, make sure the cable is not moving without closing and opening the valves. 3. The idle screws are the upright ones on the through shaft of the carb linkage. Until you get your return spring problem fixed, you might be better to leave them alone for now. 4. It is either sticking or the springs need to be replaced. Look to see if there are two springs connecting the linkage to the heat shield over the exhaust manifold. 5. Check thoroughly for leaks, then a flush of the system would be the minimum. If after flushing the brakes system, they aren't up to par, replace the master cylinder and re-build or replace the rear wheel cylinders/calipers. Too many years of sitting will draw a lof of moisture into the fluid as the caps on the master do not seal that well. 6. Clean and check all the fuse clips on the fuse panel and clean/or replace any wiring under the hood that doesn't look good. You'll save a lof of grief later if you do it now. 7. Don't mess with the carbs until you do all the other little things first. A tune-up and any preventive maintenance will usually do the trick, if it doesn't, then go to the carbs. 8. They are as dependable as long your preventive maintenance is done and you don't leave things tha tneed to be attended to undone. You have to remember how old these cars are, they aren't new. Even a new car will spend time in the shop getting small items attended too, and these cars are at least simple enough for most anyone to tune up. Try doing that with some of todays "high-tech" cars... :cross-eye

If you are talking about the nut that holds the strut cartridge in, you're gonna have a hard time getting a socket on it over the shaft of the strut cartridge......unless the cartridge is so bad it will compress and stay compressed that is...... I have always used slip joint's and a pipe wrench for the stubborn ones. Try a "heat wrench" and then the pipe wrench. Even a small propane "heat wrench" should do the trick...:cross-eye Or put the nut in a bench vise and using the spindle, turn the strut housing...

There should be two springs on the throttle linkage. They connect to the throttle arm (just below the screws you should see a tab with a hole in it) on the backside of the throttle shaft that runs between the carbs and both then connect to the small tabs on the exhaust manifold heat shield. If you have no springs at all, the throttle would not have any way of returning. They are a lightweight spring approx. 2-3 inches long.