2ManyZs

And don't bother going to the willwood.com address, all it says is willwood.com is for sale.???

Stock proportioning valve put somewhere in the neighborhood of 75-85% of the braking force to the front brakes so that the rear don't lock and the driver loses control. The main reason for using an adjustable proportioning valve is the be able to adjust the brake system so that the rears do more of the braking, but not the point of locking up. This will keep the fronts from overheating in competition as they will not be doing the majority of the braking. You adjust the proportioning valve while using the brakes, up to the point the rears do lock up, and then back it off slowly until the rears no longer lock up during braking. The valve itself only restricts the line pressure to the rear brakes by limiting the volume of fluid. It does nothing to limit the pressure in the lines per se, as that is limited by the pressure being exerted on the master cylinder and that is what determines the amount of fluid and pressure in the lines.

It's possible that is why the noise is getting into the car as loud as it is. Have you pulled the diff cover and inspected the ring gear? It could be two-fold, the ring and pinion are worn or you might have a bearing going bad in the rear, and the suspension mounts and the mustache bar being so close that it could be transferring the noise and amplifying it. I'd check the diff just to be sure if everything else is in as good a shape as you describe, it is one of the last possible places to look. Good time to change the diff fluid if that hasn't been done in a while, and check the old stuff for metal shavings carefully before you re-fill it.

Have you tried taking the bell shaped cover off the bottom on the antenna to see if the mast cable is off the crank? It could be it has wound itself around the pulley shaft and/or is twisted around somehow that it is not in the groove the way it should be. It might be why the motor still is running when the antenna is already down, I'm not sure about how the stop is set up as it's been years since I took one apart...

Most of them have ceased production and sold their molds, Arizona Z car, and Reaction Research had a good selection, but they have sold all the molds.... There is a set of molds on Ebay for sale right now so you could make your own? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33644&item=1876596021&rd=1 Try www.piner.com/japco He's one of the few that still has some parts in production as he is racing a 240 in EP and possibly needs a good supply. Although they don't list them on the site, I believe he is going to be back in the Z parts again soon.

I went through the first 6 pages and didn't see a single car.... :devious:

Never been much of a Ford fan myself, but always have like the early Mustangs (pre-71) the best of them all. My first car was a 73 Cuda, so I've always been a bit partial to Mopars.....wish I had never sold that car. You've got a good looking Mustang, and thankfully it is not an automatic! BTW, those Torqu-Thrust D's look especially good on the early muscle cars of all makes.Too bad they don't make one in a 4 bolt pattern that would fit a Z, I think they would look as good as Watanabe's or the Panasports.

Not unless it is contaminated, the synthetic should actually flow better than regular oil in that the viscosity should stay more consistant over a wider temperature range than petroleum based oils. The only thing that might make it clog up an oil pump is that it might have more detergents in it, and then releases more built up crud from the use of "bargain-basement" petroleum based oils and allows them to circulate through the engine, although it would probably end up clogging the filter first, if you are lucky that is.... That's why we usually advise not changing over to synthetics on older engines. It is usually best to stick with one type of oil, unless you do a complete rebuild and start with a clean engine when you change.

No Carl, you're not the only "old fart" on here....I remember the good old days of IMSA and the cars that ran back then... 934's, 935's, 3.0 CSL BMW's..... This car reminds me of the IMSA body kit that used to be sold, except for the grill opening that makes me think of the fish you buy to clean the bottom of the aquarium..... Only thing I like on the outside of the car is the wheels, at least they could be put on a much better looking car....

At least that one is a ZX, not hard to make one of those unnatractive to a purist...

If they are the same size as the fittings in the stock manifolds, if I remember right they should be either 1/4 or 3/8 NPT pipe thread....

MSA should have most if not all the OE shift knobs. They have custom shift knobs with the Datsun logo, either in Naugahide, polished walnut or onyx. Page 29 of their new catalog if you have one, they are only 13.95 each..... That horn button is only good on MOMO or other aftermarket steering wheels with the appropriate sized center....

Only thing I saw that was somewhat interesting is the overhead speaker console. Other than that, it looks like someone didn't use a respirator when playing with all that fiberglass. The front end is the ugliest thing I've ever seen put on a Z.:sick: It's even uglier than the 350Z's front end.........:devious:

or he needs to water down that "home-brew" just a tad.....

Proves that a "fool and his money are soon parted" doesn't it? Or in this case I guess it would be two fools, the one that built it and the one that bought it.:cross-eye

Talk about "overcooked rice"!:sick: :tapemouth :sick:

That's the best thing about this car, it isn't ORANGE!:cross-eye :cross-eye :tapemouth

You got that right! Yeesh.....:tapemouth :cross-eye

$14,900 and still has 6 days and 17 hours left to go. Might just make it to 20K, just wish I could be in on the bidding......:disappoin Watch the bidding war really get into high gear the last 8 hours of the auction if no one takes the Buy it Now....:devious:

Take a look at this thread, one of our members in San Antonio can build one for you, or give you the plans for a rotisserie. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=24846#post24846 Might want to use one that's built slightly stronger than one for an early Z as the chassis of a ZX is a bit heavier.

All the major rental companies, Hetz, Penske, U-Haul etc all rent one ton vans. You could then rent a trailer from them and be on your way. Take an air matress with you and you can save a few motel bills as well....

It's gonna be kinda tough to find a Z in the Midwest for 3K that doesn't need a lot of rust repairs. Not impossible, but it will take a lot of searching to come up with one that is repairable from a rust standpoint. 2K is going to get you a car that is going to cost much more than another thousand to fix. I'd say, take your time looking and save up a bit more money. You could always find a car in either the southwest or west coast and have it shipped to you. The car will be in a lot better shape and will be more worthy of the time and money it takes to bring it back into decent driveable shape. You could possibly find a west coast car for 3K or less that will require very little major body work and have it shipped to you for under 1K and have a decent car that is worth the time and effort. Sorry to bust our bubble, but even here in Virginia it is getting hard to find a Z that does not have significant rust problems.

4 speeds were standard in all the US Z's up to 78, the 5 speed in 77-78 was an option. There is only one small difference in the 280 transmission you have and the one that was standard in your 71, and that is the shifter. The early A model that came in cars up to 71 were equipped with a shifter that was not part of the transmission case and it was not as good as the later B model shifter. IMHO opinion, leave it the way it is, the B model is a better shifting transmission. Unless you are into a 100 point concourse restoration, no one will ever care.

I think they do, but Summit's catalog doesn't list the inlet diameters, nor do they list a part number for some odd reason. They have Pacesetter Monza Tips with the resonators, single or dual outlet. Single is priced from 23.99, double from 29.99. You could call their customer service line and ask them, 1-800-517-1035 and I think that is 24/7 too...

Or you might try www.summitracing.com