2ManyZs

With a car with that early a production date, I would go original. It will be worth a lot more later if you keep it close to stock. Look at Classic Datsun Motorsports for interior plastic, and Too Intense Restorations has some of the rest of the needed pieces. It will be worth it in the long run given how early the car is in the production run......Some people have all the luck...

Try re-torquing the head again. Hopefully the gasket will be OK, it may be the head was not torqued exactly when it was installed. It is always advisable to re-torque the head after a couple heat cycles when an engine is first put together. Good luck. If it still leaks a new gasket will be the next thing to do and make sure the head is straight and torqued correctly.

I agree with the other posts, it sounds like it might be something fairly simple in the ignition or FI that is causing the problem. I would try to find a GOOD mechanic to diagnose the problem for sure before you decide to sell it. It might only be a 100 dollar fix, or it might be more. Decide whether to keep the car only after you find out what is causing the problem. Just as a caveat, I bought my first 240 back in the early 80's, the girl who owned it had trouble with it and traded it in. After I bought it and talked to a couple mechanics it turned out it was just the water control valve on the intake that was causing the problem. I blocked off the line with a blind rivet I got at work and it ran great for years after words. It cost me nothing but a little time to figure out the problem. I met the girl not long after I bought the car and fixed it, and believe me she was PO'd that it was something that simple! She wanted to buy the car back on the spot, but since I had waited to find one for so long, I didn't sell, and kept the car for about 7 years. Finding out what is the problem will give you a good idea of whether or not it is time to sell..... you might regret it later if it turns out to be something simple.

I agree with Carl, before you put it back together be sure to check to see if they gave you the right springs. It almost sounds like they may have given you springs for a 240 which would be shorter than 280 springs to begin with, as the stock springs are shorter on a 240 than a 280. I have seen some springs that had perhaps an inch of free play when assembled with no load on the spring, any more than that just doesn't sound right.

Almost 150 years ago, President Lincoln found it necessary to hire private investigator Alan Pinkerton for protection. That was the beginning of the Secret Service. Since that time, the federal police authority has grown to a large number of multi-letter agencies: The FBI, CIA, INS, IRS, DEA, BATF, etc. Now we have the "Federal Air Transportation Airport Security Service." Can't you see them now, these highly trained men and women in their black outfits with their initials in large white letters across their backs: "FATASS" I feel safer already........

OK, that clear it up a little but you won't like my response.....:disappoin It sounds like the rear may be the culprit. It may be the ring and pinion or the bearings. On decelleration you are hearing a grinding because the ring and pinion clearance is changing and possibly the pinion gear is gouging the ring gear. Either that or it is one of the side bearings that is shot or a spider gear. It could also be the front bearing also, and the pinion shaft is moving back and forth and causing the problems with the ring gear. Either way, the best thing to do now would be to pull the diff cover and see if there are any deep gouges on the ring gear, or if the spider gears look to be damaged. Any way you look at it, pulling the cover is going to tell the whole story. If you see any gauling on the gears, it still could be a something fairly simple like bearing, but it will depend on what you find on the gears. But then again, it could still be something as simple as a u-joint or a loose flange. Check you u-joints and seals for leaks, a leak might pint you in the direction of your problem. Pop the cover and check the u-joints and let's here the rest of the story....

Your best bet for getting an informed answer to that question would be over on www.hybridz.org Not sure if there are too many members here that have tried nitrous...yet that is.

Does it only make the noise while under braking? Could it be the rear shoes? I'm wondering if they are getting low enough, and with some heat checking on the drum that it could be shuddering, and causing the noise to be amplified a bit.... Or is it while shifting? Which would lead me to suspect the throwout bearing and/or pressure plate. As far as the heat of the rear diff, they do get very hot if used hard. BTW, the more wear on the bearing and ring and pinion there is, the more heat that will build up. Have you tried a different gear lube? If you can, try some of the Redline synthetic lube in the rear and see if that helps. Hard to tell if there is a big difference without a temp sensor on the rear, but every little bit will help.

Well, I doubt if it is a u-joint problem if it affects the handling like you describe. I would say it is a bushing in the suspension, or something is loose in the suspension. I would have it checked out ASAP. Could be a control arm mount is broken or the bushing is so bad that the control arm is moving and causing the loss of control. It could the quite a few things that could be causing the problem, and none of them would be safe to drive the car. It could be the mounting bolts on the strut are loose or missing. Not sure what the PO may have done with the suspension, but it sounds like you need to have it checked before it causes and accident. I would have it checked out immediately, just to be on the safe side...

Of all the members I would have expected you to be one of the last to get rid of your Z. After all you went through to get it, what made you decide to get rid of it so soon. Or is the yellow "blinding" you? :cross-eye

I'll second that post, do I hear a third?

This farmer has about 200 hens, but no rooster and he wants chicks. So, he goes down the road to the next farmer and asks if he has a rooster he wants to sell. The other farmer says, "Yeah, I've got this rooster named Chuck. He'll service every hen you got no problem." Well, Chuck the rooster costs a lot of money, but the farmer decides he'd be worth it. So he buys Chuck. The farmer takes Chuck home and sets him down in the barnyard, first giving the rooster a pep talk. "Chuck, I want you to pace yourself now. You've got a lot of hens here to service, and you cost me a lot of money. Consequently, I'll need you to do a good job. So take your time, and have some fun," the farmer says with a chuckle. Chuck seems to understand, so the farmer pointed him towards the hen house and Chuck took off like a shot. Wham! Chuck nails every hen in the hen house-three of four times, and the farmer is totally shocked. After that, the farmer hears a commotion in the duck pen. Sure enough, Chuck is in there.... Later the farmer sees Chuck after a flock of geese, down by the lake. Once again-Wham!- He gets all the geese. By sunset he sees Chuck out in the field chasing quail and pheasants. The farmer is distraught- worried that his expensive rooster won't even last 24 hours. Sure enough, the farmer goes to bed and wakes up the next day to find Chuck dead as a door knob- stone cold in the middle of the barnyard. Buzzards are circling overhead. The farmer, saddened by the loss of such a colorful and expensive creature, shakes his head and says, "Oh Chuck, I told you to pace yourself. I tried to get you to slow down, now look what you done to yourself." Chuck opens one eye, nods to the buzzards circling in the sky, and says, "Shhhh, they're getting closer"

The way that is written I would say you only need a smog pump to get the 72 to pass. All Z's had a smog pump, so there is no getting around that:ermm:

I don't have the answer, but you should be able to get it from most any good steel supplier. Take a walk thru the yellow pages and more than likely you will find it fairly easily. It should be easier to find where you live, than out here in the "boonies".:cross-eye

Since you usually use either rivets or sheet metal screw to mount the flares while the epoxy is curing, you can either remove them all or leave a couple in to prevent any cracks in the epoxy and body filler you might use to blend away the lines where the flare meets the body. I'd be tempted to leave a couple to be sure....

Since I'm not sure of your smog laws (if any) in Texas, here's the only thing I can think of that they may be referring to. You have an L-28 from a later 280, and the only canister I can think of would be the charcoal canister. It mounted on the passengers side near radiator support. If you have to abide by the year of the engine, you may have to dig one up out of the junkyard or something.....

Check this thread and see if you are having the same problem. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=4520

Oops, sorry for the confusion, sometimes my fingers type faster than my brain can keep up with. Should have proof read my post a little better......:stupid:

She likes to show off for the camera too.... Nuttin' wrong with showing off your dogs, two things I would never get rid of, my 71 and my dog....

Must be something about dogs, they way they get into some of the oddest positions when they sleep. Hope your's don't snore as loud as mine does........

Zlish, you have my sympathies as well as an "Atta-Boy". You now have joined the ranks of those who are truly addicted.......:devious:

First thing to check would be the fusible link and your connections at the starter and battery. The fusible link is the 10 gauge wire that connects to the positive terminal of the batter and goes to the starter solenoid. Check the connections at the solenoid and the plastic connector in the line itself. Let us know if that doesn't help.....

Don't see why you couldn't put a 20-24 gallon cell in a street car if you wanted. I know of some Z's that raced in enduro's that used 20 gallon or so, they normally mounted them flush with the floor and had to fabricate a bulkhead due to the cars being so low. With a street car you possibly could have enough ground clearance to run one that big, might depend on the cell manufacturer as they aren't all the same dimensions..... Don't have any digital pics of the 280 I sold, but perhaps I can take a couple of the wrecked 240 in the shop, if I can get enough "stuff" out of the way.

If it is "Erson" I have, not sure if they are still in business though.Think they might have gotten bought out by one of the conglomerates, like Holley or Edelbrock. It wasn't too long ago if they have been bought out. Erson was big back in the 60's and 70's, mostly having to do with drag racing, and high performance during the factory muscle cars era....Oops, there I go showing my age again huh? :stupid: :cross-eye

If you put a good Centerforce clutch in your car and do a 6K rpm and dump the clutch, you are going to have more than just clutch problems......if you plan on doing this you are better off with a stock clutch that will slip or your transmission, u-joints, ring and pinion, half-shafts, stub axles will be the next pieces on your replacement list. If you want to do burnouts like that, you are better of getting a Mustang or Camaro with a driveline that might hold up to that kind of abuse......