2ManyZs

I have another idea Mike, this one will require no changes to programming or any type of long drawn out process. How about if you send a PM to a member of your choosing and ask them to pick one? That will save a lot of time and hassles with programming the system, and will get an ecclectic mix of cars since everyones taste is different. You just look around and see who is on the site at any particular time and ask them to pick one of their favorites and send it to you in an E-card which is already set up. Voting would just cause more problems, as you may run into problems with a majority agreeing on one car in particular. Too many nice cars are in the gallery now. A large number of members choosing from that many cars is going to be confusing to say the least. Whacha think?:cross-eye

I would try Bonzai Motorworks. I beleive they did a lot of the stickers and labels for the Z store cars. www.zzxdatsun.com

I don't have one available right now. I just thought you should tell where exactly you are to let others know. We have members on the site from all over the world now. Lot's of different places North Brunswick could be.

MSA should have the header gasket for about 8-9 dollars, ask for the preformance header gasket, part number 15-2525for 70-74 with carbs arnd square ports, 15-2526 for 75-76 with square ports and FI. It will depend on lot on how much the flange is warped (if it is at all), lay a straight edge across it and see if there are any gaps, if there are gaps, if they are say 1/16th of an inch or less, you should be able to re-use the header with no problem. As long as you use a good gasket and torque it correctly. Any more than that and you might have to either have it straightened or buy a new header. :disappoin

Cars are easier to buy "parts" for. And they don't complain if you are seen in another car. Beware, the car can actually cost you more in the long run. :stupid:

Almost impossible to identify a particular brand of header. Looks like at one time they were chrome plated, but that has been a while ago judging by the rust.

Looks a lot better than a lot of cars. Best thing to do is to start cleaning the area and find out how far the rust may have spread. If it hasn't spread more than an inch or so in either direction, it looks like a fairly easy patch job. Be sure to check the floor/firewall area closely around the spot. Hopefully it hasn't spread too far.

If the car has been sitting for a long period of time, the first thing you should do is to change the oil and filter. Don't bother with synthetic, it is a waste of money with an engine of unknown mechanical condition. Just buy a good brand name oil and filter. 10w/30 or 40 would be a good start as far as what weight to use. The second thing you should do is to have someone do a compression test on the engine. A leakdown test will tell you more about the overall condition of the engine than any other test you can do. It may have worn rings, or bad valve seals, or a combintaion of a few other things. This may be part of the oily condition on the plugs. Do this first before you bother buying new plugs. You need to find out exactly what compression you have, and how well the rings are sealing and what shape the valvetrain is in before you worry about whether you will need to do any major work to the engine.

The only way to do this would be to find someone with a factory service manual for both years and trace out the wiring and hook them up by the wiring diagram. Just because they are the same color code does not necessarily mean they are the same. Hopefully there will be someone with the manuals you need here, might take a while to get the right answer.

What about Solo 2? Two car running on mirror image courses of cones against the clock.

Only thing I see wrong with that car is the wheels. Too big. Notice the rear wheel rim extends past the sidewall of the tire? He should have opted for a little narrower rim, then he could have used the right size tire and would not have had to worry about it rubbing his fender.:tapemouth I think the car would have looked better with a smaller diameter wheel, the relationship between the tire, wheel and fender opening just isn't quite right. One size smaller diameter and you wouldn't have the wheel well filled with a wheel that just looks too big for the car. Just my opinion. :cross-eye

If you really want a grill piece in the bottom, why not look for a 280 grill? They are a two piece grill with one piece that went above the bumper and one that went below it. You might be able to use the lower piece and mount it in there (probably have to make up some mounts) to make it look stock. Just another idea:ermm:

I think I replied to this before, but just in case. Did you use the tachometer from the donor car? There is a resistor or something like that in the back of the FI cars tach that affects the idle speed. If you have the original tach in there it will not have that, and this may be part of the problem. If not there, it may be in the potentiometer on the side of the air flow meter. A Factory service manual is almost mandatory when working on FI, it will explain all the test procedures and how to test all the sensors without taking a lot of them off the car. The Chiltons manuals and others are nowhere near as good as a Factory manual. If you can find one, get one, you will be glad you did.

The best place to start any type of racing is probably Solo, you will learn more about car set-up and car control then you will if you try to spend a pile of money and go road racing. Once you have seen how much it costs to just run a competitive Solo car, you might decide Solo is where you want to stay. Road racing is fun, but it is a lot of hard work, and getting more and more expensive to run. Here in my region, it costs 300 bucks to run a Drivers School, and you have to run two schools before you qualify for a license. 600 bucks will buy you a lot of seat time at Solo events. Get the rule books, read them, and then decide which way you want to go. Join the SCCA and get a crew license, attend a few races helping out in a specialty, like flagging, or help a racer on his pit crew. I crewed for a friend of mine for two years before I started building my first car. Talk to people and find out everything you can before you start buying anything. That is the best advice I can give.

Would help if you tell us where North Brunswick is, windshield would be hard to ship.

Look through the IT rule book. Brakes must be stock, pad materials are free. Engine is going to be nearly stock, balancing and blueprinting is allowed, no overbore more than .040, stock induction, can't trade FI for carbs. The suspension is really the only thing on the car that you can do a lot of modifications. Coil-overs, camber plates, adjustable shocks (no remote reservoirs anymore), any sway bar, any spring length or rate, any bushing material. The only thing that is not allowed is changing mounting points of control arms etc. Before you do anything, read the IT rules carefully, so you don't spend money on something you can't use. Make a "wish list" of parts and start to work. There is also a web-site just for IT if you haven't been there yet. www.improvedtouring.com Another way is to go to the track and look up John Legg, Wayne Burstein, Pat Sharkitt, Jeff Lucas, Jim Cummings, and get all your questions answered. I may be at the last MARRS race if work lets me have the weekend off. Look for me with a ClassicZcars.com hat on.

I quit back in 95 after my father passed away and didn't get back to the track to keep up my license that year. I just didn't have the ambition after that, a good friend of mine passed away about a year later and I bought his old 240 that he had crashed up there at Summit from his widow. I just haven't gotten around to doing anything with it, been thinking about putting it back together for EP, but have too many other projects right now. I think the 280 you may be referring to is driven by Jim Cummings, a black car that looks to have been painted with a brush? I raced with that car back years ago before he bought it. The PO owner and I had some great races together. I recently sold my old 280, in fact it may be soon at a drivers school at Summit. Haven't heard whether the guy has it ready for the track or not. You can see some pics of it in my photo gallery. If you have questions, feel free to ask and I'll try to help in any way I can. I'm here most of the time.

Well, the first thing I would do is to check the header flange to see if it is warped. Take the header off and use a straight edge across the flange to see if it is warped. Second, look to see if there is any welding slag around the port or ports that are leaking. If there is, take a wide flat file and try to file the port flat. Third, use a good quality gasket, I have had good luck with the gaskets that are covered with foil, not the paper gaskets. Third, when you have it back on the car, see where the leak has been developing, and check the mounting bolt closest to it. If it is one of the bolts that has the large washer under it to clamp down on the intake and exhaust, see if it is at an angle. Sometimes the flanges are not even, resulting in a loose flange. If it is not tightening evenly on both the intake and exhaust you will develop a leak for sure, you could try shimming it with a flat washer cut in half it the flanges are uneven. Make sure all the mounting bolts are tightened evenly, if possible try to torque them all to about 10ft/lbs.

I should explain my first part of my reply. If you ask any racer that has started form scratch with a race car, they will more than likely tell you it is always better and cheaper to buy a car that has already been built and improve on it from there. I ended up spending more on my 280 than what it would have cost me to buy a 240 that was already built and ready to race. And I was a mid-pack car at best. Only a couple times did I ever break into the top ten in a race. :disappoin That was one of the main reason I asked if you really wanted to do this. A lot of the competitive cars may sound like they are really expensive to buy, but when you really sit down and plan out a racing budget you will see that what you plan to do may cost nearly as much or possibly even more when all is said and done.

First question is this, are you sure you want to do this? The 280 is not going to be nearly as competitive as the Rx-7 (you have no idea how much it pains me to say that) so at best you will end up behind most of the RX-7's and the BMW's. Even the 240's are being pushed back in the pack slowly but surely. If you really want to do it, then the best suspension kit would be the Ground Control system. I raced a 75 at Summit point in the past and had 325lb springs in front, 300 in the rear. And spring for the adjustable sway bars if you can afford them, you will want as much adjustability as possible if you plan on running other tracks, or just to maximize the handling due to the weather. Brakes? Well, you can't do much except re-build everything you have to make sure it is in top notch shape, and use plenty of ducting to the front brakes to cool them. Don't bother with the NISMO rear shoes, they don't last. Try Porterfield or you could do like I did and use Wearevers from Napa, they lasted a lot longer and felt just as good. Front pads now are mostly by either Porterfield or Carbotech. If you can afford it, use a Quaiffe diff or at the very least a LSD, you will have a hard time getting it to turn at Summit with a locked rear(been there, done that) and depending on whether you run a 4 speed or a 5speed you are going to want at least a 3.90 rear gear. If you have a 5 speed try a 4.11, 4:37 would be my choice with a 5 speed. Engine mods are limited by the rules, so be sure to read the rule book carefully before you do anything. Tires are as much a matter of preference now as they are a matter of budget, I haven't raced since 95 so they have come a long way since then, best to go see what everyone else is running and get their opinions and feedback on what tires to run. Whatever you do, don't scimp on safety equipment, this is the most important part of any racing venture!

Well, I did say if it was I'd never seen it before. Since I was only 7 in 69 I guess that gives me a way out without chewing on the shoe leather, doesn't it? Hmm, you could switch back to the stock ignition with just a flip of a switch? Wouldn't it be nice if they still did it that way? Just think, it's like having a backup ignition if one fails. Kinda makes you wonder why they stopped doing it like that, except they want to sell you another complete ignition when one dies. Guess that is why they make everything so cheap now, so you'll be back to buy another one when the "new" one fails. :tapemouth

If it is some sort of ignition box, it's a type I've never seen before. I think it may have something to do with the alarm, I'm basing this on the light on the left side and the Static above it. I've never seen an ignition module have a switch on it either. Hard to read the printing on it in the pic.

I found the site from the links on SportZ magazines web-site. looked around through all the Z sites and ended up here. Been here ever since. :cross-eye

More than likely it is the rheostat, not too hard to replace, if you can get your hands in there to reach the backside of it. :tapemouth

Of course, this being a Nissan/Datsun site, shouldn't you at least take a look at a new Spec-V SE-R? Might be hard to get the keys away from her again after you tell her you just got done running an Auto-X with her new car. :cross-eye