2ManyZs

Not absolutely sure, but I think if you use the straps from the 280 tank it will work. The 280 tanks are a bit larger by about a gallon. Perhaps someone else has done this and can give you an accurate answer.

Hey, how did I end up in the middle of this???:stupid:

The mechanic may be right. If I remember correctly, a fuel pressure regulator was part of the box of parts I received from the Nissan dealer for my 73 along with an electric fuel pump. It was part of the recall on the 73's to cure the vapor lock problem they had with the flat top carbs. Other parts were the fuel line heat shield and a 7 blade fan. Try a pressure regulator, they are quite inexpensive. If that is not the problem then you can look into a carb synchro and mixture correction. Sounds like you have a mechanic that knows Z cars pretty well, you are one step up on a lot of people.

Cool, I guess we'll have to start making a list of members in the area and maybe we can have a tent for the club there. Only 100 mile drive for me. :classic:

Seems like I saw a set advertised just last week, either on Too Intense Restorations web-site or possibly Bonzai Motorworks. I look at so many different ones I guess I should start making a list of where I see things like this.:stupid:

All depends on what is wrong with the switch I guess. When my 71 sat for over period of a couple weeks without being driven, the contacts must have corroded a little from the humidity, and it took two or three tries to get the lights to come on. Once they were on they were fine and never went out. It could be just a little too much play in the switch is not allowing a good contact in there, you may have no problems as far as the contacts go, just too much play in the switch itself. After a few thousand times being switched on and off, it's got to wear more than just the contacts.

Ok guys, we can argue till we need to upgrade our computers on the subject. No one is belittling anyones car. It is a simple fact that as delivered from the factory the 240 was slightly quicker due to its weight advantage. Once you start to modify a 280 even by taking off one bumper you will be taking enough weight off to make a BIG difference in performance. I ran my 73 240 against a brand new 280ZX Turbo many years ago, only stayed with him till he hit 2nd gear and the boost kicked in, then it was all over but the crying. I raced a 75 280 in Improved Touring that would have blown away 75% of the 240's I could have come across on the street, but compared to 240's built to the same specs I was slower. One reason was the handicap of weight and the FI. The chassis of the later 240-280 is built of thicker gauge metal than the early 240's (70-71) so you will have a hard time comparing them. And you will have a hard time getting any FI cars to turn 7K rpm's like a 240 will. So, what I'm saying is you can't compare apples and oranges if one is a hybrid. Stock is stock and modified is modified. One modification and it is no longer stock. Right? The only way to find out who's car is faster is to put them head to head and see who's comes out on top. That's how the IHRA and NHRA got started and all other forms of motorsports, to find out who's car is faster.

Have you replaced the switch with a new one or a used one out of another car?? If they were used you may need to break down and get a new one. My 71 does the same thing after it has sat for a while, it's in the switch on mine. Sounds like the switch to me, but it could be something else in the wiring harness or fuse block.

One idea for mounting your compressor for the horns would be to use the mounting holes on the side of the block where the smog pump would normally reside, that is if yours is not installed. Sorry, can't seem to remember if you had one or not George. Just a thought. If you could, you might try mounting an L bracket between the two halves of the steering column cover and mounting a button on the side of the column, easy to reach, and no new holes. Just run the mounting screw of the column cover through the bracket to hold it in place.

The bumpers bars themselves were quite similar, the biggest differences were in the mounting brackets and the fact that the later ones had a shock absorber. The early cars had the bumper guards (uprights on the face) mounted farther apart than the later cars. This make a big difference in the overriders. Small differences in the rubber rub strips and the way they mount.

Thanks, but I kinda doubt they were the last set. Someone somewhere is probably sitting on a few sets just as an investment. I haven't decided if I'm going to use them or not. Guess it depends on how the 71 looks after it is painted and back together. That's the part that is going to take the most time the rate I'm going. :cross-eye

It's a fairly easy job to do, it just takes time to figure out which hoses you need to unhook to get each piece loose. I took mine apart with no problem. Unhook the wiring harnesses and don't lose the clips. Lay it off to the side. Then unhook the fuel line to the rail and start taking the injectors loose at the manifold. Be careful not to snap off any of the mounting screws that mount the ring at the bottom of the injector. Take the whole fuel rail and injectors off as one piece. Makes it a lot easier to work on if you have it on the workbench. Then it's just separating the two halves of the rail so you can replace the hoses in the middle and then replace the injectors one at a time. You might as well replace the return hose and the hose from the fuel filter while you are at it. It will take at least 3 feet of hose. Just one thing, make sure you use a hose designed for fuel injection. Some of the cheaper hoses will not hold up to the pressure and you'll have bulging hoses all over. Not good. Napa, or any of the chain store will sell it in a small package and it will be marked fuel injection hose. You may need two packages as most I remember were only 18 inches or so long. No need for an "expert" mechanic if you have the basic tools, and an afternoon to do the job without hurrying. Take your time, you will see how it has to be done once you start.

If the weathersrtipping is not cracked or show signs of dry rot, I'd leave it alone for now. I've had them come loose before on the corners, I used a little weatherstrip adhesive to keep it in place. If you are careful it won't show. It's even tougher to get the trim into a new weatherstrip. Not so bad on the corners but the long side pieces do take a little finesse to install without bending the trim. :tapemouth

If it is just the hoses, Motorsport used to have replacement hoses for the injectors. Haven't received their newest catalog yet, so you may want to check with them. If it is the injector body itself or the mounting ring under them, I would replace them all at the same time. There is also an o-ring on the injector where it mounts into the intake manifold, it may be these are bad. If 2 are gone, the rest are not far from failure. It's a bit of a pain to take the fuel rail apart (lots of clamps to take off) to replace just two, so if you are going to do two you may as well do the rest. You really should do a good job checking these out and replacing any of the hoses that are hardened, they will crack and leak with the fuel pressure in the rail and it may cause a serious fire. No sense losing your car because you didn't do a thorough job the first time it was taken apart. It's probably a two hour job for one person to replace all the hoses and injectors. Be careful not to force the injector harness plugs or lose the clips that hold them. The plugs and clips can be purchased form MSA, but if you are careful you may not need them.

Does the total price include a garage to keep them in, tools to work on them, and all the spare parts? If so, then I don't want to even think about how much I have spent in the last twenty years since I bought my first Z. :tapemouth Guess you could say I went a little overboard with my obsession.

Someone offer to help that poor man, selling a nice 260 for a 350????:stupid: :stupid: :sick: Wonder what he's going to do when he can't sell the 260 to get his 350 he can't really afford. Maybe he should have thought about that before he ordered the 350 huh?

Sorry guys, but those taillight and the clear front lenses should be in my hot little hands soon. Couldn't resist. I have wanted a set for a long time, just kept putting off buying them not knowing that someday they wouldn't be available like so many other parts. Live and learn. :tapemouth

I for one am totally against using spacers unless it's an absolute necessity. Now, a spacer that is 1/2 inch or less isn't going to affect the geometry to the point of a failure. But anything more than that is asking for trouble IMO. Yes, you are applying a lot more stress to the hub and bearings if you use a spacer, how much depends on the thickness of the spacer. The leverage being to the studs,hubs, and bearings applied is being increased as you move the wheel further form the mounting flange. Not only that, but because the tire and wheel package are so large they increase the amount of contact patch, therefore the side loading of the tire that is being transferred into the bearings and hubs. You will also increase the stress on the entire suspension as well as the bearings. Most suspensions were designed to work with a certain amount of side loadings and the bearings, hubs and such were sized according to a certain size and placement of the wheel. You may even affect the roll center of the suspension, and the bump steer when you use a wheel that will require a spacer. I'm not an engineer, but there would be a formula somewhere that would give the exact difference in forces, it's all in the leverage. If you have to use a spacer, use the the smallest one possible. Think of it this way. If your arm were the spindle, and you were to have two tires mounted to your arm, which would put less stress on your arm. One that has the centerline of the wheel at your elbow, or one where the centerline of the wheel is at your wrist?

FWIW, 905 red is an original color. His description calling it Ferrari red is not right.

If it is really your beloved 72 as you state, you really need to fix it correctly with new floor pans and frame rails before it falls apart and ends up putting you in the hospital or something even worse. I really hate to hear the word "bolted" when used in reference with a unibody repair. If it were my car it would either be fixed right or scrapped by now. Sorry, but you shouldn't make something like this public if you don't want to hear other peoples opinions, especially ones that chastise you for something as irresponsible as this. I doubt that the car is safe to drive. Period.

Beside the ones mentioned you can take a look at what Too Intense Restorations and Bonzai Motorworks has for interior restorations. Too Intense has some seat covers, shift boot and vinyl pieces along with carpet listed on Ebay right now if you are quick enough, I think the auctions go on a few more days on some of the parts.

We work our finger to the bone and the Boss is out having all the fun!! It's just not fair. You should have taken a few of us with you for "moral support" if nothing else.:devious: :tapemouth

Only thing I see wrong with the photo is that I'm not in it!!! :mad: Let's see, me, my dog, and a beautiful female, oh well, it's nice to dream huh?:cross-eye You shouldn't have too much trouble with it with a hydraulic clutch. It would be a lot stiffer if you had a mechanical linkage trying overcome the heavy springs used in the pressure plate with a puck type plate. Your leg would surely get a work out. Gotta love that color!!

Not sure if the whole booster assembly will work or not. I'm willing to bet not many people have tried it since all they have to do is use the later 15/16 master on the one they have. If the booster you have is OK then I'd save the money for now and just go with the master swap.

Could be close to 10K, but did you notice he states that he is not sure if the odometer has flipped or not? It could be 127K on it. Hmm, built the same month as mine too. Guess it's time to get back to work on mine then huh? Mine has 117K on it.