2ManyZs

I don't know what happened in other parts of the world, but here in the US the 260 and later 280's had a longer and larger diameter strut housing. You might want to measure the diameter and lenght before you purchase anything for a 260 hoping to use it in a 240 housing. The strut housing is completely different here in the States after the 74 models. I know this from previous experiments, trying a 260 spring on a 240 doesn't work. The springs themselves are longer by about an inch. Not sure the exact measurements on the differences, since I no longer have the 280 sitting here. But I do know the housing is also a larger diameter as well.

Only issue I can think of regarding the VG-30 is the fact if the timing belt breaks you have a major valve job in order. Be sure to check or replace it if the engine you use has more than 45K on it. I think they recommended replacing it every 40-50K. Other than that, sounds like you are well on your way to having a little screamer in your driveway.:classic: Light car like a 510 ought to move with over 200hp on tap. The 510 always was a bit of a sleeper. Neat cars, it's a shame there aren't many good 2 door chassis left that aren't rusted, wrecked or too nice to modify. Hmm, sounds like a Z doesn't it???

Acording to my old Haynes manual the torque specs are: 8mm--12ft-lbs 10mm--35ft-lbs

Look for the smog pump on the drivers side of the block. It will have a belt to drive it, and it is mounted below the distributor across from the alternator. One of the braided hoses on that side of the engine goes to the block from the air cleaner, to evacuate the crankcase.

Use the search function, you should find a couple posts about the correct color for the rear taillight panel. As far as the window louvre, it is most likely an aftermarket add on. Some dealers offered them as an add on in the early years. I have heard many complaints over the aluminum louvres rattling and making a lot of noise. Yours will definately need the other lock or it will drive you crazy with all the noise. You can now get them in plastic or ABS that might not be better. I have no experience them, so I'm just going by what people who have had them have said.

In an engine of unknown mechanical condition or higher mileage, using a sythetic lube is more than likely a waste of money. They are no miracle cure for any wear. They would be a good addition if you at some point rebuild the engine. You would be better off just to use a good quality motor oil and change it every 2500 miles and save your money for a good rebuild when it is necessary. As far as additives, I have used Restore in the past. It worked fairly well in a car that had 160,000 plus miles. It did lower the oil consumption slightly and the car did actually seem to perform better overall. You can get it in at most auto parts stores, it is not too expensive, and it must be added to every new oil change.

Another alternative would be to shop around a little more for 3 piece wheels with a more open design. I know Monocoque has some styles that have a more open spoke design, never had cojones enough to ask about prices on them though. The second style looks like one of their wheels come to think of it. If you go through the expense and all to get plenty of cooler air to the discs with ducting, you definately need to think about how it is going to escape from behind the wheel. Otherwise, you'll be baging your head against a wall wondering why you still overheat the brakes. And we both know how they work when you get them too hot.:stupid:

The T-5 Borg Warner that came with the Turbo's is a stout piece. The biggest downfall of it compared to the earlier Z transmissions is in the shifting action. It will never shift as smoothly as the Z transmission. It might be better with an aftermarket shifter, but it will still not be as precise or smooth as the earlier Z transmissions without modifications. The T-5 was used for years here in the states behind V-8's in Camaro's and Mustangs so it should hold up to as much power as you could build in an L-6, Turbo or otherwise.

Style 1 would be my pick. Not only because they look better IMO, but the most important reason, AIR FLOW! Get as much open space as possible, or your brake ducting will not work as well as intended. Get the cooler air in, and get the hot air out, anyway possible, and as easily as possible.

You should definately crank it over a few times by hand to make sure nothing is seized. Take all the plugs out, put some penetrating oil or Marvel Mystery oil in there overnight before you do it. Take off the coil wire before you do anything! When you have turned it over a few times by hand, if it spins fairly free and has no strange noises, get in a hit the key and spin it over with the starter. With the coil wire off it will not start. Check to make sure you have oil pressure before you hook up the coil wire. You don't want it to fire if you have no oil pressure, you will seize it or spin a bearing. If everything checks out OK, hook up the coil wire and then see if it will start.

Proper torque! Make sure the header flange is flat! No burrs, welding slag! Two of the best pieces of advice when installing a header on a Z. I've used two different kinds of gaskets without a sealant of any type with pretty good luck with both. One is the type that is foil covered, it's a paper type gasket, but it has a dimpled foil or metal covering. The best one to use is one that is foil covered with the metal seal made into the gasket. I would only use a copper sealant if I used one at all, the heat will probably be too much for anything less.