2ManyZs

I can't wait for the third installment.... I've got a good idea for it now..:devious: Three low-lifes see the car sitting on a dark street, and decide to go for a joy ride.......

Brazing wouldn't be my first choice for attaching body panels, at least not unless it's done by someone who really knows what they are doing. Brazing will only work if the base metal you are attaching together is heated with the torch, and usually it needs to be heated quite hot for the braze to hold. It's basically the same principle as soldering. On thin sheetmetal, we all know what happens when too much heat is used. On some areas of the car it would be fine, other areas it could create a nightmare.:cross-eye In areas that are not flat sheetmetal such as around the battery etc, it should work fine. Outer body panels for the most part it would be best to let only highly skilled people do it. I've done a bit of brazing in the past on steel air tanks on tractor trailers where the mounting straps would hold moisture and the steel would end up with small rust pits that would leak air. Fairly thick steel, and you could use the braze to fill in the pits in the steel. A little too much heat and you burned a hole in the tank, not enough and the braze just sat on top of the steel and blew off under air pressure.

Hmm, sounds odd.... Could be the bands are slipping just enough that the extra added resistence is causing it to do this. What color is the fluid? If it's anything other than the original reddish color, you've got an internal problem that is causing the trouble. Any color other than red, or with a burned smell to the fluid indicates slippage of the bands. Only other thing I can think of is that the linkage is out of adjustment, and the slight twist while the car is on an incline could possibly be just enough that it is not completely engaging the trans into gear.

According to my old manual, it should be at normal operating temp. Park the car and set the parking brake, move the gear selector into each individual gear, then put it in Park and check the level with the engine idling at the proper idle RPM.

Does make you stop and think a minute doesn't it? I'm sitting here looking at a bottle of Mountain Dew, and thinking about how much of it I drink, in terms of cost per gallon....:cross-eye :stupid:

Think a gallon of gas is expensive? This makes one think, and also puts things in perspective. Diet Snapple 16 oz $1.29 ..... $10.32/ga Lipton Ice Tea 16 oz $1.19 ........$ 9.52/ga Gatorade 20 oz $1.59 ...... $10.17/ga Ocean Spray 16 oz $1.25 .....$10.00/ga Brake Fluid 12 oz $3.15 ..... $33.60/ga Vick's Nyquil 6 oz $8.35 ...$178.13/ga Pepto Bismol 4 oz $3.85....$123.20/ga Whiteout 7 oz $1.39 ....$25.42/ga Scope 1.5 oz $0.99 ....$84.48 per gallon ~~And this is the REAL KICKER~~ Evian water 9 oz $1.49....$21.19/ga That's $21.19 a gallon for WATER! - and the buyers don't even know the source. So, the next time you're at the pump, be glad your car doesn't run on water, Scope, or Whiteout, or God forbid Pepto Bismal or Nyquil. Just a little humor to help ease the pain of your next trip to the pump...

It's connected to the ECM is some way. I know what it does, but don't know exactly where it ties into the FI system. At one time I knew what it was called, but it's name escapes me at the moment. My 75 280 had a problem crop up whenever I pulled up to a stoplight, or when shifting the idle wouldn't drop. I'd pull up to a stoplight, and the car would idle at 1200RPM's. One of the techs at the Nissan dealer told me there was a sensor in the back of the speedo that told the ECM what speed the car was running. I pulled the speedo, replaced it with another used one, and to this day the car is fine.

The biggest rule is "caveat emptor", or let the buyer beware. If they know how to use a computer to bid on Ebay, they should obviously be able to find somewhere to ask if what they are bidding on is what it is claimed to be. There have been a few people who have asked our opinion on a car on Ebay, but, sadly, those are in the minority. I e-mailed the seller of the so called BSR "race car" about it not being as advertised, or would need documentation to prove his claim. He wasn't the seller, only a Ebay Listing agent, who was more than happy to change the auction to protect his reputation. He asked me many questions, and I referred him to other people who could vouch for what I had told him. He then asked me in numerous e-mails more questions about the car and what I thought it would bring as far as a price. The last time I saw it listed, it was getting bids, and the high bid was almost exactly in the middle of the price range I told him it should bring. Not every seller is going to accept advice like that, nor do I think we should give it. When we discuss a cars shortcomings here, the info is out there for anyone to look at it. If it is not seen or heeded, then the buyer is getting exactly what they deserve. The whole idea behind a free market society is an educated consumer, and for those who choose not to educate themselves, then they are only hurting themselves.

I don't know that I've ever seen an aluminum slot in anything larger than a 15 inch rim. At one time, every wheel manufacturer sold at least one model of aluminum slotted wheel, today, I doubt if you could find more than one or two that still make them, if that. There are a couple manufacturers that are making reproductions of classic wheels they discontinued years ago, in modern sizes, but so far, I haven't seen a slot.

Your best bet is probably going to be Ebay... I've seen quite a few center caps on there lately. Unless someone here happens to have a set they don't need.

Powder coating wouldn't work as it will scratch and flake off just like paint would, and it can't be touched up like paint can. Eastwoods has a kit called Golden Cad you could try. It's a 3 parts aerosol paint kit that sells for 37 bucks. It's part number 10331Z in their catalog. I tried to open their webs-site and post the link to the kit, but for some reason I can't get their site to open... www.eastwood.com

Actually, that's a good thing...:devious: No wheel spin means the diff is doing it's job. If it's really noisy, try the LSD additive from GM and drive it around for a few days and see if it quiets down. If not, you may want to find out if the guy who installed it shimmed the friction plates or if it was left at it's factory setting. If he shimmed it, he may want to back off just a bit for a little more slippage, for a street car a little more slippage is better.

Looks more like a 73 with an early rear bumper.

Most likely the "gear noises" you are hearing are in the ring and pinion because of LSD plates not slipping as they should. Either the LSD has been set up a little too tight, or the plates are "chattering". There are no gears in a LSD only friction plates very similar to a clutch disc. They are set to slip on turns so that the outside wheel can turn faster than the inside wheel when you make a turn as the outside wheel travels in a longer arc while turning. Shimming of the friction plates will allow less slippage, thereby creating a more "locked" differential and because of the difference in the speed of the wheels in the arc while turning, they driveline must absorb the shock of that which will cause a lot of noise. The more slip you have, the less noise you will hear, but, the diff won't lock up both drive wheels as well. On a street car, you want a little more slippage, as you will want it to slip so that it doesn't affect the handling. On a track car, you want less slippage and a quicker lock up, and less slippage means less heat caused by the friction plates as well. If the LSD has not been shimmed, I'd say that the friction plates aren't slipping as they should. You could try a LSD additive which will allow them to slip and then cause less noise. GM has a pretty good additive that you can get at any GM dealer, and it's pretty cheap too. I've used it in a couple of my Dodge pickups as the LSD's in them were a bit "clunky" and the noise was much less noticeable after adding the GM additive.

A 10 psi jump by putting a small amount of oil in the cylinders is a fairly significant jump showing that your rings and/or cylinder bores are worn. The valves and/or associated hardware are probably contributing the most as far as compression loss. It could be the valves themselves, valve seats, weak valve springs, adjustments way off or any combination of the above..... 130 dry is getting pretty close to what I would consider time for a rebuild. You could do a compression leakdown test to determine where the worst of the loss is. Pressurizing the cylinder and listening to the air trying to escape and where it is coming from will tell you where the worst area is, either rings/cylinders or valve/head related. Air loss will be most noticeable through the intake/carbs/throttle body if the major damage is in the head/valves and air escaping through the rings/cylinders will be heard by listening to the oil fill on the valve cover.

Sounds like either the master cylinder needs to be replaced, or you have air trapped in the master cylinder. How low was the fluid level before you re-filled it? Does the master cylinder reservoir have a lot of black "crud" in the bottom of the reservoir? If so , did you remove the screen (small needle nose will get it out)and clean it before you filled it with fluid? There is no provision to bleed the master cylinders independantly of the rest of the system, so this is how I do it. Break loose the bleeder on the slave cylinder, fit a plastic hose onto the bleeder and put it in a bottle of some type with a little fluid in the bottom with the end of the hose in the fluid. With your fingers, lightly close the bleeder so that it is barely open and then depress the clutch pedal 4-6 times. By opening the bleeder only slightly like this will put a little "backpressure" in the system and help force any air out of the master cylinder. If you open the bleeder on the slave it will bleed by gravity, but it won't force out any trapped air. Make sure the master cylinder reservoir stays at least half full during this process. If you still have no clutch after this 20 minute job, you need a new master cylinder.

I was thinking the same thing. To be honest, you can usually buy a Touch Up Gun for a lot less than a good quality airbrush. I think I got mine for about 50-60 bucks FWIW.

There's a few sequential transmissions on the market that will work on a Z, if you've got the big bucks.....:cross-eye Quaiffe, Houseman and I think Taylor offer them, for about 5K and up.... Paddle shifts I think are pretty much a fantasy as far as retrofitting on an older car, unless you've got a ton of money to invest.:disappoin

It's not far from the GM blue...guess it's somewhere in between a blue and turquoise. Classic Datsun Motorsports has the correct color in spray cans if you want the original color.

I was going to ask him why the engine had been out of the car with only 4400+ miles and the block re-painted, then I realized it would be a total waste of time.....

My biggest gripe with all of "pro sports" is that probably 90% of these athletes are in it for the money and glamour, and not for the love of the "sport". If you look up "sport" in Webster's dicitonary, does it say anything about 40 million dollar, multi-year contracts? Racing is not a sport anymore, it's a business. Only the amateur racers who work hard, and pay their own way to do what they love is the real "sportsman". How many of them would drive in Nascar, IRL or whatever, or play baseball, b-ball, football etc, if they only made as much as someone who works like a dog to bring home under 100K a year? My answer is, not very many. They always like to remind us that they love what they do, but, would they love it if they weren't being made multi-millionaires?

I always watch the Nascar races at Bristol, Watkins Glen or Sonoma... the rest I don't really car about anymore. Too much "political correctness" being applied by Nascar and the networks. It's getting so the drivers are afraid to say hell or damn even after some bozo rams them head on into a concrete wall.

Must be the thin air that has him acting so confused.... I noticed the first couple times it was listed, it did get a bid at 25K, yet they either didn't like the bidders feedback or lack of it, or the bidder retracted his bid. He wants "Ebay-ers" to pay what a collector paid at a collector car auction? Oh well, hope they have been keeping it in the dealership showroom.

Hmm, claims it only has 4484 miles, yet the block isn't the original color.... carbs not original, hacked up air cleaner. 280 seat covers.... those must have been 4484 hard miles or someone didn't like their tail sweating... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2470423486&category=6187

It's been re-listed yet again....now the starting bid is 28K.... I wouldn't buy it for the simple reason the seller has no idea what they are doing..... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2470239118&category=6187