2ManyZs

There are a few places left for the parts you are looking for. One is Motorsport Auto, they will have the air dams and rear spoilers and a couple different styles of fender flares. Another is Z Car Body Parts, they have mainly these same items, and they also have the IMSA style body kits, and the California Z kit orginally sold by Jim Cook many years ago. There have been a couple suppliers who have recantly gon out of business, so the number of suppliers is steadily dwindling. You can find both of these in the web-links here on the site, and a few others as well. Take a look around and do some shopping for what you are looking for.

Mr. Camouflage, I think the console piece in question is the arm rest on the rear of the console seen in the first group of pics, you have to look hard to see it. It was a dealer option in 72 according to the info on zhome, not sure if it was offered before that or not. May have been added later when it was available. It's a shame the production numbers on zhome don't break down the production numbers between the manual and automatic. But sincde the total production for the US in both 70 and 71 is less than 72, I would have to say an automatic is part of a small number as far as the yearly production numbers. I've seen that center cap before as well, but can't remember what wheel it was. Oh well. Looks like a good candidate for a good cleaning first and foremost. Then it would be just a matter of checking out the body for any rust and going over the mechanicals. One word of warning, I rememeber some discussion about the early automatics not being as good as the later auto's. Besides that, they are very hard to find if anything is wrong or needs to be replaced. Just though you might want to know in order that you can do a thorough job of inspecting the mechanicals.

The coil springs are not interchangeable between the 240 and 280. The 280 springs are longer and also stiffer. You would have to cut the 280 springs to get the car back down to it original ride height, and that would be a guessing game on how much to cut. The springs are interchangeable between all the 240's and the early 260 with the small bumpers though. The late 260 (big bumpers, FI) and the 280's all have a larger diameter strut housing and it is longer by approx. 2 inches. You could probably find a set here by posting in the wanted section of the classifieds, someone somewhere is probably changing their stock springs and may be willing to sell the set. Plus there are quite of few who have a stock pile of extra parts, I'm one of them, but right now I don't have a set of springs to offer you. If you can't find a set, get back to me in a few weeks and I'll see what I can do.

Early 240's before 72 didn't come with a rear bar standard (at least here in the US) but they all came with a front bar. Most of the time the front bar is a bit more expensive than the rear one. If you run a rear bar without a front one you may end up with more oversteer than you would like. I'd either run just a front bar or as a pair. A lot of it will have to do with what size bar (or bars) you install.

Never had to do it, but I would say you could probably do it without removing the whole door. You could try to block the rear of the door to hold it up(maybe with a jackstand) and just remove the hinge itself. There should be someone here with a complete door hinge from a parts car, you could try placing a wanted ad in the classifieds here.

I would use a spring from a Z. It will have the proper size and tension for the weight of the door. You should be able to find one at a junkyard or maybe someone here that is stripping a car out for parts. Been a lot of them losing their life lately due to too much rust seems like.

Hmm, that's funny, I just finished watching Gone in 60 Seconds!

I think the only way to change your username is to go to the Administrator. Mike had to change mine when the chatroom was first available because I had an apostrophe in my username, it wasn't recognized by the chatroom software and would not let me enter.

Besides what Rick said, be sure to check your fluid level in the clutch master cylinder. If it is OK, the first thing to check is the master cylinder/slave cylinder operation. Much easier to replsce these instead of replacing a clutch disc if there is nothing wrong with the clutch itself. It may also have contaminated fluid in the master cylinder. If the hydraulics are OK as well as the slave cylinder adjustment, it may be time for a clutch and pressure plate. One other item, check the adjustment on the clutch pedal itself. Check nthe height of the pedal from the floor (find the measurements in most any good repair manual) before you start tearing things apart. It may be something simple.

If you have an E-88 it should have round intake ports and square(or more accurately rectangular) exhaust ports.

If you search through the web-links here you should be able to find probably 90% of the repair panels you may need. Motorsport Auto, Zedd Findings and many others have floor pans, frame rails, rocker panels, quarter panel repair panels, lower front fender repair panels. About the only thing you may have trouble with is under the battery tray on the inner fender, this may need to be fabricated if it is rusted through. Not an easy job, but with patience it can be done quite well if welded properly. Be sure to check inside the rear wheel wells, the rocker panels, the bottoms of the front fenders, under the battery tray, behind the seats on the floor pans, and the bottoms of the front strut towers above the frame rails. If you use the search function you should be able to find many threads and posts dealing with rust issues. Good luck on your project, it sounds like you may have a car that needs to be fixed and brought back to life.

As far as the 350 is concerned, does anyone really care?? I know I don't. No matter where the steering wheel is put, it won't help the looks of that! :sick:

1 person, 4 Z cars. 2 Many Zs for the two car garage. :cross-eye But I have been hearing 2 Many Posts:ermm:

I don't think I would use asbestos, you might run into problems with the EPA! Seriously though, I think you could find better products on the parket than asbestos. Try looking at the Pegasus web-site, they have some heat shield material that is not too expensive you could try. Only other thing is buying a header blanket. Not the tape, you can get a blanket that slips over the header that would work much better IMO. I used the tape on the old IT car and didn't like it. If you run in rain it will absorb moisture and cause the header to rust out that much faster. I would recommend the blanket for this reason, the heat needs to stay in the header as much as possible. If you allow it to escape into the engine compartment it heats up the whole compartment, so no amount of shielding under the intake is going to do any good once the underhood temp goes up. You need to keep it in the exhaust system where it will escape the engine compartment to keep the underhood temps to a reasonable degree. With the blanket you not only help keep the exhaust heat inside the header, but the radiant heat from the header will be kept mainly inside the blanket. I believe Pegasus also has these and perhaps MSA, can't remember where I got mine, it's one of those things that has never been out of the box yet. I can't say for sutre it will work better than header tape, but the idea is sound at least. Only other thing is to route outside air from the grill area, the open hole on the side of the radiator support is a good place to put some type of ducting to route cooler air to the intake/exhaust area. Or perhaps an electric pusher fan in front of the radiator to force more air through the radiator and keep the air circulating under the hood when you are driving at slower speeds.

If there is a relay it should be on the passengers side kick panel under the glove box. I don't have the microfiche CD or a manual that gives the number on it so can't be more specific. :disappoin

A 225/60 would probably be a bit too wide for a 6 inch wheel, they are just about right for a 7 inch rim. Might be better to use a 205/60 or maybe even a 195/60 if you can find one. When choosing tire sizes you should look at the recommended rim widths from the manufacturer, you will get much better wear and handling if you do not go to too wide a tire on the rims you have. All tire makers usually give a recommended wheel width for each size of tire. The section width of the tire should not be more than about an inch wider than the wheel you are using. If the sidewalls are bulging too far past the rim you will not have all the tread on the road. Take a look around on the Tire Racks web-site for tires and sizes for 6 inch rims. You should be able to find many tires available using their web-site. www.tirerack.com

I did? Hmm, must be geezing again. I did say it was a close guess didn't I? I know they went to the R-200 then changed back and forth for some reason. I find it odd they would go back to the R-180 at all after they started outfitting the 280's with the R-200's in the first place. Maybe someone can shed a little light on the reason behind this. I don't think I've ever seen anything in print that explains why they changed back and forth between the R-180 and the R-200. I found it out by accident when I was racing and looking through FSM's and saw that the 280's were available with both during their model run.

Gee, I'm just all broken up about that "Tater"LOL Just think, in 5 months I'll be in the same age category with you. :disappoin :tapemouth :sick: :mad: :cross-eye

Dazza, that's one I've never heard. A lot of truth in that one eh?:cheeky: I'm 40, soon to be 41. Still playing with cars like I did when I was 18, just have more of them and can afford to fix them they way they should be fixed. I traded my first car for a motorcycle because I couldn't afford a new carburetor for the car, even then Holley's were a bit expensive when you were only making $2.25 and hour. Wish I had that 73 Cuda back now.:stupid: Old age and treachery will always overcome youth and inexperience. :devious:

None of my books have it either, so since it says 11ft-lbs for the large front cover bolts, I would use that setting for the water pump bolts. 10-12 ft-lbs sounds pretty close to me. Anyone else have the correct torque setting? As far as the broken bolt goes, try soaking it with a good penetrating oit for a day before you try to remove it. Use a GOOD extractor, not a cheap one from Pep Boys or something like that (remember you get what you pay for, drill it as straight and as well centered as possible (center punch it first). If you cannot get it to budge, then don't force the issue and go without as Jeremiah said. I would at least give it one try to remove it instead of going without it not having tried to remove it.

The R-200 was the only rear that came from the factory with a LSD in the US, 87 was the first year it was available. Here's a close guess on the years available. 70-74 R-180 75-76 R-200 77-78 R-180 79 and up all had R-200's Don't ask me why they had both R-180's and R-200's in the 280Z's. Nissan Competition had units available for all the rear diffs, not usr eif they are still available or not. If they are, they will be rather expensive. They used to be over 700 last I knew.

Not sure if the US spec taillight assemblies are still available or not to tell the truth. I know Too Intense Restorations had a set advertised on their web-site, but no price was listed. I haven't gotten the new MSA catalog so don't know if they still have them or not. Their old catalog has them listed for 98 and 108, don't know why one side is 10 dollars more than the other though. Newest VB catalog has them listed for 169.00 each.:tapemouth

That reminds me of one place often overlooked. The inner shift boot. If you have even a small exhaust leak it will suck it in around the shifter boot and right in your face. :sick:

Yup, it's funny, unless you have a neighbor who is a close relative to JD8! I think mine must be his aunt!

Actually, all crankshafts may not be balanced as well as they should be. It should also be balanced separately. Once it is balanced and the rods and pistons are balanced, only then is it truly a balanced assembly.