2ManyZs

You know the saying Royce, "It's in the Mail"? You better hope it's not on my truck. :eek:

There aren't too many manufacturers that make 14 inch wheels anymore. Most are concentrating on 15's,16's, etc. You may have to really search for the 14's. There are still a few that make 14 inch that will fit, Revolution, a couple from American Racing, and possibly some from Z Racing from Sears, probably a few others I'm missing. You will have much better luck if you look for 15's. Use a 15 inch wheel with a lower profile tire. Not sure if their is any other car that uses the same bolt pattern unless it's from Nissan. Best bet is to find used sets if you plan on using 14 inch wheels. Check on Zparts.com, he has quite a few wheels on there but most aren't in full sets of four.

Hmm, sounds like fun. Just one small observation though, if they are following the old 72 GCCR and prep rules, the green car should say CP not EP. Z cars were in C Production in the 70's.

Yes there are dry sumps available for the L series, most of the E-Production racers use them. Not sure but I think Malvern Racing has them. Rebello probably has them as well. In EP you can use the dry sump and the crank fired ignition and a few other mods but basically the induction system and head must remain fairly stock.

The tan one is some kinda schweeeeet! I take it this was not a sanctioned race weekend? The green car looks too stock to be running in EP. Looks like it has the stock suspension even, not to mention it doesn't look to have a complete roll cage, just a roll bar. Must be a work in progress.....

Congratulations Royce, looks like you got "promoted". If Mike was having fun, I'd hate to see what he has in store for the rest of us.:eek: Hmm, when I replied mine got the same thing. There seems to be something "lurking in the shadows here".............

A picture would be great, a couple would be better, especially if you can take one of the rust area. Might be a few of us interested.

If you get a kit such as the one that MSA sells, it will give you everything you need to install the A/C. It will more than likely be at least a weekend project. The hardest part will be installing the all the under dash components, you may have to remove the heater unit to add on the A/C and related ducting. All the parts under the hood will be easy, it's inside that will be the most work. I haven't tried it, so cannot give you any definate answers to how long or how much labor is involved.

I think it's in the 450lb range, I remember picking up a crate L-28 many years ago in a pickup and it only took two of us to lift it off the ground and set it in the back of the truck. That was a long block in a crate, so if two skinny guys can lift it it can't be too heavy.

:mad: It's just not fair!!!!!!!!!:tapemouth

Looks like the 15x7 Panasports I have, although these could be 16's. Hard to tell.

Must be why pickups are high on the list too, so Harley riders can get their bikes back home after a ride around the block.

Since you can hear it more on the inside than under the hood, I would suspect the master-vac. It may be leaking past the plunger from the brake pedal assembly and through the firewall. Anothe thing to check is the vacuum line check valve in the middle of the line to the master-vac.

Ditto Jim's comment on the steering rack bushing replacement, it will make a world of difference. You do not need to replace the sway bars right now, I would concentrate on bushings, rack bushings and steering coupler, springs and strut cartridges. Once you have these done, drive it a while and then decide if you really need/want to replace the bars. If you are going to change the springs I would do all four corners at the same time, get your alignment checked and you are done. it would be an ill handling and riding car if you did one end at a time.

Well, if you want a better suspension and still have a decent highway ride, you can get a set of Eibach progressive rate springs for about 275-300. A set of good quality strut replacement cartridges will cost anywhere from 250 to 300. Tehn you still would need to address swaybars, which will be in the another 200-250. That will still leave a good set of urethane suspension bushings to replace the old rotted out rubber ones. So, as you can see, 800 is not going to go very far, but it will be far less than 2500. All the parts could be purchased from MSA, or any one of a dozen other Z parts suppliers, all you have to do is add the labor. If you upgrade the suspension, you should also upgrade to stainless brake lines and a good set of performance brake pads at the very least. This will at least give you a good start on a better performing car, however, if you are on a budget, you can just do one thing at a time, and pay for it as you go.

Bill, try this link, it was posted on May 2nd, so he may or may not still have them. http://www.zcar.com/classifieds/class_parts/11983 240znz said he found an ad for a set in the UK without the manifold, if this set is gone.

I think I remember seeing a set in the classifieds on zcar.com or zdriver.com recently for 800. Can't seem to find the ad now though, I'm not sure if they were 40's or 44's.

It all depends on how much you want to spend. If the 73 for 1700 doesn't have any "hidden issues" that will be the cheapest and quickest way into a Z. But for the price it may have some rust hiding somewhere the owner doesn't want to deal with. A set of triple Webers will cost almost half of what he's asking, I'd check it over carefully. I'd have to seriously look at the one for 3200. It's not too expensive and it's not so cheap that it may have a lot of problems. Or, if you don't want to do any work and want a nice car to drive and show off go for the 72 for 5k. IMO the only way to decide would be to make a list of good points/bad points on each of these cars and decide from there.

Guess they don't drive like idiots only on the highways huh?

shock96 you didn't read my post right, or I didn't word it right. Yes, the Quaiffe is a torque biasing diff, but like the Torson it is done with gears, not clutch packs that use friction for lock up. When the Quaife or Torson are transferring power from one wheel to another it is done mechanically, there is no slippage inside the differential, therefore it does lock up mechanically. The LSD will never truly lock up since it is made to slip to a certain extent. Shimming the clutch packs limits the amount of slippage, but like a clutch there will always be frictional loss. In a straight line the Quaiffe will transmit power to each wheel in a 50-50 split given there is no loss of traction, but in a straight line the LSD will not divide the power equally since there will be slippage in the differential itself.

Other than trying to seal it with a silicone windshield sealant, the only other alternative would be to replace the windshield gasket entirely. It's not a hard job, it will require a helper when you go to put the windshield back in, but for around 50 bucks for a gasket and an afternoon working on it, it's probably the best alternative. If you have had water getting under the gasket for a while you may have some rust developing under the seal, so removing the windshield might actually be the best course of action to keep from having more trouble down the road.

From what I've heard and read, some of the Subaru's had an R-200 with a Torson. Never have figured out which year or model it may have came in though. I bought an R-200 a while back with a Torson unit in it and was told the Torson was for a Subaru, that's about all I know. Never have taken the time to do any research on it. There were no limited slips offered from the factory in a Z until about 87 if I remember right.

I just used hose from the local auto parts store. Most will have fule injection hose, it's a bit stronger than the regular hose. BTW, be careful when you take the little clips off the injectors, they like to "fly away" and the wiring plugs probably are very brittle, so try no to force them if you don't have too. You can get replacement ends for the wiring harnesses if you need them.

Many years ago when I was first putting the 280 together I bought a set of Bosch high flow injectors from the local import car parts outlet. Had good luck with them. Not sure of any others that are any better, never needed them after I changed them. Is the cold start injector working? It's mounted near the front of the intake, it acts as a choke on the fuel injected cars. If not, it may be in the cold start valve or the water temp sensor. My 280 started up quite easily after sitting for over 5 years without running. You should replace all the injector rail hoses, they have a habitof dry rotting and the last thing you need is them to burst. Just take all the clips loose on the injectors and take the whole injector/fuel rail assembly off as one, then seperate it into two halves and replace the hoses with fuel injection hoses. You have quite a bit of pressure in the rail so regular fuel hose may not be strong enough.

As far as the R-200 from the Z cars go, any 280 after 1975 will have the R-200. The late 300ZX's also used an R-200 variation, but these will require quite a bit of work to use in an early Z, they used CV joints instead of U-joints so they won't be a simple bolt in. I would look for one from a 75-about 84 for a direct bolt in. The R-180 won't hold up to a V-8 conversion for very long, it might work but won't last very long compared to the R-200. In a side by side comparison an R-200 is considerably larger than the R-180. Not sure about the Audi, but I do believe some of the Subaru's used an R-200 diff. Not sure which ones but I'm quite sure that the Torson unit I have for an R-200 was made for a Subaru application.