2ManyZs

Hmm, good question..... It should only have one unless a PO put it there for some unknown reason. Maybe they were having trouble and thought two was better than one? Never know what a previous owner was thinking when they do some of the things they do to a car....... Actually the 73's didn't have an electric pump at the rear when they were sold until the recall for the vapor lock/driveability troubles, at which time Nissan recalled them and put a kit on them. The kit consisted of the electric fuel pump, 7 bladed engine fan, and the insulation for the fuel line, and maybe one other thing that I can't remember......

Engine bay looks to have been painted with a brush and the paint is falling off, I think that's why it looks like it burned. But that roof and hatch is what would scare me away.... what a POS that is. If the roof and hatch have rusted through like that, what's the underside look like??:cross-eye :sick: He'd be lucky to sell that for more than 500 bucks....I'd be afraid to twist the chassis putting it on a trailer with a roof that looks like that, car is liable to end up bent in a V.....

Try sending a PM to pparaska here, he's a member here and one of the moderators over there. Might be something with their new server causing problems. Funny you can't contact them over there though......

And, if your 280 doesn't have the oil pressure cut off switch, since the switch you used was for a 79, that may the whole problem in itself. For what it's worth, mixing the different years is never a good idea with electrical parts, there are so many different variations of connectors and shared systems in the electrical system that it usually won't work. It becomes even worse with the fuel injected cars.

My question would be if you replaced the electrical part of the switch with a brand new piece or a used one? Does everything else go off along with the fuel pump when you put it in the ON or Start position? If it's just the fuel pump that goes off, it could possibly be the fuel pump relay on the kick panel that is bad. If the switch you used wasn't new, it may have the same problem the one you replaced had. MidwestZ has both parts of the switch available brand new, although, the complete switch is a bit pricey.

Hmm, MSA has the Panasports in 15x7 for 219.95 each..... and you can get them cheaper (maybe 20 each or so) if you shop around. I think Dave Turner Motorsports has some of the best prices on Pana's. www.daveturner.com

I've often wondered if the bidders I was bidding against were members here, or if the sellers were members...... I guess it's better to lose to one of our members than members of those "other" Z sites isn't it?:devious:

If you decide not to use the fiberglass fenders, can I get first dibs on them Jeremiah?:devious: I'll trade you a 74 and a 76 parts car for them.... Of course, you'll have to come and get them....

The R-200 diff should hold up to an LS1 without too much trouble. But, if you want info on the Vetter swap or something like that, you're better off with the people who have done it over on www.hybridz.org

or just in case you forget they are fiberglass and lean on them too hard.... or just in case you want to sell the car to finance a roadster project and the buyer wants the originals.... or......:cross-eye

You finally thawing out up there Deedee??? Look at this thread, it probably holds true for ZX to ZX as well as ZX to Z. Might help you a little bit. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=12227

I'm pretty sure that with the Maxima brackets you will have to pull the stub axle. I think that is why the brackets from Modern Motorsports and others are so popular, as you don't have to pull the stub axle to mount them.

I think I'd use the fiberglass fenders if originality isn't important. Then, fix the original fenders when you have time, prime them, and stash them away for "just in case"....

I like the Intense Blue on my pickup, but since so many people have been painting their Z's blue lately, I think I'm going to go with either 920 Gold, or, a new Grey Pearl that Dodge has.... Here's the Intense Blue..

I've probably got one or maybe two here, but I don't know what they look like on the backside..... How much you willin to spend?:devious:

If you guys collect a bunch of pics, we can make a category under 2004 Events in the Gallery if you want to post them in the Gallery for everyone. Just let one of us know.

I think Mike was just trying to "conserve energy"....

It doesn't really have an offset or bend, it mounts in the opposite direction as the 180 bar. Ther's a good pic somewhere around here that shows the mustache bars mounted on the diffs, but I can't remember where the heck it is now...:stupid:

Most likely it is, but, if the oil looks like the froth on top of a cappuchinno or whatever that "stuff" is that Starbucks sells, it could be as simple as a worn oil pump that is cavitating and filling the oil with air too, or a clogged oil pickup could do it as well.... You could also test it by doing a leak down test on the radiator, pressurize it, and if it leaks down with no obvious signs of leakage on the outside of the engine or around the heater inside, it's probably the head gasket. If you pressurize the rad, and it loses pressure no signs of leakage, you should find evidence of fresh coolant on the dipstick that will be unmistakeable.

:cross-eye :cross-eye Gotta figure, sooner or later, everything shows up for sale on Ebay doesn't it??

The one in Texas was listed as a "Bob Sharp race car" until I e-mailed the seller and told him he ought to put the truth in the listing instead of what he was claiming. The seller is one of the "middle men", listing it for another individual, so it's not his fault, he could only list what the owner told him, but it's "more" correct now. The owner is still hoping for 6500, which is too much for that car. Probably only worth 2500-4K at most. If he takes those stupid traction bars off that makes it look like a "half-arsed" attempt to "make a silk purse out of a sow's ear". It's kinda funny, the seller of that car just e-mailed me thanking me for setting the record straight on the car just before you posted this... I sent him to Carl Beck to verify what I was telling him.....:devious: The second car is probably the better deal, if the chassis is as rust free as he claims. I'd want to see more detailed pics of the underside and under the hood than what he has posted before making any decision on what it could go for. If it is truly in the condition he describes, being on the east coast in that condition, it could end up being bid to a pretty substantial price as rust free (or nearly rust free) cars on the east coast are getting scarce.

I remember my 75 having pieces similar to Stephen's, all those plastic splash shields went into the dumpster when I stripped it out to race many years ago....:stupid:

I'd say they need the specific model/year for a reason, probably has to do with whatever engine the model may have been equipped with as standard equip or optional. I have no ideas other than that, never messed with front drivers of any kind....

If you are starting with an L-24, 200hp is gonna cost a bundle. If you are starting with an L-28, it's gonna cost you a lot less as you will be starting with an extra 20hp to begin with. Much less money involved in a 200hp build up on an L-28.

All the FWD cars used cables as far as I know, as do most all FWD cars by any manufacturer. In a longitudinal engine, it's not needed, only on the transverse engines would they need a cable.