2ManyZs

You finally thawing out up there Deedee??? Look at this thread, it probably holds true for ZX to ZX as well as ZX to Z. Might help you a little bit. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=12227

I'm pretty sure that with the Maxima brackets you will have to pull the stub axle. I think that is why the brackets from Modern Motorsports and others are so popular, as you don't have to pull the stub axle to mount them.

I think I'd use the fiberglass fenders if originality isn't important. Then, fix the original fenders when you have time, prime them, and stash them away for "just in case"....

I like the Intense Blue on my pickup, but since so many people have been painting their Z's blue lately, I think I'm going to go with either 920 Gold, or, a new Grey Pearl that Dodge has.... Here's the Intense Blue..

I've probably got one or maybe two here, but I don't know what they look like on the backside..... How much you willin to spend?:devious:

If you guys collect a bunch of pics, we can make a category under 2004 Events in the Gallery if you want to post them in the Gallery for everyone. Just let one of us know.

I think Mike was just trying to "conserve energy"....

It doesn't really have an offset or bend, it mounts in the opposite direction as the 180 bar. Ther's a good pic somewhere around here that shows the mustache bars mounted on the diffs, but I can't remember where the heck it is now...:stupid:

Most likely it is, but, if the oil looks like the froth on top of a cappuchinno or whatever that "stuff" is that Starbucks sells, it could be as simple as a worn oil pump that is cavitating and filling the oil with air too, or a clogged oil pickup could do it as well.... You could also test it by doing a leak down test on the radiator, pressurize it, and if it leaks down with no obvious signs of leakage on the outside of the engine or around the heater inside, it's probably the head gasket. If you pressurize the rad, and it loses pressure no signs of leakage, you should find evidence of fresh coolant on the dipstick that will be unmistakeable.

:cross-eye :cross-eye Gotta figure, sooner or later, everything shows up for sale on Ebay doesn't it??

The one in Texas was listed as a "Bob Sharp race car" until I e-mailed the seller and told him he ought to put the truth in the listing instead of what he was claiming. The seller is one of the "middle men", listing it for another individual, so it's not his fault, he could only list what the owner told him, but it's "more" correct now. The owner is still hoping for 6500, which is too much for that car. Probably only worth 2500-4K at most. If he takes those stupid traction bars off that makes it look like a "half-arsed" attempt to "make a silk purse out of a sow's ear". It's kinda funny, the seller of that car just e-mailed me thanking me for setting the record straight on the car just before you posted this... I sent him to Carl Beck to verify what I was telling him.....:devious: The second car is probably the better deal, if the chassis is as rust free as he claims. I'd want to see more detailed pics of the underside and under the hood than what he has posted before making any decision on what it could go for. If it is truly in the condition he describes, being on the east coast in that condition, it could end up being bid to a pretty substantial price as rust free (or nearly rust free) cars on the east coast are getting scarce.

I remember my 75 having pieces similar to Stephen's, all those plastic splash shields went into the dumpster when I stripped it out to race many years ago....:stupid:

I'd say they need the specific model/year for a reason, probably has to do with whatever engine the model may have been equipped with as standard equip or optional. I have no ideas other than that, never messed with front drivers of any kind....

If you are starting with an L-24, 200hp is gonna cost a bundle. If you are starting with an L-28, it's gonna cost you a lot less as you will be starting with an extra 20hp to begin with. Much less money involved in a 200hp build up on an L-28.

All the FWD cars used cables as far as I know, as do most all FWD cars by any manufacturer. In a longitudinal engine, it's not needed, only on the transverse engines would they need a cable.

You only have four bolts holding the inner control arm mounts, those usually do not break. Other than that, it's just a matter of unhooking the sway bar, e-brake cable housing, and brake line, half shaft, and it's off. Best bet in your predicament would be to have it pressed out at a machine shop with a good press. They might find it easier to use a hacksaw or sawzall to cut the spindle pin and then press out the pin from each piece individually(just enough room between the bottom of the strut housing and control arm), but I'd take the whole thing and see if they can do it that way first.

In a Z? None that I know of.

I doubt if it can be made to work, I'm suprised it even fires up. Couple reasons, there is no "chip" you can change in the ECM, you have to use the complete ECM. Doubt the harness connections will match up, even if the connections worked, the ECM's are not the same. Each engine has it's own specific ECM. Plus, ZX's had sensors for the FI that 78's didn't.

Or, depending on which head you have on the engines, if the exhaust ports are both the same (square or round) you could just swap the long block of the ZX motor into the car and run the 77 intake etc as a whole. Might even be easier if the head ports don't match, to swap the head from one to the other instead of messing with the wiring harness and possibly having more trouble down the road... Of course, this also depends on what is wrong with the motor in the 77...

Pull the rear cover and dump the lube oil in a large flat drain pan so you can swirl it around and check for metal shavings. Then you can visually inspect the teeth on the ring gear for wear or uneven grooves in the face of the teeth. Check for excessive backlash by spinning the input shaft with your one hand, and see how much slack is in the pinion gear/ring gear. Then you can spin the output shafts and listen for bearing noises. Only 36K on it, it should be OK, but, to make sure it was a well serviced 36K do those checks, refill with new gear lube and it ought to be good to go. Replacing the rear cover gasket is the only thing you should have to do if it doesn't show any obvious signs of abuse or neglect. Then, after you drive it a little, check for leaks at the side flanges and front pinion seal as they may have dried up and become brittle if they didn't have any grease on them while it was sitting.

hehe, ain't tellin all my secrets....:devious: I just happend to remember we just had a thread on it and what forum it was in...then I opened the thread to make sure it was the right one and did a copy and paste of the URL....

EScanlon can probably give you a good estimate, but you'll have to supply a little more info, such as type of paint, type of reducer you used etc...

That car has been discussed a couple time already. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=11630 Price is too high for one thing, and there's a couple other things that don't quite add up...... I noticed he did get a bid at 25K, yet it keeps getting re-listed, so obviously he thinks it's worth much more than that. The highest we've seen one of the Z Store cars sell for was around 18.5K on Ebay, and it was a much nicer car, with no "oddities"....

If it just started suddenly, I doubt it's vapor lock, unless you still have the water line connected to the intake that is. Sounds like either an ignition problem, bad tank of gas, fuel filter clogged, plug fouled, plug wire shorting across another wire..... if it were vapor lock, it would have been doing it all along, or at least to the point you would have noticed it. Probably end up being one of those things that make you slap your forehead and ask yourself, "Why didn't I think of that"....:cheeky:

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=12123