2ManyZs

Hey, it could be worse, you could have put a set of those el cheapo twice pipes on like I did on my first Z. You should have heard it two weeks later when the glass burned out of the "mufflers". I think you will get used to it, I did very quickly, now I won't have a Z without at least 2 1/4 or 2 1/2 pipe and a turbo muffler. BTW, if you want to hear something pretty loud, come and listen to my 280 with a straight 2 1/2 pipe with no muffler. Sounded oh so sweet at about 6500 rpm's under the bridge at Summit Point.

There is an article in the old Z CAR magazine where the author built up a short stroke motor and had a custom intake built for triple SU's. Nov 1997 issue. Of course it didn't hurt that his father-in-law owned a foundry so he made up wooden patterns and had a custom intake manifold built for the center carb.

On US models there is a round hood badge, a Datsun emblem on each front fender, a badge behind each 1/4 window and on the hatch it should have 2 badges. One says Datsun and one for the model. Some of the later 280's had a 5 speed emblem on the hatch instead of the model badge I believe. Not sure about cars other than the US spec cars, hope this is an answer to your question.

I don't think I've ever heard of anyone even wanting a 3:15 diff until now. I kinda doubt you could even get this one new anymore, most if not all r&p kits sold were lower and not higher. Sorry, but this one might be like trying to find the last surving member of an endangered species in the Amazon.:tapemouth

Well Dan, the quickest, easiest, and cheapest solution in your HP quest will be to unbolt your head from the L-24 and bolt it on to an L-28 short block.

I agree with Royce. If you have invested the money in the ZTherapy SU's you already have all the carb you will need. Triples would be just more money and then you would have to spend even more on engine mods to make them work as well as what you have. Just a second opinion.........

Well, I won't go into the Quaiffe issue. Got to www.zhome.com and look for a technical article there that goes into great detail on the Quaiffe diff. Their web-site I believe is www.quaiffeusa.com Yes, the R-200 is heavier since it has a larger ring and pinion hence the larger heavier case. Is an R-200 needed in an early Z-car? IMO, no, unless you are planning a V-8 swap in which case it will be a necessity since the R-180 won't hold up to the torque for long. An R-200 is not hard to put into a 240. You need the 280 moustache bar and lower transverse link. The bolt pattern is a little different on the moustache bar and the transverse link is curved to clear the larger diff. You will also need a front mount for an R-200, plus the flanges will have to be changed to mount up to the 240 halfshafts and driveshaft as I believe the flanges are not compatible. The early 280 5 speed has slightly different ratios than the later 280zx 5 speeds. Most people will agree that the later ratios are better. These are the non turbo 280zx transmissions not the later T-5 transmissions that came in the turbo's. I have the ratios here somewhere so that you can compare them but can't find the list. I believe the overdrive is higher in the zx trans. and there are slight differences in a couple other gears. I believe the zx trans has a lower 1st gear as well.

Only thing I see in March is the SoCal Dyno Day. ?????

Well Mike, I didn't do it. I purchased a friends race car and all his parts from his widow about a year and a half after the accident. He was going to rebuild the white 72 (in my garage pic) with all the stuff from the IT car and have a hot rod for the street. Unfortunately he never had the chance too, so when I saw his wife was selling all his Z's and parts instead of someone who never met Russ buying them I decided I would bring them home with me. That's why my garage got filled up so quick.:eek: And one of the reasons I haven't fixed the IT car and gone back racing is because it just wouldn't be as much fun as it used to be with the old gang there.

Well, fiberglass is more rigid but I think the urethane is a better choice. My 72 IT car went head on into an embankment at 70+ mph, totalled the front of the car, right front wheel came all the way back and hit the firewall under the fender and the air dam is still good. Lost a few paint chips but that's all.

I don't know why your insurance company won't allow you to put full coverage on your car. It seems to me they would jump at the chance to ream you for a higher premium when the book value of the car is going to be so low. Yes, I said that. Here's why. Insurance companies base their collision rating on the blue book value of the vehicle and they rate them according to the repair costs. The blue book value of a Z is going to be very low so they wouldn't have to pay out a large amount should the vehicle be totalled. Yet, the repair rating is going to be quite high so they would charge you a high premium since the age of the vehicle will make the parts replacement costs quite high. If you can't get your insurance company to give you a full coverage policy based on an agreed replacement value for your car I would suggest you start shopping for another insurance company. BTW, tell them that if they refuse, most companies don't want to lose a customer. An agreed upon value is one that you and the company agree is what the car is worth in the condition it is now as a replacement cost if the car is totalled or stolen. You might want to check into some of the collector car insurance companies since they all use an agreed upon value in basing their rates for full coverage insurance policy on older, restored cars. The company will probably want to see the car or have pictures of it or possibly have it appraised. Most of these type of insurance companies advertise in Hemmings (I had a couple written down but can't find the darn paper) so a little searching may find you what you need. Yes, you'll end up with higher premiums but at least your car will have the coverage you want.

I have been doing business with them almost as long as they have been in business. Man, think of all the Christmas goodies I could have had.

Well, now that the planets have aligned in cyberspace and the link works, all I can say is this. Why couldn't I have found one like this when I was racing! Guess I'll have to fix this 240 and go racing again so I can get one of these and be able to get in and out of the car without folding my legs up. :eek: Well, maybe not, but it sure would have been nice! They even have some decent looking wheels for acceptable prices.

I'll hit three topics here at once. Mike, the air dam on guy geo's car is available from MSA, it's their urethane air dam. I'd imagine it's pretty much a standard urethane air dam you could get from VB, MSA and a few others. Not sure who makes it though. I think I should know this one, I have two and one very similar on my 280. meakin, I'm not sure but this web-site has an air dam that looks a lot like Jan's does except the turn signals are in a different location. Take a look at www.lightman.co.uk/mjp/ Perhaps he has sold the air dam or is making it for sale? The MSA air dam is different from Jans in that it has a much more pronounced bumper detail, looks like a 280 bumper molded in. Also the one on Jans car has more of a lip at the very bottom. I love the way the turn signals are built into his and curve wrap around the side, one like this would probably be a big seller here. Dan, Thanks, I was just wondering if you had used the side skirts mainly. I have been thinking about putting a set on my 71 when it is done and was just wondering how they attached and how they fit. Hope someone has a set and can tell me if they are a pain to install or not.

Well, there are a couple things you could check before you R&R the rack. 1. Have you double checked your tires? Balancing, out of round, flat spotted? If you have the same size all around try swapping them front to rear. 2. Have you replaced the steering shaft coupler? Is it tight? 3. Is there a lot of play in the rack itself? Try jacking the front up and while rocking the steering back and forth check for play at the rack and pinion itself. 4. This is a long shot but it's a possibility nonetheless. Have you checked your brake rotors and calipers? Is it possible one rotor may be warped a little? Or a piston is seizing in the caliper? 5. I'm assuming you have done this already but were the rack bushings replaced with the urethane ones? If all this fails it may be the inner tie rod ends at the rack. Just giving you some more ideas.

Dan, did you get the whole kit or just the front air dam. I was just wondering how the rest of it fit. The side skirts and rear bumper cover might be something I'd like to put on a car but am just wondering if you had it and how it fit.

I have used a couple of the carpet kits from MSA and have been pleased with how they look. Most anyone who sells Z parts has a carpet kit, and they are all priced competetively. I'm not very good with carpet so I didn't do a custom job myself.

I think MSA still has one, or you could use one like the one I got from Pegasus racing parts. It's a bit smaller and a little thicker plastic. Their web-site is www.pegasusautoracing.com. I believe Summit Racing also sells a round catch tank too. The one from MSA I have is a bit bigger and it is rectangular and as yet I haven't put it in the car so I don't know how it will fit.

Sorry Dan, the link doesn't work.

Sounds like a good idea to me. Can you tell the rest of us where you found this kit?? Will the hub work with other style steering wheels or is this made for just the one wheel? Might be a lot of people interested in something like this so if you can post a link or the company that makes it that would be great.

Dan, did I understand that the bumper cover/air dam is all fiberglass? I thought it was urethane all this time. Hmm. May have to re-think the idea I had for my one car. I had one fiberglass air dam an didn't like it since it only took a low curb to crack it. Guess I didn't read the description too well in the MSA catalog.

Simply put?? NO. The ECU, ICU and Air Flow Meter are only for fuel injected cars, so the only thing you might possibly use would be the distributor. Lot to pay for parts you can't use. :eek:

With the proper offset a 16x7 will work, tire size will also play a factor though in how much clearance you have. I would recommend taking the car to a good tire and wheel shop and having it measured for the offset before you sink money into rims and tires. There is a gauge that can be used to measure the clearance inside the wheel well to determine how much offset you will need to help you decide on the tire and rim sizes so that you won't have any rubbing.

The only one that works is the 4x4.50, the 4x100 is the Honda pattern. Of course, we already know how that one works. The only other thing you would need to find out is the offset, with a 15x7 you would need a zero offset or close to that to fit without any worries of rubbing. A 14x6 could use a little more offset but not too much or you may rub the fenders, especially if you lower the car at all. I have always tried to go with zero offset whenever possible.

If he's using the air dam I'm thinking about you have to use the 280 turn signals in the grill. I believe the cover is made so that you can remove the bumper. It's not quite as good looking as the one on the red car on the main page(if Zlishous ever finds the URL so we can look at it) but it isn't a bad looking alternative.