2ManyZs

Since I'm not too familiar with the Zx engines I'll give you an idea at what you are trying to accomplish. I believe the zx motors were around 8-8.5:1 stock. So you would probably be looking at a different set of pistons at the very least. You might need to shave the head a little (then shim the cam towers) to reach 10:1. Try looking at the Datsun Garage in the links section for more info, I'm just giving you a guess. 10:1 would run OK on pump gas, as long as it's premium. I doubt you could use any grade less. Any more compression than 10:1 and you would likely have to use some sort of additive.

I know what it is like, the winters that is. I was born and raised in Massena, NY. Back in those days the winters were a lot worse than what they are now!!

Reminds me of the Hillborn fuel injection systems you used to see on the top fuel cars in the late 60's. Or were they Enderle? Whichever, looks pretty cool. I'd like to know what is lurking under that valve cover, or does it just look huge due to the camera angle??

Yes, it's possible the valve seals have become hard and brittle, sitting for a long time like that. My one car sat for over 4 years without being started and is OK. They may have been going bad before he parked it. Yes, definately check the clutch as they have a habit of rusting to the flywheel. You probably ought to check the brake master cylinder depending on what kind of fluid he was using. Most racing type fluids draw moisture and will ruin the seals in the master cylinder in no time. Also, you might want to take a good look at the wheel cylinders in the rear and the front calipers for leaks. While you are under there you probably should check out the u-joints, I have seen them freeze up if the car sat for a while. By the way. Snow?? c'est la merde!!

As far as the timing chain kit, yes, it is a bit expensive. But in the long run it is probably worth the extra money now to do everything right. As long as you are going to pull the front cover to do the timing chain and tensioner you may as well change the gears and the seals and gaskets to save you from having to do part of the job later. It is not a hard job, just a little time consuming. No sense working on something twice if you can do it all the first time, right? As far as the valve seals are concerned, are you sure that is the problem? It could be just a set of rings that are starting to show their wear. If the valve seals are shot, it will smoke when you first start it up after it has sat for a while. I believe it is possible to change the seals with the head still on the car if the right spring compressor is used, I don't know for sure as everytime I have messed around with the valves the head has been off the car. You might want to run a compression check just to double check the ring condition and the valve seats, a leak down test should show what the problem since you will be pressurizing it with an air hose, if you hear air leaking into the intake it's the valves, if it leaks into the crankcase, you got ring problems. Just a couple ideas before you get too involved.

I have one question. I notice the side marker lamps are not original, but look like they are flush mounted. What are they from? They look good, I've often thought about putting on a set of flush mounts and how they would look. OK, another question. Are you missing the c-pillar emblem on the drivers side or are these pictures taken at different times? I noticed there is one on the passengers side, just wondering if the first pictures you posted were done before you had finished the car off. Is it my imagination or the color of the car? Did you mold in the headlight buckets? In the one pic it looks like there is no seam there. I'm not picking on your car, it does look great, I'm just curious.

You have either been reading my posts, or my mind. I have yet to see one done, and I can't understand why. It's one of the most logical swaps in my opinion. I just replied to the twin turbo L-28 thread with the same question. Perhaps the one reason it isn't being done is the cost of getting the engine from a wrecking yard. I would imagine they would bring a premium price, that is if you can find one. I don't remember even seeing a non-turbo swap done. That would be the cheapest route to go, with an acceptable gain in hp. I believe the non-turbo's were in the 225 range. The normally aspirated engines would probably much easier and much cheaper to find. I'd like to see one that has the 300zx brakes, and engine.

I have heard of Cartch, just didn't know they ever did a Datsun kit. I know they are into Mustangs etc. and they got to be quite popular in the 80's when turbo's were all the rage. One reason we don't all have this is money! I have a feeling this would be an expensive kit, twin turbo's and all. Might even end up doing some piston and bottom end mods to keep it together with the boost that would be needed to put out 350 hp. I'd just like to find a ZX turbo with all the parts in a junkyard somewhere, that would a good step up. Never heard of Janspeed, but if they only advertise 175 hp that isn't really much of a boost. I'd still like to see somebody do a late model 300zx twin turbo swap. I think that would be just about perfect, plenty of power in a nice little package. Might take a lot of work to wire all the electronics in, but then, isn't that why some people put carpeting in their garages?? !

Great job! The engine polishing and detailing looks great. The wheels are an exact look-a-like for the American Racing Type 23's I've been telling Mike about, although I don't remember the "Modern" brand name. Judging by where you live I'd say the biggest bumpers in the world would be a good choice. If it was a "weekend warrior" and going to spend it's life mostly parked in the garage the fiberglass ones from MSA would look good, they would be almost as strong as the stock bumpers!

You could try the "Quick Shifter" kit from Motorsport. It is designed to reduce the shifter throws. I think on the ZX trans it says it reduces the throws by 30% or so, it is expensive, but it may give you what you want. I don't have much experience with the ZX shifters so someone else may have an easier fix.

Thanks, I wish I could take credit for the picture itself, a couple of professional photographers come to all the raqces and take pictures while you are racing. Then they send you the proofs and you can buy the pics from them after you see how good they are. I believe this one was done by Roz Rosintoski. It didn't come through the scanner as well as I had hoped, one of these days I'll go all high-tech, maybe.

I've heard for years I have too d--n many Z's so I thought it fit. I do not know what is available from Nissan as far as body parts go. I do know there are a lot of panels that are no longer available from them or anyone. The strut towers, inner front fenders, radiator core support, I believe the rear panel(the one the taillights mount to) that is just a start. Most aftermarket suppliers such as Motorsport Auto(www.zcarparts.com) have replacement panels for floors and fenders but the main chassis parts are what is the problem. Wish I could be more help, and good luck.

One more try.

Well, I got one of two in Mike. I think I forgot to re-format the pic of the 280. I'll work on that when I get back from Philadelphia(ugh) later today. The 240 pic I re-formatted but I think I comprssed the file down too much trying to post it before so maybe I can get a little better one in later. Thanks for helping us "wannabe's" out!!

Oh, it's your car. Wow, all I can say is good luck putting that much in a small space! You'll have to post a pic of that when you get it in there. Good luck, got a "fender stretcher"??

Bought this car in 1987, still have it. I started racing it in ITS at Summit Point in 1989 and retired the car in 1994. Shamefully it doesn't look this good anymore. Has the Ground Control suspension, a stock ATK crate motor and the required safety equipment. No, I never won a race, best was 6th place in a race in 95+ degree weather when all the 240 drivers were smart enough to stay home. Still was a lot of fun all the same, just too darn expensive for a toy.

I think about the only difference in the doors is the 280 doors had the side guard door beam. They are probably about 10 lbs. heavier, its a flat plate of steel welded across the outer door frame. You can identify it by looking at the pinch weld on the rear of the door, it will have about a 4 or 5 inch wide raised "hump" where the beam was welded in. You'll need the taillight panel for a 240 or early 260, 280 taillights had the separate back up light.

Paul, You definately do good work, the car looks very sharp. I would imagine it looks even better in person. I like how you put the spoiler on the back, the kits I've seen don't have one on them, the one I'm talking about has a very small one molded into the fiberglass cap. You make me want to try one on my own. That being said, you do very good body work but a 472 Cadillac?? Now that sounds like a lot of work! It will be interesting to see if there is room for that. Sounds a bit too big not to mention heavy but hey, it's his car right??

If you are buying that good looking red Z I don't think you have to worry about too much except basic maintenance such as you described. The body sure looks good, if the underside of the car is as good as the outside I'd say you have it made. Hey, that site was in French! Good thing I took French in high school, about 25 years ago!! Of course I never could speak it like what is spoken in Quebec, I learned proper French with no slang. Kinda like learning Latin in school, how many people still speak it eh??

Wow, only 120 ever?? Welcome to the club. You are probably the first from your country. I have one question. Do you have access to parts there? If only 120 were imported I don't think it will be to easy to find a parts car. There are many parts suppliers here in the states, and many of the people here have parts to sell. Here's my advice. Before you buy check on the availability of parts, either used or aftermarket. Most of the rust can be fixed with repair panels except for the inner front fenders and strut towers and the radiator core support. Check under the battery tray, the floors, the inner front fender behind the struts, and inside the hatch above the taillights. The floors are prone to rust as are the front frame rails. These can be fixed if you are good at metalworking or know someone who is. I would say if you can get the parts almost any car is worth fixing, especially if the cars are that rare.

I don't know if they ever gave an interval that the timing chain and tensioner should be changed. I always thought about 50,000 miles would be a good time to replace it, not so much for the chain or gears but the tensioner. The wear pad on the tensioner takes quite a lot of wear, but since you will probably have your head off to do your valves if I were you I would replace it now. It may never have been replaced before so at least you know it is done and can go from there.

Don't feel bad 240z I've been trying for a week to post a pic and no matter what I do I can't get the resolution down small enough. I guess that's what I get for using a scanner, one of these days I'll have all these high tech gadgets for my computer, just before they are all outdated!!

kmack, your question first. I have had no problems running 14x7 or 15x7 with zero offset. You might be able to get a way with a little more but it would be cutting it close. I have seen some wheels rub the ball joint with 14x7 zero offset, but that seems to be the brand or wheel ( something about the shoulder of the rim), I have a pile of rims here that are 14x7 zero offset and have run 205/60-14's and now they are making 225/50-14's and they will fit. If you go to 15's be careful with more negative offset, you will get close to the spring. Mike, I don't know why Panasports are so expensive but compared to some other brands (Revolutions, Monoquoque to name a couple) their prices are right in line. They are a light wheel for sure, and they are just about as strong as anything out there. They have a lighter wheel for racing too. I got my 15x7's for around 250 ea. so compared to some of the others they really aren't expensive when compared to the rest. The Minilites look just like them, but I haven't seen the prices on them in a while. I've seen some of the billet wheels go for a lot more, and some of them are just plain strange looking.

I don't remember seeing one done, but I guess it could be. But you would have to do some chassis reinforcement, same as the convertible kits do. You would be taking out a lot of the structural integrity of the car taking that big a chunk out of the roof. The 240's were made of rather thin sheetmetal to begin with, that's why so many have rusted into oblivion. If you want to look at the convertible kit, go to www.reactionresearch.com then click on automotive and look for the Z Spyder. The have a chassis reinforcement kit in the price list.

Eastwood is a company that specializes in tools and supplies for automotive restoration. They have a good selection of paint, supplies, tools you name it. I can't go on their web-site anymore without buying something. Check it out at www.eastwoodcompany.com