2ManyZs

The only reason I can think of that the bolt is so long is that it probably passes thru the water passage inside the block. Would it be difficult to remove, darn right, if it broke of that deep it will be. Should you remove it? It's possible at some time it will deteriorate to the point it could pose a problem. As far as drilling and tapping the outer section I suppose you could just to make sure you are applying some pressure to the pump. I think I would just use some good sealant for now, if it gives you problems then try something else. Somewhere in the future you may need to do some block work so then you might be able to have a machine shop drill out the broken bolt. I don't think I would try this myself, no sense in doing it without the right tools. And no the block is cast iron, so it wouldn't be as easy to mess up as an aluminum block, so for now I think I would leave it as it is. Just my suggestion.

About the only place I can think of for a rebuild kit would be Courtesy Nissan or try your local Nissan dealer. I don't think any of the aftermarket parts suppliers have kits, individual parts maybe, but most times they sell rebuilt transmissions. Although I think most have discontinued that. Or you could try your local or closest Z car club. Someone there may know of a place, or someone here may know.

Let's see, I believe the center bearing section is steel. Any time steel and aluminum are in contact the aluminum will corrode. I have seen wheels on tractor trailers become almost welded together because they had an aluminum wheel against a steel wheel. But that doesn't explain why the bellhousing would be so hard to separate does it, hmm, perhaps they used JB Weld as a gasket sealant?? I have gone through 3 or 4 stiff putty knives, but they always have done the trick, but it is hard on the knuckles if you have bad aim!!

I don't know what your laws are concerning removing smog equipment on older model cars, but if you can do it by all means start taking it off. That is usually one of the first things that gets done to a Z, just take it off and take out the nipples for the hoses and get an assortment of NPT pipe plugs and plug them up. Not only will this gain you an easy 5hp or maybe a slight bit more, it will make your car a whole lot easier to tune correctly. There should be more than one thread under engine systems that will tell you anything you need to know about de-smogging your Z. Have fun!

I do hope his will come apart a little easier. I know they can be stubborn but I don't think I've seen one that stubborn!!:eek:

I saw a 2000 roadster on ebay last week under Datsun other models, somebody was trying to stuff an LS1 with a six speed in it. He was doing a really nasty hack job on the car trying to make it fit. That would fit in a Z-car quite easily if ya'll are interested. It might be worth the price of the roadster to get the running gear.

Actually, I think I'm just going to get Z Therapy's carbs and maybe a polished intake for my 71, that way I know they are done right. Besides, I have a couple sets here I can trade in or practice on later. After looking at the pics of Marty Rogan's car I doubt if my work would look as good as theirs.:mad:

Guess I better get their video. I would have learned something. Glad all of mine are 4 screw, I won't mess up anything. Yeah, right.

I have a pair from a 72, they are complete, they just need some cleaning. You want to talk about some kind of trade for the swaybar? You will need the taillight gaskets as I think these pretty much feel to pieces when I removed them though. Send me a private message if you are interested in a trade.

I don't believe there is any difference in the carbs internally. One is just as good as the other. Why did they change from 3 to 4? Good question. Maybe no reason other than someone thought 4 screws would prevent it from being warped due to overtightening, I don't think I've ever seen a reason for it in print.

Sorry, forgot about that one. Yes, it just pulls off. Just be careful that you don't twist it, it sometimes can be tough to pull off as rust sometimes forms under it at the weld joint it is covering. I usually use a putty knife, once you get a small section up use the putty knife to pull it up. I have had some cars where you could pull it off with no problem so if it hasn't been off for a while just take your time. When you put it back on you can just use a small rubber hammer to tap it down.

The trim around the windshield and rear window does pull out quite easily, but you have to be careful not to bend it. It is also a major PITA to put back in. :mad: Especially if you put new gaskets in, not so bad when you leave the old gaskets in because they have more flex but the old gaskets may tear. You will have to decide on that. I would do the quarter windows and door window frame as they are, unless you are taking out the quarter windows to replace the gaskets.

I found an old Tweeks catalog in my drawer yesterday. They had the books from Road and Track and also Car and Driver that were old road tests of all Z models. Now for the bad news, I checked their web-site, www.tweeks.com, and it seems they are only into Porsche parts now. They used to be in Indianapolis but they are now in Effingham, Illinois. I guess you could e-mail them to find out if they are still in the Z parts business, I think this catalog is at least 5 years old if not older. Just in case, the numbers for the books were: BK110048 for the Car and Driver BK 101501 for the Road and Track. 70-83 BK 115526 for the Road and Track 84-89 So since this is only up to 89 it's likely this catalog is 10 years old. At one time they had as many parts as MSA, shame they changed over to that "other" brand!

If you are running the 280 electronic ignition it is possible it is the ignition control unit in the distributor, I had a 200SX that did the same thing, when it was cold it ran fine, then it just quit until it had cooled down. It was the ICU in the distributor, and they are not cheap, that is why a lot of people converted over to the GM HEI unit. Just another thought....Since you say you have an L28 in it you might check to see if it still has the electronic distributor in it as well.

Max, Look in the web-links for Too Intense Restorations, they have they taillights and the front clear lenses. Strictlyz has taillights for 260-280, you might check to see if they have the 240 taillights.

Check out the web links, I think I saw them perhaps on strictlyz or zparts.com, I know I have seen them advertised somewhere besides MSA. Try Victoria British and Tweeks, I'm kinda surprised MSA didn't have them, are they just out of stock or no longer available, I was planning on getting a pair when I finish painting my car.

If it leaks, well, you'll just have to do it again. I usually just use blue RTV silicone to help seal it up, don't use too much as you don't want any pieces of that floating around in there, just put some on your finger and give it a light coating, it shouldn't leak.

Whatever it is he isn't getting it over the counter!!

Take a look at their web-site. www.eastwoodcompany.com They've got different models(hp ratings) and all the accesories you need to do your own. If you buy their kit, they send a video to show you how it's done. Like I said, I've got the kit, just haven't got my car to the point where I can have some fun with it. Once I get the car painted then I can start polishing the aluminum. The have buffers you can use with drills etc. too so you don't really have to buy the kit with the stand an all. Hopefully one of these days I'm going to get the time to actually use everything I have bought from them, although I have used the blasting cabinet a lot. If you like working on cars and like having the tools to do it, they probably have it.

For a lot less than what he's asking you could buy a complete buffing outfit from Eastwoods and do your own! Then you could do other people's parts and make enough money to pay for the kit and the rest is pocket money!! I've got one I haven't had a chance to use yet, I wonder how much I could charge??

If you are trying to separate the bellhousing or the rear tail section it should come apart if you use a hard rubber mallet to "persuade them". If that still does not work you could try using a stiff ( the stiffer the better) putty knife and tap it into the crease between the cases, they may have gotten corroded over time and that will make it more difficult than one with a newer gasket or silicone. Try not to use a chisel if possible as this will probably gouge the cases, that's why I have a very stiff 1 1/2 inch wide putty knife, besides the blade is thin enough to cut into whatever is holding them together without trying to separate it all at once, just keep using it every couple of inches around the whole case and it should come loose.

I agree with John, even though I never heard the myth of the "secret high horse intakes" when I was racing in ITS. Maybe because it was just a lot of BS. I doubt you could find much difference in the manifolds without doing a sectional cutaway and measuring them with a micrometer to begin with. They are all basically the same design, with very minor modifications during the course of the L series engines. I also believe that a good port matching does more for an L series motor than anything else you can do in an afternoon in the garage. Although I will say this, I have read that Extrude Honing may not be the best thing on a Z motor as the intakes need some of the roughness to create a disturbance to properly mix the fuel and air mixture. I'm not sure but I think this may have been discussed on the Datsun Garage web-site. I believe it has something to do with the short intake runner length. A slight smoothing of the roughness instead of a polishing is better. (?)

According to my 71 shop manual, it is 14-19 ft-lbs. Which isn't much, if you don't have a torque wrench that goes that low, just use a 3/8 wratchet until it's snug. For such a thin book, I'm surprised it was even listed.

You probably should also check the starter relay, as well as the fusible link at the starter. It is even possible it burned out the relay and the ignition switch I suppose. Depending on how long the starter ran it could have gotten the wiring hot enough to fry a couple things. I would start at the starter and work back the fuse panel and then to the switch. Sorry, can't tell you much more without seeing the car, in which case if you think something is questionable, replace it. Only then can you start ruling out possibilities.

I believe they are all the same. There should be a number and Japan cast into the manifold on number one and number six intake runner as mounted on the engine. Mounted on the engine it should be on top where it is easy to see. At least that's the way I think they all are here on US models.