2ManyZs

Mine has always been a 2 mile stretch of asphalt named Summit Point Raceway...:devious:

Hmm, poking around Bob Lentz's GT-2 car huh Bob? I was doing the same thing at Summit when they were pulling the tranny....wanted to get my hands on it, but they kept slapping my wrists....:devious: That's one car I have to keep my distance from, too much temptation....

I believe the smallest wheel you can use with the MM rear discs are 15 inch. You could e-mail MM and ask them, I'm sure they could tell you what was ordered by the previous owner if you still have the name of the person you bought the car from. http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/contact_us.php?PHPSESSID=9bf582c226aa4e44fec4e4d3b8948fc2

12mm x 1.25 conical seat lug nuts should be as close as your nearest Krage/PepBoys/ Napa store. Most stores will have them in packs of 4 on the shelf. I get mine at the local Advance Auto store with no trouble.

Strange the dealer couldn't help... I'd try Chloe at MidwestZ first, then someone like Malvern Racing, or perhaps even Nissan Competition.

OK, so did one of you guys here get it for 660 bucks?:cross-eye

Here's something you won't see too often for those extra points.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2466269849&category=33576

Aluminum slot in good shape for 100 bucks? Darn right that's a good deal. Even without tires they'd be worth that. The only slots that wouldn't be worth that would be chromed steel ones IMO.

Yeah, I remember seeing pics of a few in magazines that the owners polished the bodies on, which had a lot of swirl marks in them.:sick: Unfortunately, stainless is a lot tougher to polish than aluminum. I remember one that the owner had painted it in a nice Ferrari red. I like it a lot better painted... There's one here in the neighborhood, or at least he still had it a few years ago. I looked at it close up not long after he bought it and the body had taken on a really dull "patina". I remember thinking when I was looking it over, that those doors could cause a skull fracture on a tall person if they had one too many at the local "watering hole" and got in a hurry trying to get in it. If I remember right, the guy traded his almost new Porsche 928 for the Delorean.....Many years later I had a bit of a run-in with him at his father's truck dealership, and realized why he had done something like that...:stupid: :stupid: :stupid: he's one of "those", if it weren't for "daddy", he probably be managing at McDonalds........ :devious:

I was just curious.... out of all the pics in the Gallery we have of ZG's, ZL, 432's and Fairlady's, we don't seem to have many detailed pics of the interiors of cars with A/C. This one looks to have a unit that is bolted to the bottom of the dash under the glove box, with two controls on it near the console and two (?) vents across the face. I was thinking about the possiblities of this one having the 5 speed and 3:90 diff as well....hopefully it still has the original trans and diff in it. Makes me wish I had just one more bay in the garage to store it..:disappoin

Why not just go with a smaller pulley on the alternator to speed it up, I'd imagine there would be plenty of pulley options for a GM alternator.

It's funny how the DMC-12 and the new "stuff" from Cadillac all have the same chiseled, squared off corners..... hmmm??? As far as power goes, 130hp in a car that weighs 2712lbs isn't what I'd call a good power to weight ratio, after all, the 280's weighed almost the same with 40hp more, and everyone wants more in a 280 because they feel so much slower than the 240's. http://www.delorean-owners.org/legend/index.html The worst thing about the car is the stainless body, it's just plain dull, made especially worse if the owners didn't clean it properly. If it were in an accident, the body panels can and do crack and split. In fact, they used 2 or 3 different hoods when they were making them because the hoods kept cracking because the stainless doesn't lend itself to tooling like carbon steel does. Trying to repair those body panels would be a body shops worst nightmare....

If they see Guus' car, they'll want to do a story on it as well.... at least maybe this time they'd get the story right eh?

Don't remember there being a major defect in the car, other than the fact it was not well received in the showrooms because of the price, and the stainless steel body. That plus the fact it was powered by an anemic 2.8 V-6..... hardly what you would call a powerful sports car.....plus it was a bit ugly to boot.:devious:

Hmm, wonder how long it will be before Alan goes to see this car in person.... hope he brushes up on his Italian first. Hard to point out all the things that don't look right on this car if you can't speak da language. A "factory" car with what looks like Western "Turbine"wheels? :stupid: Not a even a very good reproduction......and weren't all the factory rally cars red, not orange?

Geez, that's and easy one... John DeLorean... his car company died when he was caught in a cocaine sting operation, trying to help finance his struggling company.

It's quite possible the noise isn't due to the valve setting, it's probably in the lash pads themselves. It's going to be difficult to check with the engine in the car, but look to see if the wear pattern on the rockers extends all the way to the end of the wear surface and beyond. It will probably be easier to check if you remove the rockers one at a time to check. If the engine were out and on a stand, you could verify it visually as you turn the engine over by hand. Here's an old thread that discussed the lash pads, and you'll find a pic I scanned that shows what I am talking about. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=6342&highlight=lash+pads

I think that's the same type as Rick has. Here's one that I like, at least for the price.... It also would take up less space in the shop and the price is about in line with the rest of them. They routinely list them on Ebay for about 100 bucks less than what is posted on the web-site too... http://www.toolsplus1.com/eztube.htm

Well, at least you were thinking ahead enough to ask before you put it all back together...... You can get urethane bumpstops from MSA and possibly from MidwestZ. They should last forever.....

Question 1. No, not on US (HLS) models, they didn't appear here as standard till sometime late in the 72 model year. Other markets did have rear sway bars during all the model years. Question 2. Yes, there is a stock bump stop in the upper spring perch or insulator. It's not a true rubber, and as such, has probably fallen out in pieces due to dry rot over the years.

The Datsun Dude (Andy Russell to those of us who know him) has a few NEW Factory Service Manuals listed on Ebay for those of you who still want one. He has 2-1970, 1-1972, and one 1973 manual listed right now. I have heard through the grapevine that some of the years are NLA from nearly all the suppliers who in the past have had access to them, so if you don't have one yet, this may be the time to put out the 75 bucks and get one.... http://cgi6.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewSellersOtherItems&userid=thedatsundude&include=0&since=-1&sort=3&rows=25

Pretty sure you're gonna need the earlier bumper to go with the early type mounts. Not only because the ends of the bumpers aren't the same, but also because the "plate" where the bumper bolts to the mounts are also quite different.

Alan, I was wondering about the A/C in the car as well. Is that the factory (or dealer installed) A/C that was offered in all the European or home market cars? I was just curious as the HLS cars had (if it was dealer installed) what looks like a totally different system under the dash. Didn't we recently have a discussion about the rear markers, and came to the conclusion the mounting holes were cut out of the quarters and not stamped into the quarters? Seems that would be such a simple mod to make it legal, and it would still look factory, making the marker lights a moot point.

Sounds like you have just about everything done. A 160 thermostat should make a noticeable difference, but, remember, the temperature rating is when the thermostat is fully open, and not necessarily what temp your engine will run. In other words, with a 160 thermostat, your engine could possibly run at 180 all the time in traffic, while a 180 thermostat would possibly run at nearly 200 in the same circumstances. I would definately try the 160 thermostat, and perhaps blocking the water to the intake before you do anything else. It may end the warm start problem and solve most of the issues you want to address. Or, just replace the water control valve (thermostat) at the back of the intake, as it could be that it is not cutting off the water supply at the correct temp and that is causing your semi-vapor lock.