2ManyZs

It depends on which type of gasket you are using. Rubber or cork and rubber gaskets are better without any sealant, as the sealant will cause them to "squeeze" out as you tighten them up. "Paper" type gaskets can benefit from a light coat of the Permatex Black sealant. Just a very light skim on the surface is all you need.

Sounds like someone has talked themselves into another project...:classic:

It's gotta be either in the ignition (distributor, if you used the same one on both motors), or in the fuel system since those are about the only things the two engines have in common that weren't changed.

If I were living where you do, I'd do the following, or at least most of them.... 1. Get the largest core radiator possible in your budget, 4 row would be best, but a 3 row is better than the stock 2 row. 2. Rebuild the fan clutch and make sure it's operating correctly. Look in our tech articles for a How To on that. 3. Use some Water Wetter from Redline in your coolant. 4. 180 degree thermostat, or, if possible, a 160 just for summer. 5. Flush the coolant on a regular basis and make sure the mixture is correct. 6. Make sure your timing is correct, if it's even 1 or 2 degree advanced it will contribute to overheating. 7. Block off the water line to the intake, or put a valve in the line so you can use it in the winter months. 8. Consider an electric pusher fan in front of the radiator, especially if you get into a lot of stop and go traffic. 9. Use the insulation on the fuel rail if none of the above helps the warm start condition. 10. You could add to the heat shield on the intake to more thoroughly cover the exhaust, and even add a heat resistant matte to the bottom of it(exhaust side).

Stock, tired engines probably won't go much more than 6-6.5K.. Newly built engines with new valve springs and a performance cam won't have any trouble up to 7-7.5K Go to 8K to often( if it will even go that high), you may be picking up pieces.... The shorter stroke of the L-24 will allow it to rev higher than the longer stroke of the L-28.

I don't know if the relays themselves would be the same, but I'm pretty sure all the 280 (75-78) have nearly the same things on the relay bracket under the dash. I know it was a bit of a confusing mess under there on the 75 I had....:cross-eye

Yep, there's an ignition relay. It's on the bracket under the dash on the passengers side, it should be just behind the bracket for the foot vent control. Not sure exactly which one it is other than what is shown in a crappy pic in the Hayned manual.

Craig, you've already got enough "toys" in your playroom.....

Can you imagine the damage if a drunken idiot were driving something like this???? Even SUV's wouldn't be safe.......:cross-eye http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2465384235&category=6729

Since it is pretty well trashed as it is, while at the boneyard, you might want to look at a non-turbo F-54 block out of a ZX. Getting the non turbo F-54 will get you a flat top piston motor with a little higher compression than the standard L28. Look for a motor with the P79 head.

I think if you check with Chloe at MidwestZ, she may still have them. She had them listed as a special on her home page not long ago, J bolts, nuts, flat washers, everything you'd need.

I knew you'd say that Kevin..... If I had room for it, I'd probably try bidding on it too, as long as it had a title.

Simple, get a small piece of rubber hose that fits over the bleeder nipple on the slave cylinder on the bellhousing, open the bleeder just a little, put the hose in a can and pump the clutch pedal. Keep adding fluid to the reservoir till it's fairly clean, then close up the bleeder till it's just barely open, pump the clutch pedal a couple times and close the bleeder. Closing the bleeder till it's just barely open will put some pressure in the line to force the fluid out with any air, or you can just do it by gravity. Close the bleeder, refill the reservoir and your done. Oh, if the screen in the bottom of the reservoir is really gunked up, you can pull it out with a pair of small needle nose pliers and clean it.

One thing about taking the top off a Z is that you know you have plenty of legroom! I had an MG once, plenty of legroom, but the damn doors were so small it was a PITA to get in and out of. I've always like TR-6's, "tried one on" and guess what, no legroom. Same with the Miata. Footbox is too small too..... The only one I'd like as much as a topless Z right now is the Honda S2000, but, the Z is paid for. If I do mine, it's not going to be a convertible, it'll be a roadster, no top. Not planning on driving it unless the weather is perfect anyways. 2-4-T-Z Man, I looked up your car, looks great to me, but how in the heck did you do the front bumper? Sectioned in the middle or cut on the ends? BTW, yours with the "hood ornament" like the one on the bottom right would have been perfect.:devious: :classic:

:sick: :tapemouth :sick: :tapemouth :sick: Take off half the overdone body mods and it might look OK. Not gonna sneak up on any 5.0's or Vettes with something like that. Half the reason for V-8 swaps is "stealth".....:devious:

IMO the lines of the Z's lends itself nicely to a "top-chop", it's a shame Nissan never made one themselves, they could have sold twice the number of Z's, especially in CA and FL. There's only one other car that I think looks as good with a top as without, and that's the 365 Ferrari Daytona. Personally, I like the looks of the Daytona better without a top than in coupe form, just like the Cobra.

Mark is correct, there were no 5 speeds in 240's offered in the US models, they weren't offered here in the US as an option until late 76 or 77. If you didn't bleed the master cylinder first before doing the rear cylinders and front calipers this may be where the air is trapped. You may be pulling too much vacuum trying to bleed the brakes, or, if the seals in the master cylinder are not in good condition, you may actually be pulling air into the master with that much vacuum. Try bleeding the master cylinder first, then do the wheels the old fashioned way by hand, and see if it improves, if you still get air, your master cylinder is probably shot. The seals will detiorate in a very short time if the brake fluid gets moisture in it while the car was sitting. Also, putting new O-rings on the caps might possibly help too.... The drain plug on the block is under the intake/exhaust manifold. I wouldn't bother trying to get it out, as it will likely be siezed, or at least nearly impossible to remove due to its position. If you thought the drain plug on the trans was tough, try removing the drain plug on the block:cross-eye

You better get all the rest you can now, cuz you're gonna need it when you get started putting it back together...:devious: Notice why the frame rails rust out from the inside out? It's the welded in plate that makes the C channel into a box section. The moisture gets in between that and the inner fender and there it goes.....

The easy part is removing it..... now comes the fun part (?):cross-eye Hmm, that ended up being more than I thought, with your earlier description I thought it was mostly just the frame rail.:surprised

I noticed the clock, but I also notice it has the vented C-pillars and no hatch vents. I too would like to see the VIN number.... There wouldn't be many in the US that's for sure. I personally know of only 2 in my general area over the years, and one of them wasn't in much better shape than this one(it was also auctioned off on Ebay about 2 years ago).

Yeah, I'd like to have one, but this one might be a little more of a project than I need right now. No job=no money:disappoin Plus I have 2 projects in the garage now.... 2 things scare me about this one, no title(?), and, if the rust under the battery tray is any indication of the underside..:cross-eye

I don't know that I would drive it with the shield missing, for the same reasons you stated. Sounds to me like he wasn't paying attention or got in a hurry to get the job done. Or, did he have someone else doing the work and he didn't check the work? Let us know how you like the 810/Maxima flywheel and if it makes a significant difference, there's a few of us that wants to do the same swap in the future.

Question asked and answered 2 days ago...... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=76985#post76985

Hardly looks worth trying to restore..... :disappoin http://cgi.aol.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2465110065&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:US:1