2ManyZs

Ah... sorry to hear that I think if I were him, I would have left you in the front with one girl and sat in the middle in the back. I thought you had tried to get 5 people in the back.... :devious:

And you would expect those 2 guys to complain in the backseat with 3 girls? Wouldn't really matter what the girls were wearing would it?:devious:

But I bet none of those 5 were enemies were they????

I looked through all the pics while I was approving them and I don't see any obvious problem. The inner control arm bushings look to be originals and not in the best of shape though.... The toe-in looks a bit off, but not too bad. I'd say changing the inner control arm bushings might be enough to fix it, but, at the same time, there still has to be a reason for it to be off. You could take the easy way out and replace the inner control arm bushings with the adjustable ones, which will should give you plenty of adjustment to put the toe-in where it should be and kill two birds with one stone, new bushings and fixing the toe problem. Plus you would gain a small amount of camber adjustment to boot..... Tough one to call....if it were mine, I think I'd go with the adjustable control arm bushings, perhaps also change the spindel pin bushings at the same time, replace the strut cartidges, check the stub axle bearings and everyting else whil eyou have it apart. Then put it on a frame machine when you have the time and money available just to be sure the chassis is not tweaked a little. Motorsport Auto still sells the adjustable bushings, so it is not a problem to get them.

10:1 shouldn't be too much trouble with the stock starter, however, you should upgrade the battery to the highest CCA you can get in a group 24 for those times it might decide to be ornery about starting. This could be part of Scott's trouble, the battery might be one of the lower CCA batteries and it's not supplying the amps needed... I'm not sure, but I think the ZX's had a slightly higher torque starter than the earlier cars. Someone else will have to jump in on that one...I'm not very well versed in what the ZX's had or didn't have. Higher torque aftermarket starters are available last I knew, but they would probably be pretty pricey...

Yup, the higher you go, the higher the cylinder pressures will be. Of course, no. of cylinders/cylinder volume plays and important part in it as well. In other words, a small bore engine with a high compression ratio won't be much harder to turn over than a large bore engine of the same number of cylinders with a lower ratio. That's why you'll see high torque or gear reduction starters used on big block V-8 engines that are running lower compression ratios than say, an L engine that is actually running a higher ratio. That's also why you'll see a 24 volt, gear reduction starter on a diesel engine too, as they run 16:1 compression and higher with very high cylinder pressures to ignite the fuel.

If the toe-in is causing odd tire wear on that side, I'd almost be tempted to take the car and have it put on a frame machine at a good body shop instead of wasting money on the alignment shop. The alignment shop is only going to tell you the alignment isn't right, and if nothing is visibly bent/broken/wrinkled on the underside of the chassis, the next place they will suggest is a chassis machine anyways. Since there is no adjustment (that is unless it has adjustable camber bushings) the only possible reason for the toe problem is that something such as the control arm is bent/or the chassis has been tweaked. If you have a digital camera, and can jack the car up far enough to take a good pic of the control arm mounting and rear control arm, most anyone one of us here can tell you whether or not there is a bent piece/wrinkle where it shouldn't be/ or other obvious problem.

I was thinking that for the cost of the airline ticket and your extra 300 you should almost have enough to have it shipped. The larger carriers only charge roughly $1000 bucks coast to coast, so from Reno to El Paso couldn't be much more than half that price. There's so many things that could happen, so many little things that could be wrong with the car, especially buying it sight unseen that this could be a trip you will regret taking. If you are set on making the trip, I'd make sure to have everything that has been mentioned, along with a couple extra cheap fuel filters, a can of brake fluid, and a container of the pre-mixed antifreeze along with a basic set of tools.

Here's a set of four just listed on Ebay that don't look too bad. Hard to tell their true condition in th epic though. http://cgi.aol.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2461108012&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:US:1

Tower Hobbies show a few GTR's and one KPGC in 1/18. Don't know if those are the only ones that Kyosho has ever made or not. Look on the third page. http://www.die-cast-models.com/listings/main_venkyo.html

Ewwww... it's yellewwww.... Just kiddin.....:devious: Not bad for the price, only thing that would have made me think twice is the sunroof. Better hang onto that 3 piece rear spoiler, that's one you can't find anymore.:disappoin So, how long before this one is upside down and in pieces?

I'd definately look into where the PO ran those wires from. I'm wondering if he could have got his power form one circuit and a ground from another such as the turn signal circuit which could be causing part of the problem, especially if there is a short or ground problem on one of those circuits.

I guess if you can try to sell an aircraft carrier on Ebay, you ought to try to sell a few planes they can shoot off the catapult too..... http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3078059896&category=4672 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3078910291 Wouldn't it be nice to find out where all this money is coming from and get a handful for ourselves?:devious: :tapemouth

Look at the bottom of this page on the SCCA web-site. It is one of the classes in amateur road racing that the Z cars were very competitive in up until just a couple years ago when they started allowing newer cars in to the class. Now they aren't dominating like they were, as some of the new cars are mid 90 model year cars with 4 wheel discs, and much stiffer unibodies. http://scca.org/amateur/club_racing/classes/index.html

Me? Hmm, I've had: 73 240-sold, raced, wrecked and junked 75 280 ITS-sold, being raced again by new owner 72 240-stripped for parts due to rust Still have: 71 240-workin on it slowly 72 240- ITS, wrecked, may be repaired 72 240- rusted out, probably will be stripped for parts for ITS car 74 260- wrecked, parts only 76 280- rusted out, bought for parts

And as I come across other threads I'll move them here so they will be all in one place so you guys can find them.

The Kyosho's are THE best when it comes to detail and quality that I've seen so far. But, beware of the last minute bidders....although this is the LHD model that has been discontinued. You can still get the yellow LHD model here, you'll have to go to the third page: http://www.die-cast-models.com/listings/main_venkyo.html I guess it's worth a bit more than the 60 dollars for the yellow model since there is only one of the two colors offered in the LHD, but how much more is up to the person bidding. Tower still has the rallye cars available as well.

My choice would be dependant on which 5 speed you are going to use. If it's the 280 speed with the shorter overdive, the 3:70 would be fine. If it's the ZX 5 speed, I'd choose the 3:90 if I had the choice. Reason? With the ZX trans, you will still be under the overall ratio you would have with the 4 speed and the 3:36, which will mean your highway RPM's will be lower than stock. With the ZX trans and the 3:70, your highway RPM's will be quite a bit lower than the stock set-up, and we all know the L engine doesn't have a lot of torque in the lower RPM's(under 3K), which would mean if you were to try a pass on a 2 lane road, you'd almost have to drop a gear to complete the pass safely or quickly. If you have both diffs, try one and see how it works, and you can always swap the LSD to the one that suits how you want the car to drive... Don't forget, the tire size you choose will also affect the ratio as well, so you will have to take that into account in your choice as well as which trans you are going to use.

I don't know where you are, but most any "quality" auto parts supplier should be able to source either pistons, rebuild kits or reman calipers for an 84, NAPA would be where I'd look first.

I don't see how zinc plating would stand up to the high temps for very long... Might be OK on a show car that never gets driven though.....:stupid:

My problem is a cheap camera....and it's too dark without the flash, yet way too bright with the flash in macro....:cross-eye

And, if you are going to blast it outside where you won't be able to recover and re-use the media, your best bet is to use plain old "play sand" you can get at most any hardware store or home improvement center like Lowe's. Just make sure it is dry and if it has any clumps in it, set it aside for a while to dry. Just be sure to put a tarp down if you want to try to re-use any of it and get a fine piece of screen to get rid of the rust/junk that you have already removed so it doesn't clog up your nozzle on the blaster.

All 69-78. Funny, the one who played "Cooter" on the Dukes lives not too far from me and has a big get together once a year I think it is, or maybe not that often. Silly me, "Daisy" was there the last time and I didn't go.... but then, she doesn't look quite like she did back then....:disappoin

Don't forget the Toyo Proxxes, they work well in the wet, and wear better than the Kumho's.

The Yat Ming die casts I've seen aren't as good as the Maisto I got, but the Maisto doesn't compare to the detail of the Kyosho, of course, for the price of one Kyosho you can buy 2 of the Maisto's.... The Yat Mings I've seen,when you open the door or hatch, the paint colors don't match. Try looking at Tower Hobbies site, they've got a great selection of die cast and plastic models. http://www.die-cast-models.com/ Check out their other hobby sites for plastic models. Now, the Fujimi kits are almost as hard to find as the 1/12 Tamiya kits. The 432R kit is one I haven't seen in a while either.:disappoin Seems most of the plastic kits you see are all ZG models anymore.