2ManyZs

If VB has it that cheap, Chloe can probably get it for close to 10 bucks.:devious:

If the light is connected to a sending unit that is as unpredictable as the ones that are used for the oil pressure on the early cars, it may just be a faulty sending unit. I don't know what type of sending units they used on the ZX's, but I doubt they are any more reliable than the early cars if it is an electric sending unit.

I could get you one, but you'd have to wait till the snow melts and the mud under the car dries up a little....:sick: :cross-eye Did you try Chloe to see if you can get a new one?

Easiest thing to do is to go to ZTherapy's web-site and click on 240Z under Products. The have a pic of the 3 different heat shields and which cars they came off. www.ztherapy.com

Yeah, I did.... It's supposed to be 6.5-8.7ft/lbs on the retainer flanges(the outer bolts) that hold the seal flange. The center bolt in the middle of the side flange is the one that gets 13.7-18.8ft/lbs, the same as the rear cover bolts. Don't ask me where Haynes got the 50ft/lbs from, when they list the center bolt for the 260 at 30ft/lbs.

If you can give me a day or two to look through the attic in the garage, I think I may have a couple 3 row rads out of the 280 I raced. They would need to be cleaned (rodded out) though, as I took them out because they weren't flowing very well. I've also got a N42 head on a running engine, but the shipping would be kinda steep......I know it cost 65 to ship a diff from OK to me, so a complete head isn't going to be much cheaper from here to TX. And yes, the 280 core is taller and just a tad wider than a 240 rad...

I'd have to buy another car to need it....:cross-eye Already have the exhaust for both cars that I have.:devious:

Hey Guus, now I can see why so many of these models are so hard to find... you've got them all..... All I can say is that is one serious collection you have, and yes, I'm a bit jealous of it. St. Stephen and I have recently started watching the kits on Ebay, and I only wish I had the money to spare to pick up a few of them. I've just started a small die cast collection (I'm too lazy to put together a model) so that I can have more spare time to work on the real car in the garage. Here's my first one, it's a Maisto 1/18 I picked up on Ebay a while back. Thought it was a BRE style replica when I bid on it, then found it's really a Ralley car model. Oh well, I'm waiting on a pair of Kyosho 1/18 die casts to be delivered, one is the orange 432R...probably as close as I'll ever get to one.:disappoin

Guess I've had a Z too long, cuz the ones that would apply to me is a long list....:cross-eye 8, 9, 18, 22, 27, 28, 32, 35, 39, 45, 51, 59, 65, 77, 82, 88, 91, 97, 100, 105......

I can't seem to find a good pic or diagram right off, but it's pretty easy. When you pull the cam cover, look down in front of the cam gear, and you'll see how the cam chain comes up out of the front cover, thru the head, and passes over the cam gear. What you want to do, is to put the wedge down in front of the cam gear, and wedge it in between the two sides of the chain and force it outwards against the front cover to hold it in place. This will push both sides of the chain outwards, and will push back on the tensioner, which will give you some slack in the chain and allow you to take the cam gear off, while at the same time, holding the chain tension on the crank gear. This is just my opinion, but since the correct tool is cheap, I'd use it instead of a piece of wood which can and will splinter sooner or later and can drop pieces of wood into the pan. I'd rather spend 12 bucks than have a piece of wood that may or may not be cut correctly and either slip (which means you end up pulling the front cover to re-install the chain on the tensioner) or splinter and clog up an oil gallery. Also, if you don't cut the wood correctly, it can end up wedging the chain outwards against the bottom of the head, which will make it hard to pull the head. It needs to slide down between the chain, yet not wedge it until it is below the bottom of the head.

There are three temp sensors for coolant. One is for the temp gauge. The thermotime and coolant temp switch work to signal the ECU to either richen or lean out the mixture by changing the lenght of time the pulse is to the injectors. They also control the cold start valve ( or injector) in the front of the manifold that is in all actuality the same as a choke to richen the mixture on a cold start.

Carb tuning is probably your biggest issue. Once you have them rebuilt/repaired and properly tuned, if you still have the problem, you should probably investigate the tune up, timing, plug choice. You won't be able to tell anything if you have any leaks in the carbs like you describe. Best thing to do is get a rebuild kit from ZTherapy or if you can afford them, send them in as cores for their rebuilt carbs.

Ya know Steve, I was looking at those Inertia Advantage wheels that Bassett has. They'd make a good wheel on a race car don't ya think? Only 20lbs for a 15x10 and they are cheap compared to an alloy wheel...... Let's see, Z32 brakes and hubs on the bottom of a 280 strut..... What's the bolt circle on the 5 lug Z32's anyways? Might have to do some work to get them to a 5x5 lug pattern:ermm:

People have been using locked or welded rears (usually welded as it's dirt cheap) in road racing for years, and many continue to do so. I ran one for 4 years because I didn't have the budget for an LSD at the time, and the car is still racing with the same rear today. They are not good in the wet, but on dry pavement, you can tune the suspension to compensate, although, it's a lot easier if you have adjustable coil-overs. Softer bar in front, or a stiffer bar in the rear can compensate for the push somewhat, but changing the spring rates will do as much if not more to compensate. Usually softer in the front and stiffer in the rear. Since most people can't do these adjustments on a street car, you will be better off with an open diff until you can purchase either an LSD or a Quaiffe unit. If I were you Gav, I'd see if I could find a used open diff and just swap the ring and pinion.

Adding an oil cooler isn't going to cure an overheating problem, you'll first need to address what is causing it to overheat in the first place. You've got a good start on it, but, you should check the water pump belt, water pump itself, and then the radiator before you spend money on something that will not help your problem. Also, make sure your radiator cap is working properly. Having someone do a pressure test of the radiator would also be a good idea. A good flush of the entire cooling system could be all that's needed, and you ought to consider doing this first as it will be the least expensive item that could make a major difference. Timing that is too far advanced can also lead to running hot as well.

I think there is a thread in the Tech Articles on how to swap for a 280 or ZX internally regulated alternator. I think you'll find some posts on the GM alternator swap over on www.hybridz.org If I remember right, I read some posts over there that weren't to happy with the GM conversion though.....

For the money they are hard to beat... Yes, they are a bit heavy, but, so are the older mag wheels compared to whats on the market today. Wonder if you could use a trim ring like what was on the Chevy Ralley wheels to dress them up, and powder coat the center a nice dark color to offset the trim ring or argent like the Ralley wheels.... Might not look too bad if the car is a dark color. For the price of 4 of these, you'd only get one Panasport in 15x7....:disappoin Make a good investment, if someday you have some money to throw out for a set of Pana's or Watanabe's, you could always sell these to a racer or auto-Xer.... A set of 15x10's would be nice if I ever get to do anything with my second car.....:devious:

Bottom... and yes, without the whale tail. Put a smaller spoiler on the bottom one, and perhaps shave the side marker (if it's legal where you live) and that would be just right.... Shame the 3 piece rear spoiler is so hard to find nowadays, I always liked that one...:disappoin Wonder why it's NLA?

I don't know exactly what the larger (44mm and up) Mikuni's will flow, but seems to me they should flow almost as much if not more than the SU. But, like was previously stated, the intake manifold would have to be well engineered to distribute evenly to all three cylinders, or you would end up with lean cylinders such as the problems associated with the 4 barrel swap seems to have. Might be an interesting mod, but the R&D on the intake might be a bit excessive, you might end up having to fab an intake out of sheetmetal and do a lot of dyno and flow testing.

3. late 71 production, with many of the cars being titled as 72. 4. Rust, but previous owners would be a close second.... :cross-eye

Nice, but a bit overdone IMO..... take the blower off and put a hood on it and it would be a lot more interesting....

Could be a lot of things....:cross-eye I'd check the distributor first, check the mechanical advance plates to see if they move freely, or if any of the little "bearings" are not where they ought to be. Check all the vacuum lines, can check to see if the vacuum advance on the distributor is working. Check the rubber boots between the air cleaner and AFM as well as the boot from the AFM to the throttle body. But, before you do all this, I'd check the timing and the condition of the cap/rotor first. You might also want to check the plugs and plug wires as well. I'm thinking it may be a timing/advance problem but you never know..... If none of the above work, let us know and we'll come up with some of the less obvious things that could cause these symptoms....