2ManyZs

I know that some people have just used a wire wheel on a grinder, but that does make a mess. You could try those Sotch-Brite wheels on a grinder as well. It's either a mess with acetone or some other thinner such as laquer thinner, or a dusty mess with a grinder, or the putty knife. There's really no easy, no-mess solution.

Here's one that still has the flat tops.... the rest of the car doesn't look so good either... :disappoin http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2459387673&category=6187 I don't know if I'm correct in my "arse-umption" here, but I think the early 260's with the small 73 type bumpers may have all had the orange air cleaners that were the same as the 73 air cleaners. Perhaps the air cleaner color changed when they put the large 280 style bumpers on. Notice, this car has the late bumpers and a "blue-ish" air cleaner.

Tell ya what Dave, I've got a couple complete L-24's sitting here with E-88 heads if you want to trade that L-28....:devious: I know one is in pretty good shape as it came out of a daily driver a few years ago. I'll even let ya keep the E-31 head since I've already got enough of them.

The first thing I would do is find another mechanic if you can't do it yourself. He's half right, there are simple repairs, just no simple ways to diagnose what you need to do. Throwing parts at it is more than likely only going to cost you more than you need to spend. If you don't have a Factory Service Manual to try the troubleshooting guide in it, try starting with the basics like tune-up, timing, perhaps having the coil and ignition control module on the distributor tested. Most of us here have limited experience with FI, and even fewer have Turbo FI experience. You might try posting the question over on another web-site such as www.300zxclub.com or www.zdriver.com in their 280ZX forums for a more informed opinion.

Well, yes and no.....:cross-eye I found this auction to be some interesting reading. This guy pretty much tells it like it is. It's a shame not everyone describes their car like this guy. Nice car too, even if it is an auto. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2459146881&category=6187 Then there's one bleow it listed as a 70, which, according to the VIN is an 11/70 build date. More than likely titled as a 71, but yet he lists it as a 70. So, is he trying to fool someone or just doesn't know any better?

As far as I know, the blue air cleaners are from 260's. All the air cleaners up to 73 were orange. If I'm not mistaken, the 260 air cleaners were the same color as the later 280 air cleaners, but perhaps it's a little different shade. I think I know which car you are referring to, isn't that the 73 with the round top carbs and a blue air cleaner being advertised as "all original"?

Take a look in this thread and you will find a PDF version of the troubleshooting manual. I haven't looked through it yet, but it should help you with some places to look to find your problem. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=73244#post73244 Sounds to me like your problem is probably in the thermotime switch, air or water temperature switch, or the cold start valve. In other words, you're not getting the fuel enrichment you need on cold start up.

The side marker lights on the front fenders and the rear quarters have a long pigtail on them, with simple bullet style connectors. These are a simple, just take the 2 screws out of the mounting frame, and pull the light out. The pigtail is long enough you can pull on both ends of the wire without worrying about pulling something loose that shouldn't be. The rest of the wiring harness is a little tougher to deal with, as you just have to be a little more careful when you try to pull the connectors apart. There's no reason to never tamper with a harness or the connectors, just be careful when you try to unplug the connectors.

Here's her vendor forum. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?forumid=88

I think just about anything VB or MSA can get, Chloe can get as well. And you can't beat her prices or her service.:classic: She can also get a lot of things very few places can supply anymore.

If VB has it that cheap, Chloe can probably get it for close to 10 bucks.:devious:

If the light is connected to a sending unit that is as unpredictable as the ones that are used for the oil pressure on the early cars, it may just be a faulty sending unit. I don't know what type of sending units they used on the ZX's, but I doubt they are any more reliable than the early cars if it is an electric sending unit.

I could get you one, but you'd have to wait till the snow melts and the mud under the car dries up a little....:sick: :cross-eye Did you try Chloe to see if you can get a new one?

Easiest thing to do is to go to ZTherapy's web-site and click on 240Z under Products. The have a pic of the 3 different heat shields and which cars they came off. www.ztherapy.com

Yeah, I did.... It's supposed to be 6.5-8.7ft/lbs on the retainer flanges(the outer bolts) that hold the seal flange. The center bolt in the middle of the side flange is the one that gets 13.7-18.8ft/lbs, the same as the rear cover bolts. Don't ask me where Haynes got the 50ft/lbs from, when they list the center bolt for the 260 at 30ft/lbs.

If you can give me a day or two to look through the attic in the garage, I think I may have a couple 3 row rads out of the 280 I raced. They would need to be cleaned (rodded out) though, as I took them out because they weren't flowing very well. I've also got a N42 head on a running engine, but the shipping would be kinda steep......I know it cost 65 to ship a diff from OK to me, so a complete head isn't going to be much cheaper from here to TX. And yes, the 280 core is taller and just a tad wider than a 240 rad...

I'd have to buy another car to need it....:cross-eye Already have the exhaust for both cars that I have.:devious:

Hey Guus, now I can see why so many of these models are so hard to find... you've got them all..... All I can say is that is one serious collection you have, and yes, I'm a bit jealous of it. St. Stephen and I have recently started watching the kits on Ebay, and I only wish I had the money to spare to pick up a few of them. I've just started a small die cast collection (I'm too lazy to put together a model) so that I can have more spare time to work on the real car in the garage. Here's my first one, it's a Maisto 1/18 I picked up on Ebay a while back. Thought it was a BRE style replica when I bid on it, then found it's really a Ralley car model. Oh well, I'm waiting on a pair of Kyosho 1/18 die casts to be delivered, one is the orange 432R...probably as close as I'll ever get to one.:disappoin

Little Nancy was in the garden filling in a hole when her neighbor peered over the fence. Interested in what the cheeky-faced youngster was doing, he politely asked, "What are you up to there, Nancy?" "My goldfish died," replied Nancy tearfully, without looking up," and I've just buried him." The neighbor was concerned, "That's an awfully big hole for a goldfish, isn't it?" Nancy patted down the last heap of earth then replied, "That's because he's inside your damn cat."

Guess I've had a Z too long, cuz the ones that would apply to me is a long list....:cross-eye 8, 9, 18, 22, 27, 28, 32, 35, 39, 45, 51, 59, 65, 77, 82, 88, 91, 97, 100, 105......

I can't seem to find a good pic or diagram right off, but it's pretty easy. When you pull the cam cover, look down in front of the cam gear, and you'll see how the cam chain comes up out of the front cover, thru the head, and passes over the cam gear. What you want to do, is to put the wedge down in front of the cam gear, and wedge it in between the two sides of the chain and force it outwards against the front cover to hold it in place. This will push both sides of the chain outwards, and will push back on the tensioner, which will give you some slack in the chain and allow you to take the cam gear off, while at the same time, holding the chain tension on the crank gear. This is just my opinion, but since the correct tool is cheap, I'd use it instead of a piece of wood which can and will splinter sooner or later and can drop pieces of wood into the pan. I'd rather spend 12 bucks than have a piece of wood that may or may not be cut correctly and either slip (which means you end up pulling the front cover to re-install the chain on the tensioner) or splinter and clog up an oil gallery. Also, if you don't cut the wood correctly, it can end up wedging the chain outwards against the bottom of the head, which will make it hard to pull the head. It needs to slide down between the chain, yet not wedge it until it is below the bottom of the head.

There are three temp sensors for coolant. One is for the temp gauge. The thermotime and coolant temp switch work to signal the ECU to either richen or lean out the mixture by changing the lenght of time the pulse is to the injectors. They also control the cold start valve ( or injector) in the front of the manifold that is in all actuality the same as a choke to richen the mixture on a cold start.

Yup, does make ya wonder doesn't it? ROFL http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=3497

Carb tuning is probably your biggest issue. Once you have them rebuilt/repaired and properly tuned, if you still have the problem, you should probably investigate the tune up, timing, plug choice. You won't be able to tell anything if you have any leaks in the carbs like you describe. Best thing to do is get a rebuild kit from ZTherapy or if you can afford them, send them in as cores for their rebuilt carbs.