2ManyZs

As far as the inner fender area under the battery tray, you have only two choices. It's either gonna be fabricate one, or take one from a donor car. No one has ever offered a repair panel for this area either now or in the past.

If you block off the vacuum to the master vac, you'll need both feet on the brake pedal to stop. I mistakenly installed the check valve in backwards once... scared the you know what out of me when I came to the first stop sign.:cross-eye You can't just block off the vacuum and expect the brakes to work correctly, you'd need to use a totally different master cylinder designed for manual brakes, such as the Tilton master cylinders you see on race cars. Cost a bit to convert it, but, it's the only way to do it correctly. You need a master that will supply the proper line pressure to the brakes, the stock master only works due to the input of the master vac.

The best advice is to buy the car that has the least amount of rust. That's the biggest downfall in a project type of car, getting into the project and finding hidden rust issues that end up costing you time and piles of money to repair. If you aren't afraid of working on the car to personalize it to your tastes, buy the car that has the least amount of rust issues no matter what the price is. You'll be glad you did.

After watching a couple episodes of American Hot Rod, I now know one person I'd never work for... Coddington... geez, what a jerk. A guy I know used to work for him many years ago, now I know why he quit and came back home to VA. I don't know the whole story, but Boyd took all the credit for ZZTop's Cadzilla, which, according to what I've heard, he had very little if anything to do with the body design or hand crafting of the body on the car. I talked to the drivers who were pulling the car around the country and stopping at truck stops for small shows and they all remembered Craig (the guy who lives here) and told me to tell him that they were telling everyone who asked who the "real" person was that designed and built the body of the car. Boyd reminds me of a guy I worked for once for a very short time.. liked to remind people that he was the "king" and everyone else was easily replaceable.

The 67's are probably the only Vette I would consider owning if I had the money..... According to this listing on Pro-Teams web-site, most of the 67's are going for around 100K or less... this car either had something very special, or perhaps it was a misspring in the auction listing. The only reason I could think that would make it worth that much is if it were a GM show car or prototype. http://www.proteam-corvette.com/1967.html

Chloe is one of the few that still has them... the supply of them is drying up quickly....:disappoin Dtsnlvrs saw mine and wanted one, and luckily Chloe put on up on Ebay not long ago and he snapped it up quickly.

Geez James, you surprised me... you almost look "normal".... for a old Kiwi..... Is it just me, or does Lachlan's pic look to be taken just before he gobbled that "big fish"???? Hmm, wonder how it tasted.....:cross-eye We are still missing a few others besides the ones Carl mentioned.. such as EricB, St. Stephen, Zlishous (?), and a few others I can't think of right off hand.....

Hehe, yeah, they are trying to take over everything in the DC area.... like a couple others.....if it's not Koons, it's Sheehy..... His name was Chris Beisler, he quit and started his own chimmey cleaning business. Said he was tired of working for someone else all the time. Last I talked to him he was doing pretty good with it. He used to be the crew chief and "parts getter" for the guy that built the IT car I've got in my shop.

Yup, the wiring should be tucked up around the frame rail that runs crosswise in front of the fuel tank. Up near the wiring for the fuel sending unit. I'd be willing to bet is the module.... if it acts like the later ones do that are inside the dizzy, they will burn out on one side(or circuit) and run off the other, then, due to the increased demand, they overheat and cut out altogther, then, when they cool, it runs fine....

Only thing wrong with them in my mind is the front wheel drive... otherwise I would have had a Sentra SER a long time ago.... BTW, what's with Sheehy? Did they buy out Annapolis Nissan? Dang, that place changes hands enough.... Good friend of mine was the Parts Manager there back in the Tate and early Annapolis Nissan days.....wish he was still there too....:disappoin

If you use the search function on the Main Page with the keywords "floor pans", I'd be willing to bet you'll end up with 100+ threads on this subject... when you're done reading all that, you should have a pretty good idea what you are in for...:cross-eye

Hmm, forget the coil idea then.... No water lines to the intake, you can pretty much rule out vapor lock... still a very slight possibility, but more than likely it's not vapor locking... Which leave the clogging fuel tank pickup as the most likely, or the ignition module... when you say a "new" dizzy, do you mean a reman unit or a used one that is "new" to your car?

They'd work(like re-welding the lower perch), but you'd need to do some work to them to get it to sit level...the 260 housings are longer as are the springs...and somewhere in all that, the diameter of the housing changed as well. The 2+2 springs are even longer than the regular 260 spring IIRC...

Sounds like either vapor lock, clogged fuel pick up in the tank, or possibly the coil is bad. The coil could be overheating due and the spark is breaking down....or, it could possibly be the ignition module on the dizzy that is going out..... would give you nearly the same symptoms as the coil. That would be my first three picks for what it could be....

One thing you could do is check to make sure the wheel cylinder is where it should be in the mounting slot in the backing plate.... I'm wondering if it is possibly slid one way or the other, and that might be causing the arm to hit the backing plate, and not work on the star wheel the way it should.

There's nothing wrong with those numbers... sounds to me like the first thing you ought to do is a complete tune up. Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, points etc, then check your timing. After you do this, drive it a bit and then see what the plugs look like. If they are still loading up on 1-3 and the rest look OK, you'll need to go to the carbs. No sense messing with the carbs till you rule out all the other possible problems that are cheaper and require less work to fix.

zbear, you have a Private Message.

In that case, it would have 2 smaller hard lines running along the fuel line......

Nope, the 73 wouldn't have had the carbon canister. The line is the return fuel line, that was used with the stock carbs.

Damn, 10 days and that's all they did to it? I'd have to say you got one lucky break there..... Glad it's back where it belongs, but damned if I wouldn't be getting in someone's face if I had to pay to have my property returned to me..... Bad enough it was stolen in the first place, then to top it off they got cojones enough to charge you impound fees before they let you have it back? That kinda crap just isn't right.....:mad:

Starting to wonder if he's been using the old "Dog ate my homework" excuse at school too....

Found this on one of the racing forums... now this looks like fun! I'll supply the snow tires if you let me take a lap or two in your car Tom.....:devious: http://planet-torque.com/ms/wag011804/01182004run2.wmv

Done... guess we didn't think to add the new year yet cuz things are kinda quiet on this side of the pond for a while....:disappoin

If you do a search for Y70 head, you will find a couple old threads that Alan replied to with a lot of good info on this particular head.

I'd have to guess they are marine diesels out of a pretty good sized ship... Most of the smaller engines Detroit made for commercial applications were usually either V-12 or V-16's if I remember right........