2ManyZs

Both brackets on my 71 were black, same as the rest of the motor mount assembly...... Far as I know, they were original.

Lachlan seems to be pretty good about keeping this thread off course doesn't he???????? :devious:

I've got at least one complete exhaust manifold with the air injection tubing.... in fact, if you want, I'd sell you all the smog stuff off the 71 engine I've got on the stand, since I'm not going to use any of it.. but, I'd rather sell it all (including the air pump and brackets) so I don't have that laying around.....

Well, asking for a "deposit" up front doesn't sound all that unreasonable, since the consumables like sandpaper and such are getting a bit expensive. Although, I'd try to get him to accept less than 1/2 the total, sounds a bit on the excessive side to me.

This has been on the news all night... Been sitting here thinking of how many times I've driven under this overpass in the last 20 years..... Makes you realize, that it's not always the idiots on the road in front, behind, or beside you that you need to watch.... Of course, in this case, there's no way anyone could have avoided this. http://www.nbc4.com/traffic/2761942/detail.html

Let's hope the POS that stole it only needed a set of wheels to go pick up his girlfriend or his less than human friends and it didn't end up in a chop shop..... Damn shame ya can't put a severe beating on them if they do catch whoever took it... lot better than letting some lawyer get them probation.....:devious:

Yes, but..... You'll have to use the bumper mounts that come off the 260 so the bumpers will bolt onto the mounts as they are different altogether from the mounting of the bumper/bumper supports on the early car. Also, the bumpers will stick out about 1 to 1 1/2 inches further from the body than the early bumpers, which means you will need the bumper fillers or it's gonna look kinda odd. Those bumper fillers are getting harder to find and more and more expensive to buy new....

Hmm, does it at home and wants the same price that a professional shop charges? Does he have the equipment a pro shop would have such as a paint booth? If not, his prices are way out of line..... he's trying to charge for a professional job with the possibility of only a so-so paint job.... Best bet is to ask for referrences and talk to th owners and view some of his work before you decide. One of your priorities should be to see how well his work has stood the test of time. Almost any new paint job will look OK, the biggest test is how they look 3-5 years down the road. IMO, anyone can charge 4K or more for a paint job, but, can they deliver the results..... I know for certain I couldn't, yet, somewhere there's probably someone who might give me that kind of money to do one.....:devious: And yes, sometimes those "backyard" paint jobs can and do look as good as a high dollar job, but, the people that can deliver those are a tough to find.

Hmmmm.. what I find the most odd in all this Pete is the fact that the wheels are showing very little positive camber considering how much higher it's sitting. Or, did you dial that out with camber plates or bushings? Almost looks like my first 73 did when we tried putting 260 2+2 springs on it trying for some "cheap" stiffer springs..... we then had to cut a lot off the springs to get the car back to it's normal ride height due to the lenght difference in the springs....

I've had a couple that had loose fitting caps. Try a different diameter O-ring on the cap and it should tighten up the fit considerably. I had one that had an O-ring that was so thin in diameter you could barely notice any difference with or without the O-ring.

Yeah, I e-mailed the seller and told him he was trying to pass this off as being All Original, when in fact it's not..... He basically told me I didn't know anything about Z cars, cuz 73's did come with round top carbs..... He also stated he's only selling this to finance a Ferrari 512BB he wants to buy.... sounds to me like he has more money than brains. I'd like to see where he had this "professionally appraised" cuz they obviously know very little about Z cars. More like they wanted to make a buck on the appraisal, and make him feel better about his investment.:cross-eye

205/60's will fit on a 6 inch rim, although, they would be close to the max you'd want to put on a 6 inch rim due to the tires tread and section width...You'll need to keep an eye on the tire wear, and adjust your tire pressure accordingly, as they may have a bit of odd wear (if you don't have the optimum tire pressure) due to it being about as wide as you'd want to go for a 6 inch rim If you got to a 50 series or 55 series, you would probably want to drop it back to a 195 for better tire wear.

Never seen one of VB's, but the MSA carpet kits I've had, I've had no complaints with.......

I've got a set of the "wobble" 3/8 drive extensions that work fairly well for getting onto the "hidden" ones under the intake/exhaust. At times, I've had to use two of them connected together to get the right angle so to get the socket on the nuts, but, with these, you can apply a lot more force than you can with the swivel sockets which will bind up and you can't apply enough force to break the nuts loose. It's either that, or try to use a box end wrench if at all possible, and open end can/will round off the nuts if you aren't careful, especially when working semi-blind as you are under the manifolds.......

Any chance you could post a pic of the wire in question? There's so many different wires on the FI cars that it would be almost impossible to figure out which one you are talking about.

Sounds like the mounting nut on the bottom of the lever is either loose, or the tapered bushings the lever inserts into are shot... You can still get the solid bushings for the A model shifter, which might help tighten up the shifting on yours. Try Chloe at MidwestZ, she probably can supply them.

Nope, sorry, the short shift kit only works on the B model transmissions.... There isn't much you could do to the A model due to the design of the shift lever linkage on the outside of the transmission.

Actually, we just had a discussion about this particular car, but I'll be darned if I can find the thread......:stupid: It's a nice car, but, it is not "All Original" as the seller states. The car has the early round top carbs and not the original 73 flat tops. And, there's a couple other small items that aren't quite original.....Plus, it's got what looks like a very old black paint job under the hood, which really hurts it's value. Definately lets everyone know that it is not truly "all original" as we all know it should be body color in the engine compartment. It's probably worth more than the average 73 you'd find on Ebay, but definately not what the seller claims in his ad as to the "appraised value".... My guess is, the car won't be bid much higher than 8K if it goes that high as most true enthusiasts will recognize the car as not being a true "original" car..... I'll try to find the other thread, just so you can get an idea what we "spotted" as not being quite right with the car.... Ah hah , here's the other thread. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=68136#post68136 I noticed he added a response to the black under the hood, says it's dealer added Ziebart? Jeez, glad the never got ahold of any of my cars, notice how the overspray is all over the fender lip where it attaches the fender?

Hmm, I couldn't find my copy... glad someone had them handy, although, it is kinda hard to read.... You'll also find some tips in the Tech articles section http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1200

I think he had it right the first guess.... looks a lot like the louvers seen on the early Supra's.... most of the Z louvers were shorter, or closer to the window.

Well, this sounds like a good question for our resident engine "guru" Phred. But, he'll need to know exactly what piston you have and whether it's a flat top or not. If Phred doesn't reply, you can send him a Private Message and ask him to respond to your question.....

Mark's right, it is probably just binding up in the splines of the slip yoke. You might need an extra set of hands to do it, but you'll need to keep the diff up high enough to keep the shaft fairly straight as you pull it out. There's very little play in those splines.

Well, I'm on my 5th Dodge since early 94, and haven't had more than minor problems with any of them... Of course, 2 of them have been Cummins diesels, so that might have something to do with it..... Most trouble free one I had was the 94, with the 318, 18-22mpg with a 1/2 ton 4x4 and put over 80K on it in less than 3 years while I was commuting.

Being a MOPAR kinda guy, I like it... but, it looks too much like a Lambo, Bugatti EB110, Ferrari clone..... Even has some of the Saleen S7 in it in places.........

Geez Craig, we can now see who the serious model builder is.. glass showcase, models out the wazzoo....:cross-eye I only wished I had the patience and steady hands I used to have.....can't seem to even find the box with all my modeling tools. Had to buy one of those "kiddie" kits at Wally World to put the Z together..... Used to be a place up in Scranton, Pa that had any kind of model and/or model supply you could think of, wish they were still in business. The guy that owned it was Oscar Koveleski, who also did a lot of racing in the old Can Am days.