2ManyZs

The main trouble with the aluminum 300 caliper is they were only offered for a short time and their supply is kinda limited compared to the later model. I've bid a couple times on the aluminum ones on Ebay but backed off when the prices went up in the 300-400 categories, for used ones needing to be rebuilt..... there's a lot of interest in them and they do command pretty high prices. That might be the biggest drawback, as you can do the 200SX complete kit for what the aluminum calipers cost.

Before you do anything, take some emery cloth or fine steel wool and clean both fuse clips inside where the fuse contacts are, and replace the fuse with a brand new one. Sometimes that is the problem, little corrosion on an old fuse will cause it to get hot. If that doesn't work, you'll need to check all the bulbs, contacts in the bulb holders and check the ground wires on the rear harness under the plastic tail light panel.

Friend of mine sent me this today, showing the fires around San Diego. The night time pics are just plain scary..... http://www.pbase.com/milest/sandiegofires&page=1

I believe those "rental agreements" could possibly leave you in more trouble than they are worth in the long run....:cross-eye

Or, no one has taken the time to make the mounting plate to mount the calipers. But, the rotors might not have the right offset so that a mount could be made to use the calipers...... Good question....

Never used the Metal Master pads, but I have used Ferodo's and they aren't as that great... Best bet is to go with Hawks, they have compounds for street, street/competition and all out competition. You can also get them from Carbotech, and then there's always Porterfield. http://www.carbotecheng.com/ http://www.hawkperformance.com/ http://www.porterfield-brakes.com/ Personally, I'd go with the Hawk pads. They have the selection you need to find the right one for whatever you end up doing with the car. FWIW, the Nismo Competition rear shoes are expensive, and don't last long. I used cheap ones from Napa that were comparable to the Metal Masters and had good results while I was road racing and saved a pile of money. Something along the lines of Performance Friction rear shoes would be a good choice for shoes.

Can't live with them, can't live without them......:cross-eye :tapemouth

The gas tank junk would get sucked up into the pickup more when you are at speed when the engine is drawing a larger amount of fuel than when at idle. The ZX distirbutors use a module on the outside of the distributor instead of the internal pickup like the 280Z's did. Your's should be a 12-80 which is the better one of them all. Without it, no ignition. With a failing one, the symptoms you describe, pretty mcuh fit the bill. Be glad you don't have the internal ones like some of the other cars such as the 200SX I had, it was 200 dollars to replace at dealers cost and about the size of a large cigarette lighter. Look at this page, about half way down for a little explanation. http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/engine.html There's a way to test all the sensors, but without a Factory Service Manual, I can't give you the specs or the resistence values you should have. You can also test the sensors at the ECU if you have a service manual to tell you which lugs on the ECU to check. The best thing you could do is find a Factory Service Manual and look in the troubleshooting section. With the EFI and electronic ignition, there are too many things for me to remember all of them.

I had one on the 280 and took it off when I built it to race... have had 2 chances to sell it and can't find the center piece..:stupid: Got the end pieces, but without the biggest piece, it sure isn't much good..... They've got a store on Ebay, but I've never read their feedbacks, so maybe they are doing better with customer service or their stor won't be on Ebay long....

Couple other ideas... Ignition module? Junk in gas tank sucking up and blocking the fuel pickup Water or air temp sensors? Leaning out or enrichening the mixture. Fuel pump relay? Does the car make any unusual noises or smoking when it acts up? That might lead us in a different direction depending on the answer.

If it's the one I'm thinking of, that's been off the market a few years now... you might try here though.. http://www.showcars-bodyparts.com/ They have some things that no one else has made in a while, but I have heard their service isn't as good as it could be...

My first idea would be the ignition module or something in the ignition itself. Could be a fuel problem (or electircal)in the AFM or fuel pump itself as well....

I didn't even look at the trunk pic.... I was too impressed with the engine bay and interior.... Ya gotta wonder why the tank is there in the first place.... Cuz, a fuel cell could be mounted underneath with no trouble. And I'd definately use a sealed battery box or an Optima battery instead of what's there.

Really have to admire the sanitary installation of the Z EFI on this 510. Very clean engine bay, and I bet it runs pretty good too... http://cgi.aol.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2439741542&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:US:1

If you are talking about a loud "bang" or "pop" as the backfiring, it's usually due to a carb, timing or ignition issue that is out of whack. Do a complete tune-up, and check your timing before you do anything else.

That's what I'm planning on, especially important on those 4 bottom fender bolts and a couple other places the bolts have a habit of rusting. Of course, mine isn't going to be pure stock anyways..... I guess if you wanted to keep it close to stock, you could just replace the ones that are in the problem areas with stainless bolts from the hardware store..... since you probably will remember which ones gave you the most trouble when you took it apart.

Ok, that shoots that idea out the window... I just didn't want him to get a surprise if his old ones didn't work.

Looks like one to me too, but you might have to use the 280 output shafts with the clips in it and not the bolt in ones from the 240...unless it's been converted to the bolt in ones already. If it came out of a 78 it probably needs the 280 style.

It would be wise to do a cut-and-fit as you may find more rust underneath that needs to be taken care of. Not only that, but if you were to fit the new one over your old one, it would mess up the door gap in the door jamb. Not too hard, but you will end up doing some cutting and fitting to make it look right. Mine was rusted through in the center of the panel, yet, underneath was a lot of rust hiding all the way back to the inner fender panel where the dog leg mounts to in the fenderwell. You only need to drill out the bottom 4 or 5 spot welds in the fender lip, the spots welds in the door jamb, the spot welds along the lower flange, and then there should be 4 in the vertical overlap at the front. The front edge not being sealed with anything other than paint, is another place they will rust out too....

I think that's part of the problem, as the "local agents" don't exist.... most of the times they want you to mail the return check before you ship the vehicle. One of the posts I saw about it, said they requested a certified check be placed in the mail and sent back to them so they could hire these supposed "local agents" to organize shipment. Once you get the cashiers check and mail it, you are out half the supposed "transaction" and they have a tidy profit since the check they originally sent was a forgery.

This was going on for a while on Ebay.. guess they've started using any web-sites selling cars since they weren't able to pull the scam on Ebay like they used to. I think the problem lies with our inability to prosecute anyone in a foreign country without a reciprocity agreement. Mostly I've heard these were Nigerians pulling the scam, and last I heard, the US and Nigerian gov't are on the best of terms..so if they're are being sheltered by a crooked gov't, this is going to continue....

Can you get to the head of the screw with a small set of vice grips? If the phillips slot is what is stripping out, you should be able to get a pair of good vice-grips or perhaps channel locks to break it loose. Or, if you have one, a good bit in a torque driver might work. If it's the threads that are stripping out, you're probably going to have to at least tap(chase) the threads with a tap when you're done. So, if you do strip out the threads, you may have to drill and re-tap them anyways.... The screw size is #10. Kmack (member here) found some nice stainless screws with an allen head, so finding new screws should be just a trip to a good hardware store or Lowe's/Home Depot.

How many sets do you want? 14x6 only or are 14x5.5's OK?:classic:

Guess I better start collecting all the ones still being used on race cars and corner the market. Hmm, that might not be a bad idea after all.... Only problem with the set I had is they were 14x5.5's.... but they did look good on the 82 200sx I had at one time...that's the reason I traded them back to the guy who had them originally so I could get the factory rear bumper panel back that I traded to him for... whatever it was that I can't remember.... But in all seriousness, there are still plenty floating around if people know where to look. They just aren't being used. Be willing to bet most are like my old set, just sitting in a shed somewhere. Roadster and 510 owners probably have more than all the Z nuts combined as they were a popular swap. Of course, they were also a popular race wheel too, which won't help in the looks department.

Guess I better go get the old set I had at one time... silly me, I didn't realize they were made of "unobtanium" like this set.. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=40017&item=2439076314