2ManyZs

Errr yup, that's the one of them Chloe... guess I got to many pages bookmarked....:stupid: There was another pic that had them side-by-side from the rear... dunno where I put that one... Thanks. Guess if I wasn't so lazy, I could have just taken the camera out in the garage and made my own side-by-side pic....hate hefting those things out from under the shelves when I don't have too...

I don't remember if I got all the way through the last one...so I can't remember what was there before.....:stupid:

Sorry, I went looking for an old thread that might have had what you wanted to know in it and haven't found the right one yet ........so many threads, so little time..... The easiest way to distinguish a 180 from the 200 is the rear cover. The 180 has a cover that is closer to being flat than the 200. The 200 also has the mustache mounting studs on an extended part of the cover while the 180 cover has more of just a raised flat area. The vent is also another give away, the 180 is further to the right and closer to the mounting flange of the cover, while the 200 is more in the center and farther away due to the raised section of the cover. There's a pic on one of the sites that has them side by side but I haven't found it yet, I thought it was on the Datsun Garage site....

It might depend on how they install on the pedals, it might work with no trouble, and then it might take a little modifications to your existing pedals. Some of the pedal sets I've seen only clamped over the top of the existing pedals, and then there are some that are made to bolt through the existing pedals with the mounting bolts made to look like they were part of the design of the pad. I've got a set, that I can't remember where I got, that clamp over the stock pedals, but it doesn't fit over the throttle pedal as well as I'd like. The stock pedal is a bit longer than the pad and still shows a bit. I'm going to take a throttle pedal out of my parts car and cut it off and drill mounting holes and mount the pads with counter sunk bolts. Best thing to do is ask if it will work before you shell out the bucks.

Phred, so that people can decide which is better for their engine, do you have some kind of baseline which would help people choose whether the 40's or 45's would suit their engines? Such as a minimum CR, valve size, head preference and cam specs? I think we all know that 40's are probably too much for a bone stock engine, but is there a set of parameters that should be met before you can go from 40's to 45's?

Guess they figure that it is a "poor man's leather"..... This car, with it's claimed 28K original miles, is probably worth the asking price, as long as the owner has the documentation to prove the mileage. But, it could also have issues pertaining to it's non-use as well. This car could be worth paying someone to appraise it and look it over in detail.

Sounds like the float in one carb or the other may be stuck. The best thing rebuild kits are from ZTherapy, and you will be way ahead of the game if you also buy their tune-up video at the same time, it will answer a ton of questions before you even start tinkering with the carbs. http://www.ztherapy.com/

Oh you EFI guys are just spoiled SteveLOL But I have to ask, why the door shut? Aren't you afraid of breaking door glass if you rev it up?:classic:

To fix the rust, and fix the obvious lack of maintenance and get the car to be a reaonably reliable driver, you could end up spending well in excess of $5,000.... just to make it road worthy and safe. With the amount of rust that's easily visible, I'd really hate to see the underside of the car. Only my opinion here, but I'd let him pawn it off on someone else.

Here's another place you can find parts and complete triple set-ups. I think 45 would be the max on a street driven car, even if you only use it once in a while on the street, a lot would depend on your cam. http://www.wolfcreekracing.com/classified.htm

Besides the rocker, the rear quarter around the fender lip doesn't look too good either. If that's as bad as it looks from a distance, the inner fender is probably gone too... My biggest question is, what's up with the rear end? Looks like they have 2+2 springs in it to give it that "air shocks" lift to the back end. For the inexperienced mechanic, this car looks to be a money pit. Labor would eat you up trying to fix what should have been repaired a long time ago. Might make a good parts car, and at 800 bucks, that's about what the owner must consider it, a parts car. Just my opinion, but I think you'd do well to pass on this one. Besides, for around 2K you could probably pick up a 89 or so 240SX in much better condition and it wouldn't cost you an arm and a leg to make it something decent.

Russell, I take it you have the old style camber plates that bolt into the original holes? Oh, BTW, next time you're at Datsun Dynamics, you need to remind Brian D. who you are... he didn't know who I was talking about until I described your car....remembers your car, but not the owner....:cross-eye Guess I'm not the only one losing my memory.

Or to continue the NASCAR analogy: Understeer(push) is when the front hits the wall first, oversteer(loose) is when the back end hits the wall first...course, for them, it depends on who's on their bumper too....

I made a list the other day of the marking when I was checking to make sure the 180 I just bought was what it was supposed to be. 39:11=3:54 37:10=3:70 39:10=3:90 37:9 =4:11

I was just thinking the same thing.... it does look similar to the one prototype drawing they had for the 350......

Well, the Vin is not as low as yours or many others, but it puts the production date to somewhere between 5/70 and 6/70, so being that, it's in the first 7-9 months or so of actual production. I've usually considered a car with a VIN under 5000 that has survived to be a bit more of a rarity, since it wasn't long after these cars were produced that production levels increased to where they were putting them out the door like gang-busters. My car is an 11/70 with a Vin of 14749, so in the 6 months after this car came off the line, they built 10,000 cars in the next 5 or 6 months, where they only built 5K in the first 8 or 9 months. Finding cars with VINs under 1000 today is a rare find, especially considering these cars had the lightest chassis which made them even more prone to rust.

Cool... first time I've ever seen someone use the 240 nose on another car.. Now, if they'd used the BRE rear hatch spoiler or the taller 3 piece instead of the wing I could fall for one of those...in black....:classic:

It would be kinda of a grey area considering how many factors would go into the correct, or best performing ones.... Carbs, carb modifications, intake runner lenght, valve size, valve placement in the head and shrouding,valve angle, port size, port matching, combustion chamber volume and shape, etc. etc. etc.... To tune it to the "nth" degree, it would have to be done on a dyno, so that all the other criteria can be taken into account.

Hmm, that area along the firewall seam looks like it could be more than surface rust, judging by the amount of rust on the brake and gas line.....:disappoin Drivers side looks pretty good though...but there could be quite a bit hiding behind all that undercoating too... I guess the biggest question is this, are you ready for another possible project?

Door panels are available, as are all the plastic panels, and the vinyl as well. There are a couple different suppliers that you can use for them if you do buy it. If he could send you pics of the underside, such as the frame rails and floors, and maybe inside the front inner fenders so you can see under the battery tray and the like. I'd say the car could be worth 5-7K.... maybe more. It's really hard to put a firm price on the car, because it's hard to judge what someone might be willing to pay for it. Of course, what it's worth in CA could be a lot less than what it might be worth on the east coast, since the number of rust free cars out there is so much higher than it is here. By the pics, it's worth quite a bit more than the average Z you see on Ebay.

Well, it's really hard to be super critical with the pics he posted. He's done a good job of not taking any pics of the areas I'd like to look at, that's for sure. Like down inside the engine compartment so we could see the frame rails and around the battery. Other than what's already been posted, the only other things I can see by the pics is the seat covers are faded badly, and it looks like the carpet has been added over the trans tunnel. Can't tell how the door panels look and if there are any speaker holes cut in them or not. Since he says the floors have been replaced, I'd really want to look them over good and see how well that was done. It looks pretty good with him taking pics from 10 feet away..but it's up close that could make the difference. Even though it's an early Vin, and even if the price was under 2500, I'd want to see it up close before I'd put my money on it.

I've looked at that auction a couple times... looks very nice. Only things I can pick out off the bat are that someone went and cut holes for speakers in some really nice door panels, the rusty center caps on the wheels(can't tell, but it looks like one missing on the passengers side) and the missing emblems on the hatch. Although it doesn't show under the hood, it's got the A/C pod on the console, so I'm wondering if that still works.

Wondered how many replies it would take before someone caught the "710" cap... Now ya got me curious Victor, guess I'll have to go out to the garage and check all of my valve covers to see which ones I have....:cross-eye

I was trying to be nice and not pic the car apart too bad like we sometimes do by only pointing the obvious point, which is the car seems like it may have a less than "perfect maintenance" type of owner.... The luggage tonneau we just had a long thread talking about that not to long ago.. actually, that's one of the better points of the car, however small it might be.... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=9282 I agree, the car probably needs a thorough inspection to see if it's a case of a not-so-good car with a fairly decent looking paint job to throw people off its faults. Although, with the fairly early VIN, it might be well worth saving if it's not too bad. Oh, and those fenders.... ugh....

I was looking at that the other day... Looks good, but I have to wonder about an owner that would drive around with only 3 lugs on each wheel, cuz he isn't smart enough to go to the local parts store and find the lugs. I've found those lug nuts at the little Advance store here in town for those wheels, so makes me wonder why he says he can't find them.... Might make you take a second look just to see what else might be half-arsed...unless the selling price is just too good to be true, in which case, it might not be a bad deal... But, for a first car, and you know what things cost for a Z, and all the little things that can be wrong, you sure you don't want to just look at a late model 240sx? Plus, you'd have to figure in the insurance costs with a teenage, male driver.... Not that the insurance companies have ever discriminated against young male drivers....:tapemouth