2ManyZs

I recently crewed for my old race car.. OK, it's a 280 but it too would not rev past a certain RPM not matter what we did... ended up replacing the cap and rotor and the problem disappeared...:stupid: One thing we shouldn't have overlooked to begin with..... I agree also it could be a static timing, or vacuum advance problem as well....or, it could be the fuel pickup in the tank is getting clogged up with junk in the tank. Could be a combination of things, but wouldn't hurt to verify them all...

I know there are tabs on the drain "pockets" that the pins from the outside vent grill goes through, but I don't see how that could hold the drain in place. There has to be something somewhere in there to locate them and hold them in place.Of course, until I pull mine apart I can't answer your question...:stupid:

While it is runnign, have you checked that the two dead cylinders injectors are firing? Take a long screwdriver, place it on the metal retainer on the injector and put your ear to the end of it(like you would with a stethoscope) and see if you hear the injector clicking... if not, it's probably in the wiring to the injector. The plastic wiring ends that plug onto the injectors are famous for cracking or losing contact. You can buy replacements from MSA and a couple other suppliers luckily. Also, make sure the plug end is securely attached to the injector, the little wire clips sometimes will loosen if the plastic has cracked on the plug. I'd say it probably the electrical connection to the individual injectors that are the problem if the rest are working fine.....if you recently replaced the hoses, possibly you might have just loosened up a plug that was in bad shape to begin with.

In a word, nope... you can do a little with adding resistors to some of the sensors to control fuel mixture.. but not sure about what or how it's done...you'd have to get a book on the Bosch FI to find out how to do that..there is a book on the subject, called "How to Tune and Modify Bosche Fuel Injection" that covers a little of it.. but I let that book go with the race car... There used to be a little rheostat you could buy for the EFI 280's that was called a "fuel enrichment circuit" that mounted in the wiring off the temp sensors on the thermo housing.. but haven't seen one of those in years...

I think you are referring to a remote filter mount for the oil filter right? It's an adapter that fits where the filter mounts on the block with 2 lines up to another adapter where the filter is located? It's aftermarket... you can pick them up at most any parts store... makes it easier and less messy to change the oil. Some of today's cars are so hard to access the filter, that people use these so they can reach the filter and drain it without having oil run all over the frame, suspension etc.... Also, they make it easier to plumb lines to and from an oil cooler.

Slip yoke on the front.. all you need are the basic box end wrenches to pull the shaft.. better to take a good selection from 10mm all the way to 17mm just in case you find something else that needs "adjustment".. one second thought, better to take two of 14mm and 15mm.. I've seen some cars that had different sized nuts on the flanges...

Pull the interior panel off the hatch and see if the plastic drains are loose under the grilles on the hatch. It's possible the water is getting in through the grilles and if the drains are loose, they may be letting the water escape before it gets to the edge of the hatch where it is supposed to drain. Not sure how to fix them, I know the ones in mine are loose but I haven't taken the hatch off yet to paint it, and don't plan on messing with it until I remove the hatch itself and get it to where I can see what's going on. Sorry I can't offer a quick fix....

I know it's not an E-31.. but how often will you get the chance to buy a virgin head for a Z car anymore? I bid on one and it only went for $229, I would have bid again, but I already have enough parts... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2433412200&category=33617

Please tell me that battery isn't loose... :cross-eye

Uh Carl... how's the fluid going to get on the exhaust? Wrong side remember? I'd say it was acting as a ground....... which isn't any better than it having direct current involved....

As far as the weight difference betwen the Toyota calipers and the stock ones, I can hardly tell the difference. I just got a set of the S12's and holding them in one hand and a stock caliper in the other, I can hardly tell a difference in weight. I don't have a good scale to weigh them on, but the difference is not as big as you would think. The body of the caliper is larger, but the pistons are so much smaller in the Toyota calipers, that I think they would actually come out pretty close in weight.

There is probably air trapped in the master cylinder. Try opening the bleeder on the slave cylinder just a very little bit, and pump the clutch pedal a couple times. Opening the bleeder slightly will give a little backpressure on the master and hopefully that will get the trapped air out. Most times, after the air is bled out of the master cylinder, you can open the bleeder on the slave and the fluid will feed through with just gravity. Just be sure to keep the master cylinder full while you are bleeding the slave cylinder or you'll end up starting all over.

Nope....:disappoin You're gonna have to pick the engine up just enough to give you room enough to unbolt them. Unless you want to try a board (2x6 would work)that goes the whole width of the oil pan, and lift it with a floor jack. Might make a mess of the finish on the oil pan..... You are only going to have to pick it up about an inch or maybe two at most... only enough to give you enough room to unbolt the mounts and put them on the correct sides....

Only two things I can think of on that side of the engine that might have caused it.. either it was rubbing against the battery cable, or could it have been running against the starter? It doesn't look like it's any longer than the stock one, but if it is longer, that's all I can think of. Or else it was just a faulty hose to begin with....

Mark, if you stand back an look at them a minute, you'll see that the drivers side is slightly longer than the passengers side, which give the engine its "tilt".... At least you only have to take the weight off the motor to change them around... better than pulling it all back out and chance a scratch in the paint job.:cross-eye

No such luck.. these will be R-200's from Z31's.....

By the looks of it, you are looking at another 900( the best floor pans are almost 400) in patch panels to fix the obvious rust, cuz when you get into it, you are probably going to find even more rust. Battery area looks kinda suspect and I'd imagine you'll find rust in the rockers going by the condition of the floors. Unless you plan on making this a long term project, I'd look for something a little better. Or, if you can talk him down a couple hundred, this would make a good parts car. Too bad the rest of the car isn't as clean as the engine....

Bigger garages just get filled with more "stuff"... :stupid:

Here's one in your area that doesn't look to be too bad... needs some work, but maybe you can go in together with someone and buy both of them.. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2433426259&category=6187

Unless you are planning on welding steel that is thicker than 3/8ths, a 110 volt model would probably do nearly any job you would need it for, and save you a couple hundred in the process. I've got one of the small Lincoln's and it does a fine job up to 3/16 steel(I haven't needed it for anything thicker) and with the gas upgrade, I think you could get one of these ready to go for about 500 or possibly less if you shop around. As far as doing your own wiring, I wouldn't do it unless you have at least some experience. I shouldn't cost much to have an electrician do it, it's all done inside the fuse panel. Less than a half hour job.. or should be.

ZMe, you should know by now that I get them from e-mailed jokes from friends that are even more strange than I am.. ain't that right old buddy, old pal?

Seller ended the auction.. wonder if you scared them finding all those things that didn't quite fit their description....:devious: I looked at that auction a couple days ago... when I saw the snow tire referrence, I knew it couldn't be as nice as they made it out to be....if ya got snow tires for it, that usually means it's been driven in the snow and that isn't too good...

Someone must have lost his girlfriend to a "rice-boy"... I can't believe the Ebay "police" haven't pulled it yet.... Gotta admit, he's slapped a lot of faces with that one....:devious:

With a 7" wide rim, the best offset is 0. Larger wheels above 15 inch will require larger brakes and a lot of suspension upgrades, or it's a waste of money.

My question is do you really need that much? With an oil cooler and the associated plumbing you will be in the neighborhood of 6+ quarts. All you really need are a sump and possibly a windage tray. Phred might know how to do this or have plans on how to make one out of simple sheet metal.