2ManyZs

Nice for a 240SX but no good for a Z... You'd have to run some very thick spacers and then you still might have problems with spring clearance... then you would be spending even more on adjustable coil-overs... Best to find some with the right backspacing.

There's also a brand new 3:90 ring and pinion with a $450 Buy it Now.... good price for a brand new one... the price from Nissan was around 700 last I knew.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2425883761&category=33731

I don't know if you can repair it or not... but it sounds to me more like a problem with the cold start valve and not the air regulator. If you have a Factory Service Manual, it will give you simple tests to check the operation of the cold start valve, and the water temperature switch and thermotime switch mounted in the front of the water inlet under the thermostat. Verify everything there is OK before you start spending any money on replacement parts as it might just be the sensor and not the "valve" or regulator in the first place. There is also an air temp sensor in the front of the AFM as well that should be checked too... If you don't have an Factory Service Manual, you really ought to get one with the fuel injected cars as there are so many little things that can cause major problems... it will drive you nuts diagnosing a problem with out it... Check with z@datsundude.com for a factory service manual, they should still be available for about 72 bucks.. yes, it's expensive, but no more than buying a part that you really didn't need in the first place.

They are still listed on their web-site under "Old School"... hmmm 4 different colors to choose from. Wonder how their prices compare to Panasports...... http://www.konigwheels.com/catalog_subcategory.cfm?CategoryID=1&SubcategoryID=25

Well... hmmmmm First thing is, I wouldn't put a washer of any kind between the rotor hat and the hub, you need a good flat surface that the rotor hat mounts all the way around the hub to prevent the rotor from warping from the heat. The only other thing I can think of right off hand is that the hub isn't seated properly on the spindle and/or the wheel bearings aren't tight enough...that's about the only thing I can think of that would cause the problem:ermm:

Definately have to use a hardened steel washer... but... unless I'm mistaken, putting a washer under the mounting bolts is going to move it in the wrong direction and make it even worse isn't it? I'm with Carl, go get your money back and get your cores returned. Then either go find rebuilt calipers that work, or rebuild the ones you have... it's a very simple job and parts are readily available, you should be able to find new pistons if you need them, so rebuilding the old ones is an easy task.

Yup, sounds like it isn't the clutch after all..... but, it could be something internal that is not difficult to fix. It could be something other than the synchro... like the shift fork is worn or bent, roll pin or even one of the bearings on the main or countershaft is going... But, that means you'll still need to open it up to find out, which in itself can be a PITA....In any case, it sounds like you'll need to be ready for a rebuild or at least a good refreshing....

Looks like it was a good day to have some fun. Great looking car too, although I did see one that I kinda liked better than the Z.... but then, I have raced a Z (sort of).... Not very often do you see a Ferrari 365 Daytona still being used on the track, one of my all time favorite cars.

I don't know that they look like they are for vented rotors.. but, if you are putting these on a 280 they might be 240 calipers and the slight difference in the hubs might be the difference. But, if you are putting these on a 240 and they were 280 calipers, seems like they would be rubbing on the other side of the caliper. Ya got me on this one....

If it didn't do it before with the old caliper, don't do anything to compromise the car. Take the caliper back and have it exchanged first and see if the next one works or not. I'm also wondering about the rotor, never heard of anyone doing them while still mounted to the hub unless he did it on a milling lathe such as he'd do a flywheel on? I'd exchange the calipers.. then see what happens.

Well, it all depends on what your production date is. If you have a later production date in 71 then it is probably OK, the early cars or the series 1's we usually refer to are the only ones that have the reversed master cylinders. The only reason I said to check is because during the later 71 model year they were changed. If you have a later one on there now, you're lucky as you will save a pile of money buying a new one. If a PO had changed it without changing the lines around, you'd probably have all sorts of brake problems, and the smaller reservoir would be overflowing due to the volume of fluid that the front brakes use.

You can get the brake hardware kits from MSA for a very reasonable price. New pins, clips, shims and all.... As to the problem... hmm... haven't seen one like this either... The first thing that comes to my mind is the disc is not seated on the hub correctly, or is not torqued down enough. You didn't by chance put a washer between the rotor and the hub by mistake did you? Or one between the caliper and the mount? By what little it is off, it almost looks like a possibility. Does it do this all the way around the disc? The only reason I ask is if it only does this in one spot, the rotor is likely warped. Now, you say you had them turned, so this shouldn't be a problem... but.....The only other possibility is that the caliper is the problem, perhaps someone ground on the mount for some odd reason and messed up the offset? That's one of the problems with buying rebuilt or reman, you never know what they started with, it could have been a piece of junk to begin with and should have been scrapped. My money is on the rotor not being seated flat all the way around where it mounts on the hub. I have seen them try to sit unevenly and only after torqueing them down do the mount flush with the hub. When you draw the bolts down, it is best to do it in a criss-cross pattern like you would on your wheels, the rotor has to fit tightly over the raised flange on the hub and if not done properly it will either not slide over the flange or will end up at an angle.

MSA, VB or a Nissan dealer would be your best places to look. Highly likely that even if you find a dealer or another parts source, they would have to order it. Personally, I'd go with MSA, they will likely have it in stock and ship it out quicker.

We discussed this on another thread and I can't seem to find it.... I think we kinda agreed that they were original equipment in other markets but not in the US. They may have been available at the dealers, but only as an add-on.

I've got a couple sets of 72's laying around somewhere.... Don't know what, if any difference there is with the 70's though... have to look it up in the microfiche and see what is says.... Looks like build dates up to 6/70 were different than the rest, so if you r build date is 7/70 or later the ones from any models up to 73 will work OK. PM me if you can use these and we'll discuss a price.....

Seems like that would create more backpressure in the system than the Borla's, Flowmasters, or other mufflers that use the chambers instead of the fiberglass packing. Also note, on the bottom of that page, it says the item is not returnable... hmm, wonder if that's because so many people are unhappy with them? Don't see that printed on most of the other sites for "race" type mufflers.... although most people would take that as a given that you can't return it after use....

Unless I'm mistaken there is no O2 sensor on any of the 280's other than CA models. They didn't start using them on all 50 states models until 79 when they put the catalytic converter on. If you don't have an Factory Service Manual, you are walking blindfolded when trying to diagnose a problem with the FI systems. The FSM will give you all the resistance values for the sensors such as the water temp sensor which controls the cold start valve and other parameters of the FI. This would be the first thing you should check, if the water temp sensor or the air temp sensor are not working, they will more than likely cause you to have a rich condition.

On the choke handle inside? Forward.

Nearly all the body parts are interchangeable. However, even though the doors do fit, you will find that the later 280's had a different door latch mechanism. There are patch panels available from MSA for about 35 bucks each, but you will need to have them installed by someone that is a good welder and body person if you can't do them yourself.

My first idea is either your float setting in the carbs or maybe your mixture is off just a little. With a bored and stoked set up like you have, you're gonna need to be a bit richer than most other engine set-ups..... That's where I would start anyways....

Easy to spot.... early masters have the large reservoir in the front and later ones have it on the back (closer to the firewall).... If you have the early one, be prepared as they are almost twice the price of the later ones, that's why so many people change the lines around underneath..

7/8's were used up until 78. The 15/16's were used on the ZX's starting in 79 IIRC. You can use either one on a later 240 but you will need to check your 71 and see if it is an early style or a later style. The early style had the reservoirs reversed, which means either using the original style or you'll have to change the plumbing of the lines underneath the master to correct. 15/16's are the master of choice when doing a 4 piston caliper or 4 wheel brake upgrade.

Here's one of the few places that offer the conversion. http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=32&products_id=46

Seems like a long time ago I remember reading an article in Road and Track, or Motor Trend or one of those magazines about the Highway patrol in one of the southwest states that used Z31 Turbo's on the interstates. Seems like it was AZ, NM, OK or Texas...long before they went to Mustangs and Camaro's.... Anyone else remember that?

Just an off the wall thought here George, but you seem to be saying you here it in reverse more than in a forward gear is that correct? I'm wondering if it might be wear and/or play in the ring and pinion that is being amplified through the rest of the driveline. Have you taken the rear cover off the diff since you got the car and taken a look to see if the ring gear is showing any signs of gauling in the teeth? It could also be looseness in the slip joints in either the driveshaft or one of the half shafts as well. Just a couple other things to take a look at while you are under the car. BTW, I can't remember if you said if this car has an LSD in it or not... could also be that the LSD is causing some of the noise as well..... if it is shimmed tight, it would put a lot of stress on the rest of the driveline and make seemingly insignificant wear make more noise than it would with an open rear..... and conversely if it were shimmed to loosely, it could be locking up and causing the noises through the driveline if it locks up while there is some stress on the driveline such as while turning.