2ManyZs

You've got the right idea, get the mechanicals in order before you try to get it running again. I'd advise rebuilding or replacing all the wheel cylinders/calipers as the seals probably are no good with the amount of moisture that is probably in the system. Same goes for both the master cylinders. Replace the rubber brake lines for sure. I'd also replace most if not all the rubber hoses on the engine and flush the radiator thoroughly. I would take off the valve cover and pour in some fresh oil over the cam and valve train to lube the valve seals and change the oil before you start it up, as it probably has a lot of condensation in it from sitting. I would also check very carefully for any rust that may have formed or spread while it has been sitting on the undercariage. 14 years is quite a while. That ought to keep you busy for a few weeks... let us know if you have any more questions before you fire it up.

According to the info on www.zhome, the 303 Green metallic was used from 8/73- 7/75. The 302 leaf Green Metallic was used from 8/73 on so it looks like they had two different shades of green metallic on the 260-280's.

Shame no one met him in the driveway toting a 12 gauge.... That would might wake his stupid butt up...:devious: Hmm, wonder what he'd do if someone on that board got PO'd and called the cops on him? Hey Rice Boy, if you are going to be a thief, don't brag about it! Like the boy that was bragging about running the crap out of someone's car on another board not long ago eh?

I'd bolt it on, then pour a quart of fresh oil over the cam and valves to lube the cam and let it soak into the valve seals for a day, then fire it up. You could also let it soak with a light coat of oil for a couple days before you install it just to soften up the valve seals.

Easy fix for someone who knows what they are doing... if the rust is in an area that replacement panels are available, it shouldn't be a problem. It's the areas like under the battery tray that are the difficult ones since panels have to be made by hand. If the rail is weak, replacing the whole floor section and rail with the good ones from MSA or Zedd Findings and you'll never have to worry about them again. Looks like it might be a candidate for a patch panel, but you can't really determine that until you get it thoroughly cleaned and check the perimeter....

Try some stuff called Goo-Gone, you can find it at most hardware stores and at Wal-Mart. I had some glue residue on the vinyl floor of my camper when I bought it from the plastic carpet saver the dealer had installed, I tried alcohol, lighter fluid, and a few other things... the only thing that got it off was the Goo-Gone.... and it shoudn't hurt the vinyl at all..... and it doesn't smell too bad either.....

This one looks pretty darn nice... it isn't local and the interior is black... but you could always change the interior color for not too much if you don't have to put a lot into other things.... The VIN is one of the lowest I've seen on Ebay in a while too.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2424163055&category=6187

The part number I found on the microfiche is 38311-E4600... and it is for the rear end housing only........ All the diffs have an aluminum rear cover... so that answers those questions..... I think if you pull the rear cover you should find some numbers on the ring gear.. if you find a 37 it is definately a 3.36

The body kit such as the Subtle Z kit would only replace the front fenders and hood. The rear quarters are bonded on top of the stock quarters. So, if the chassis is rusted in the rockers, chances are it's also into the rear quarters, dog legs, and perhaps even the floor pans, which means you would have a lot of repair work to do in order to have a solid chassis to mount the kit on. The outer shell of the car in the rear quarters is a very large part of the uni-body, so if that is compromised by rust, you will be looking at either repairing it, or taking a chance on the car being unsafe sooner or later. My opinion, keep looking for a good chassis before you worry about getting a parts car. I think most of us have made the mistake of buying a car without checking it over completely, only to end up parting it out when we discover hidden problems.

Glad they don't have laws like that here... be odd seeing a Viper with the same size tires both front and rear, or Vettes, or.....hmm, lots of cars here have different size tires front to rear....or does this only apply to older cars or all cars?

Guess their proofreader took a break when that page was checked huh? That wasn't the only typo I found on the page.. just hope the measurements are correct....

Look good to me..... only thing that might be a small problem is the offset, you'd have to be careful not to buy too wide a tire or you might have a bit of a rub at the fender lip. For instance, you might have to go with a 205 or 215 instead of a 225 or 235, of course a lot of it would depend on the profile you select too.. 50,55,60 or whatever.... Personally, the Gunmetal color is my favorite, it goes well with nearly any body color. I wish Panasport would do theirs in a slightly darker shade....

The bolts should be torqued to 17 1/2 to 19ft/lbs... and yes, they clutch pressure plate better be bottomed against the flywheel or you're going to have a vibration and a clutch that isn't going to last long.. make sure the pressure plate doesn't hang up on the dowel pins or any rust around the bottom of the dowel pins or you will deform the pressure plate housing.

Ok, now I can answer the question.. I thinkLOL I was just curious about why they wanted to know the spec on the valve stem height... since it is never really going to be one specific height due to the tolerances on the valve stem lenght, etc. etc. The counterbore for the seat should be the same as the thickness of the insert, simple isn't it? Counterbore depth will be about 6.7mm for the intakes, and 7.4mm for the exhaust. Funny, the book has a misprint when giving the measurement in inches.. it says .0266in for intake and .293 for exhaust... hmm, have to figure out which on has the decimal in the wrong place....:stupid: Now, do you need the diameter of the counterbore? Here's what I got. The interference fit for intakes is .0032-.0044 in or .081-.113mm. For exhaust it's .0025-.0038in The interference fit is determined by the nominal diameter of the valve seat insert MINUS the specified interference fit measurement. For instance, if an intake valve seat insert measures 1.792in(45.5mm), subtract the specified nominal interference of .0038in (.097mm). Using this example, 1.792-.0038=1.754in (45.6mm) FWIW, if the valve seat counterbore is not within spec, valve seat insert can be had in a .020 oversize diameter but the valve seat counterbore would then need to be machined to the proper size for th eoversize insert to be installed (using the same formula above).

Not really sure what the question they have is.... The valve stem length above the surface of the head? What does that have to do with installing the seats? There are so many variables involved in even specifying a certain length that the point would be moot IMO.... The only spec length I can think of would be the compressed spring length after the valve springs are installed, but still, that shouldn't have anything to do with installing the seats.. unless what they are needing is the spec for the valve guide, and how much is is supposed to sit above the head surface.... Maybe we should get Phred into this, as he is our "resident engine guru".....

I'd be happy to have a shop like that to work in... one with room to move around...

Kinda hard to guess at the width on the white car, but I'd say either 7.5 to 9 inches... 8 inch would probably be a good size for the rear, but I'm wondering if you can run the same size all around. Maybe 7 in the front and 8 in the back? FWIW, I like the green and gold car better....:devious: looks like it has close to 10 wide in the back and maybe 8 to 9 in the front.... be nice to take that one for a "test drive".....:cross-eye

Well, the nut may not be loose per se... but, after the bearings begin to wear, the nut no longer will put the proper preload on the bearings which will contribute to even more wear and tear on the bearings... I'm not sure what's going on, but it doesn't sound good....

Being able to turn the hub while the half shaft doesn't move sounds a bit scary.. sounds like you are heading for a catastrophic failure.....:disappoin I'd pull both stub axles, and see what is going one before you drive it again. I don't think the stub axle is snapped off, but it sounds like it might be the nut has come loose, allowing play in the bearings and the inside flange is starting to take out the splines on the stub axle. That's only a guess, but either way, I'd pull them ASAP. If you saw a pic of what happens to a Z in a turn when something breaks and you suddenly are only driving one rear wheel.. you'd know what I mean. That's what happened to the IT car sitting in my garage.... lost control under braking and went nearly head on into a dirt embankment.... :tapemouth

Doubt it... too many small connectors are different between the two. Hmm, I've got a 72 for parts but as yet I don't know what it looks like behind the dash. Or you could try these guys and see if the might have one for a 72... http://www.zstopnshop.com/Parts_Bin.html

Do a search in the forums for spindle pin bushings, you should find numerous posts on the little buggers.... you aren't the first one to have trouble.....

Guess we can enter those into our Septic/Ozzie dictionary huh? Hoon= Ricer Bogan= Redneck

The ZX flange isn't going to work on the stock R-180 if that is what you are trying to do. If you want to use the ZX driveshaft, you could have a good driveline shop swap swap over the front U-joint over onto the stock 240 driveshaft, might be a bit expensive since they'd have to cut the old one off, weld on the ZX piece and then re-balance the entire driveshaft.

Carl is probably too busy trying to find his checkbook so he can get his reservation for the next hunt.... :devious:

The adjustment is on the clevis that attaches to the top of the clutch pedal, yup, under the dash where it's tough to get to... You'll need to pull the pin out of the pedal to adjust after you loosen the lock nut. Hmm, 1/4 inch seems a bit low, usually mine have always started to engage more like 3/4 to an inch off the stop. The free travel on the clutch pedal should be 10 to 20mm, which is free travel before it begins to move the rod to the master cylinder, which is attached to the clevis