2ManyZs

Holes would be reversed... if you look under it, you'll see where the wiper arms would mount on a RHD, otherwise they are the same as far as how they mount.

Two places that I know that have them available. http://www.midwestz.com/ http://www.cybersanford.net/ I bought a pair from midwestz for about 25 bucks. I think cybersanfords price is just a little higher. Hmm, too slow wasn't I?

Here's a real old pic of the car when Dan(yellow shirt) still was a rookie, this would have been either 86 or perhaps early 87.

Have either of you double checked the clutch pedal adjustment? Make sure the height of the pedal is correct in order to get the full travel of the slave cylinder, that is if you don't have the adjustable slave cylinder, the pedal height will be the only adjustment to make sure the travel is correct on the slave cylinder to completely engage the clutch. Lot of times, the grinding going into reverse is either because of a weak clutch or the adjustment being off, and not fully engaging the clutch. Pedal height should be 8 inches off the floor measured in a diagonal to the floor at a right angle to the clutch pedal pad. Just a thought....

Here's the only pic I have of the car when Wayne owned it, hard to see it with him all over my back bumper though....:cross-eye Probably taken either in 93 or 94.

Maybe you should try to talk Jeff into buying it for his son.. Hate to see it in the shape it's in, but the one I've got isn't much better, it's got the left front corner smashed when it was ran into the bank in turn 10 quite a few years ago. Funny thing is, I just e-mailed Jeff (not sure if his e-mail address is still the same since he moved)to tell him the car was for sale, thought maybe he might be interested in it for parts or to fix it up....:stupid: We were just talking about the car at the track at Marrs 1 this year when I saw him. Kinda reminiscing about the good old days when the Z's ruled the track... I was running a 75 280 when Dan still owned the car and remember racing with Wayne as well, seems they always lapped me on the final lap at most races when I was still a rookie....

Hmm, so that's where it ended up. Jeff Lucas said it got wrecked but I didn't know where it had ended up. Car won the Marrs championship in 89 or 90 if I remember right when Dan owned it. In fact, I've got the rear diff that he was using to cheat with....:devious: Somewhere around here I've got some pics of the car back in the early 90's when Dan owned it.

Rolf, I'm not too good with carbs.. but here goes what I read in the FSM about setting the needle in the suction piston. What you want to do is to take a straightedge and lay it horizontally on the bottom of the suction piston and set the needle height when the needle shoulder is even with the bottom of the piston. In other words, set the straightedge across the bottom of the suction piston and when the shoulder of the needle contacts the straightedge, this is when you set the needle adjusting screw. It should be level with the bottom of the suction piston bottom. Now on to the float setting, for some reason the FSM I have referrences a diagram yet it doesn't give the dimension in the diagram...:stupid: But, here's is what it says about setting the float level. With the float chamber on the bench, take off the cover and with it lying on the bench with the float lever side up. Lift up the float lever with the tip of your finger and then slowly lower it. Stop lowering when the float lever seat just comes into contact with the valve stem. I'm just guessing here, but I take it to mean that the float level is correct when the top of the float is 14 to 15mm from the bottom of the cover. This is the dimension that isn't in the diagram so I'm just guessing at this. The dimension that is specified in the diagram is 23mm from the shoulder of the float to the bottom of the cover. As far as there being a difference in the float levels, I don't see any reason why they should not be the same, but perhaps over time one of the arms has gotten bent slightly(maybe someone else was tinkering with it at one time?). If you have the float levels different, I would believe it would almost be impossible to truly synch the carbs correctly because one would be inherently running leaner than the other. Hope that helps.....

Chuck, I saw the auction and was just curious as to whose car that used to be. I'm wondering if I knew the prevous owner or if I had raced with that car at Summit back in the "good old days" of ITS.... If I didn't already have one sitting in my garage in nearly the same condition(R. Thomas' old car) I would by it just for the parts, but alas, my garage is already full....:disappoin

Well, that settles that.... was going to go out and look under the dash of mine but hated to pull all the parts out of the way to get under there.... Hmm, looks like I had the order right too.... what a guess huh?

The only thing I see in the electrical diagram with that color combo is the horn relay. Not sure which way it is mounted so that I would know which way the wires are connected but the G/R shows in the center with the G on the right and G/B on the left. Guess you could hook up the G/R in the center position and try the others one way then the other till the horn works. Doubt it is related to your taillight problem, but it sounds like that might possibly be a ground problem at the rear if the front signals work when you use the flashers.

Not sure without a pic, but it sounds like you are talking about the bottom of the front strut tower where it ends at the bottom, right? Just below the engine compartment ID tag? This is a common area for rust. The water enters the strut tower and then goes to the bottom where there is no escape. Not a hard place to fix. But, beware if it has gotten down near the area where the inner fender welds to the frame rail at the flange (when looking from outside the engine compartment behind the tire), if it is that far down, the frame rail is more than likely affected. I had one car that looked to have a small area, but after a little poking and prodding, I could put my hand all the way into the engine compartment through the frame rail.:disappoin If you have rust in that area, be sure to check the frame rails, under the battery, rockers, and the dog leg where the rocker ends at the rear wheel well.

Hmm, isn't that a coincidence... the guy that wrote that lives in the same town I was born and grew up in....wonder if he still lives there...and I just spent a week there the end of June, no more than a mile from his address...... I'm hearing the theme song from "The Twilight Zone" in my head now....

By the look on your face Rick, I think you were having just a little too much fun with that torch....

There's a thread somewhere around here that had a pic of how to bend the one rod to improve the throttle feel, but I'll be darned if I can find it now....:stupid: I'm fairly sure Daniel posted the pic... but my memory is getting worse by the day too.....:cross-eye

If you look between the carbs, you should find 2 springs that are attached to the linkage and down to a small hook on the carb heat shield. If there aren't 2, you might want to find a pair the right length at the local hardware store. Also, it never hurts to pull the plastic ball sockets on the linkage apart and clean and lube them with some light grease. Also, pull the E clip off the top of the linkage bellcrank on the firewall and clean and lube that also. Sounds like it could be a combination of too light a spring and/or linkage that needs to be cleaned and lubed.

Check your PM's Marty... may have your answer... maybe not....

And to take a quote from her signature line.... We're not worthy..... :disappoin

It's only when I think of how costly the upgrades are for a Z32 that makes me stop and think about it.... first thing I did was looked up the prices of what I'd more than likely want to do to the car.. and:cross-eye boy, is some of that stuff expensive...:tapemouth

Well, I can say I know how you feel... but it wasn't because she smiled at me :disappoin Ken Lewis stopped here on his way home from the Tidewater show and twisted my arm into taking his Z32 for a drive, even though I didn't want to because I knew if I drove one I would probably want one.... guess what.. I was right. Been watching the Z32's on Ebay ever since. Everytime I see a burgundy one with a grey velour interior, it takes a lot of willpower not to place a bid....:tapemouth Maybe when I get either a bigger garage or just clean out one bay of the one I have... finish off the collection with an early one Z and one of the last.

Mark, I'm not trying to criticize... but if you were to download those pics into your gallery, anyone having a question about how the backside of the dash looks(for wiring purposes or whatever) would be able to find them easier. Lot better than trying to find the link to the thread... Not sure, but I think you have more choices now in your gallery so you could seperate your pics according to what the pics subject are. :classic:

Hmm, I'd be willing to bet it is... he probably unhooked the one in the radio and replaced it with a switch from a later model... it looks just like the one that was in my 73 I had, mounted on the A/C pod on the side of the console....

Just one more thought.... since you have a fuel cell and I presume an electric pump, do you have a pressure regulator in the line? I'm thinking that you possibly are running fuel pressure too high and that is what has caused the problem with the SU's... perhaps you haven't done any damage other than just flooding the float bowls....You only need about 5-7 pounds of fuel pressure if I remember correctly. Just a thought... one that is quite often overlooked too..

The only switch like that on a Z car would be the electric antenna switch that would normally be mounted in the stock radio faceplate. Did the PO put an aftermarket stereo in? If so, then he probably needed a place to mount the switch for the antenna....

If you have a question, or want info, search through our forums.. if someone else hasn't asked the question, well, start a thread and ask.....If you look you should find multiple answer to many of the most common questions such as where to look for rust, and where to find parts to repair them.... We've covered nearly everything at least once....well, almost everything.... Welcome and happy reading.:cross-eye Yep, you'll look kinda like this if you read all the threads and all the responses....