2ManyZs

Look in our gallery in the Racing gallery, you should find numerous pics of cages in our members cars as well as others. http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=505 One of our members builds cages and could probably help, his username is "hmsports" Or, you could buy one that is already to weld in such as one from Kirk Racing Products. Everyone has different cage designs, so finding what suits you is a matter of taste as well as budget.

I looked up the piston numbers in my Nismo catalog, and the ring set is number 12033-P8610 Where to find them may be another story all together... You might try Top End Performance, Rebello, or one of the other engine builders as they may either have a supplier or a compatible set that will work with these pistons.

The twice pipes come with mufflers, but they are only small diameter glass packs. As the fiberglass burns out, it will continue to get louder and louder. I had a set on my first 240 with the stock exhaust manifold and loved it until the mufflers started to burn out, then it got way to loud. Neighbor up the street used to call the cops on me at least once a week, it was legal, but just barely. In the end, it was almost as loud as a friends race car with dual straight pipes. The "with header" doesn't include a header, only a different head pipe to be used with a header, instead of the stock manifold.

This one sounds like it's in worst shape chassis wise than my 72 parts car, but, it could be a gold mine for parts for another early car if the price is right. If I remember right, this one may have been the one that was auctioned off on Ebay that was up around Utica, NY. I remember there was a very early car up for auction that was close to one of my relatives and thought seriously about having them go take a quick "look-see". Good thing the one I just bought was a race car project when I bought it, or I'd have to consider this one for parts to put 809 back on the street. I've got too many now as it is....:stupid:

IIRC, Burt lived not far out on Long Island, and that's where Rockville Center happens to be.... Be willing to bet this is his car. He hasn't posted here since 03.

I'll have to check with him and find out if these are still available new and where to get them. It's good they are from a TR-6, cuz that's what he specializes in...

I think I've seen this car up for auction before and it didn't sell. With the amount of rust he describes, it may end up as a parts car for the original parts that are still good. There's some pieces he describes as being rusty or rusted through that are going to take a lot of work to replace, and some will need to be fabricated. Hoses rotted off the engine tell me that it not only will need a full chassis resto, but a mechanical one as well from front to back.

Since this is the Racing Forum, it has nothing to do with street cars anyways, unless someone just has to have it. If you find out which cars these can be sourced for, I've got a friend that is into restoring old Triumph's that might have a source for these, hopefully new ones. Who needs to go to a JY, I've got at least a dozen T/C rods either in boxes or on parts cars....:cross-eye

Check valve should have an arrow on it, it goes into the firewall bracket with the arrow pointed towards the Master-Vac.

The VIN number won't tell anything. The only way to confirm the original paint if the paint code sticker is not on the top of the radiator support would be to look in the interior. Look under the dash on the firewall and see what the original color was, or under the seats, carpet etc... IIRC the paint code for the Black Pearls was 638 if part of the paint code sticker is still visible.

TWM has airboxes as well, and they've got most everything else to build an induction system that looks very similar.... that is, if you've got the green.:cross-eye Just the airbox is 400 for an L-6....:disappoin http://www.twminduction.com/airbox.htm

I saw where Arizona Z Car is again making some of their fiberglass parts, but, they won't ship unless your order is above their minimum, whatever that is..... Not sure if they have a vented hood similar to the late 280 hoods or not. Reaction Research has cowl induction hoods.

I see a couple things that would make me take a serious look at the asking price.... First and most importantly is that bra on black paint! It looks like it doesn't fit properly, and more than likely flaps in the wind, which will screw up a paint job in no time. Be sure to have the bra taken off and look underneath! The engine bay being another color other than black, would make me take a serious look at the rest of the body work and paint work. If they are too cheap to pull the engine and paint the bay, did they cut corners somewhere else as well? The only good thing about the black paint, is that it is almost impossible to hide shoddy body work under black without it showing up like a neon sign. Non matching plastic in the interior is a small problem, but will cost quite a bit to make right. I'd take a serious look at the underside, just to be sure the floors and rails are in good condition. I'd also look at the suspension, it looks to have been lowered, but was it done correctly or did they just hack off the stock springs.... Looks pretty good, but, until the questions are answered, there's no way to give a good opinion on their asking price. I'd say it's in the "ballpark", but, it could end up being about 1K too high or more depending on the results of an "up close" inspection.

If "Bob" goes for more than a 4 hour trip while "living large" in his pseudo-Ferrari, will he need to go to the emergency room? The body kit looks fair, but having the stock interior makes it look pretty darn cheap..... Car is only half finished with the original interior.

They look very similar to the Appliance mags I had at one time. Definately aftermarket.

Hmm, I did the same thing as Mike, read it so fast I completely missed where you said you did the MC last.:stupid: MC has to be done first or any air that may be trapped will either stay in the MC or end up in the lines, calipers or the rear cylinders.

The parking brake trick works from the "off" position, it will take up the slack in the rear shoes (if they aren't adjusted tight enough) and give you a harder pedal feel as the shoes won't be moving as far to contact the drum. The pedal height should be 8 inches from the floor at rest. Measure it to the flat of the pedal pad, and make your adjustments on the piston at the pedal clevis. If the adjustment was off just a little before the change, it could be that it's affecting the travel just enough that it isn't moving enough fluid due to having the 2 extra pistons to pressurize. The MC woudn't "go bad" during an upgrade, but it could be the MC wasn't 100% and needing the extra fluid movement has only exaggerated the slight problem it may have had. IMO, upgrading to the larger MC is always a good idea when you upgrade to the 4 piston calipers or swapping for rear discs, or both.

Guess the obvious question is how old is the master cylinder? If it's fairly new, then the next obvious thing would be the adjustment on the pedal. If the master could be suspect, I'd go with a 15/16th's master from the ZX. You're asking the stock master to pressurize the lines now with 2 extra pistons in front, which will need a bit more fluid than the originals. Try pulling the handbrake up a notch or two, and see if the pedal feels better, if it does, then the rear shoes aren't adjusted correctly and need to be tightened up. Those are the most obvious things that I can think of.

The ones for the 84-88 200SX with the R-180 should work, as well as the later 280Z and 280ZX's with the R-180's (auto's I believe) and some Maxima's and 810's also had the 180 rear. Not sure about the later 720 4X4 pickups, they may also have used the circlip on the front diffs.

FWIW, those threads were posted here as well about James, and since they were a personal attack on one of our members, they were deleted. We've never allowed those kind of attacks in the forums here, and never will.

I don't have any idea what nationality, hair color, or shape would be, but she'd definately be high maintenance :tapemouth

Ya have to wonder if the hairy guy wearing his "wife-to-be's" wedding dress in another Ebay auction is/was married to this one... guess he must have gotten caught with a girl on the side, or else he just like to cross-dress.... :devious:

This the one your talking about Mike? http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=7801&highlight=build+dates There's a couple other rather lengthy threads concering build dates, easy enough to find just using "build dates" in the search box.