2ManyZs

It all depends on what you are planning on doing to the engine in the way of performance mods... Basically stock, with no internal changes, I'd go with the SU's or the stock FI from a 280. Changing compression ratio, cam and a few other mods like a good ignition system, I'd go with the Mikuni's. FWIW, yes, the stock Bosch L-Jetronic is reliable and would really be smooth and all, but if you plan on any performance mods it is restricted in its modifications you can do. Bigger throttle body and a couple other small mods and that's about it. It's not like the programmable injection systems that are now available, which will cost you at least what you have already invested in the Mikuni's or more than likely even more. With an aftermarket programmable system, you could do most anything you wanted with the engine up to the limit of your wallet. Since you already have the Mikuni's, I think I'd just swap in a little hotter cam and have the head rebuilt, put in a hotter ignition and have at it, it might take a little time to adjust the carbs correctly, but once set, they'll be fine.

You might be better off to find a complete Turbo engine if you really want to do it right and have less headaches with setting up the engine, and it might cost less in the long run. If you run the Turbo on the stock L-28 you are going to be running compression that's just a little higher than the Turbo engines did, which would mean you would have to be especially careful with your ignition, as any amount of detonation could be terminal. If I remember right without looking it up, the Turbo engines ran around a 7.8:1 compression ratio while your L-28 is around 8.3 or so..... The other plus of using the complete Turbo engine would be that you would have the stronger F-54 block.

564 isn't a bad price with shipping... have you tried shox.com? The adjustable coil-overs will cost you about double that, plus require a lot of welding and labor to install, so this would be the best solution if you don't plan on making any permanent modifications... Adjustable coil-overs are only really necessary when you are trying to fit wheels with a lot of backspacing and need the room for the wheel and tire to clear by using a smaller diamater spring, or going to be doing some more serious racing.

Yeah, if you are lucky it is only held on by double sided adhesive tape, if you are unlucky.... it might be pop riveted on.. Take a hair dryer and warm one end of it and see if you can pry it off with a putty knife. If you are concerned about saving the paint, try using a plastic spatula or something similar to avoid gouging the paint. If it's riveted on, you should be able to remove the rubber part of the rub strip and then drill out the rivets that are holding on the moulding. Of course, then you've got to weld up the holes...:disappoin

I'd say they need to call it the 350ZX, cuz the X could stand for Ex-Lax, as in looks like sh..

I believe they were made standard somewhere in the 72 model year. My 73 had the front mounts but no bar, but the one 72 I have here has an aftermarket rear mounting bar on it. Don't know about the other one in the backyard and it's too wet to go crawling under it to see... The front mounting bars are the ones the factory put on, the rear ones are the aftermarket supplied bars. Nissan Comp had both depending on whether your car had the front mounts or not if I remember right.... No sense in having two... two small ones aren't going to act any different than one... it's the size of the bar that matters. Guess we could do a little detective work with Vin numbers and see about when the front mounts were put on the chassis, as the production changes on zhome doesn't say anything about the rear sway bar.

It could be a combination of a few things... tire choice, weak strut cartridges, soft springs, bad bushings.... The bounce test is good for checking the compression of the strut, not the rebound... it is not a fail-safe test as your struts may seem OK, but are still weakened by normal wear and tear. I'd start out by replacing the strut cartridges, then the strut bushings. Take it one step at a time and you'll find the problem. I would suggest that if you are going to replace the strut cartridges, you might as well go all the way and do the bushings while it apart, save you time and aggravation later. If the problem still exists after you change the strut cartridges and bushings, it could be your tire choice, or maybe even the need for a different sway bar on the rear (if you have one now that is).

This is why it is so tough being a man.... sad, but true.... If you put a woman on a pedestal and try to protect her from the rat race, you're a male chauvinist. If you stay home and do the housework, you're a wimp. If you work too hard, there is never any time for her. If you don't work enough, you're a good-for-nothing bum. If she has a boring repetitive job with low pay, this is exploitation. If you have a boring repeptitive job with low pay, you should get off your butt and find something better. If you get a promotion ahead of her, that is favoritism. If she get a promotion ahead of you, it's equal oportunity. If you metion how nice she looks, it's sexual harassment.' If you keep quiet, it's male indifference. If you cry, you're a wimp. If you don't, you're an insensitive bastard. If you thump her, it's wife bashing. If she thumps you, it's self-defense. If you make a decision without consulting her, you're a chauvinist. If she make a decision without you, she's a liberated woman. If you ask her to do something she doesn't enjoy, that's domination. If she asks you, it's a favor. If you appreciate the female form and frilly underwear, you're a pervert. If you don't, you're possibly gay. If you like a woman to shave her legs and keep in shape, you're a sexist. If you don't, you're unromantic. If you try to keep yourself in shape, you're vain. If you don't, you're a slob. If you buy her flowers, you're after something. If you don't, you're not thoughful. If you're proud of your achievements, you're full of yourself. If you don't, you're not ambitious enough. If she has a headache, she's tired. If you have a headache, you don't love her anymore. If you want it too often, you're over-sexed. If you don't, there must be someone else. No wonder men don't live as long as women. They can't deal with the pressure!

Well, I've got a set of the MSA carpets.... but they are still in the box waiting for the car to be finished, been waiting for 4 years to have a car to put them in.....:stupid: Look good in the box..... Don't forget, you can also purchase carpet from Too Intense as well, I believe Kmack bought one of Troy's carpet kits so you could ask him how well it fit and how he likes it..... Remeber guys, you can get a 10% discount if you buy from Too Intense, and hopefully he will continue to advertise and help support our site.:classic:

Must be a Geocities thing... cuz now it's back up again....:stupid:

Bryan Little was the one who did it all if I'm not mistaken... Geez, it was just last week I was reading some info on there... hope it isn't lost forever....:disappoin There are link to that site on the Datsun Garage site.. maybe he would be able to tell you how to contact him and perhaps he'd let us host it for him?

Here's the right link.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2415000037&category=42612

The best thing to do would be to convert the struts to a 2 1/2 inch adjustable coil-over set-up. That way, you can adjust the ride height to compensate for any possible tire rub on the fender lip and you'll gain quite a bit of space to fit the wheels without hitting the spring perch or spring. Then if you still have a problem, you can use the thinnest spacer required for more clearance. The spacers have been debated here quite a bit, the best thing I can say is never use any thicker spacer than is absolutely necessary, the thinner the better. It's either that or sell the wheels and find a set of 16 inch wheels with the correct backspacing...

Well, yes, anything can be chromed... but why chrome something that is somewhat flexible as chrome plating is not and will only crack and peel in time...... As far as what color to paint a fiberglass bumper... that's a matter of opinion. Body color, grey, or a satin black would all look pretty good with your color. A lot depends on the body color... in your case, I think the taillight panel grey or satin black would look best but that's just my opinion.....

If the floor pans are in good shape other than the one spot that is rusted out, you might also consider patching the spot on the floor, and replacing only the under floor rail which you can get from Zedd Findings. Seriously though, the best thing to do is to get under there and find out what is or is not hiding under the undercoating before you go any further... Looks to be quite a good coating of undercoat on the car, so you may or may not have more rust than you think you have.

If you are talking about the diamond stitched vinyl, the best place to get it would probably be http://www.classicdatsun.com/ They can also provide the replacement plastic interior panels as well.

Keyword to using a hammer was "tapping"..... I've done it many times with no trouble... just tap it lightly around the perimeter and let it seat a little at a time...

Hardest part about replacing a rear main seal is getting the old one out...... You can use a screwdriver driven into the thickest part of the seal and pry it out, or you might need a crows foot, but it will come out one way or t'other.... When you put the new one in, put a little oil on your finger and coat the inner lip and outside of the seal so it will slip into place a little easier. If you don't have a seal driver big enough, just slowly tap it into place with a hammer, going around the outside edge evenly or use a block of wood, just make sure it goes in fairly evenly....

Before you end up spending money over and over on alignments, you need to find out what is wrong with the suspension and steering in the first place and replace any worn out parts. First on the list is wheel bearings, then tie rod ends, ball joints, steering rack bushings and steering coupler. After you have checked and/or replaced these items you can then get the alignment done and it more than likely cure 95% or more of your problems. The last thing to do is have it aligned and replace the worn out tires. If you are wearing out the inside edge of the tire it sounds like it is toed out. I always set my Z's to 0 to 1 1/8 toe out but no more than that.

Andy doesn't have his site up yet... last time I talked with him he was working on getting his real estate license and was planning on the parts business as a hobby or side job part time. Not sure if he's going to finish his web-site or not to tell the truth. He does have the front "euro" steel bumper and the end pieces for the rear. You'll have to get the center piece of the rear from Zedd Findings in Canada as they aren't available in the US unless they get them through Charlie or have other contacts in Canada. As far as chroming fiberglass.. not sure that can even be done. Anyone who wants Andy's price list can PM me with your e-mail address and I'll send you a copy, or e-mail him direct and get it from him.

Hey Enrique.. he wouldn't have that problem with no wheels if he hadn't given away his "Love Bug" huh? 2350 is a fair price to pay for a chassis.. cuz the first thing that would come off would be the body and start all over....:devious:

You might be ahead to get as much as possible of it... never know when you might need a gauge, wiring harness section... or someone else might be willing to pay you for one.:devious: Take an extra day maybe... but if you have a place to put it, I'd take everything off it I could... especially since parts are harder to come by "Down Under".......

You could try Andy Russell, e-mail him at z@datsundude.com His price on the new front bumper is one of the best, under 300... as for the rubber strips, overrider and bumper guards you'll have to contact him..

From where you are at right now, the easiest thing to do is to unbolt the driveshaft at the flange on the backside of the hub as it will let the control arm swing down even further and be a lot easier than trying to stand on the brake drum to extend the driveshaft at the slip joint. Then go inside and just loosen the nut in the middle that is on the top of the strut cartridge, don't take it all the way off, just loosen it. Then remove the 3 nuts that are holding the top hat of the strut to the mount in the body, then let the whole thing just swing down when you remove the last of the 3 nuts(be careful of your shins as it will drop quickly) and then you can take off the top hat by removing the center nut after you compress the spring. You shouldn't have to compress the spring just to drop the strut housing, but if you want to, you can just put two clamps on as well as you can and compress it as much as possible. The only time you want to mess with the spindle is if you are going to be replacing the spindle pin bushings.. and you'll probably find this to be a nasty, rotten job.. there are numerous threads about it if you search for them.