2ManyZs

For one thing, you say you have a glass pack, and there can be one of your problems.... The longer it is in use, the more the fiberglass packing burns up and it continuously will get louder and louder.... You might try one of the Turbo mufflers with the baffles, such as Flowmaster, Dynomax and some of the others are selling today, they have no glass packing to burn out ever so the tone should stay pretty even over the life of the muffler. You say you have a small Turbo muffler, is it oval or round? Does it have more than one chamber? One of these days, I'll find out how a Flowmaster 2 1/2 in, 3 chamber with 2 1/2 inch pipes and a 2 1/2 in bullet style race muffler for a resonator sounds.....Gotta get the car back together first...:stupid:

My personal pick is the four row radiators that MSA offers...Not a lot more expensive than the 3 row and still probably cheaper than most of the aftermarket aluminum ones on the market. Only other one I'd try is an aluminum radiator for a Chevy (don't bother with the 280 radiator as the size is not that much different to make it worth while)... they have the inlet and outlets on the right sides, but you may have to do some tubing-hose mods to get them to line up... I used the 4 row from MSA in my IT car, with only a small electric fan for when I was sitting in the pits idling. Never even had a fan shoud on it and it usually ran 190-210 even when the outside air temp was in the 90-100 degree range, of course that was a bit higher speeds than street driving....:devious:

If your rockers are even the slightest bit compromised by rust on the inside, you'll end up crumpling the body work! Safest and most secure methods would be either the control arm mounts in the rear, the frame rail that runs across behind where the floor turns up to meet the inner rear fender or the suspension crossmember that connects the rear mounts of the lower control arms in the rear. Front would be the best if you used the suspension crossmember just behind the steering rack. Whatever you do, don't put a jackstand or jack under the floors or on the rocker panel flange. Always use a major frame rail or a suspension mount whenever possible.

Zmecruise.... I love it.... I'm also jealous I didn't think of it ........:devious:

THE AL GORE Virus... (Causes your computer to just keep counting.) THE CLINTON Virus.. (Gives you a 7-Inch Hard Drive with NO memory.) THE BOB DOLE (AKA: VIAGRA) virus... (Makes a new hard drive out of an old floppy.) THE RONALD REAGAN virus... (Saves your data, but forgets where it is stored.) THE JESSE JACKSON virus... (Warns you constantly about illegitimate file reproduction, while illegitimately reproducing files in the background.) THE MIKE TYSON virus.. (Quits after two bytes.) THE OPRAH WINFREY virus.. (Your 300 mb hard drive shrinks to 100 mb, then slowly expands to re-stabilize around 200mb.) THE JACK KEVORKIAN virus. (Deletes all old files.) THE PROZAC virus... (Totally screws up your RAM, but your processor doesn't care.) THE JOEY BUTTAFUOCO virus... (Only attacks minor files.) THE ARNOLD SCHWARZENEGGER virus... (Terminates some files, leaves, but will be back.) And last but not least.... THE LORENA BOBBITT virus... (Reformats your hard drive into a 3.5 inch floppy, then discards it through Windows.)

A lot of it could be in your tire tread design. What kind of tires do you have and have you changed the sway bars at all? I raced in the rain, and a lot of it depends on your tire choice and your choice of sway bars. Since I doubt you have a welded rear you can rule that one out....:tapemouth A Z should be pretty good in the rain in stock form with the right tires on it. Tire choices are almost as critical in wet weather as they are(or would be if you had to deal with it) as choosing a set of snow tires.

ROFL Guess I don't have to say anything do I?:stupid: I think mar2c's reply sums it up pretty good.....:devious:

Doubt if hot or cold would make much difference in the noise since it's not really a clearance issue. It's more of a valve closing issue that is making a lot of the noise since they are closing too rapidly because the cam lobe is running off the end of the rocker like that. Once you get this straightened out, I'd say the performance of the car ought to increase since you are not getting near the proper duration of the cam and only half the valves are truly in time with the engine.

It is probably running off the cold start valve(injector) in the front of the manifold. When you had the fuel line hooked up it was running rich(which would be correct in a cold start situation as it acts as a choke), and when you unhooked the fuel line it was running only on the cold start injector. You'll find it near the front of the manifold on the top.... unhook the wiring harness and then start the car with the fuel line hooked up and see what it does. It could be the temp sensor is bad, or the cold start valve itself. Temp sensor is located in the thermostat housing, there are two if I remember right, one for the temp sensor and one for the water temp gauge.

Those are the right type, you only need to find out for sure what thickness you need. I think I read that the stock ones were ~.120 or there abouts..... I'd say that the majority of the noises you are hearing are coming from the valves slamming shut. If you think about it, the cam lobe is running off the rocker and the valve is then slamming shut, instead of having the cam lobe close it slowly, which is your duration of the cam. It doesn't surprise me that some of the rockers seem OK while other are not, all due to the differences in valve stem lenght, however minute. Somewhere along the way perhaps some of the valves were replaced with aftermarket valves which were just a bit off the factory specs...

Well, the FSM doesn't go into much detail about the lash pads. You would be much further ahead to either have a good machine shop do the work, or if you choose to do it yourself, you really ought to buy one of 2 books. Either the book, "How to Rebuild Your Nissan/Datsun OHC Engine", or the "How to Hotrod and Race your Datsun". The How to Rebuild book goes into pretty good detail on how to measure, and how to determine if the wear pattern is correct. You might also want to make good friends with someone at a dealership or shop if you are going to do this on your own, as you might need more than one set of lash pads so you can determine the exact thickness you need. They are a bit pricey and there are quite a few different thicknesses available... If you look at the thread I posted the link to you'll see what I mean. Perhaps if you found a shop that has the lash pads, you could make a deal to return the unused ones and only be charged for the ones you need after you measure and set up the lash pads on you head. It would be a lot easier to do this while the head is on a workbench too, I know, but to do it on the engine in the car your gonna have to lean on the fender to get your measurements, and to be able to see the wear pattern on the rockers.....:disappoin

Yup, hate to say it Paul, but you will definately be needing thicker lash pads. More than likely all the rockers are going to look very similar to that one.:disappoin

It could be something as simple as one of the rods on the latch lever binding. I can't remember exactly, but I believe there are plastic nuts on the ends of the vertical rods that adjust the lenght of the rods for both the outside lock and the outside door handle where it sits into the lever on the door patch. You'll have to pull the door panel to access it, but it could be something that won't require you to buy any new parts......They are a bit tricky to access and adjust, but with a little tinkering you can adjust not only the outside door handle and lock, but if you look on the horizontal rod for the inside handle there is an adjustment there as well.

I dunno, are they? I don't think I've ever had a set of the ST springs so I don't know... I've got a set of blue springs from MSA in the garage.....

Paul, the first thing I would do is check the wear pattern on the new rockers. If the old lash pads were used and were not the correct thickness, you could have the cam lobes running off the ends of the rocker contact area. This could be contributing to the noise you hear. Tha lash pad clearance could be off even though the rocker to cam lobe is adjusted correctly. See this thread for a little more info... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=6342&perpage=15&highlight=Lash%20pads&pagenumber=2

I know I had a set and know where another set is right now...I know I bought mine from Impact Parts many, many years ago. Only names that pop into my head are Mulholland and Interpart.. Seems like they were 1 to 1 1/2 inches lower and about 10-15% stiffer like most today...

Spray it with a little WD-40 or PB Blaster first, then put the nut back on it and give it a couple whacks with a hammer if you don't have a brass drift or a punch that will fit the end of it without ruining the threads. It should pop loose as it is just a tapered pin put in from the top. If you want a little more advice, you will find this to be a much easier job if you were to remove the whole strut and control arm assembly and work on it on a workbench, rather than trying to do it while it is still on the car. Before you try to remove the spindle pin, you ought to soak it with penetrating fluid for a day on both ends and through the locking pin hole. If you have trouble, use the search function here as there are many, many threads on this job and quite a few options for removing the spindle pin.

Me thinks you missed it the first time Carl..... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=2803

Most of the wiring harnesses and possibly gauges will be unusable. Heater box itself will work I think, but the controls as well as the center console are quite different, but you might be able to make them work if you had too.... Suspension is 90% the same except for the strut housings are different lenghts and diameters.... Brake booster and master are the same..... My question is, where you gonna find a 280 over yonder? Didn't think they were imported anywhere except over here?

They will interchange just fine, only have your recline latch on the wrong side and the slider will be a bit odd to handle..... I did it once on a car I had years ago, took a bit of getting used to when I wanted to move the seat or re-adjust the backrest....

ATF in the crankcase is an even worse idea than putting it in the gas tank. Not only are you contaminating your new engine oil with ATF after you drain it, you are running the engine with an oil that is not of the proper viscosity in the first place. In the old days of poured babbit bearing and loose tolerances in the bearings, you might be able to get away with this, but any engine built in the last 40 years won't last long doing this. Too much heat buildup in the bearings even running it for 30 minutes like this.... Not only that, but ATF will not stick to the cylinder walls to lubricate the rings. I suggest you not do this anymore.:cross-eye There are oil additives you can use that will do the same thing as what you are trying to do and it can be left in the crankcase with the new engine oil.

I more than likely have it in a box somewhere... you got any idea what year it was? I hate to look through all of them going back to 89..:cross-eye I've got all the SportsCar and Straightpipes back to 89 around here somewhere..... I just threw away about 10-15 years worth of old Road&Track, Hot Rod, SportsCar Illustrated, etc...... Guess I should have put them up on Ebay and got some of my money back....:disappoin

Just to see how many of us are what could be considered "gear-heads" or "motor heads" how about if each of us lists the automotive magazines we either subscribe to, or buy regularly on the newstand? This is auto related only so some of you can forget those "other" magazines... just because they have a section for autos doesn't count... My list goes something like this... 1. SportZ and previous to that ZCar Magazine 2. SCCA SportsCar magazine (members receive this with their membership in the SCCA) since 1989 3. Grassroots Motorsports 4. Mopar Muscle 5. Mopar Collectors Guide 6. The Straightpipe... Washington DC Region SCCA newsletter

All those questions... one simple answer... If the car has been sitting for a long period of time, and has damage due to snow(?). I would have a serious look at the underside of the car before you decide to do anything even remotely like worrying how to fix it. The mechanicals are fairly easy to fix, and with all the heads we have hear to put our collective minds together we can figure out most anything.... except how to fix a chassis that has a serious rust problem. If the rust is severe, which it sounds like it could be given the damage to the roof, which says the car has been outside in the weather and neglected, then it may not be worth the time or energy to even consider getting it running again. If you do a search here on the site for rust issues, you will get a clear idea on what to look for, then take an afternoon to look over the car carefully... then decide if it is something that is worth fixing.