2ManyZs

I got a mesh grill just a few months ago from www.nismoparts.com I don't know if they still have them or not, so you'll have to ask them. Click on catalog on their main page and enter a search for part number 62300-N3000, it is listed as available for 110, but that doesn't guarantee it is still available. The mirrors are NLA, but I know of one supplier who can get a few sets if you want to spend $385.00 for a new pair...:cross-eye I hope you were sitting down when you read that.:disappoin MSA has the "Spook" front airdam in their latest catalog, so they may be your best choice for that, they have either the ducted or non-ducted listed for $104.95 If you really have to have the fender mirrors, PM me and I'll give you the part numbers and the supplier who said they could get them....

Check with our advertiser, Too Intense. They are on his web-site, not sure how his supply is at the moment. They are a bit pricey though, but that probably has to do with their scarcity.... 69.95(US) each:cry: http://www.datsunrestore.com/photo3.html

Looks great George... Only thing I'd change is a better set of mirrors, don't want any flashing lights sneaking up on you...:devious:

This one isn't in the area you are looking for, but they have the best prices on Panasports any of us has found yet.... http://www.daveturner.com/panasport.html

Not sure, but I think that is the factory primer... mine has the same thing under a very, very light coat of body color.

The reason the nights are so quiet is the "Frods" and "Chibbies" are being rebuilt to keep up with the mighty Mopars....

Mark, cutting the floors probably will be a simple job if they have a plasma cutter. The main thing is to get all the tar mat off the floor and up the tunnel about 3 inches or so and get all the old undercoating off the underside. This is what will cost the most if you have someone else do the job, it's a tedious and time consuming task, and when you are paying them by the hour, they won't hurry....:cross-eye

Well, Rusty is now back on my favorites list since they got smart and are now running MOPARS! Anybody driving a MOPAR powered car is OK with me......:devious:

"Steam cleaning" is nothing more than hot water through a pressure hose. If you use the right cleaner, you really only need a pressure washer. Spray the inside of the cap and rotor with WD-40 before you start, and if it won't start afterwards, spray a little more in the cap and in the ends of the plug wires... I've used full strength Simple Green, let it soak a bit, and then used the pressure washer on the parts car and got pretty good results. Car hasn't run in 10 years so I don't know if it did anything or not....

If it's just a fairly bare shell, and you don't remove the seat risers, it should be strong enough for a ride on a roll-back. I would at least leave the seat mounts as they will keep the tunnel tied into the rocker panel area and keep it from twisting. You might want to check and see how much extra it would cost for them to remove the floors before they weld the new ones in, no sense in taking any chances if the cost is minimal.

Like the seat Rick, but I hope you teach him to pick a better "role model".... Couldn't you have put him in a Coors uniform?:devious:

Sorry to disagree Ivan, but no LSD's were available in the US until 87. It could be an R-180 or an R-200. I know the 280's used both diffs, but I'm not sure if the 77-78's used only R-180's or both diffs. The 75's were R-200's only, not sure when the started switching. You can put an LSD in either one, but you have to go aftermarket or if you are lucky enough, you might possibly still get a Nismo unit. Stock ratios for the 280's were the same as the 240's, 3:36's for stick, and 3:54 for automatics. If it's a 4:11 it has been changed or it's not from a Z, it could possibly have come from a 200sx Turbo, which might have an LSD in it.

Sorry, the car was missing its bumpers, hood, fenders and the Recaro's when I bought it...:disappoin And yes, it's been sitting in the woods like that for almost 8 years..... not a lot left to pick from except suspension bits and maybe a few things off the engine... had a decent hatch last time I looked... maybe you can get Dan to deliver that as well.... The car is already his, it was part of the package with the trailer. Now you know one of the reasons I sold the trailer, less temptation that way.....

And I bet he delivered it on the trailer I sold him.... Guess that means he's got room for my 76 parts car now....:devious:

You didn't leave an option for those of us that want to but have to wait till the time comes before we decide... If things improve on the "home front", I'm planning on going to the National Convention this fall, if for nothing else to get the chance to meet Mr. K in person and shake his hand. I know the car will never be ready for anything this year....

Sounds like a brake problem, either with a warped rotor perhaps or the anti-squeal shims behind the front brake pads... Could also just be the type of brake pad you are using... See this thread for more info on the problem. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=5064&highlight=brake+squeal

Unless you want to spend in excess of 800 bucks on a NOS dash, I'd go with a full dash cover for the time being. There are some companies that will recover them, if you use the search feature here you should find a few posts on the dash subject. As far as the vinyl/carpet, I'd say it's your car, do whichever you like best. It's not that much of a modification to hurt the value of the car... not like coil-over suspensions, fender flares etc.... The main thing to do is not get into a situation where you will regret something you did later, when someone says they would have bought it for X amount if it were entirely stock. In other words, make your modifications ones that are easy to change back to stock. If you have an original engine and want to hot rod it, pull the original out and store it, and do your mods to another engine to save the original.

Well, if all you want to do is fix just one car, you can get away without a lot of the stuff I mentioned. The main things you would need are an air compressor, Mig welder, floor jack, jackstands and the basic list of hand tools. A lot of the things I mentioned are luxury items that most people won't spend the money for. You'd need an angle grinder and a few other assorted hand tools but by and large you could get away for a lot less tools than are on my list. Biggest question is, is it worth it to buy all this stuff to work on only one car? Or would it be make more sense to hire someone to do the difficult jobs, and just do the easy stuff yourself that you can just do with basic tools?

Arghh... how'd my name get into this? First, you have to have the shop... that is the biggest expense right there... 2 car garage with lights and plenty of storage.. 7500 or so..... plus the cost of the lot if you don't have one already. Air compressor: 500-1K dollars depending on how many tools you will be running at once. Sandblasting cabinet and a free standing blaster: figure another 600 or so. Miscellaneous air tools: 400 or so depending on how many air sanders you want. Mig welder: 700 and up for a decent set-up Torch outfit?: 400 or so Drill press: 150 and up Engine hoist and stand: 300 or so... Plasma cutter: 800 and up ( not necessary but would be a huge help when cutting out floor pans etc...) I wish I had one too:disappoin Floor jacks, jackstands: 200 or so.. Hand tools and a cabinet to store them in: unlimited.... Miscellaneous hand tools, grinders, sheetmetal bending brakes, etc...another 1k or so... You starting to get the picture?:cross-eye This won't even get you to where you can paint yet... you'd then need spray guns which could be in the 500 and up category for a couple different ones.. plus, if the laws are strict where you are, you might not even be able to spray without a paint booth... those will cost upwards of 20K... You can spend enormous amounts of money on tools and never have all the ones you need... I've spent the last 20 years buying tools and such and still have a long wish list...

The original underfloor frame rails had drain holes, but, they were usually not large enough and got clogged with debris and caused the water to stay in the rails and rust out.:disappoin The largest amount of water probably got into the frame rails in the first place through the section that is rusted out on yours as it has some areas that are open in the corners. The only other ideas that I can come up with, would be to find another car that is only good for parts, and you could possibly remove the frame rail behind the T/C pocket, as 95% of the worts cars will have this piece in decent or useable condition. If you are going to tackle restoring this car, I would suggest replacing the frame rails inside the engine compartment as well, they are readily available, and these rails usually rust away from the inside. Since you are going to be doing a major frame resto, you might as well replace them, and you'll never have to worry about them again. The only other area of the car that has me kinda nervous is around the battery tray/firewall junction. This area will need to be done by a fabricator as well, as there are no patch panels available. I'd look for shops that are into the antique car restoration business, as they usually have to fabricate a lot of body parts for the cars they are working on as panels aren't available. You could possibly end up spending 2-3K just on this job alone, due to all the labor involved.:disappoin But, this car is going to appreciate much faster than say a 72 or 73 due to the simple fact it has a 69 build date, so the expense should be justified IMO.

That body kit is from MSA (Motorsport Auto) Looks to be their full kit with the front(50-1409), rear(50-1473) and the side skirts(50-1461) or similar items. You can purchase their Aero kit and pick your front air dam, side skirts, and rear skirt, as they have either urethane or fiberglass available.

Egad.... that's got to be one of the first I have seen that rusted out in that area in a while, usually it is above that where the rust takes its toll.. I'd suggest you find a shop that specializes in restoring old cars that has someone that is good at metal fabrication. To someone with the tools and skills to fabricate, this shouldn't be a hard job at all. To those of us who have a hard time forming metal, it would be a difficult job to do it right. Not only that, but that is one of the few places where I believe the 18 gauge metal was used. It's not impossible, but you'll need to shop around and take a look at the metal fabrication the shop does. Hmm, to someone that builds Nascar stock cars for a living, this would be a piece of cake, to us, it's a bit scary.... It is odd that this part of the frame is one of the only parts of the frame work that is not available, but then, this is usually not on of the areas that is rusted away like this one... Good find, if you can find a shop that can do a good job.:nervous:

I'd almost suspect a fuel pickup problem caused by rust and crud in the tank. Does it restart OK after it quits or doesn't it completley quit? I'd pull the drain plug on the tank after you run the tank down as low as you dare just to see what comes out. If you get a lot of crud, you might need to flush and blow out the fuel lines. The second thing that comes to mind would be the water control valve may be stuck open and overheating the intake manifold and it is trying to vapor lock. Easiest way to check this is to block off the water line that comes around the back of the head and connects to the intake and take it for a drive. If these ideas don't work, let us know and we'll give you some more work to do....:devious:

First thing I would check is to see if it has spark when it is warm and won't start. If not, the first thing I would check would be the coil. It could be a sensor, if it is, it's probably the temp sensor in the thermostat housing. Check to see if the wires are connected and Ok as they have a habit of coming loose as they only have a bullet style connector if I remember right. When it won't start, you'll need to find out if it has spark or is not getting gas as that may point in the general direction of the problem.

Try Andy Russell at z@datsundude.com for the lights, Too Intense(our sponsor) also has them. Motorsport Auto would be another choice. For the grille, try any of the above. If you look through our web links for Z car businesses, you should be able to find most anything, except for those things that are NLA....:disappoin If you rather not pay for new, send me a PM as I have a fairly straight grille and a couple used marker lights. Or you can get this set of marker lights and get the grille from me... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=38450#post38450