2ManyZs

CafePress, who were adminstering our store suddenly shut it down without notice... According to Mike, they were worried about trademark infringement because our logo uses the letter Z.... Mike has tried to contact them and get it straightened out, but keeps getting the run-around from various people that have a hard time speaking "Engrish"... Mike can give more specific details as my memory sometimes fails me.....

Touche Steve..... Guess there are a lot of them that describe people who live in other places besides California as well...

If it really has no rust and the original paint is in decent or good condition, I'd say his asking price is pretty close to what the car is worth.... It's the little things that would add up to detract from value, but from the pics, it looks like it is in excellent condition. I'd say the car is worth 10k and up, it just depends on the few things that might be missing or needing attention. Hard to tell with the pics, but usually a car looks better than what it does in pics unless someone is trying to hide something..

I only have one 4 (new) that I'm going to need... the rest that I have are stock 2 rows that need repair or re-core... I think if you go over to www.hybridz.org you should find what you need to know in the way of GM radiators that will work. I know they use them with the GM V-8 swaps... Or then there's always the aluminum GM replacement radiators from Summit Racing or Jeg's that should work. Took a minute to find it but here's the link to the thread you ought to read...I think you'll find what you need there... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=6825

Rain-X will work, but it's still nice to have a working wiper motor... I'm checking my "inventory" to see if I have one....

I got one of the mesh grills from www.nismoparts.com just a few months ago.... Not sure if they still have them or not. http://www.nismoparts.com/cart/?pn=62300-N3000&submit=Search

Well, OK, but... They do make these spacers in custom thinknesses if you are using non-Honda spec offset wheels. http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/mm_faq.php?PHPSESSID=1b009780367981439bff71e97991ae24 I think the problem would be that to do the job correctly re-drilling the hubs, you would need to get 280 hubs and stub axles to be able to have enough material to re-drill 4 new holes in the flange in the correct spacing you need. If you were to use the 240 hubs, they would need to weld and re-drill the existing stud mounting holes, which would end up being as strong as they would need to be, but it would cost you quite a bit in labor and machine costs. Try contacting Modern Motorsports and see what they can come up with, or ask them if they could do your hubs and what their opinion would be... I'm not a machinist, but, if you look at the differences between the 240 and 280 hubs, perhaps you'll understand what I'm trying to explain. The 280 hub flange is the same thickness and is round, while the 240 hub flange has 4 "ears" that have raised pads that the wheel mounts against.

30 Reasons You Know You're in California: You Know You're In California When... The fastest part of your commute is down your driveway. You were born somewhere else. You know how to eat an artichoke. The primary bugs that you worry about are electronic. Your car has bulletproof windows. Left is right and right is wrong. Your monthly house payments exceed your annual income. Your mouse has only one ball. You need a new TV, you can run down to the local riot and pick one up. You dive under a desk whenever a large truck goes by. You can't find your other earring because your son is wearing it. You drive to your neighborhood block party. Your family tree contains 'significant others'. Your cat has it's own psychiatrist. You don't exterminate your roaches, you smoke them. You see 25 lawyers chasing an ambulance. More than clothes come out of the closets. When 'the Dead' are best live. You go to a tanning salon before going to the beach. Your blind date turns out to be your ex-spouse. More money is spent on facelifts than on diapers. Smoking in your office is not optional. When you can't schedule a meeting because you must 'do lunch'. Your children learn to walk in Birkenstocks. Rainstorms or thunder are the lead story for the local news. You'll reluctantly miss yoga class to wait for the hot tub repairman. You consult your horoscope before planning your day. A glass has been reserved for you at your favorite winery. When all highways into the state say: 'no fruits'. All highways out of the state say: 'Go back'. You pack shorts and a T-shirt for skiing in the snow, and a sweater and a wetsuit for the beach.

Seems like I read somewhere that the N-47 even with the liners flowed better than most of the rest... I still believe in the E-31.... With L-28 valves of course..

Back many years ago when I was known to "partake" on a regular basis... Best I ever had was called Molson Brador... 6.2% Malt Liquor, first one tasted so-so, second one tasted goooood, third one..... who pulled the damn chair out from under my butt?:devious: Stuff had a kick like Jack Black..... Shame, can't buy it in the US.... Worst ones were Pabst Blue Ribbon (PBR), Genessee Cream Ale(:sick: ), Rolling Rock and anything in a clear bottle..made me feel like I was drinking from a specimen bottle.... :cross-eye

Why bother when you can just buy these adapters? It would cost more than these cost to have your hubs re-drilled.... http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=6&PHPSESSID=1b009780367981439bff71e97991ae24

I believe you are thinking of Rebello Racing? http://www.rebelloracing.com/

I drive a big old 3/4 ton 4x4 pickup, have 4 Z's and I am a truck driver with over 2 million accident free miles... wonder what that makes me?

Only sealant I have ever used on headgaskets is the Permatex Copper aerosol, can't remember its exact name.... It's not really needed, but it shouldn't hurt anything if you do use it......

I guess I have to agree more with TKR on this one... Might as well say 98.9% of the people on the road.....there might be 1.1% that don't have a serious need for a rectal-cranial inversion..:cross-eye Of course, it all depends on what area you are in as well, get near a major city and the percentage of idiots goes up to about 99.5%:mad: :stupid:

Inf, I also have a Sears 2 ton floor jack, and yes, you have to be careful when lowering the car as it does release kinda quick at times if you aren't careful. Drunkenmaster, the frame rail you used is just forward of where mine are, either one is OK. Actually the pads on my jackstands are a bit wide, so I used the rail that connects to the ones you have yours under. George, I've got one set of stands like yours. But I don't use them much anymore since I finally broke down and bought a better set. I got these from Northern Tool, I think they are 3 ton. The main reason I got this set is because of the height. To everyone, yes, mine is high, but is very stable. I can climb into the car with no trouble. I can also lift the front of the car off the jackstands as I still have the hatch on it and it makes the front a bit light compared to the rear. With the hatch off, I'd say it would be fairly even in weight front to back. I used the floor jack to get it as high as possible, then used my engine hoist to "cheat" a bit. I jacked up one end and then the other to get it as high as it is....:devious:

Hmmm, you sure that was a Z? Maybe it was a figment of your Margarita's imagination? That was the 71 I've been working on slowly....and yes, those are the original floor pans and rails too...:cheeky: Only thing on the underside are a couple of vent hoses that I haven't bothered taking out yet and the speedo cable hanging from the firewall.....

Are you sure you have the correct speedo gear in the transmission for the rear end ratio you have? If you are not sure, there's no way you can go by the speedo as it might not be correct. Depending on the model of ZX it came from it could be geared for either a 3.54 or a 3.70 rear if I remember right. That will make a larger difference in the rpm reading vs the speedo reading if the improper speedo gear isn't used.

Sorry to get you lost Royce.... I was laying on the creeper when I took them... If I could get it a little higher I could almost sit up under it, but then I'd have to take the light down off the ceiling to give me room to go much higher. Got the tallest set of jackstands I could find and they are sitting on about 12 inches of cement blocks....:cross-eye Floor pan is 32 inches off the floor of the garage, call it a poor mans lift...:stupid:

Here's the list of the tranmission ratios that were available. I don't have anything that will tell me which trans you might have given the serial number. Perhaps Alan T. might have something that will decipher the serial number....

Anywhere along that frame section is good.... Udder side...

This is the safest place to put jackstands on the rear. This section of the frame very seldom rusts out so you can be quite sure it is strong enough to hold the car. The biggest benefit is that the jackstands are out of the way if you want to pull the control arms or any part of the rear suspension.

Yeah, we had a go on this one.... It's a decent enough car, but considering it is going to need a lot of work to even have it moving under it's own power, we all thought the price was a bit high. But then, beauty is in the eyes of the beholder..... By the time you went through the mechanicals, new hoses and all the weatherstripping it probably needs plus a paint job, the car would end up a 15-20K investment. Not outrageous, but a lot if you want a car you would want to drive...:cross-eye

Your pics quit coming through....:stupid: Looks to me like it would be worth saving.. floors and rocker panels and maybe a pair of dog legs ought to have it well on its way to being drivable again...well, and a door...:cross-eye

FWIW, be careful you don't keep overheating it, as the head will end up being warped. Many things to check, radiator, water pump, etc... Rnning without a thermostat usually ends up with the coolant passing through the radiator to fast to transfer the heat and it will end up running hot. Best to use some sort of restrictor or just a new thermostat in a lower temp, perhaps yours is a 180 that is sticking, you could try a 160 and see how things go. Also, when you get it to the point you can let it idle without overheating and think you have the problem solved. You might be wise to do a compression check and leakdown test on all the cylinders to rule out a blown headgasket or warped head due to it being overheated in the first place.