2ManyZs

Let me know when you have saved up enough for this R-200 I have...:devious: Keep us posted with pics, this ought to interest a few people as you build the cage.

As far as we know or have been able to ascertian, they were Bridgestones. Kats was looking for a set of original tires for his car, but in Japan they were Bridgestones with a different tread pattern. I PM'd Kats just in case he's still looking..... this would be one way to get a complete set.... Here's his thread about his search for tires. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=28327#post28327

I'm afraid they are long out of production...but, there may be others that will work just as well. The ones I quoted from MSA are 109.95 a pair. You could also look into these, the California Z body panels are what Jim Cook used to sell many years ago... http://zdatsun.com/fiberglass.html Here's a pic of a set that was listed on Ebay in Australia, one of our members put up the link to the auction for a car, and he had these flares as part of the package. I only wish that someone could tell us who makes them, and if we could get them in the US....

I can't help much on the flares except they do look like something fairly old. Either BSR, Jim Cook, or one of the other aftermarket suppliers from days gone by...... I seem to remember Impact Parts had a flare similar called the IMSA flare that could be had either in a bond-on flare or a complete fender and quarter panel overlay.... If you have an MSA catalog to look at, their flares for the front, part number 50-15519(street) and the rear flares, part number 50-1561(IMSA) look fairly similar. The front ones don't look quite like the IMSA flares they have pictured in their catalog, so maybe someone did a mix-and-match to make it look better? The spoiler is just a 3 piece standard spoiler, but someone has taken the time to blend it into the body work. Oddly enough, this spoiler is hard to find now.

Guess that means I'll be having a hard time selling the new XR-700 I have in the drawer huh?:disappoin

I'd like it a lot better if they were to get rid of the ugly lights and door handles.... but then, if they did that, I might like the coupe as well....:tapemouth :cross-eye

It's not always about the weight of the tire and wheel package in total, it is a concern about the rotational inertia of the wheel and tire package. You have to take into account, the suspensions of these cars weren't built to take the stresses these bigger wheel and tire combo's can put on the wheel bearings and spindles. 5 inches of backspacing is going to be about what you would probably need. I've got a set of 15x8's (came with the car and not my choice) that have 5 inches of backspacing with 195/65's. They are about 1/4 inch from rubbing the stock spring and perch. So with coil overs, you should be OK.

Besides what Ed mentioned, be on the lookout for seized brakes, seized U-joints and rotted suspension bushings. See what the fluid looks like in the master cylinders and check the rubber hose on the slave cylinder. Bounce the corners of the car to see if the strut cartridges are seized as well. Might not be a bad idea to look for snakes in Texas as well.....:cross-eye :hurt: :paranoid:

I only have one question. Why? Here's the reasons it not the best idea. 1. Cost 2. Weight 3. Modifications needed to make them fit 4. Ride quality will suck 5. Harder on the suspension and chassis of a 30 year old car 6. You'll need to modify the brakes or you will be replacing parts like crazy. 7. Harder to turn with no power steering. Those are just the main reason... there could be more, like how they look for one thing, just because 15's and 16's look good, bigger is not always better. Is it worth an extra 2K dollars (or more) just to have bigger wheels than the next guy?

For one thing, you say you have a glass pack, and there can be one of your problems.... The longer it is in use, the more the fiberglass packing burns up and it continuously will get louder and louder.... You might try one of the Turbo mufflers with the baffles, such as Flowmaster, Dynomax and some of the others are selling today, they have no glass packing to burn out ever so the tone should stay pretty even over the life of the muffler. You say you have a small Turbo muffler, is it oval or round? Does it have more than one chamber? One of these days, I'll find out how a Flowmaster 2 1/2 in, 3 chamber with 2 1/2 inch pipes and a 2 1/2 in bullet style race muffler for a resonator sounds.....Gotta get the car back together first...:stupid:

My personal pick is the four row radiators that MSA offers...Not a lot more expensive than the 3 row and still probably cheaper than most of the aftermarket aluminum ones on the market. Only other one I'd try is an aluminum radiator for a Chevy (don't bother with the 280 radiator as the size is not that much different to make it worth while)... they have the inlet and outlets on the right sides, but you may have to do some tubing-hose mods to get them to line up... I used the 4 row from MSA in my IT car, with only a small electric fan for when I was sitting in the pits idling. Never even had a fan shoud on it and it usually ran 190-210 even when the outside air temp was in the 90-100 degree range, of course that was a bit higher speeds than street driving....:devious:

If your rockers are even the slightest bit compromised by rust on the inside, you'll end up crumpling the body work! Safest and most secure methods would be either the control arm mounts in the rear, the frame rail that runs across behind where the floor turns up to meet the inner rear fender or the suspension crossmember that connects the rear mounts of the lower control arms in the rear. Front would be the best if you used the suspension crossmember just behind the steering rack. Whatever you do, don't put a jackstand or jack under the floors or on the rocker panel flange. Always use a major frame rail or a suspension mount whenever possible.

Zmecruise.... I love it.... I'm also jealous I didn't think of it ........:devious:

Well, when we lived up there anything below I-90 was the "southern tier" and anything above I-90 was "upstate"... As for the "city", well, we tried not to claim that traffic nightmare....:devious: I'm from "upstate" on the Canadian border... can't get any further upstate than that......

A lot of it could be in your tire tread design. What kind of tires do you have and have you changed the sway bars at all? I raced in the rain, and a lot of it depends on your tire choice and your choice of sway bars. Since I doubt you have a welded rear you can rule that one out....:tapemouth A Z should be pretty good in the rain in stock form with the right tires on it. Tire choices are almost as critical in wet weather as they are(or would be if you had to deal with it) as choosing a set of snow tires.

I'm sorry, but 45 minutes north of "the city" isn't "upstate NY", it's only upwind. Upstate doesn't start till you get above Albany....:classic:

ROFL Guess I don't have to say anything do I?:stupid: I think mar2c's reply sums it up pretty good.....:devious:

Doubt if hot or cold would make much difference in the noise since it's not really a clearance issue. It's more of a valve closing issue that is making a lot of the noise since they are closing too rapidly because the cam lobe is running off the end of the rocker like that. Once you get this straightened out, I'd say the performance of the car ought to increase since you are not getting near the proper duration of the cam and only half the valves are truly in time with the engine.

It is probably running off the cold start valve(injector) in the front of the manifold. When you had the fuel line hooked up it was running rich(which would be correct in a cold start situation as it acts as a choke), and when you unhooked the fuel line it was running only on the cold start injector. You'll find it near the front of the manifold on the top.... unhook the wiring harness and then start the car with the fuel line hooked up and see what it does. It could be the temp sensor is bad, or the cold start valve itself. Temp sensor is located in the thermostat housing, there are two if I remember right, one for the temp sensor and one for the water temp gauge.

Those are the right type, you only need to find out for sure what thickness you need. I think I read that the stock ones were ~.120 or there abouts..... I'd say that the majority of the noises you are hearing are coming from the valves slamming shut. If you think about it, the cam lobe is running off the rocker and the valve is then slamming shut, instead of having the cam lobe close it slowly, which is your duration of the cam. It doesn't surprise me that some of the rockers seem OK while other are not, all due to the differences in valve stem lenght, however minute. Somewhere along the way perhaps some of the valves were replaced with aftermarket valves which were just a bit off the factory specs...

Well, the FSM doesn't go into much detail about the lash pads. You would be much further ahead to either have a good machine shop do the work, or if you choose to do it yourself, you really ought to buy one of 2 books. Either the book, "How to Rebuild Your Nissan/Datsun OHC Engine", or the "How to Hotrod and Race your Datsun". The How to Rebuild book goes into pretty good detail on how to measure, and how to determine if the wear pattern is correct. You might also want to make good friends with someone at a dealership or shop if you are going to do this on your own, as you might need more than one set of lash pads so you can determine the exact thickness you need. They are a bit pricey and there are quite a few different thicknesses available... If you look at the thread I posted the link to you'll see what I mean. Perhaps if you found a shop that has the lash pads, you could make a deal to return the unused ones and only be charged for the ones you need after you measure and set up the lash pads on you head. It would be a lot easier to do this while the head is on a workbench too, I know, but to do it on the engine in the car your gonna have to lean on the fender to get your measurements, and to be able to see the wear pattern on the rockers.....:disappoin

Yup, hate to say it Paul, but you will definately be needing thicker lash pads. More than likely all the rockers are going to look very similar to that one.:disappoin

It could be something as simple as one of the rods on the latch lever binding. I can't remember exactly, but I believe there are plastic nuts on the ends of the vertical rods that adjust the lenght of the rods for both the outside lock and the outside door handle where it sits into the lever on the door patch. You'll have to pull the door panel to access it, but it could be something that won't require you to buy any new parts......They are a bit tricky to access and adjust, but with a little tinkering you can adjust not only the outside door handle and lock, but if you look on the horizontal rod for the inside handle there is an adjustment there as well.

I dunno, are they? I don't think I've ever had a set of the ST springs so I don't know... I've got a set of blue springs from MSA in the garage.....

Paul, the first thing I would do is check the wear pattern on the new rockers. If the old lash pads were used and were not the correct thickness, you could have the cam lobes running off the ends of the rocker contact area. This could be contributing to the noise you hear. Tha lash pad clearance could be off even though the rocker to cam lobe is adjusted correctly. See this thread for a little more info... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=6342&perpage=15&highlight=Lash%20pads&pagenumber=2