2ManyZs

I think Carl was referring to the dual downdraft Webers and not the triple DCOE's as being more of a problem than the original SU's. Triple Webers, Mikuni's, Dell Orto's are fine, but, they are fairly expensive to buy and much hard to tune than a set of SU's. And they will require much more maintenance than the SU's to keep in tune and synch. The dual downdraft Webers are only slightly better than a single 4 barrel in many people's minds as they don't distribute the fuel as well as the stock SU's.

Not exactly sure, but I believe that is the coolent temp, not oil. The later ZX's moved one of the coolant sending units from the front cover/thermo housing and put it on the side of the block.

That's one of the best Datsun/Nissan history sites I've seen yet. He has combined all the different race series, different models of cars, and put them in one place. Great job. There are quite a few other sites that cover only certain models that are quite interesting, but this site is the best for those of us that like to read about all the different models.

Guess it's time to replace the temp sending unit or go with a mechanical type gauge...the original sendin units have always been known to be innacurate, and the temp guage working properly is probably the most critical. 200-225 shouldn't do any damage if the engine is in good condition, any more than that, or on a high mileage engine could spell disaster.:cross-eye Of course, 190 is close to perfect...

It's definately not the best I've seen, but it most certainly isn't the worst either. I still like their original one better, this one has too large an opening under the bumper detail for my liking.

Actually a chirping or squealing would most likely be the belt. Howling is a whole nuther set of possibilities....:devious:

Also check your fan clutch, it may be locking up (or locked up completely) and it's the fan itself that is making all the noise.

I'd prefer Kats brought the car to the 2005 Convention in Syracuse so those of us that are "stuck" on the East Coast can meet him and see the car.:devious: Of course, any one of his friends are welcome to bring along their 432R's as well....

I put a category in the Gallery for your pics. Makes me wish I had gotten in touch with all the local Z Clubs about getting together at Brian Redmon's Jefferson 500 vintage races at Summit point coming up on May 14-16.:stupid: Guess I'll have to remember to do that next year.

Another reason the 72's seem to be the most popular is the fact that there were more HLS30 -US models produced and imported in that one year than were imported into the US from the very first 69 up to the 71 model year combined. One nice thing about the 240's is that there weren't a lot of major changes up to 72, at least not when compared to the differences between other manufacturers model years. No huge gains in the engine or drivetrain, or in the options available. Take a Corvette for instance, where a new model may have 50+HP advantage over the previous years car simply due to an engine that wasn't available the previous year. Personally I'd like to have one of each year up to 72...and by the end of the week I'm only going to be minus the elusive 69. :disappoin

Be sure to check the U-joints carefully. By changing the springs, you have effectively changed the angle of the half shafts and that could be where all the noise is coming from.

Since the car has a 3:90 the best thing to do would be to swap for a 5 speed. More than likely, the noise you are hearing is the throw out bearing though. More often than not, the throw out bearings will make more noise when you don't have the clutch pedal engaged, than when you push in on the pedal.

Oops, I knew there was another thread that needed to be moved.... I just forgot which one it was...:stupid:

Get a DA sander with either 80 or 100 grit paper. Using a grinder will only cause you more work than it's worth. The DA will do a better job of keeping the surface fairly smooth and even and you won't have as much work to do later to fill in all the high and low spots. It doesn't take much to take off a coat of paint or two, and using the wrong tool will only make things worse.

Sounds like you still have air in the master cylinder if you aren't getting any pressure on the front caliper at all. Bleed it again, and this time run about 2 full reservoirs of fluid through it before you go to the wheel cylinders and calipers. If that doesn't get all the air out, something isn't right....

Well finding them used is gonna be like finding a bag of money on the side of the road....probably won't happen as the bumpers are very hard to find now and those who have them probably won't be willing to sell. The front "euro" bumper was still available up to about a year ago new, and for a fair price, actually a bit lower than the original replacement.:cross-eye Midwest Z has the clear front lenses for the turn signals and rear taillights,and has probably the lowest price on them of all the suppliers. She may also be able to get new bumpers, but be aware that a new set will cost in excess of 750 for the complete set. That is, if the rear bumper center section can still be found. I had to get mine from Zedd Findings in Canada as there were none available in the US anywhere, and the price was over 300 just for the center piece.

I cringed when I approved those pics Ash...:disappoin Hope you have access to a good chassis for parts to fix it, or you can rebuild another suitable chassis. Knowing all to well how hard it is to find a solid inner fender/strut tower, it looks like you will have your hands full for a while. Hate to see a Z get stuffed like that, but at least you were able to walk away. Now everyone can see why I've been hesitant about rebuilding the stuffed race car I have had sitting in my shop for years, I'd hate for it to get bent again and lose a good chassis.

Here's the ZZapZ special edition we had... notice it doesn't have the overfenders either.... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=7534&highlight=ZZap+Z If this is (or was) a real ZZapZ, it's been too highly modified to even call it a "true" ZZapZ. Color doesn't even look right to me, or it may just be the differences in the cameras. He also stated that the 77 was the first to have FI and we all know that isn't true either.....

It's only "magic" if you have been snorting the "fairy dust"....:devious: Such an obvious rip-off and Ebay allows it.... no wonder I'm particular about who I buy things from. Shipping charges alone are more than what he is selling is worth.... Rates right up there with the "atmospheric supercharging"....

Even though I've never seen one, the 432R's would be my first choice. One of these days it would be nice to see one hit the US and make the rounds of all the shows.....be willing to bet it would stir up a lot of interest and increase attendance too.... Second choice would be any of the BSR, BRE or any of the Japanese road race cars (factory or privateer) as long as they are kept as close to original as possible.

It might help sell the engine if you stated which area you are in, and also which block/head combo the engine has. Most people are looking for an F-54 block with the P79 head that has the flat top pistons for better compression.

I don't remember my 75 having one until I put one on like Chino's when I started racing it. If it's pushing out coolant, it could be a bad cap, or it could be that it is running a bit too hot also. Safest thing to do is to verify the coolant temp in the radiator with a cooking thermometer after you get it up to normal operating temp. The stock gauge and sending unit are notoriously inaccurate. You could also spend a few bucks for a cheap mechanical temp gauge and put the sending unit in place of the electrical one and drive it a while with the guage placed somewhere inside the car so you can verify the operating temp while you drive.

Sounds to me like you were given the incorrect hub adapter, I've had quite a few aftermarket wheels (mostly Grant) and so far they have all fit perfectly in the splines. I'd either get with MSA and see if they'll make good on it and send you the correct one free (shipping too) or try to source one locally. I don't know about over there, but most all the Grant wheel dealers and even the cheapo parts stores stock a good selection of the hub adapters for Grant wheels.