2ManyZs

I remember seeing the first pic Alfa posted somewhere, either here or was the car listed on Ebay or another site? I remember seeing the Waste Management sign at the side of the driveway..... As far as finding a 73 610 for a donor car, that sounds good if you can find one... most of the 610's and 710's around here are either race cars themselves, or went to the crusher years ago... :disappoin

No matter which type of bushing you use, it would be a good idea to put some grease on the inside sleeves, just to make it easier if you ever have to take it apart for anything in the future. Especially important will be the spindle pins on the rear, grease them completely, or they will seize in the bottom of the strut housing...:cross-eye As for torque settings, I'd use the same for either type of bushing.

Now that it's been said, I'm pretty certain they are spot welded only, and then the lead filler is used to fill up the seam. I don't see why you couldn't grind it down and seam weld it and get rid of the lead if you so choose. As far as getting rid of all the flex, with strut bars and such, it would be almost impossible as a unibody is designed to have a bit of flex as it is inherent in the design. You'll never get a unibody to have the rigidity of a body on frame, unless you spend a lot of money.....

Well.... If you are going to remove the starter, it might not be a bad idea to take it somewhere and have it tested first, just to make sure that is the problem... Lots of auto parts stores will test stuff like this for free...

MSA's price is only 30 or so each... sounds like someone is trying to get rich of each part they sell.... I've used them from MSA, the local Napa store and even a couple from the Advance store. Usually the were Moog if I remember right. Used them on the street and racing with no problems ever.....

It looks pretty good, but geez, you'd spend a pile on it just putting back what is missing...:cross-eye

Usually if the starter is the problem, when you hit the key, the starter will spin and not engage the flywheel. If it's the solenoid, it will be silent when you hit the key.

Hmm, hard to tell in the pic... I was going by the color of it, it looked to be the same color as the infamous bondo.... Could be some kind of epoxy primer I guess...

That's the seam where the roof panel meets the rear quarter panel. I can't remember if it's seam welded or spot welded, I think spot welded. It can have a little flex there over the years, as a spot weld is never going to be as strong as a seam weld. Looks like someone has put a little putty there in the past, and probably what little flex has occured, has caused the putty to crack. I guess the question would be why the filler is there in the first place?:cross-eye

#6 is just the small outer repair panel that goes on the bottom of the fender, while #5 is the complete fender. #11 is just the dog leg section of the complete quarter panel (#10) If you choose not to replace the complete quarter (if you have no rust through around the wheel lip) then just use the small dog leg panel. Same with the front fender, if you don't need the whole thing, just cut off the bottom and weld in the repair panel in its place. If you have a lot of rust in the rear quarter around the outside of the fender lip, be sure to check the inner fender, as they will both rust through at the same time usually. If you have a hole in the bottom of the inner fender at the very bottom, you'd almost need to buy the inner panel to fix it correctly. I tried to make a patch for the inner fender, and the curves are almost impossible to duplicate, or at least for a novice they were....I ended up buying the inner fender panel, and cutting off what I needed to patch the inner fender so the dog leg would seal off the end of the rocker... BTW, MSA has a better price on the inner fender panel if you need it. Same prices on the fender panel and dog leg panel though.... MSA also has a better price on the large quarter repair panel, which in the long run, might be easier than just the dog leg. You will open up the quarter and be able to repair or replace the inner fender panel if it is needed.

Rolf, I don't know what the problem might be with MSA, as I have sent them a couple e-mails that went unanswered. Maybe they are overwhelmed with trying to set up their secure web order pages... Something they should have done years ago...

They ought to, and possibly even supply you with the cam tower shims if your head has been shaved top and bottom. FWIW, I found Crane cams on another site, that were 255 and up, just for the cam, then you'd have to buy springs, lash pads etc...

I might have a brand new set I bought a few years ago for my Webers, not sure if they are the ones you want. Send me your home e-mail address in a Private Message and I'll try to dig them out tomorrow and send you a pic of them.. I've changed my mind and probably won't use them if and when I ever get around to using the triples.

I've looked at a few different suppliers, and for the price, the MSA cam kit seems to give you the most for the price. I've seen bare cams listed for 255 on another site, and by the time you add the springs, lash pads, keepers and all that, the MSA kit is a bit cheaper. Best thing is, once you tell them what you are expecting out of the cam, they will advise you on the lash pad thickness to go with the cam. MSA's kit is 489.95, which seems like quite a bit until you think about it giving you the proper lash pads, new springs, etc... only thing you'd need to supply is the new valve seals... Personally, I'd go with their 17030 or 17033 gind. Either gives you good power in the lower revs and pulls up to 5 to 6K.

If it won't turn over, it won't be the coil wire....:cross-eye Sounds more like either a loose battery cable, or a bad connection at the starter. If not that, might be the starter solenoid has gone... or the ignition switch...or.... Did you check your fuses, the "common" 20 amp(depending on your year, lower right corner)?? Do you hear a clicking when you hit the key?

Question is Ivan, did your 240's have the front mounted bar vs. the rear mount bar? Or were all the 240's and 260's the same over there.... We had two different mounting positions for the rear sway bar, one in front of the axl, with the mounts on the rear of the floor pan, and one that mounted behind the diff. That would be the only difference I could think of....

Here's one that list fiberglass.... http://zdatsun.com/fiberglass.html

Yup, they could be the problem. If I remember right, and I don't have my service manual any more for the 75, there is also a fusible link for the fuel injection system in the wire that comes off the positive battery terminal as well.

The black ones are called the scuff plates, while the outer aluminum ones are called the sill plates. I know Andy Russell has a pretty good price on both, wiht balck screws for the scuff plates and stainless for the sill plates. z@datsundude.com.... or did I send you his price list? darn, what's that memory disease called??:stupid:

It should Ed, but if it's on an intake valve, you'd have a vacuum that would suck it right into the cylinder.... The only other things I can think of that would cause this are not good... Oil rings not having the end gaps spaced correctly,head gasket, head cracked, block cracked. So now you see why I'm hoping it's something simple... It could possibly be he just used too much oil assebling it, but it should burn off rather quickly. If it runs and continues to smoke even after 15 to 20 minutes of idling, then I'd say there has to be someplace oil is getting into the cylinder somehow.

Well at least you have one side that looks good on the outside. Now all you have to do is get those 4 stubborn bolts out of the bottom of the fender so you can take the fender off and get in there to see if you have any hidden surprises.. Those 4 bolts are usually the ones that will snap off, so be prepared with a good E-Z out, or a left hand drill bit and a tap and die set. But, be carefull, as I have in the past while trying to loosen those bolts, taken a chunk out of the bottom of the rocker panel.. Just letting you know, just in case:ermm:

I know what would have happened if I had ever done that to one of my Dad's cars...Let's just say I never would have graduated from the 9th grade that year... Luckily for you, painting is better than trying to find another car.

I was under the assumption that all the P-90A's used on ZX's were hydraulic, but, is it possible the head came from an L-series that wasn't used in a Z?

:stupid: Guess I should have proof-read my post a bit better, I thought I had mentioned that... Good catch Rick...

Valve seal sounds like the most likely culprit....Other than that a guide is abou tthe only thing I can think of... unless you want to think about the worst thing that could happen... I think the first thing you should do is pull the valve cover and rockers and check the valve stem seals, perhaps one is crimped or ... you forgot one?