2ManyZs

I thought the same thing Victor, shame we all couldn't have someone like that to look at our cars. Haven't heard his name in a while though or seen it in any race results. Has he retired from racing?

A lot of this will have to do with the condition of the engine itself. A completely rebuilt engine ( from top to bottom including carbs and ignition) will probably tolerate a lower idle speed. Then you need to take into account any modifications made to the engine, cam choice, timing etc... An older engine with high miles will probably need a higher idle speed, as will one in less than perfect tune. Best thing to do is to lower it till the engine starts running rough, then increase it until the engine is idling smoothly and leave it at that.

When driving in inclement weather the tread choice is the most critical part of running wider than stock tires. I've raced in the rain with 215 and 225/60's without too much trouble and at one Driver's School it snowed. Never went off the track in the snow... A tire designed correctly will not even notice water no matter how wide it is. Look at an F1 rain tire as an example.

They should fit with no problems, but I'm wondering why you say the earlier ones won't as they ought to as well.

Check with Zedd Findings or MSA, MSA has them in their catalog but they evidently have supply problems. I know of no others that offer new tanks. If yours is not rusted to badly on the outside or dented, perhaps you could try restoring it by re-sealing the interior of the tank either with a kit from POR-15 or Eastwoods. Or try www.gastankrenu.com

But they might look right at home on a Z31....

The emissions laws got more stringent in 73, but all the Z's had smog pumps and some type of emission control on them.

Being a "shadetree" mechanic at best, I didn't break it down into grams like Phred did. But thinking about it, I'd say this is quite amazing to see an engine with 70's or 80's technology coming out this closely. Today's engine are built on an assembly line as well, but because of the compression ratios used, and the temps today's engine operate at for emissions controls etc. the tolerances they are built to would be hard to beat. With today's CNC machines and such making the basic assemblies, they are probably even closer than this. But that's what makes this one stand out. They didn't use CNC machinery like they do now to make their basic assemblies like pistons, pins, rods, etc. They were probably still using just an investment cast part. Good job Nissan....

The Gotti's are 14's? Hmm, don't see too many in 14, the only ones I have seen were all 15's. FWIW, you can find 205/50 to 225/5014's fairly easily and they will be a good fit on a 7 inch wheel. Best of all, the prices are fairly reasonable at under 125 a tire, but they will more than likely be a soft "race type" compound. Harder to find a more "street friendly" compound in the sizes you might want, unless you go to a 60 or 55 series tire.:cross-eye

I wouldn't if it's just going to be a street engine. Unless you just want to play around with a die grinder....:cross-eye Truthfully, that probably is pretty good for a mass produced engine and parts. That little weight difference over 6 is pretty darn close if you asked me.

It can be done while the glass is in, it is just a matter of taking your time and being very careful if the weatherstripping is not brand new. If it is even just a bit dry-rotted you do run the risk of it cracking even more and/or having small pieces of the lip that holds the trim break off. You can use a plastic bondo spreader to loosen the rubber from the trim and hold it so you can slide the trim underneath. Work very slowly and don't try to pull the trim too hard as it is very flimsy and it will kink quickly and permanently. It can be done either way, but if you aren't replacing the weatherstripping with new, you will probably end up damaging the weatherstripping more by trying to remove it and then re-install it. Sometimes it is best to have an extra set of hands while doing this, so if you can get a helper, it will be much easier while trying to re-install the trim. It gets kinda tough to try to hold both sides of the rubber out of the way while trying to set the trim.

Best bet for a diagram to show how the wiring harness is run through the dash is a Factory Service Manual. If you don't have one, you can get one from Andy Russell, at z@datsundude.com or (480) 343-2962 There are expensive now, but it will be the best 75 dollars you can spend. You'll get more out of the FSM than you can all the rest of the so-called service manuals combined. Not only as far as wiring diagrams but anything you need to do to the car, it's probably covered in there.

Cool pics. Bet the guy with the red Mustang gets a lot of ribbing for his last name.:devious:

In a stock engine, high test is a waste of money. In a high performance engine designed for high test, it's a necessity to keep the engine running properly. You don't gain anything by running high octane in an engine that is not built to use the higher octane to its fullest potential. I usually used mid grade as some suppliers "regular" is a mix of whatever they can buy from the tank farm for the cheapest price.

I just got done reading some of the feedback. What I want to know is why Ebay hasn't shut him down yet?

Horse-hockey! I think the 3.99 would go a lot further if you used it to buy a bottle of octane booster for the crappy gas we get nowdays. This fits right into the same category as the "atmospheric supercharging" farce! :stupid:

I think he was trying to say it was something simple.... kinda like a slap on the forehead?

Looks great on a Cobra or early Vette, not on a Z.:cross-eye :sick:

255/45 would need an 8-10 inch rim. Check the tread width and section width of the tire you are looking at, try to keep it under 9 to 9 1/2 inches for a 7 inch rim.

Steve, before you make another batch of home-made wine, please be sure to wash your feet thoroughly before you stomp the grapes......

If it has an older distributor, the first thing that come to my mind is the advance plate is either cracked or the bearings are falling out and the advance plate is hanging up. 3K would be about where your vaccum advance should be all in, so perhaps it's either an advance problem inside the distributor or the vacuum advance itself is going bad.

My opinion only here, but I'd save the money and when you get the mods going on the L-24 find a set of triple Weber 40 or 45 DCOE's, Dell Orto 40 DHLA's or Solex 40's. I don't think the Weber DGV 36's are enough of an upgrade over the round top SU's to warrant the cost on a stock engine, or even a midly modified one. The DGV"s were a popular upgrade on the 73 240's and early 260's to get rid of the flat top SU's that were a PITA at times.

It isn't an easy job if you have no body work experience or the right tools. It's going to be a fairly labor intensive job, cutting and fitting, so if you are going to pay a body shop to do it, it's gonna get expensive. If the job isn't done right, the whole unibody is going to lose its structural integrity, and the car is not going to be around long... If you have a set of spot weld cutters, and a mig welder, and have some practice with the welder already, do one at a time and see how it goes. The floor pans are pretty straightforward, the rockers are a bit tricky as they extend under the front fenders and they also are overlapped by the rear inner fender behind the door jamb. The floor pans are pretty much a cut out and lay them back in. You'll need to move the brake lines and gas line under the passengers side rail, after that it is just a matter of marking it them out and fitting in the new pans. If you get pans, go for the best that Zedd Findings or MSA offer, as they are the thickest metal and the strongest you can get. If you are going to pay a shop to do them, the parts are going to be about 1/3 the total cost as there will be quite a bit of labor to do the job right..

I don't have any experience with the downdrafts, but they have got to be better than a set of flat tops.... They are a bit more flexible as far as adjustability, so if the price is right, give them a shot.

They are now, I wondered how they got on in the first place with the size of them. Thought there should have been a link to view them.....:cross-eye