KDMatt

(crap multiples, sorry everyone, browser froze)

Won't start without the headlights being turned on? I guess that's one way to have daytime running lights. Seriously though, it sounds like your wiring is goin' wonky, and it's always a good place to start is to look at your ground connections. Best of luck chief.

Won't start without the headlights being turned on? I guess that's one way to have daytime running lights. Seriously though, it sounds like your wiring is goin' wonky, and it's always a good place to start is to look at your ground connections. Best of luck chief.

Well, I have a hunch that all of the injectors in my car are leaking a bit, so that's why I wasn't sure. I guess that would make the rail depressurize into the cylinders more uniformly though, instead of dumping it all into one.

You're my hero. Seriously, great story Lon. I wish you the best of luck sir. BANZAII!!!

It wouldn't be the same around here if we didn't have people getting 'enlightened' all the time (myself included). I'm glad you got this fixed, I guess I never realized an injector could get stuck open enough to "flood" a cylinder... but I guess I do now.

Right. My injectors are leaky/stuck and the car still runs starts up fine and runs. Weak spark is still my guess. How's the dizzy cap and other stuff look?

"Paint it black" 'Stones knew what they were talking about.

I know it sounds dumb, and I don't mean to sound like a patronus, but is your firing order correct? It's been printed wrong in the past (esp. in the Haynes manual) ... so when you're doing your "checks" what are you using as your resource?

Repaint it, sell it, and buy a square-port header. IIRC the roundish ports are smaller than the square ones, so you'd be restricting some flow by usin' 'em... No expert, just sayin'

Wow, another one. If the new owner of that thing ends up on this site, we should start the silver '76 club. It's a nice car, but I guess I'm not in love with the paint. If you look, you'll see that the air-dam wasn't prepped that way it probably should have been (see how it doesn't shine right?)... and the fact that the tail-light housing stuff all got painted too .. meh, that always irks me. It looks so much better black IMO. But it's definitely a cool shade of silver. I personally prefer grayer, darker silvers though.

Yup, just start, one system at a time. Look at the plugs... look at the ignition coil, dizzy cap etc. etc. Examining your fuel pressure might be a good place to begin too. Having sat for so long, there's bound to be varnish and other crud in the lines. There's also a filter at the fuel pump that might be chock fuel of junk... and on the ZX's I think you can pull this from inside the car. This has been covered in a few threads, so the Search feature will behoove you. Anyway... fuel supply is a good place to look.

Actually, I know it's probably a bit late to chime in with this, but there are some places that can 'rebuild' and 'refresh' old injectors to new-like condition. I bought some crusty used injectors off of ebay with every intention of sending them out to get refreshed and restored to good working order. There's a guy on ebay who sells injector servicing for about US $72.00 (for six), and I've heard good things about him.

HAHA yeah, I see a jackstand in that pic though, so he's probably covered. Very nice find, I'm a bit jealous

That is a lovely vehicle sir, I kind of want one now

Bigger clutch, bigger brake booster... err, what else?

I agree, the 350z is pretty lackluster... definitely not one of the ugliest cars out there, but it's pretty 'safe' as far as cars go. When it came out in '02 or whatever, it was pretty hot, but it's probably almost time for a redesign. It needs a BRE spoiler and rounder headlights

Drat, looks sort of roundish, as opposed to square. Still a very interesting find you've got there.

On an off-note, I sort of had the opposite happen. Over the phone the seller made it sound like the car was way rustier and in a lot worse shape than it was. When I went to go see it in person I was so surprised to see it in such great shape and drove it home two weeks later!... granted the condition of some components has deteriorated a bit since then, but I'm working! [/hijack] Dean, your car is gorgeous. I'm sorry to hear you had such lousy luck with the infamous echo-bay, but I suppose in the end everything turned out allright. Oh, and that picture is truly amazing, you must be that guy in your neighborhood. I must also chime in and say I'd love to see some more pics of this fabulous vehicle!

Ahhh yep, that'll do it too. I once lost an entire cylinder due to a bad injector connector (the connections were green, nasty). Keep up the good fight, we young, hip, gunslingin' Z-owners gotta stick together!

I think the intercooler on the BAE setup seems like a sort of ingenious idea. I mean wasn't the biggest point of grief people had with aftermarket kits was overboosting and (therefore) prematurely cooking the piston rings... wouldn't an intercooler solve this problem? BTW, Eric I shot you an e-mail a while ago looking for info on that kit you had for sale, did it ever find its way to you?

Sorry about the mix-up with the O2 sensor. Good luck Darbji wait... you have a DeLorean too?! ... lucky...

Haha, no I feel ya, I'm just being a jerk on purpose. :tapemouth

Damn... that's pretty... heap-y ... ... but, I think #1 was a bit more than 7 days ago... quite a bit more...

My hunch is it can't cause the car to run rich. The thermotime switch breaks the ground connection with the cold-start valve, but in order for the circuit to be complete (even if there were a shrot to ground in the tt switch), a positive charge has to be supplied as well, and that can only happen when the key is in the "start" position... unless the wiring is totally messed up and there's a short on the + side of things, but if that were the case the cold-start would be stuck open even with the engine off! ... but I don't think that's very likely at all. Now as far as I remember from the EFI guide, there are four components that impact the fuel-mixture as far as the ECU is concerned. AFM (Air-flow-meter) Air-temp sensor (inside the AFM) Coolant temp sensor (inside the thermostat housing) O2 Sensor (in the exhaust manifold ... my Z doesn't have one, does yours?) oh, and I suppose the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) also. What that doesn't take into account is the possibility for leaky hoses, leaky injectors (including a leaky cold-start)... basically anything mechanically faulty. ... and I'm sorry about hijacking your thread Darb, we just both really want to make sure you get this taken care of before Z-withdrawal kicks in.