KDMatt

Yup, that's what I was thinking of... I think... I thought there was also a mechanical/vacuum operated component that controls how quickly the throttle closes when you let off the gas...?

I agree, examine the ground connections on the horns. If the relay is clicking then power is probably going to the horns themselves, and I wouldn't suspect the horn pad button to be the problem. Just check the current up front.

Okay, I wish I could help you more but there is a component that is attached to the throttle assembly that is designed to regulate your idle in the middle of a shift. I'll figure out what it is. Before you go and spend $600 on a racing clutch, you should take care of your ECU sensors first. Do you have a factory service manual? You can download it online from www.carfiche.com (at least the '76 and '77) You might also want to examine the idle bypass screw.

So I was under the hood of my Z for the first time this season (the annual "fix the crap that went bad over the winter" session)... the agenda today included new heater hoses, so I drained everything and pulled off the return hose to the water pump... A burst of radiator fluid sloshed out and landed on the solenoid and starter below. I cautiously mopped it up and continued working... I wrapped up and refilled everything, then went to start the car to make sure my handiwork was satisfactory. ... to my horrible dismay, all I got was "click!" ... and not a click from the engine bay either, but the click of a relay under the glove box. I examined the voltometer, and noticed no drop in voltage, so I'm pretty sure that the solenoid's doing diddly squat. ... Is there anything else I should consider before I go and order a new starter/solenoid? (other than maybe rebuilding)... I'm really bummin', I was hoping to take the Z out this weekend.

Hrm... that's a familiar story... Sucks that your luck ran a little drier than mine did. Best of luck to you in the future sir.

Now I know already how a lot of people feel about stuff from CSK/Kragen/Checker (I personally don't mind them), but I'd just like to double check. Is this the right type of U-joint for the propeller shaft? http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=GMB&MfrPartNumber=2200027&PartType=17&PTSet=A It says it's for a 3 pc. driveshaft... which could maybe indicate that it's a fit for the half-shafts coming out of the diff... but there's also a separate part listing from this manufacturer for the half-shaft U-joints. I may also add/drain fluid from the tranny and diff. at this time too (might as well, since I'll be under the car), 75w for the differential and 90w for the transmission sound okay?

Hrm, the closest to my VIN so far. There are only 5004 Z's separating ours.

Yes, I know the hose you're talking about, that is also part of the PCV system... but its function is to ventilate fresh air into the valve cover. ... I'm talking about the hose that originates from the bottom of the injection manifold (the location of the PCV valve itself) and goes into the side of the engine block about where the crank-shaft is.

Kragen didn't have Seafoam?! I find that hard to believe. I, like many here, am also a "rookie" (only going on my third year of Z-experience here), but from what I can tell there is nothing that really compares to Seafoam... and it's sold in a lot of places... the corner gas-station by my college sells both Seafoam, and it's sister product "Translube." I don't really think there's an alternative that's as effective and has as reliable a reputation. I don't mean to contradict you, but if all you could see is stuff like Slick 50, you were probably in the wrong section of Kragens. Seafoam is mainly a fuel additive, whereas Slick 50 is an oil additive. If it's anywhere, it'll either be on a shelf by itself or near stuff like Gumout... sometimes I personally still have a hard time finding it, and have to ask a sales associate. 'Best of luck to you gentlemen, Dieseling doesn't sound like much fun.

Good call TomoHawk, I just shot them an e-mail. DRBall, I'm talking about the rubber hose/tube that connects the PCV valve itself to the opening in the side of the engine block. I thought it was a regular hose, but I didn't realize that one end has a larger opening than the other.

Anybody got any ideas? ... This is one of a handful of hoses I'm replacing this season before we hit the road, but I can't find it anywhere! Courtesy only has it for the 71/72, CSK doesn't have 'em, 'can't find it on eBay, even MSA and Black Dragon have let me down! I'm buggin! Please tell me I'm just not lookin' hard enough!

All.Zcars.are.sexy 'Nuff said.

Check the AFM connections! Are they gold/coppery like they're supposed to be, or are they limey and green? I had the exact some problem for about half an hour in my garage one summer day: The idle would jump up and down, as though the tach. were on a trampoline, and "smooth out" as I gave it gas. I realized that I'd forgotten to plug the AFM back in. I rectified that mistake and bingo, problem solved. 'Best of luck to you!

Hrm, well if it truly is only a matter of a few simple fixes, perhaps you could go the route of buying it, replacing/refurbishing a few choice things to make her more "refreshed" and then reselling to recoupe your cash, and then some.

That's hot I'd drive it if I didn't feel like I'd be putting epileptics at risk in the sun. Bright green on black? ouch.

Gorgeous looking '76. Man I wish my dad had priorities like yours! If it'd been up to my father I'd be rollin' a beater Honda like every other college student, haha! Anyway, the funny thing about the FI-Z's is that there are a lot of big things that can go wrong based on a bunch of tiny little sensors. The first thing I would do, if you haven't done so already, is replace every sensor you can find. Trust me on this one. The electrical on this car is what's probably going to give you the biggest headaches. Oh, not to mention vacuum leak issues... The fuel-injection is weird about vacuum. Anyway, there is a 'fast idle' thingamabob on the FI-Z's as far as I know. I wish I could tell you exactly where it is, but a quick look through a Factory Service Manual will find exactly what you need. If you don't have one, you can download a FSM in .pdf format from http://www.carfiche.com/ ... I also have a copy of this, as well as the Electronic Fuel Injection handbook for the '76. Welcome to the community, I'm glad to see another youngster like me with a '76... silver nonetheless! EDIT: Also, the yellow-bottle (which used to be clear...ish) is a vacuum container as far as I know, and is hooked up to the inside of your car. I think this is what allows you to switch from the vents on your dash to your defrost vents... if this isn't hooked up it could spell fog trouble the next time it rains, .

Hey, I'm going to chime in here and ask a question: Why do sunroofs neccessitate such a negative response from this crowd? Do they look ugly on S30's or are they just "unoriginal." ... I tell ya, from a functional standpoint... I would love it if my Z had a sunroof. My dad's little escort coupe ... thing... has one, and I love it.

Wow, nice find! From where I'm sitting, she almost looks like all she needs is a good wash 'n' wax, plus a bit of TLC under the hood and she's good to go!

duffman: I'll clear the air and say this first. Seeing as I have a '76, I do not have an ammeter, nor do I really know the proper behavior of an ammeter, but I'm taking a stab here anyway. My electrical system behaved similarly to yours (i.e. dimming/brightening lights at random) for a while in the past. I rectified this problem by replacing the voltage regulator. I realize that your alternator is from an 81 ZX, and is, thus, internally regulated, but let me ask: Is it brand new, or is it used? ... If it's used I would suspect that the internal regulator inside of the alternator could need some attention. This, to me, would explain sudden jumps in amperage coinciding with brightening/dimming headlights.

Shoot, I just remembered I still have an EXTRA splash pan that I was supposed to take pictures of for some guy... crap.

I second the alternator idea. Though if you don't feel like doing a ZX alt. upgrade (there isn't exactly a kit for the FI Z's) you could simply have it checked out. Cheap replacement alternator from CSK Auto is only about 40 dollars. This significantly helped my charging/electrical issues. It also provides a good amount of power IMO... but I'm not running anything ridiculous yet... like subs or tons of audio goodies... which I will eventually, so we'll see.

Clean connections on: All six injectors cold-start aux. air regulator thermotime switch temp sensor throttle pos. sensor afm connectors ... and that's all I can remember doing ATM. Also, seems like a lot less smoking now that I've dialed the AFM lean... which makes sense I suppose.

Have you done a vacuum check recently? FI Z's are notorious for developing idling quirks when vacuum leaks are involved.

As happy as I am for you man, I'm with E on this one. That's a car I'd cruise in as a daily-driver to just use my first-gen as the weekend warrior, . But hey that's just me! I'm biased though... I've got a soft-spot for the ZX's... especially the second-gen turbos. Actually... that's sort of my plan... Get my S30 280 lookin' all nice and spiffy, then acquire a 280zx turbo to beat around in during the week.