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Just got the car painted - I will post pictures once it is back together. While I was removing the exterior trim for paint, I broke the tail light panels off of the rear tail lights. Did'nt learn on the first one so I proceeded to break the other side also. I want to find carbon fiber panels to replace the old. Does anyone know where I can find new originals or carbon fiber replacements? These are the grayish suede looking pieces that cover the back end around the lights. Thanks for input!

It is hard to read the numbers on my timing scale. What is the number sequence? (75 280Z) I also forgot to add the distr. cap, rotor, plugs and wires have been changed recently also. There is a ticking from the valve area. I've been told it was valve lash out of adjustment but the car has recently gone faster/stronger with this issue.

The wheels are original to the car and with a little polishing will make a nice set.

I just bought a timing light from Sears. It is the inductive pickup with the advance dial. I painted the notch on the pulley. What number (degrees) am I trying to line this up with on the timing scale for a 75 280Z. The manual says 7 degrees BTDC. That was new with no miles. The engine now has 150k plus. Also, am I supposed to dial in the desired number of degrees on my timing gun to match what I want on the timing scale before I adjust the distributor? Or do I leave the gun set at zero? The car runs, idles, and revs strong while parked but has no power when I drive it and it backfires through the AFM when I try to accelerate along with hesitation and choppy idle like a Big block Chevy. Car has NEW vacuum hoses, AFM, throttle switch, elec. fuel pump, fuel filter, and PCV. Thanks for your input.

I just bought a timing light from Sears. It is the inductive pickup with the advance dial. I painted the notch on the pulley. What number (degrees) am I trying to line this up with on the timing scale for a 75 280Z. The manual says 7 degrees BTDC. That was new with no miles. The engine now has 150k plus. Also, am I supposed to dial in the desired number of degrees on my timing gun to match what I want on the timing scale before I adjust the distributor? Or do I leave the gun set at zero? The car runs, idles, and revs strong while parked but has no power when I drive it and it backfires through the AFM when I try to accelerate along with hesitation and choppy idle like a Big block Chevy. Car has NEW vacuum hoses, AFM, throttle switch, elec. fuel pump, fuel filter, and PCV. Thanks for your input.

Original turbine wheels for sale off of a 75 280Z. Very good condition - No Reserve on Ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=8012831383&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT

Try this link: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/airconditioning/index.html Hope this helps.

Houston, Texas is averaging about $2.49 to $2.55/ gallon. This topic brings up a good question - What kind of gas mileage should I expect from a finely tuned, stock 280z?

I have a 75 280 and recently had similar troubles. The problem was in the neutral safety switch (inhibitor switch). The car is an automatic but there may be one on manual models too. When this switch goes bad, it will sometimes allow the car to start - sometimes not. I could sometimes start the car by moving the gear selector to neutral or drive to start it (play with it). I fixed the problem by taking the switch off and cleaning the connections. They were covered with 30 years of crud. Hope this helps.

This weekend I bought a 1 pint can of Sea Foam - Carb and Fuel Injector cleaner. My 75 280 had sat for 12 years and sounded like it needed new injectors. I put it in through the brake booster vacuum hose and the results were immediate. Massive smoke from the tailpipe for 10 minutes but a very smooth idle for $5.99. Highly recommended. I put some in my truck and wife's car.

I now have the car running and it sounds good. All vacuum hoses replaced, new NGK plugs, new valve cover gasket. I noticed that coolant is seeping from the block at the cylinder head (where they meet) near the #6 cylinder (near firewall) on the passenger side. Does this sound like a blown gasket or is this a sign of a cracked block or head? When I changed the plugs I noticed that this cylinder's plug was the cleanest of the bunch (no carbon). The car is not overheating. Any guidance is appreciated

Thanks for your input and advice. The problem was in the starter inhibitor switch for the auto trans.

I've narrowed my starting problem down to the starter/solenoid not getting power. (after installing a new starter, batt. cables, ignition switch). I know the negative batt cable grounds on the starter and the positive batt. cable goes to the starter lead. My question is which wire goes to the lead on the starter solenoid to give it power. There is a thick harness on the frame rail with a line coming from it that is going to the same lead as the pos batt cable. There is also another harness (thinner) that comes from over the auto trans tunnel and along the frame rail with a little yellow wire that comes out from there. I'm thinking the wire from the thick harness should go to the solenoid post. As you can see, I have not been able to find service manuals at my local parts stores. I appreciate any guidance and input.

I noticed that I have what looks like a relay sitting directly across from the starter on the frame rail. There are two wires coming from this piece to the starter. What is this piece? (My local O'reilley does not have Datsun manuals)

Where is the ignition relay?

As I progress with the project (75 280Z), I am stumped at the moment with ignition troubles. When I try to start the car, I get nothing from the engine or starter. One click, the gauges jump and nothing else. I bridged the positive terminal of the battery to a lead on the starter and the engine turns over. That tells me it is in the ignition somewhere. Earlier in the diagnosis, I replaced the starter, battery & cables, and the 5 pin ignition switch behind the key cylinder. I am waiting on a ignition key cylinder to arrive that I bought on Ebay. I separated the 5 pin switch from the key cylinder and turned it with a flathead screwdriver and I still get nothing. Am I on the right track? What else could it be? Any insight is appreciated!

Before I replace the electric fuel pump on my 75 280z, I want to "flush" the gas tank out. The car has sat for the last 10-12 years. The previous owner drained the fuel tank while the car sat. The tank has a plug on the bottom and I removed it and stuck my finger in the hole and swiped the inside surface with a shop towel. No flakes or debris just a rust colored ash. The question is: Should I pour acetone in the tank to rinse the tank or use the fuel system cleaners at Walmart? There are no holes and the tank appears to be in good condition. I do not want to damage the new fuel pump. Any other ideas/tips would be appreciated. Thanks

I will soon begin the process of sanding the body of my 75 280z. I have a few questions: how can I determine if the paint has lead in it? I have heard stories of lead poisoning and I believe the dust from sanding may not be a good thing landing on toys, bikes, etc. My car has all the Datsun badging intact and in decent condition. How do I remove them without breaking them and where/how can I get them redone like they came from the factory? Thanks.

Thanks for the replies. I am excited about the project and this forum. Don't get me wrong, I like the car no doubt but after reading earlier threads on Z car rustout and metal repair, I had to pass on several 240s and decided the 2+2 would be the best bet for only a grand out of pocket with no major rust out. I will share pics of the before and after as time permits. The goal is a sweet weekend driver with some tasteful personal mods (front air dam, Panasports, stereo).

Hello all. I just bought a 75 280z 2+2 for a restore project. This is my first Z and first project. I originally had plans to buy a 240z with the same intent but decided to buy the best available car for the money. The car has been stored and covered for the last 15 years and is all original with only light surface rust on the hood and roof (appears the cover was not taken off to dry after rain). There is no rust on the body panels and the frame rails and floor pans are good. The interior is original and fairly decent with only cracks in dash and minor tears in seat bottoms. This is my question: Is the 2+2 model as popular as the 2 seater? I have not seen as many nicely done. Is it realistic for me to think I will have a potential strong performer with basic engine upgrades (headers, cam, intake kit) since the car is heavier and longer?