jmanz6

have it bead blasted or walnut shell blasted then have it clear powder coated. Have them use a semi-gloss clear so it doesn't look too shiney and it will be easier to clean off later. You need to remove all the bolts and studs before you have it done though.

The spade terminal going to the starter from the ignition switch. I had mine crud up and stop making contact. I ust went over and wiggled it to get the car started. I later replaced it with a new female spade terminal. It's the small wire going to the solenoid on the starter. Unplug it and squeeze the terminal together slightly to get better contact and reinstall.

When replating nuts and bolts it's important to remember the quality of the finish is dependent on the quality of the parts you start with. If the bolt heads are all pitted, the plating will look a little dull becasue the light reflects differently. Zinc and Cad plating isn't like chrome where you use a copper layer to fill in any imperfections. You platte over the bare metal and you will see the imperfections. If you rounded the corners of the bolt head when you removed it, then you will still have rounded corners when it's done. I ahve plated many parts for Datsun people and all have been very happy with the results. If anyone doubts my ability to do quality work, then use someone else. I do this as a favor to the Datsun community because I know it's hard to find someone to do this work. I use a professional plater that I have a special arrangement with to give me a pricing structure that the individual restorer can live with and I can make a little money off of as well for my time. I tried to do it at home for a while but to get consistent results, you need a much larger set up than the home user can justify.

I am the guy who owns restoration-specialties and yes, we cna replate your nuts and bolts. Let me know what you have and I will work up a price for you. If it's just nuts and bolts, then it will be pretty cheap as those are done as a batch. I do ask that you tell me if there are any coatings such as paint, ceramic, or others as those parts will require more attention and that can add to the cost. Also, please try to get as much of the grease off as you can before I get them. You can email me at jason ( at ) rocketdogmotorsports ( dot ) com

The emissions stuff on the engine look a lot more like my 72 than the 70 and 71 I've seen without the air pump and other associated stuff. The balance tube is cleaner on the early cars isn't it? That engine is identical to the engine in my 72. I know the AC was a dealer option and no car came with it from the factory. The heavy bracket and York pump have been removed from this car it seems. I removed ine because there was a big hole in the side of it. The bracket weighs at least 10 pounds. I also removed the interior stuff which it seems they didn't on this car. This car is the original color my car was; green/butterscotch. I do understand it was pretty rare, but can't confirm it. It seems a little fishy to me. I would stay away from it, but I do already have one so....

Do you have insurance on the car? Do you have rental insurance on the house? The landlord has insurance against you destrying anything or natural disaster destroying the house, not on any of your stuff getting damaged while outside the house. I doubt you will get any help from the landlord. Just be nice about it and keep a cool head. You might be able to get him to help, but I doubt he has any kind of coverage on personal property not owned by him.

Is it the one for the PCV valve? How big is the fitting?

Wow, if they thought that was offensive, they better not post on zcar.com or hybriz.org!! Those guys will leave them in tears.... I still don't see what was so offensive, but it must have struck a nerve. If we had tobe aware of everyones insecurities on the internet while posting, the posts would only have words such as a, and, the, if, or, to, and it.

I just sent you a PM regarding replacement linkage parts.

That guy buys stuff from me all the time when I list on ebay. I've never had a problem with him. I've even purchased from him a few times. I think he was hiding his feedback because a couple customers were trying to give him a bad name and were posting false feedbacks.

Some chemical dipping is done in a phosphoric acid solution. This will eat the rust, but not attack the metal as much as a stronger acid. The acid dip should leave a protective coating on the metal, however you MUST cover it quickly. The best option is to use a porfessional etching primer on the bare metal then coat that in an epoxy primer (PPG DP90). This is where your body work can start. If you have rust to repair, you can strip just the areas you will be working on and not have to worry about the rest of the car. Some chemical strippers will do the priming for you if you pay a little more. If oyu can't afford to do it all right now, I would suggest waiting until you can. You don't want to get all the rust off the car to have it sit and flash rust all to hell while you watch. Don't use the Autozone rattle cans for anything. That primer has been proven to be incompatible with many quality paints. If you prime with the cheap stuff, don't expect the top coat to stick...

Custom EFI, turbo and supercharged, custom intake, hand built stainless turbo header, polished everything. That would get a passing grade. Now to get sponsors to pay for it...

If you can weld then do it yourself. I made my 2 1/2 inch mandrel bent exhaust for about $110. I bought the bends from ebay and Summit, and got the straight pipe from Summit. I used a 18 inch glasspack in the trans tunnel and a Flowmaster 40 series in the back. Took about 2 days to mark, cut, and weld all the parts together, but in the end it was cheaper than going to a shop. Plus, I got to use my new TIG welder....

If you follow this link http://www.rocketdogmotorsports.com/displayProductDocument.hg?productId=4&categoryId=3 it goes the ones I sell that are far superior to the OEM ones. They don't have the boot you think is so great, they have a silicone plug that slides over the wires and presses into the plug body to keep the moisture out. They also have the quick release tabs to allow you to take them off without damaging them.

I sell the good connectors for way less than $12 each. Holy crap, that's a lot!!!! I wish I could get that much for them. To assemble my connectors takes about 2 minutes each. How you put them in your harness is up to you. Some guys use solder, others use butt-splices.

I sell two differnt types of connectors on the internet. I have the standard OEM type which work fine and lasted 30 years with no problem. These are for teh budget minded or OEM restoration guys. I sell these on ebay pretty cheap. I also have the weathertite connectors. They are more expensive, but are much better. They come as a kit and have to be assembled. There is a silicone seal that goes over the wires to keep the moisture out. They are also easier to take off. Since the Z cars are batch fire, the order doesn't matter nor the polarity. The injector is simply a coil, and it doesn't care which is + and which is -.

The fuel nozzle/nozzles could be bent as well as the needles for the nozzle. Make sure when you move the piston by hand that it will drop freely. Disconnect the linkage to take that out of the loop. If it works by hand with no linkage attached, then reconnect the linkage and see if it still works ok. I think there is some mechanical binding. Take the covers off and check the needles for straight. If they seem ok, check the nozzles for straight.

If you have the heat shielding on the fuel lines around the engine, then you probably have or had the electric fuel pump. The wires are back there for it. COuld be the PO had it, but when it stopped working they just removed it.

On slow moving parts the margin has to be higher. If they sold 200 a week, the margin could go lower and still allow them to make money. It's all about making money on the items you sell. You have to make enough money on each item to make it worth selling. Some things are cheap because they turn over really fast, others that don't sell very well are priced higher.

If you have to pay $400 to have your crank reground, you need to find a new machine shop. I payed $70 to have mine cleaned and ground. You won't really know until you look at it. The cranks are very strong and it's likely that it will be fine. It may only need to be polished and it'll be ready to go.

I have also used Columbia Coatings powders. They are very good quality. To use the radiant heater, you just move it around the part to get all the areas. It's a good idea to use a laser thermomoeter to keep an eye on the surface temp of the part. If it gets too hot, it will burn the powder. The heater has to be pretty close to the part too. The possibilities are endless with a radiant heat source. I am building a stand for my current heater so I can move it around instead of moving the part so much.

I used that gun as well when I first started. It is a very nice gun for what it costs. I was very happy with the results. I have moved to a bigger, more professional gun so I can do larger parts. The HF gun is only one current level, so doing larger parts is more difficult. For the small parts, it's perfect though. I used powders from Pendry. They are in Indiana and have a huge selection of colors. They are a bit cheaper than Eastwood as well. As far as doing larger items that don't fit in the oven. I use a radiant heater for my propane tank. They work great, and as long as you keep an eye on the surface temp (use a laser thermometer), the results are as good as the oven. You will always have spots where the powder doesn't get to. That is a problem with powder coating. It has to hange from something, and where it is hanging, no powder goes. The trick is to make that spot as small as possible, and hide it in a place that will be covered in the reassembly (like a bolt will cover it or something).

Yours leaves to marks because you have equal traction on both sides. An open differential will work like a "posi" in a straight line provided you don't have a traction differential. The limited slipp will keep the power drom going to the wheel with the least resistance (less traction). Just because you leave two marks doesn't mean you have "posi". It means that you had equal traction on both sides so there was no path of least resistance for the power to flow out of. Therefore it went to both wheels.

Now for the prices...

I use it in one of the smaller vacuum lines on the intake. I stick the hose into the can, and let it suck up liquid until it stalls (per the instructions on the can). Then you wait 10-15 minutes so the solvents can dissolve the crud before restarting. If you pour it in so slow that the engine never stops, you are just burning it off. It can't do any good that way. I also use it in the gas and it has seemed to help the idle quality, and throttle response. If you follow the instructions on the bottle, it will work great.