jmanz6

POR15 is not good to use as a primer type coating. You must top coat it within 2 hrs or it dries too hard. hls30 is absolutley right. If you can, the best way is to cut out the metal and weld in new (there is no rust). If oyu can't do that, or the part isn't rusted thru, you can sand it down, treat and prime. You can get some stuff called Naval Jelly at the local parts store. It works to eat the rust out of the pores. You must sand off the heavy rust first though. It leaves a phosphoric coating that inhibits flash rust for a long time. ALso, Eastwood has some treatments that work great for getting the last little bit of rust out. You are heading in the right direction though. Start sanding and don't stop until you see clean silver metal all over.

I wish Speed Channel would broadcast the WRC races at a better time. I used to watch when it was on at 10 EST, but now it's 11 EST to make room for more stupid NASCAR programs. It sucks the way Speed Channel is going since Fox bought them. It's NASCAR everything... WRC is very interesting to watch, and entertaining. I guess that is one more reason to get TiVo...

Eibach progressive rate springs are nice I hear. They have a soft ride at normal driving, and get stiffer the more you push it. They are expensive though. I have Suspension Tech springs on mine. They are stiffer than the originals, and lower my car aout an inch. That is LOW for a 240. I have already pulled one exhaust sytem off on a manhole cover. I think I may get the eibach springs for next summer though. I don't think they lower the 240's any. Also the Arizona Z car springs don't lower the 240's, but will lower the 280's.

I have to park on boards to be able to get my jack under the front of my 240. I made a wide board with a small ramp on one side and a stop on the back. When I back the car into the garage, i just place them behind the front tires and drive up them the last bit. Works great.

If you google custom Driveshaft, you will find a lot of places that will make a shaft for you. You can even send them the one you have, and they will make a new one just like it but with serviceable u-joints.

It's not really a "ground up restoration" with all the mods listed. It makes it worth less as a restoration with mods like that. They don't understand you DON'T get the money you invested back because it looks pretty. Some people are funny.

I used a big cresent wrench with a 3 ft pipe. I was able to bust them loose that way. It was a PITA though. Be careful with using heat, you get it too hot down there you could melt your steering boot. Then you have something else that needs fixed.

You can check your alternator by putting a meter on the battery and seeing if you are getting any voltage form the alt. It should read 13.5-14.8V with the engine running. If it's less, then your alt or your VR are bad. If you have an int reg alt, then it's the alt. You can also take the alt to an auto parts store and they will test it for free. Glad to hear you got the bolts off. I have to do mine soon as I also have a bad U-joint.

disregard my las post, my web browser didn't update, so I though I had not posted...Sorry

If you have a torch, even a butane or propane one, heat the bolt and nut up good. That will hel the BP blaster work better. Don't give up and don't get in too big a hurry.

A small pencil torch will also work. You need to get them red hot, then they will turn right off. They are a PITA. Good luck, don't get in too big a hurry, and don't give up.

The methanol gas is what we get here in Michigan. It burns fine, you won't notice a difference. It just costs more so it hurts when you put it in...

You should be using metric wrenches to remove the bolts with. Otherwise you will round off the nuts and have to cut them off. Not fun...

My carb kit from VB was like $20. I have found that when I go to Napa or any parts house, they have to order the parts just as I do. Only difference is, they can get them a few days earlier than me. Other difference is, I have to spend 20-30 minutes explaining to them HOW to use the books and that the part I want won't be in the computer. They aren't very bright and it's ALWAYS easier for me to look up the part myself, and order from a supplier who helps support my hobby.

I bought a brand new, still in the Nissan bags set for my 240 on ebay a while back. I am waiting til I get into the body to install them though. They are hard to find new, but call your Nissan dealer, they may have a way to get them. Check out courtesy nissan as well, I think I remember seeing some there.

If you use it on your 71, the tach should be left alone. I had installed it in my 72 and the tach worked for a while, but died. I then swapped out to a 280 tach that connects to the negative coil post. The 240 tach uses a loop for sensing the tach signal. This loop is also part of the ignition circuit. If you swap to a 280 tach, be sure to leave the loop alone. If you cut or remove it, the car won't run. I think the tach pulse the Crane system sends out is too much for the 240 tach system. It may work fine, or it may die. I've heard both. Good luck

Go to the local auto parts store and get a NOID light. It's used to check injector pulses. See if you are getting a pulse to your injector. They cost like $10 and will come in handy if you plan to do your own repairs on your Z.

It looks like the relay is set to open if the ignition switch is put in the ON or START position. The grey wire from the brain, is probably a GND. It looks to get the +12V from the yellow wire that is attached to the ignition +12V. Can you move the wire from 87a to 87 and see if it works correctly? Make sure with it like this, that is will not start with the doors locked by the remote. This may take care of the problem. let me know how it turns out.

I used to install car alarms, and hls30 is right. It sounds like you have the relay hooked up wrong. You have it set to NO (normally open), that means when you disarm the alarm, it opens the relay and make the starter not work. You want to use it as NC (normally closed), this makes the relay close when the alarm is disarmed. It should be in the instructions how to hook the wires up. You should not have to lock the doors to make it work. I did do a kill switch once where we put a momentary button in the lighter (filament removed), so you had to hold the lighter in while turning the key in order for the car to start. The woman had an alcoholic husband who used to steal her car all the time. I guess she thought this would stop him.

I bought my Tokico Blues on ebay for a good price. If you shop around, you can find them cheaper than the usual Z car vendors. I know shox.com had a good deal on some stuff as well. Do your homework, and you will save some money. Then you can get adjustables, but not pay thru the nose for them.

Same guy posted the exact same post, (copy and paste) on zcar.com. I hate it when they do that stuff. I bet he posted on as many Z sites as he could google up....

If you can crate it up, and load on a truck, then it will be worth more. To ship an engine/trans well it must be properly secured to a pallet and not allowed to shift. Can you do that? If so, you can get as much as people are willing to pay. To ship an engine cross contry via common carrier truck freight, you are looking at $100-$175. So the engine (running and complete carb to oil pan) would be worth maybe another $75-$100. It probably has the flat top carbs, so they aren't going to help the resale much. There are always people to buy your stuff though.

For a running motor, that I have to go pickup (no shipping) and an auto trans (less desirable), I think you are going to be lucky to get $50-$75. You can always get more if there is someone who is looking for that motor/trans combo. I bought an L28 engine/trans (4-speed) for $50, and I had to go get it. If you are willing to ship it (at buyers expense), you could ask more. That opens a whole new group of people to buy it. If it's local only, you won't get much.

You will have to have the clear reshot. I owuld say you can sand it down with 600 or 800. I would not go 400 though. That would be pretty rough and would start to take off the paint as well. If you clean it really well, and blend in the edges, it w should come out good when the clear is reshot. I would talk to a body shop in the area though and see what they would recommend.

If you only have one layer of paint (original factory paint job), then you probably don't need to sand to metal. My car has 7 layers, including the original. I am going to go all the way down because the last two paint jobs were done very badly. When I get to the original paint, I will stop sanding if it appears to be adhered well. I would read up on this before you go willy nilly sanding the paint off your car. Stripper works very well, but you MUST be sure to get it all off. If there is any inside seams or between panels, it WILL cuase your new paint to lift. Also, if you do the prep work, I bet your painter won't warranty the paint job. he can't be responsible if you screwed up the primer. When you do sand to bare metal, be sure to prime it immediatley or it will flash rust. Use an etching primer that you shoot in a gun, NOT rattle can junk. If you are going to do that, you might as well stop now and buy a car that doesn't need repainted. As mentioned before, you should use the same products your painter will use. If he uses PPG paint, you should use a PPG primer. Take your time and good luck.