jmanz6

From what I hear, Pallnet includes EVERYTHING to install the rail on your car. I don't know if it will make your stock car run better, but if you have bigger injectors, it will allow enough flow to let them do their job. Email Pallnet about your car, and your questions. He will answer, he is a great guy to buy from.

If you want chrome, that is one thing. If you want to polish everything, that is different. You can polish steel, but it will rust unless clear coated. You can polish aluminum, but it will tarnish unless clear coated. If you chrome everything, you CAN'T do that at home without a serious investment in chrome tanks/chemicals. A chrome setup to do big enough parts on your car is about $6500. I would take it to a chromer if I were you. If you "need" to have everything chromed, then you can afford to have it done right.

It double exposed because you took a pic in the dark with no flash. The shutter speed adjusted to a low light condition, and since you were not on a tripod, the camera moved. This gives that double exposed look. Very common with digi-cams and dark pics. I like those lights, I may have to get them for mine when (if) I ever get it back together.

I've done business with the guy in the ebay link. I've never had a problem with him. I am a little leary of private feedback though.

Yep, it's a Corvette conversion. Wouldn't be bad if the hood was different.

You could fix that with some time, welder, and sheetmetal. It would be a lot of work, but if the car was cheap enough, I would do it. It seems complete, so you wouldn't have to hunt much down for it. If you strip it down, and put it on a rotisserie you could fix all that rust pretty easily. If the price is right, go for it...

Most anything that is in "good" shape will be either in the SW or S. Since you are about as NE as you can get, I would plan on a road trip. Take a 2 week vacation to AZ and bring a trailer. You could get lots of parts for cheap. If you can't go get it yourself, you WILL be spending a lot of money on it. Someone had to bring it close to you and they had to pay for it.

1. Get a MIG welder, not a wire feed. If you can't afford one with gas, or a gas kit, then you shouldn't be looking at welders yet. 2. Get the best one you can afford. If you get a small cheap one, you will always want a bigger one. I have never heard anyone say they wish their welder was smaller. 3. If you have access to 240V, then get a 240V welder. The 120V ones are nice and handy, but if you will be using it alot, the 240V ones are better. They tend to be more ajustable. 4. Brands to look for: Lincoln, Hobart, Miller, Easb, etc. Stick with a main brand, it makes getting parts easier. MIG welding is much easier than ARC. It doesn't take long to learn it, and with a little practice, you will be very good.

I got my 280 tach off ebay for like $20. I pulled the guts out and swapped them with my 240 tach case. Otherwise it wouldn't fit back in the hole right. The 280 case has a hole at the bottom of the plastic and the tab on the back is in the wrong place. The insides swap very easily and it only takes a few minutes. I am going to switch to an electronic dizzy I have that has a built in pick up. I'm not 100% sure I got mine right in my 240 dizzy. I also think my timing chain is stretched since I can't seem to get the timing to hold steady.

Yeah, the L5 is the same size as the L6, with one cylinder cut off. I've been to the lab where they developed the casting method for the blocks (lost foam), and they are big engines. They are meant for trucks.

It's sad, but pobably true. F1 may not be back at Indy and may be done in the US. There are other tracks it should be at instead of Indy that wold be better for F1. I hope this isn't the end of F1 in the US. I have to disagree with your statement about it not being a good b usiness decision to bring F1 to a different track. It was not the track's fault. It was the tire mfr not having a tire that was able to compete. Bridgestone brought the right tire. If Michelin didn't bring the right equipment, oh well, they must suffer the results. It was bad show for the fans, and was bad for the teams to want to change the rules so they could race. You MUST play by the rules all the time, not just when it works out for you. If your equipment isn't right, then too bad. The teams running the Bridgestone tires made it thru the whole race on the same set of tires, as is within the rules. It was a true let down, and a horrible spectacle, but that happens sometimes. The guys from Minardi and Jordan were sure happy though. Good thing they were running Bridgestone.

I installed the same system on my 240 last fall. The tach worked for a while, then died. So keep an eye out for that. I just swapped a 280 Tach in and problem solved. The performance is great compared to the points dist. Dogma420 The XR3000 system comes with a optical sensor to replace your points breaker plate. I do think you could use it with a ZX dist though.

While not happy to see the outcome of the race (only six cars), I don't think the blame lies anywhere but on Michelin. The Bridgestone teams came with a tire that ran the track with no problems. Why should they make last minute changes to the track because one tire mfr didn't have a cometitive product. Had it been the Bridgestone tires that were failing, and there was a possibilty Ferrari would not be able to race, the "fans" (Schumacher haters) would have been happy to see those cars not there. I think it will be damaging to Michelin in their future with F1. They were right not "bend" any of the rules because the tires were failing. Obviously someone made a tire that would race all the way, so it can be done. This will probably spell the end of F1 at Indy, but there are other tracks in the US that would be much better for an F1 race anyway. Watkins Glenn would be awsome, Sears Point would be cool as well.

You can disassemble it, and take it to a machine shop to have them remove the old ones and install the new ones. It shouldn't cost much, but may require leaving overnight. That will save labor money of a shop doing the whole thing. If you get a Manual and take your time, you can learn something and save some money.

Yeah, a FSM or Haynes manual are definately in order. Before starting on a job like this, you should have an understanding of what you are doing. You will need some special tools (can be rented from auto parts store), and some time. It may end up being more cost effective to have someone else do it if you need your car back soon.

Historic plates here in MI are kinda odd. They don't look like the original plate, but are different from our normal plates. You can not drive the car daily anymore and in some cases can't drive after dark or in the rain. Your car must be 30 years old to qualify for historic plates. But, you only pay once for them, no yearly tabs to be bought.

GM uses the L6 in the Trailblazer/Envoy. It's a nice engine with the VVT and all, but still too big to fit in a Z car. Would make a cool engine in a muscle car though. It's only a matter of time before the aftermarket makes a custom wire harness for it.

I found it somewhere, I think it was ebay at one time or something. I liked the way it looked, but it had a SBC in it. Would have been better with an RB. Mine looks NOTHING like that one though...

The jeep motor may be too tall to fit. Since it's longer stroke, the block, sump, and head are all pretty tall. Could be tought to fit in there. I would definately stick with the EFI though. There is a stand alone wire harness for the 4.0 Jeep engine. That would make install easier. Just not going to fit in the 240 though...

Check your grounds for the harness... That sounds like a grounding problem. Take a meter and measure at each light to see if 12V is even getting there, if not, trace back to where it is lost. Maybe a broken wire, but I bet it's a ground.

I thought you said in the title, this was for the non-welder? That seems like a lot of welding. TIG welding 3 times is impossible if you don't have a welder (non-welder). You would still have to pay someone to do the welding, and that would get expensive for something that probably wouldn't work... Keep thinking about it though, you are on the right track.

I think ebay will be the best option. With the scam going around with out of country buyers, getting one via classified ads could be tough. Might be a good idea to come over here for a week vacation and look at a few. If you show up in person, it will give the seller a better feeling. I think to have one shipped over to you will be about $2000. I looked into it for a co-worker in Munich once who wanted a 67 Mustang. Keep your eyes out for one you really want. You should find one. Good luck.

Yep, I bet it's a dead battery. Put it on the charger for an hour and see. You might have a drain that draws the battery down if left too long. It may say 12V with a meter, but there may not be any current capacity left in it. My boat does this if I leave it for too long.

So if your diff is trashed, why did you spend money on new oil???? That is just plain dumb... Plus, did you throw a fit when he did the refill wrong so they didn't charge you? I wouldn't have paid for that... Now your diff IS trash, but I guess you don't care about your care enough to be concerned...

You can just cut it and send it. Let me know how much I owe you and I will get it out to you. I really appreciate this. I will make it up to you... Jason