jmanz6

mdbrandy, Did you find the header? Let me know. Thanks Jason

I've seen new NOS Datsun dashes go on ebay for about $1400 or so. IF you can find one, you will pay thru the nose. I will probably get mine restored when it gets to that point. Caps are ok, but you CAN see them. They look got from 10 ft away, but up close, they are very visible. For a driver, I would say get a cap, for a restoration, I would have it redone.

I saw the OEM ones on Zbarn. They were I think about $65-75 each. They are the ones I will be getting when I get there. Call Roger at zbarn (1-800-247-2793 sales@zbarn.com) and see if he has them in stock. He is great guy to deal with.

For a job like rebuilding your suspension, tools are very important. If you invest in the tools to do the job (some are specialty tools) you will do it faster and better. However, since some of those tools are only used for one thing, it makes it harder to justify the investment. You can get creative, but that can also go too far. Take your time, be carefull, ask questions, and do it right the first time so you don't have to do it again. Good luck on the rebuild, I am about finished with my rear suspension rebuild. I would be glad to help you out. I have helped another member here as well. I do give a 10% discount to members.

I built my cabinet because I wasn't going to pay that much for it. My compressor isn't the best for the job, but it keeps up. Doing the job yourself makes you feel very good about the project, but there are times when it's prudent to have someone else do it. I have all my large parts either dipped or blasted by someone else. I could do it in the driveway, but after the mess, and time, it's not worth it. I can drop it off and in 2-3 days be ready to reassemble. That is worth a lot to me. The little stuff I do. I do customer parts as well since I have the set up for blasting and plating, it's easier for me to do it than for them to do it themself. A lot of people have more time than money, and they will do everything themselves. I have a lot of respect for that. Then you know exactly how your work was done.

If you have to old ones and they are not all mangled, I can replate them for you super cheap. Just send them to me and I'll refinish them. Then you have your original hardware back. I would also look at junkyards around you for them. Might find a set you can use that way too.

It really depends on the shop. Some will do it cheap, others won't. I have some suspension parts for my truck project done last year and it was about $25. I called around this year for the lower control arms (front and rear) and it seemed everyone wanted about $25 each. I went with bead blasting since I have a blaster big enough to do my suspension parts. It's not as thorough as dipping, but it will do for my car. I would call around to the machine shops and see if they will do it for you. I've heard of some doing it for free (pretty unlikely though). If you were closer, I would bead blast them for you for cheap - kind of a side business of mine.

That would be great. I will gladly pay for shipping. You can figure it to 48328. I have paypal if you take that, or I can get a money order. Let me know if you still have the flange. Thanks, Jason

To remove my spindle pins I took it to the local machine shop and just had them press them out. It was $25 for the pair. I cut them with a hack saw to remove the control arm, then took them over to be pressed out. The rear control arm bushings are removed the same as the fronts. Cut the outer housing and drive it out. I bead blasted my suspension parts and powder coated them, but you can sometimes take them to a machine shop and have them hot tank them for you pretty cheap. It's faster and less work than doing it all manually. Plus it gets all the rust. The electrolytic method will only get the rust that the plate can "see". There are ways to get into the areas that are hidden, but they don't work to get ALL the rust out. Bead blasting won't get all the rust from the hidden areas either. But I figured since there was a lot of undercoating in there, and it has lasted 30+ years already, it should be fine. Good luck getting it back together, sounds like you are making good progress.

You can go to any auto parts store and get spray silicone. Be careful when you spray it though as it will make your seat and steering wheel slippery if the overspray gets on them too much.

Don't use too much anti-sieze though. The sensor needs metal to metal contact for the ground. That is why the corrosion on the threads was causing a problem.

I could, but then I would have to figure out the ports, If I had a flange, I could just have them make a new one for me with little to no effort on my part. I know someone has an old header they will cut up for me. I am willing to buy it also... Just not too much $$ please.

240Zman, If you cold do that I would appreciate it. Can you also figure out where the ports go and draw them in as well. Having only the outline won't be enough... There is a waterjet company nearby, and I was going to have them make a couple flanges for me out of 3/8 stainless. Let me know if anyone else can help me out. Thanks Jason

I am looking for a header flange for a square port (or round port if you have one) head. I am going to make a custom header and want a flange to work from. If you have an old rusted out header you can cut the flange off, I will have a new one made from it as a template. Let me know if you can help... Thanks Jason

Hey guys, I just want to say it was a great race, I was there. Danica did an excellent job, considering she had all the pressure put on her. I don't think she asked for all the hype, but did a great job handling it. Dan had a very fast car, and was fast all day. If DP had been able to keep her car full rich, and race Dan full out, it would have been awsome. She was passed because she was running out of gas... She earned a lot of fans, and deserves every one. In my section, there weren't very many people sitting when she was leading... Her media attention is great for the sport (IRL), the ratings have been down, and in serious jeopardy of losing any TV time. If her being in the series helps bring viewers in, that's great. It was a little over the top at times, but it kept the Indy 500 in the minds of people outside the midwest.

Do you have the electric pump at the tank as well as the engine mounted pump? Is the electric pump not working? If it stops, it will be hard for the mechanical pump to pull gas thru.

If you connect your timing light to each plug wire and crank it over, you will see if there is spark or not. That is how I found the miss I had when I misadjusted the new Crane XR 7000 pickup. If there is no flash, you have no spark. Make sure you have spark. Check fuel by unhooking the fuel line from the rail going to the carbs. Be sure gas comes out when you crank it over. Disconnect the coil plug wire for this test. No fires please...

When I replaced the strut cartridges on my 240, the new inserts came with new nuts. The new nuts were not like the old ones. The old ones were like the type you would use a spanner wrench on, the new ones would use the Snap-On tool. I used a pipe wrench for both. You should use the new nuts when replacing your struts. The new inserts are meant to be used with the new nuts.

You will be able to get rid of them at $95 each, but it might take a while. The guys doing a 100% restoration are not that many. If you are willing to hold on to them for a long time, it might be worth it eventually.

somecreep, do your doors sag AT ALL? it could be from a misalignment. I would check the alignment closely.

Check the output of the VR. Maybe it's letting too much voltage to the BR. Check voltage at BR, see if it's too high. Was the old BR bad? If so, was it because it kept overheating?

May be able to TIG them back together and be ok for a few more years. I had them on my 69 Chevy truck. The door starts to sag on the hinges and that is where the stress shows up.

I think the 240 and 260 share the same parts. The 280 was different because it was quite a bit heavier. You should be able to just get a set of springs (I used Suspension Techniques) and lower your car 1.5". If you want a stock-like ride, them you could get the Eibach progressive rate springs.

Glad to see you got it solved. I know the rear seal is bad on my car, as soon as I get it back together (still haven't got the spindle pin out) I will address the rear hatch seal. I haven't been able to move the pin from either my housing or the one you gave me to try.

To remove the spindle pin bolt (1st pic), you should loosen the nut until it just covers the top of the bolt, then drive it with a hammer to loosen it. Remove the nut and drive it the rest of the way out. If you mushroom the bolt, it won't fit thru the hole. Good luck with the spindle pin.