Pop's Z

Brian, Check your notifications...you have a PM. Cheers, Mike

Wrap the channel-locks with a rag, grip tight, and wiggle it out. They are stuck in there pretty good if it's never been out.If you have trans fluid in there it might be messy(I would drain the trans first making sure the fill plug will come out). Good luck. Cheers, Mike

No, I'm not actually. Here in Colorado we live in a very dry climate, I don't drive it in the rain if it can be avoided, and I check the carpets and underpad somewhat frequently. I have sealed the rubber plugs so no moisture gets in from underneath, and I haven't noticed any moisture getting in from outside. So far, so good. The product I used is not that different from the very expensive products available for sound deadening, just much cheaper. Cheers, Mike

For a not-as-expensive heat shielding in your car try duct insulation. I got mine at Lowes and it comes in several sizes. It has an adhesive back and about 1/8" insulation topped by shiney foil. It has worked out excellently in my car. It was easily cut with scissors and formed to the floors, trans tunnel, firewall, rear deck, etc. While I haven't taken any readings with a decibel meter it seems much quieter and not as hot inside the car. I did lay it over some "Q-Pads" that I had put in previously for sound insulation. Cheers, Mike

FWIW, when I got my car I had the same symptoms. I adjusted the pedal height according to the service manual, and the problems went away never to return. So before you really tear into it check the fluid level and the pedal height. Always try to do the simple things first. Cheers, Mike

Cliff, One thing I forgot was to watch very carefully the plastic vent on the tranny as you start to get the motor/trans out. It likes to be ripped off by speedo cables, brake lines, misc. wires, Etc. Good luck&have fun, Mike

We always set the motor/trans on an old tire to keep the oil pan from getting mushed, then remove the tranny,clutch, pressure plate and flywheel. You can leave them on, but as long as the motor is out it's a good time for new clutch parts. Not too sure if I understand your last setance...raise the front of the motor/trans to take them out. You will need an adjustable load leveler on your hoist. Cheers, Mike

Having done it both ways, pulling the engine/trans as a unit is actually much easier out and back in. It can be a one man job, but it goes better with a friend. Take your time, +1 on the draining or blocking off the rear of the trans, mark your wires as you remove them, have fun. Cheers, Mike

FWIW, I got these panels from Derek and they were well made, fit well, and helped "move" the sound forward. He was easy to deal with and the panels arrived well packaged. They are a good deal. Cheers, Mike

We just got back from a 4 day aspen viewing trip to SW Colorado...Grand Junction (Colorado National Monument), Gateway (really cool red rocks and an awsome car museum that belongs to John Hendricks who started Discovery Channel), Telluride ( big mountains, eye-popping aspen fall colors), Red Mountain pass to Durango( more aspen colors and big mountains). Many of these places were got to on twisty curvey Z car roads with very little if any traffic. I may have exceeded the speed limit a few times. Our timing was perfect as the aspens were at their peak and there are winter storm warnings out for the mountains tonight. Z safely snugged in the garage. The trip reminded me of how much fun these cars really are. Cheers, Mike

Hi Steve, Did you check the pivot point of the clutch pedal? I have seen the pivot hole wallowed out and the pin and the pedal would move in weird ways. I have also found pivot pins being worn out causing the symptoms you describe.FWIW. Cheers, Mike

Glen, That's true for the early models. Mine is steel. Cheers, Mike

Hi Ben, I installed the KYB/Eibach combo on my'73. I did have to use a sring compressor (got it free from Autozone). I put the boots on with a zip tie at the bottom. Hope this helps. Cheers, Mike

Fantastic!! Better than new. Love the bumpers. You can give yourself a big pat on the back...champagne all around. Cheers, Mike

Ah, that is a different kettle of fish. I had the same issue and lubed the pin...didn't have any effect. Then I lubed the spring where it connects with the pedal and voila' no more squeek for about 6 months. I now lube it as part of the overall maintenance plan. Hope this helps. Cheers, Mike

FWIW, try a dab of dielectric grease on the horn thingum that connects the steering wheel to the round copper ring. I had an annoying little squeal and that took care of it. Also check to make sure the combo/turn signal switch is tight. Cheers, Mike

This is very disappointing news. It's just not worth it to drive from Colorado to a one-day show in the parking lot. I went to the 1st show at the park and was very impressed with the venue. Not so much the shows I went to in the parking lot/street. I've always wanted to be in the show since I went to my first one in 2005, but not enough to put up with the heat and crowds at the store (not to mention the local cops waiting behind every bush to pick off the unwary). Oh well, I know it was expensive to put on the show in the park, but many here have offered good suggestions to MSA on how to alleviate some of the costs, but there hasn't been much of a response from the MSA guys. Too bad. Cheers all, Mike

Went on an early morning canyon carving with 2 others of it's kind. After sitting since last November you forget what an absolute blast these cars are to drive. Cheers, Mike

I also agree with Sarah. My car had the typical "bean" aluminum wheels of that era and although I replaced all the front end parts it still had an annoying shimmy at high speeds. Fast forward to last year when I bought a set of 15" Rota RBs. Shimmy vanished. The car runs at speeds of 130+ with rock-steady steering. Just sayin'. Cheers, Mike

I believe all the seat brackets are black. I had a '73 back in 1975 with the off-white interior and those brackets were black...FWIW. My current '73 had the butterscotch interior and the brackets are black. Cheers, Mike

I second the wheel bearings. Check the tightness according to specs. Cheers, Mike

So did many of the front drivetrains on 4X4 pickups 90s era. And they have the benefit of very little use. FYI Kenz240z has one we found in a pick-n-pull. There should be a lot of them in the j.y.s. I got a 4:11 from an 80s era 240 SX, also. Cheers, Mike

On my '73 the rubber part in front is the same as the rubber part at the rear and is available from Black Dragon. Cheers, Mike

FWIW, I moved the choke cables on my '73 to the pre-'73 position when I utilized the original hole for my A/C install. If you remove the firewall insulation (also there is a pre-punched hole in the insulator that hasn't been punched out and it is in the exact place for the hole you need to drill) you will find a dimple in the sheet metal where the hole for pre-'73 choke cables can be drilled. It's right under the throttle control rod mount on the firewall. I found that the longer cables were very stiff resulting in broken levers. By shortening the cables they are much easier to use. Good luck. Cheers, Mike

Actually, the write up on the Vintage system into a '77 280Z was done by zKars on this very site. Credit where credit is due. Cheers, Mike