Pop's Z

Try the easiest, cheapest way first. The tires are probably rubbing on the front valance. In the picture that's where it looks like your problem is. Try rolling the lip of the valance. It worked for me. Mike

FWIW I ordered some parts from MSA today and asked if they were going to have the "big"show this year. My order guy said they are doing the planning and expect to have the "big" show. I realize things can change, but I'm keeping my fingers crossed. I really want to bring my car to the show this year. I was all set to do it last year, but the "big" show was unable to be held. He said to keep watching the MSA wesite for updates. Cheers, Mike

A couple of thoughts: I put a 5spd from a Maxima (same as a '81-'83ZX) in my '73 and also put in an R180 diffy from a 200SX (4:11-1). I bought a red pinion gear to match the rear end from Oliver at Z Specialties and I had to rotate the pinion housing 180 degrees and cut a new slot in it with my Dremel to secure it for the pinion to engage the drive gear inside the tranny. I did NOT have to make any cuts in the trans tunnel for the shifter to clear (I believe that is only required for early series 1 cars). I used the shifter from my 4spd. I am running 205-60/15 Bridgestones on 15X7 Rota RBs and my speedo is accurate. It has been a very successful swap, fairly easy to do and a lot of fun in the canyons around northern Colorado. Cheers, Mike

Also, check the current classifieds here.

Here's another opinion about changing the rear seal. First you should determine if the leaked product is oil or transmission lube. The engine and transmission are much easier to work on when removed as a unit. I have replaced a transmission (4spd-5spd) with the engine in the car, and it is a PITA to get them lined up correctly while lying on your back with the tranny on your chest. It's much easier to do it with the engine/tranny out of the car IMHO. It would be easier to have a partner to help, but not impossible to do yourself...just ask kenz240z. Cheers, Mike

Isn't the arrow supposed to point towards the front of the car? That's how mine is on the diffy and the tranny. Filled correctly w/ RedLine 75-90 and no leaks. When I pulled my diify to replace it w/ a 4:11 R180 from a 200sx the vent was made of metal and the part inside the diffy was slanted towards the rear arrow to the front. Just my 2 cents. Cheers, Mike

Good looking, Scott, especially with the black paint. Cheers, Mike

Hi Scott, +1 for EScanlon's advice to clean and lube the cables. That is why they're stiff. Been there, done that. The other problem is that with '73 and '74 cars the cables were moved to the rt. side of the engine making them more than twice as long as the earlier cars. When I put A/C in my '73 I moved the cables back to the original position. There is a dimple in the sheet metal of the firewall where the old choke cable location was. I drilled it out with a hole saw, installed a new grommet (available from MSA), shortend the cables (one longer than the other to reach the front carb...don't make them too short or you WILL be sorry...measure three times cut once...be sure to pull the wire back behind where you want to cut), and have been happy ever since. The choke works with very little effort so no broken choke knobs. Good luck. Cheers, Mike

We do good work, don't we? The headliner turned out really good, Kenny. No wrinkles! Mike

Also, Sarah, Check the indents that hold the return spring on the pedal and the pedal box. They can get worn. Mine squeaks when it wants a shot of grease...nice of it to tell me. Cheers, Mike

Hi Jim, Those look suspiciously like Strombergs. From a Jag? Mike

Hi Scott, See my pm. 195-65/15s are too small. Your speedo will read fast and the tires will look small to you, also. They will look stretched on a 7" rim. A 215-60/15 will be almost the same diameter as the original 195-70/14s. I went with 205/60-15s due to valance clearance issues, and am happy with the results...my speedo reads a bit fast. Just my 2 cents. Cheers, Mike

Very cool video. Thanks for sharing. Maybe we ought to do this again? Cheers, Mike

OK Jim, you're not crazy. I just re-did my motor (F54, N42) and that's exactly where it is. Damn hard to get to without removing the manifolds. Not impossible, but hard to get any kind of leverage under there. Cheers, Mike

Hi Sarah, It's been my experience that exhaust systems rot from the inside out. Stainless just takes longer. Being that you live by the Bay the external rust will be more of a factor. Also heat breaks down stainless...on my trawler I had stainless pipes custom made to replace cracked turbo exhaust parts. They lasted about 2 years and I eventually replaced them with Yanmar factory cast iron ($$$). I think you will be happy with what you have come up with. FWIW we docked our boat on our trips North and South on the ICW at Willoughby Harbor Marina...right in your neighborhood. We loved the Bay and explored many of it's coves and rivers. Cheers, Mike

PS: You do not need a flex coupler in your system. There is not that much flex and between the motor mounts and the rubber parts of the exhaust hangers, so there just isn't that much flexing to be worried about. IMHO. Cheers, Mike

Hi Sarah, I have that exact (well, not quite...I got the 5" model) muffler on my '73. I have an F54 block, an N42 head shaved w/ a Delta stage 2 cam an MSA header and their 2 1/2" exhaust. The Dynaflow muffler was toast (allthe parts were used) when the system came to me so I replaced it with the Magnaflow. It is a bit loud, but not too annoying. I say this from the perspective of a 65 yr old guy. I am considering putting a Dynomax "bullet" muffler in the tranny tunnel to tone down the noise. There is a drone at around 3K so I tend not to stay at that rpm too long. The "bullet" muffler is just a fancy glasspack so I'm torn about the difference in price. I can get a 12" (18" overall) glasspack for about $20, and the "bullet" is $40. Neither one is stainless. It has been my experience that stainless will break down due to heat after a while so be aware of that. I lived on a boat for 16 years and saw what heat does to stainless parts. I love the magnaflow and would recommend it for what you are wanting to do. Cheers, Mike

The short answer is no. That one is sealed and not re-buildable. I have on just like it. I believe they are a non-Nissan part from an auto parts store. The original fan clutches could be re-built as they could be taken apart. Alas, that one you are showing can't be. You'll have to buy a new one, but try to make sure it can be taken apart if you ever need to re-build it. Cheers, Mike

Or Jim, he can rotate it 180 degrees and cut a new slot. I did that and it works perfectly. Cheers, Mike

Doehring, I also have a late model ZX 5-spd and an R 180 4:11 rear end. I was only able to find the red cog you need from www.zspecialties.com. Oliver( known on various Z websites as zmanofwashington) is a very knowledgable guy and very helpful. My speedo is very accurate as compared w/ a gps. Cheers, Mike

Hi Steve, What were the resonators? Were they glass-packs or someting else (could you give me the part #s)? I have a Magnaflow round 5" on a 2 1/2" exhaust and want to quiet it just a bit. It sounds great, but is just a touch too loud. Thanks. Cheers, Mike

On my '73 the welt does not overlap the plastic interior part. There are a number of "fixes" to silence the squeaking. Try a dab of silicone spray. You can add a thin piece of self-stick foam to the plastic panel. I have successfully used a dab of graphite, too (being very careful not to get it on anything like cloth). On my car there is velour-type material (soon to be removed) wrapped around the plastic piece so there is no noise. We'll see what happens when it's no longer there... Cheers, Mike

"Your Saving Grace" Steve Miller

The seats are a "bolt-in" and are more comfortable and supportive. That's what I got in mine. Cheers, Mike

Bob, You are absolutely right. I shoulda kept my yap shut. Bill and Mel could we just close this thread out? Moderators could you end this thread, please? Thank you. Cheers, Mike