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No, it didn't include the front bumper. Only the rear and all 4 guards. I talked with less expensive places I found online, but by the time I added shipping both ways, they would have been as much or a little more. The good news is Keystone did a nice job. Terry

Thanks for the additional info, Chris. I suspect the bumper with no holes is what was available to the repair shop at the time it was replaced. I think the guards are probably my originals, too. I've ordered the rubber for it. Steve, those seem like good prices compared to what I paid a couple years back. Keystone Automotive, the big aftermarket parts supplier out of the west coast, has a plating facility in my city, Grand Rapids, MI, so I had them do it. Good work but cost me about $550 for the rear bumper and front and rear guards. Terry

I called Mike at Banzai yesterday to order a bunch of rubber parts and I talked with him about the speedo and hood release grommets. He doesn't know of anyone who has either of those grommets nor the double grommet like in Kats' picture that Mike B refers us to. Mike's advice to me: head to Lowes and see what you can find. He has no immediate plans to reproduce either at this time. On a similar note, Mike has someone updating his website right now. It should be up and running within a week or two, however prices will also be new with increases. He's honoring most of the existing pricing right now, so anyone needing stuff from him should order soon. If you've never talked with him, he's a great guy and very Z knowledgeable Terry

Thanks for the info Mike. I always thought that all 240Z's had the rubber but then I noticed several things while getting ready to order it, so I began investigating after seeing my bumper with no holes. The thing that started it all was one vendor (don't remember who) showed applicability of the rubber beginning with '71. Anyway, that clears it up for me. Terry

Hello Everyone, Ran across this thread while doing research this morn on whether my 4/70 production date was built having rubber on the bumper ends or not. I'm doing a rotisserie resto. I'll start with a little background: my car, which I've owned for 4 years, had been stored for about 8 years before I bought it. Some time prior to that it's apparent, it had been damaged by a RF hit thus requiring RF fender, bumper, etc. being replaced. In my whirlwind disassembly after I got it, I didn't notice that there were no front bumper rubber end strips nor holes for mounting them. The bumper was in excellent condition so I didn't have it plated with the rear, but I did have the bumper guard (over riders) plated. The other day after discovering no holes in the bumper for mounting rubber, I started wondering about the bumper rubber. I dug out the original (?) guards I had plated, and they have the cutout to go over the bumper rubber. Did some research and came up with the same part numbers that Mike did and it would seem that maybe cars built prior to 6/70 didn't have the rubber. I have a downloaded 1970 Z sales brochure which almost appears to NOT have rubber on the front bumper ends, although the clarity is such that's it's not conclusive. I'll attach below. This brings up a couple of questions: 1) Did the early Z's have rubber? 2) If not, I would think the guards would not have a cutout for rubber, so were my guards added later? I'll add a pic of my bumper before disassembly. Thanks, Terry http://s301.photobucket.com/albums/nn44/tsekc/?action=view&current=118-1844_IMG.jpg http://s301.photobucket.com/albums/nn44/tsekc/?action=view&current=Page6.jpg http://s301.photobucket.com/albums/nn44/tsekc/?action=view&current=Pages23.jpg

Mike, I talked with Mike at Banzai a couple years ago and they had them, although they weren't shown on the site. At that time they were $25, but I'm sure they've gone up. I should have bought one then. It would have been a better investment than the stock market. T

I saw last night while digging through my purchases from 2 years ago that David at Courtesy told me the speedo grommet was NLA. Mike, I found a pic last night (although not a grreat one) that shows that both my speedo and hood release went through the same hole like yours. That's what had me confused: the hood release grommet, which I've also attached a pic of, looked as though it should have it's own hole but I couldn't find the hole in any of my pics. The body is at the paint shop so I couldn't look first-hand. So, my 4/70 production still had just one hole. Guess if it comes down to it, I wouldn't be opposed to adding the 2nd hole even though I'm trying to stay mostly original. I'm finding neither the speedo nor the hood release grommets in anyone's catalogue. Anyone know of a source? Terry http://s301.photobucket.com/albums/nn44/tsekc/?action=view&current=117-1769_IMG.jpg http://s301.photobucket.com/albums/nn44/tsekc/?action=view&current=100_3630.jpg

OK, thanks. I was going to look up the numbers this evening and see if I could get them. I dug through my boxes and found the hood release cable today. I was wrong about it being a regular grommet. At one time it was the type with the boot on it like the accel. cable, engine harness, etc., but the boot had been torn off. Thanks for the info. I'll see if I can come up with a number for the hood release grommet.

Which holes and type of grommet. Actually, I know where the speedo cable goes but it didn't have a grommet on it when I bought the car so was curious what type is supposed to be on it. The hood release cable I'm not sure of the hole. The cable has just a regular grommet on it as opposed to the booted kind.

vercingetorix (or anyone), Do you have any pics of the speedo and hood release coming through the firewall? Out of my hundreds of pics at disassembly, I don't have a good shot of those and forget how the grommets were. Thanks, Terry

Randy, Correction on my terminology: I called it an a/c solenoid. It's the a/c relay for carrying the heavy draw to the a/c compressor. And your vintage aligns with the a/c that was put on my '70, 4/70 #3212. Terry

Randy, I'm pretty sure then that it's the a/c relay. I figured out how to add a picture in my post above. Think there were about 4 wires coming from it. One went forward to the a/c compressor, the others went inside to the temp control, etc.

Randy, Do you have a/c? From your pic, it looks similar to my a/c relay which was mounted in about the same location. Pic is below. Terry

Thanks to all for the input. I have followed the dashboard forums over the last couple years and was aware of the Australian shipment. I was looking for some more recent observations by members to see if anything had changed with the US vendors. I got all of the info today that I had requested so I'll give a brief synopsis. Just Dashes cost has increased to $1200. They're including a glovebox recover for free at the present time. If I understand their explanation correctly, they remove the old vinyl, repair the foam as needed, then add a complete new layer of foam on the top before putting the new vinyl on. This seems to be same process used by all 3 I checked with. The vinyl is haircell texture, which again is common to all 3. They don't require it, but you can send your gauges along for fitting. They also recover consoles for $450. Dash Specialists, which is the Oregon company Mike mentioned, charges $1000 for a Z dash. Their process is the same and also don't require gauges to be sent but will accept them for fitting. Dashboard Restorations USA charges $850, as mikemerkury and duffman said. Process is the same. They want you to send all 5 of your gauges, the two air vents on each end, and the glovebox door so that fit can be properly done. They also clean and paint the glovebox door to match the dash. They recover consoles for $195. All 3 vendors were courteous and helpful when I talked with them. My impression is the same as what Chris stated: you probably will get a good job by any of them. I think my choice is gong to be Dashboard Restorations based on the good experiences of others stated here, price, and when talking with Pete there, he went the extra mile to make me comfortable with what I would get. Hope this info is helpful. Thanks again for everyone's input. Terry

Hey Mike, Thanks for the info. I'll contact them and get a quote, then post the findings. Terry

Hey Guys, I'm close to needing to get my dash restored for reassembling my '70. I'm not finding any postings on recent vendor experience with either Just Dashes or Dashboard Restorations USA. Can anyone who has had a dash restored by either in the last year or so give a testimonial as to quality and satisfaction? I stopped by Just Dashes a couple of years ago while in the Van Nuys area, and they appeared to do good work, although at the time they seemed expensive compared to Dashboard Restorations. That may have equalized some since I just got a quote from Dashboard Restorations for $850 which was Just Dashes price back then. Just Dashes hasn't responded to my inquiry yet, so maybe they've increased considerably also. I know Will (hls30) had some minor issues on his dash done by Dashboard Restorations when they were just opening shop in the US. Wondered if those quality issues had improved. Thanks for any input anyone can give. Terry

Thanks for all the pics and input, Guys. After analyzing all of your pics, I determined that my bracket was indeed too high. I was able to break the welds loose on the bracket at the front of the cross member, rebend the L on the bracket to that it would pivot down, and then rewelded it to the cross member. I lowered it about an inch and now the front apron and grill align properly. Undoubtedly it got knocked out of position when the right front was hit, but it was not repaired. When they put it back together, they didn't bother to secure the middle of the grill nor the apron. Thanks again for your help. Terry

Hi everyone. Does anyone have some good pics of the attachment of the front apron and grill to the bracket on the front cross member? Something is amiss with mine. I searched all of the gallery pics and it appears the bracket on the cross member should come off nearly perpendicular (parallel to the ground). As you can see from the attached pic, mine comes off at maybe a 20 degree up angle. This would explain why the grill and lower apron were not attached in the middle to anything when I got the car and disassembled it. I've attached a pic of how it was before disassembly. The car had front end damage (and repaired) previously. I suspect this is why the bracket is bent up some, although the structure shows little damage. Thanks for any help you can give. Terry

You can add my name to the list for one of the boots. Terry

I got my doors back, so did a hinge check the other day. I was reusing the original top hinges (series 1), but was hoping to use the later bottom hinges (series 2). I told Jim in a PM that I think the series 2 hinges I have are from a '72 or '73 since the original color was the lime green. If I looked at the color charts correctly, that color was offered only in those years. All of the hinges were disassembled for rebuilding so I ran a 5/16" rod through the hinge pin holes on the halves and put them on a surface plate to check alignment before I reassembled them. The original series 1 hinge halves and the later series 2 hinge halves seemed to be identical with regard to hole centers. I reassembled the hinges and hung the doors on my body. The alignment was perfect with the series 2 bottom hinges and original series 1 top hinges used. I did add an .080" shim under the LH top hinge and a .030" shim under the RH top hinge. For reference, my original bottom hinges had a "D292" on the casting and the later model hinge with the cam-style stop had "D302" on its casting. These were for the LH hinges; I don't think I ever looked at the RH numbers. Here is a link to a write-up I ran across on hinge rebuilding: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/body/doorhinge/index.htm This article has some good info in it, i.e., alternate Nissan numbers for bushings and pins. I'm still waiting to hear from David at Courtesy to see if he can still get the correct bushings. Hope this info is of value. I can snap some pics if anyone thinks they would be useful. T

I've exchanged PM's with Jim (a7dz) about this and was in the process of changing the hinges on my '70 restoration project when I got the info on the possible problem. My doors are at the painter's being epoxy primed right now, but when I get them back in a day or so I'll try installing the later hinges I have and hang them on the body to see what happens. Terry