=Resurected280=

I love that I can drive around for months at a time without seeing another one (I live in the rust belt) and that no one under the age of 40 knows for sure what it is. And the performance too of course :-)

In my experience with POR-15 if you dont use metal ready before you paint it will not adhere to the metal at all or provides very poor coverage. POR is a great product but you have use their methods to apply it or it doesnt work as well as it should.

very nice car with alot of cool mods, although I dont think itd be much of hit on this site . The guys at hybridz would probably love it though.....

eh, I'm not too sure about the looks of this one either, it does look less like a toad but I dont know that it looks better or more like the origionals (I still think they should have called them 350ZX's). It still needs to be lighter smaller and handle better IMO!!! Thats my 2 cents......

This may be a better question to ask at hybridz.org if you havent already, they have an unbelievable amount of info on this kind of stuff, good luck.

up to #67386 now

I would like a 300+ hp 3.1L L28 engine for my car (naturally aspirated), but since this would be unreliable as all hell, probably louder than a 747 at take off and cost too many $'s/hp in my opinion I'm going to keep researching that LS1/T-56 combination thats soooo tempting. Oh, I would also like to add a POR-15 coating to my entire car while I'm at it .

, little things like that are always such a kick in the pants when youre trying to tackle bigger, more important problems. Good luck and dont forget to post some pics of your progress!

Biggest tip I can give you here is to make sure you get car up high enough to get the bellhousing out from under the car. When I did this job I didnt have enough room and I had to jack the car up again (this becomes a pain in the arse if you only have one jack). This isnt really a hard job though and can be done by someone with decent mechanical knowledge, I highly recommend using a transmission jack though. I got the one from harbor freight too and it worked very well for me. Good Luck and have fun!

I went with the MSA kit and I've been happy so far. I havent installed all the bushings yet though, I havent had time to dissasemble the rear control arms and differential support gear yet. I replaced all the front end bushing and put in new inner and outer ball joints while I was at it and it made a huge improvement in my steering percision and feel. As coastguard said though you will need quite a bit more bushing lube than what the MSA kit gives you. Autozone usually has some of this in stock (Energy Suspension brand) or they can order it for you pretty quick. BTW, you guys I think this qualifies as thread hijacking. =)

What a POD award? I havent heard that one before.

For me it was the curves, the handling and the fact these cars to me are a hot rodders dream. Theres a ton of ways to build up the suspension and you get quite a bit of power out an L-series engine. Theres also quite a few engine conversions you can do if you want to get crazy horsepower. Also because of the area I live in they are rare here (I live in MA aka the rust belt) so the uniqueness is also key.

Ok, I completely disconnected the rear sway bar from the body this afternoon and had no sqeaks. So I lubed up the sway bar bushings, reinstalled them and now its quiet as can be :stupid: so, ya, go figure. Thanks again everyone. =)

ok, thanks guys, I'll try something with the sway bar tomorrow and report back with what I find, that does sound like a more likely source than the MB, so we'll see =)

Ahhhhhhh, jmortensen, that just made me think of something, I did replace the swaybar and end-link bushings with urethane while I was back there also (I did not do the control arm bushings though). Would this be a more likely culprit?

I did replace other bushing with the MB bushings, but they were all in the front end, the MB bushings are the only ones I replaced in the back of the car. These are bushings from MSA btw.

Yes, I did grease all the surfaces of the bushing, I also put extra inbetween the two halves of the bushings hoping maybe this would help. One other thing though, each time I took the bushings out to grease them again the outer surface of the bushing that contacts the MB itself had almost no silicone left on it (I think it all pushed out when I tightened them, I used factory specs here). I dont know whether its supposed to do this or not but I thought it was kind of odd.

Hey Everyone, I have a question that I have not found an answer to through the search function that is driving me crazy at the moment. I installed urethane mustashe bar bushings in my car (the 280Z in my signature) to replace the mushy and very old rubber ones this summer. The bushings however have sqeaked, creaked and groaned very loudly since I did this (I did use the silicone lube that came with them) and today I took the bushings out again and regreased them with ALOT of bushing lube and they still make tons of noise. I did this two more times today with no sucess at making the noise go away. My question is does anyone know of any tips or tricks in putting these in or applying the lube to them? Also does anyone know how much of a difference these bushings actually make? If this noise does not go away I'm changing them back to stock. (yes the noise is that loud) Thanks =)

Definitely put up a post if youre going to part out anything on your "new" car!!! I'd be very interested in the lower front valence, gas cap door and maybe a headlight bucket if youre not using them and the parts are better than what I currently have. Keep us posted.

I would say this is a thread issue, I have found that quite a few aftermarket Z parts (especially cheap ones or generic things like brake line fittings or sway bar end links for instance) have SAE heads or threads when they should be metric . I would try the flare nut in the old 3 way junction and see if it threads in normal or something like that.

I got a bad MC (rebuilt) from a local parts store, but, I didnt bench bleed it either (a seal in the MC got flipped backwards and ripped when they assembled it I found out upon further inspection). I must have tried to bleed my brakes for 3 hours and got absolutely nowhere. My MC was a Nabco as well. I would try one from a parts store and see if it works if you dont see anything wrong with the system, from my memory theyre not too much money for a rebuilt one. Just a suggestion, good luck =)

Ohhhhhhh boy, its up again , $10,500 buy it now, no reserve this time though. Bids are starting at $5,000, probably a little more reasonable. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-240z-fairlady-z-look_W0QQitemZ230016349990QQihZ013QQcategoryZ6187QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Okay then, suggestions? Me and Andrew are obviously not the only ones with this problem and my car in particular has been family owned since new and my uncle informed me that it always had this vaporlock problem (or whatever it is), even after repeated visits to the dealership trying to remedy this.

Thank you, this does help, this is how I thought vaporlock worked too but I wasnt sure. The reason I wanted to get the pump to run by itself is because I was hoping that having just the pump running like that would push the air out of the lines and back to the tank, and therefore put fresh gas in the fuel rail. My fuel pump does work correctly (its only a year old) but I think it only runs for a few seconds when I turn the ignition to the on position. I also dont have any leaks that I know of, the only mechanical problem my car has is on hot starts it does exactly what mr man 21's car does. Sorry for the confusion here. I guess what I was trying to ask is would the fuel pump be able to on its own push this air out of the fuel rail? I was thinking that this would bring fresh fuel into the rail and avoid the hot start problem. Just as an additional question, can vapor lock happen while a car is running? I wouldnt think so but I'm not as sure about my knowledge of vaporlock as I was =)