=Resurected280=

Thanks for the responses guys. I cant wait to get this system put on!!! :classic: :devious: IMO Z's sound awsome, theyre just too quiet for my tastes.

Hello Everyone, Well, I finally, after much research on this site, decided the exhaust system I will be running on my 280Z. The set-up: 2.25" exhaust tubing 18" Summit glasspack as a resonator dynomax utra flo oval mufflerhttp://www.dynomax.com/ultrafloweld.stm stock manifold (my engine is stock BTW) I chose this system because I want my car to be :devious: loud :devious: but not send my neighbors scrambling for their shotguns when I go to work in the morning, or cause my car to sound like a rice rocket. My question is this; will this set-up provide enough backpressure for a stock engine??? The reason I ask this is because while the dynomax I will be using is an oval style muffler its in reality a fancy looking glasspack (so far as I can tell, check out the link to see what I mean) and I dont want to lose a lot of midrange torque from this system. SEAN240Z are you out there??? I think you have a very similar system. BTW any opinions on this system in general are also welcome (volume, tone resonance, etc.) Thanks!!!!! :classic: Derek

The in line filter would cause a restriction in flow but it should be minimal, I cant imagine it would cause a noticable difference in performance but I have never tried this so I cant say for sure. One other thing that you could do with your tank is send it to Gas Tank Renu USA http://www.gastankrenu.com/ these guys are a little pricey (they quoted me $400 to do my tank) but they will cut your tank in half and do whatever is necessary to make the tank good again (welding, patching, etc.) and then reassemble and reline the tank. If you look around there are other threads on this site that get into what they do in more detail.

A quick release steering wheel is a good one even if you just hide it under the seat after you disconnect it, just the fact that the wheel isnt there will deter most non-professional car jackers, dont know if they make such a thing for Z's though.

Oh and one other thing the shop only charged me $110 for this job last summer.

I had a very rusty gas tank when I began restoring my Z (a '78 280Z) and I also had to have the gas tank relined. Most of the people that I talked to about the do-it-yourself kits (older guys that restore american cars for the most part) said that the do it yourself kits are more meant to do motorcyle tanks and tanks off of carbureted cars. The reason for this I was told is that the lining material can clog a pick up line if your not careful and this is a pain to fix if this happens. What I ended up doing with my tank, which was VERY rusty, was I sent it a radiator shop that was experienced in this kind of thing to have it boiled and relined. They ended up having the tank for about a week, they spent 3 or 4 days just boiling it, and I had to let the lining cure another couple days before I installed the tank but it was well worth it because the car now runs awsome. So far as the question about the screen and the patch i'm not sure what to do there but some one this site must know. Good Luck!!!!!!!!!

Congrats datto, that looks like a very good starting point point to me. Can't beat it for the money either :-).

For any one watching this thread, there is a review of a dynomax super turbo muffler in the product reviews section of the site thats pretty informative.

Does anyone out there have a sound clip of a reasonably tuned or stock Z with just a turbo muffler or a turbo muffler with a glasspack? I've heard alot exhaust mp3 clips of people's exotic setups (3.1 liter motors, dual exhausts, twice pipes, turbos, huge cam+carb setups etc.) but not much in the way of stock or reasonably close to stock Z's with just a turbo muffler, or a turbo muffler and a glasspack. Thanks, Derek.

One other place you probably want to check for rust if you have surface rust to begin with is the area under the cowl inbetween the hood and the windshield. I thought my car was gonna be an easy bodywork project until I dove into this area. Good Luck and Welcome to the Site!!!!!!!!!!!

One more suggestion on a set of centerlines that I think look good and are also different (these will be going on my 280Z once I save up the money). http://www.centerlinewheels.com/wheel_deals_detail.php?id=504&type=vehicle&data=22

Does anyone know if its possible to put bigger wheels the Z in Forza Motorsport? Because the wheels/tires (and the handling) that the car has in this game dont do it justice.

I've seen this car before, it was a project car that Car and Driver Magazine featured in one of their "budget beater" race series features.

Hi All, I have a question for those of you out there that are using a 40 series flowmaster muffler. I am going to be installing this muffler on my car (an otherwise stock '78 280Z) and was wondering whether or not you should keep the stock pre-muffler when using this muffler. Any advice would be greatly appreciated since I really dont know much about the pre-muffler or how it would affect an aftermarket exhaust. Thanks, Derek.

Just one other suggestion to fixing your tank, some (not all) radiator shops will "boil" (kinda like a high pressure steam cleaning) your tank for you and will re-line/seal it as well. The only downside I found to this is that this process will probably take at least a week if the tank is very rusty and about another week after that if you wait for the liner to fully cure before you install the tank. I had this done to the tank on my 280Z, which had sat for 17 years, and it took about 2 weeks to have it done but it only cost $75, and it has worked flawlessly ever since. And there was A LOT of rust in my tank. Hope this helps!!!

I cant belive there's actually people bidding on that thing..............It'll probably end up on a civic :sick: and yes that 1200 is awsome.

When I did this on my 78 280 (5 speed) I just removed the exhaust where it meets the manifold. It was a little more time consuming but it made the whole job go alot easier. Just my 2 cents

Another word of warning about wipers (I know this because I did it :stupid: ) but if you mount the pivots 180 degrees out of position the linkage can also become jambed. This did not bend the linkage but my motor did make an awful grinding noise when this happened. Also this a an absolute pain to get unstuck.

Thank you dogma240 this does sound like its going to help!!! The shift from neutral to first is fine so long as you are going VERY slow, under 5 mph usually, and reverse I've never had any kind of problem with. The fluid was changed before the clutch was changed. BTW I am I am running the same transmission set up as you and I am using the stock dimensions for the clutch pedal adjustment that I pulled out of my Datsun shop manual.

Im not sure what was written on the bottle but I could find out, I think I still have it some where. It might be syntetic actually which would explain why it might be too slippery. So far as the clutch goes ChrisA, I was also thinking that maybe the clutch was not working properly (it'd never been replaced before I owned the car) but after I replaced it there was no difference in the shifting quality. I think im going to try a lighter weight non sythetic oil this weekend, I'll definetly let everyone know how it turns out. :-)

Sorry I should have been a little more specific. This is a five speed manual, and I did fill it until the fluid came out the filler hole. The car was also level(not just jacked up on one end) when I put the fluid in so it should have the right amount in it. I dont think the fluid would cause this problem either but I wouldnt think the synchros would be this worn out after 80,000 miles. That and it didnt do this when I was running the old fluid in it. Since this problem started I have changed the clutch and pressure plate and all the plastic bushings around the shifter lever itself. This car also has a recent MSA steel braided clutch line, clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder just as a side note. Thanks for all the replies!!!

Hello to Everyone Out There!!! This is my first post that I've made on this site so please frogive me if I say anything dumb :nervous: . I have a 78 280Z with the five speed, all stock, which I pulled out of the woods last spring after it sat behind my house for the last 17 years (this was my uncle's old car) I now have it running awsome and inspected but I have a problem that I have not been able to solve. I just recently changed the transmission fluid and it now shifts hard from first to second gear unless it is very warm out or it has been driven for quite a while. It did not do this before I changed the fluid and all other gears shift fine. The magnet had very little sludge on it and the fluid was fairly clean and the car only has 80,000 miles on it.(I only changed it because of its age) My question is what weight oil do you guys and gals use?(I think this is the culprit) The new fluid I put in is Lucas 80w90, I think. Any help would be greatly appreciated because i'm stumped. Thanks!!!

This is a piece of information that I picked up from the JTR conversion manual so im not sure if it applies here but they said that removing the rear sway bar is good because it will keep a high horsepower z car from spinning its inside rear tire during hard cornering. But this is for a V-8 Z mind you :-)