VaGuS510

Hello there. Any of you guys intrested in a Skyline GTR? it is a 1990 with 76000km on it. My borther is in the Air Force over their. He will be coming home soon and needs to sell the GTR he had imported. The car is being repaired right now, it had a spun rod bearing on the #6 cylinder. It will also have a new clutch when finished. If any of you are interested let me know. I think he wants $7000 USD but I'm not sure maybe euro.

I think that the transmission will work on a Z-car. I know that in a Datusn 510 people commonly swap a dogleg 5-speed that i think comes from a 200sx. Give it a check, if reverse is where first normally is then you probably have a useable transmission. Only thing is that those transmissions can't take much power, probably 200-250hp. That is if you would really want a dogleg 5-speed, the mount would be in the wrong place also. Doglegs are normally desired for autocross because the 2-3 shift is striat up and down, making the most common shift happen quicker.

My '73 Z set me back $1200. It was mostly original. It had a repaint, a crappy repaint. But everything was there. The engines valve and piston kissed so that set me back a little. Right now I would say I have $2000 total into the car (with the $1200) I had to replace all of the brakes ($300), I swapped in a L28($150). New wheels and tires ($270). Belltop SU carbs($150). The body is mostly strait, the roof looks like something sat on it a few times. Only major rust is on lower drivers quarter in front of the wheel. I have another $500 of suspension parts ready to go on it once i have the time. Oh yeah, their is a crack on the dash (this reminds you that it is a Datsun), and the carpet is in pretty bad shape. To answer your question, $5500 for a good condition Z sounds right to me. Consider the cost of parts and labor to get a beater Z into good shape and it will be well over $5500. Then again, few cars are worth the money that is dumped into them.

I wouldn't ever, no matter how fast it is going (or how fast I am passing it) , would think that is a Ferrari, not even for a second. Even if it was bright red.

Also, does the sound get louder with speed? Can you always hear it or only during acceleration/deceleration? We really need more info.

I am interested in the flowmaster 80-series mufflers. They are for Corvette and Camaro but i like the sound. It is quite but audible at idle and screams when you get on it. I have heard that the 40-series leads to some interior resonance. It is really one of the louder mufflers that flowmaster makes.

Tommo, the Z looks awesome. What color is that? I really like it. In fact, I think you just helped me settle on a color choice. I always like silver but never liked the fact that chrome and silver don't really contrast enough to make the chrome look obvious. I guess that is why your bumpers are black. Anyways, nice Z.

The best of both worlds. Modern technology with the original classic look Take a stock 240z, enter RB26DE (yes DE, no turbos), drop that in their, give it aftermarket fuel injection but use old weber sidedrafts as your throttle bodies so it looks carberated, hide the wires an fuel injectors. Make the whole engine look like it was made in 1970. No paint on the valve covers, aluminum or better yet, a tarnished copper. No plastic in on the engine, NA you could make 250-300 RWHP probably. That is plenty. Replace your halfshafts with CV joints, and give it a limited slip while your at it. Lower stance, but by no means slammed. About one inch lower, but do it the right way, not just springs, leave the suspension geometry 100% original, maintain that travel you need, This would be hard but worth it(I have my ideas). All the suspension powdercoated, but not a bright color, black or silver. Give it some sway bars and upgrade front and rear brakes. Interior, leave the stock look, but upgrade materials where possible. Leave stock steering wheel or a simular vintage style. Exterior, no flares. Chrome mirrors, upgrade those headlights to xenon, Panasport wheels (16" at max, not less then 50 profile), clean chrome bumpers, no rubber moldings, no b-pillar badge, no antanna, make sidemarkers flush with body, get rid of all badging (except on the hood), get rid of the rear hatch button thing(maybe?), door handles stay, key holes go. Lastly, this maigh be a little extreme but leave that front valence benieth the bumper but lower it about 2-3 inches so that the bottom of it is at the same height as the rocker panel. Remove the seam between the headlight bucket and the fender, do the same for the rocker to quarter seem. Lastly, I always liked the honeycomb grill. That would be my dream car.

My brother works in a body shop in San Rafael, but if you are talking a complete paint job, you probably arn't interested because they arn't cheap and your schedule has to be pretty open. They do great work but don't really like to take on a full paint job. My guess is at least $6,000 and that would be if you do all of the assembly/disassembly and if there is minimal body work required. But when I say they do good work, I am talking almost show quality. If it was any better you would be afraid to drive the car. If you are interested in contacting them let me know but you would have to convince them to paint your car.

From what i understand my electric booster pump only goes on when the engine is above 600 rpms, is this true? If it is, then wouldn't it be safe just to tap into that wiring? I know for a fact that it doesn't run when the engine isn't running.

All you have to do now is record it hls30.com. I hope your voice is better then mine.

Thanks, I searched for electric fuel pump and found the stuff about the RX7 pump. I think i am going to do that. I might check the wrecking yard near me, but I don't always trust stuff from those places. If I find one that looks to be in good shape I will grab it. Also, I have a 73 240z so could i just wire it using the wires that are down there for the original pump? That pump is supposed to run when the engine is over 600rpm right. Seems like it should work to me. Anyone have experiance doing this? Thanks.

I got the idea from a Toyota advertisment that i saw a few days ago, and a little bit Dire Straits never hurt nobody. Anyways, I am planning on replacing my fuel pump. This seems like a good idea because the one on the car currently is old, really old. It sat on the car for 12 years without pumping an ounce of gas, I imagine that the diaphram (sp?) is cracked. I was thinking about just replacing it with an electric fuel pump. Any suggestions as far as a good pump to use. I searched the forums for MPG and found most people get about 15-20 in the city. I found I got 12.5 mpg because I went only 150 miles and my car took 12 gallons at the pump. The driving was city with a little freeway (a couple miles every trip). Sometimes I let it warm up for a few minutes, and other times I just take off, either way the choke is only on for a few minutes. Thanks for the replies.

I will check the fuel pump out, that is something I didn't think of. I am sure the carbs are fine. This is the second set that i have had on the car and both resulted in bad gas milage. Plus it seems to run well, it doesn't bog down or anything. It doesn't have much power but that is expected.

Also, their is no obvious gas leak, if it did leak it would have to be while the engine is running and reving because it doesn't leak while sitting at idle, or when i leave the car sit for a few days.

Also, my oil seams thin, it drips off of the dip-stick. It was replaced less then 500 miles ago, and it is almost as black as 3000 mile old oil.

I have a problem, I get 12.5 mpg. What is wrong? The car runs fine. If it isn't warmed up I have to rev it out to get going without it backfiring. That tells me that car is running lean. I also have an air/fuel ration gauge that tells me the engine is running lean. The spark plugs also tell me that the engine is running lean, they are all white on the tips. So...how am i getting 12.5 mpg when my Z is running lean. Setup: 1973 240z w/L28, round top SU carbs, header, 4 speed All miles were city and I even drove the car easy the whole time. My only guess: The manual says the white tips on the sparkplugs are a sign of the car running lean or the sparkplugs not seating well. If spark plugs arn't seating well then they arn't providing a good seal. Could the same symptom be from bad piston rings. This engine is old and i am sure it has over 100k miles, it makes valvetrain noise and such. If my assumption is right and my rings are bad, would I get bad gass milage? Also, my compression is 130-140 psi. A leakdown test might tell me more. Let me hear what you think. Thanks.

Show car = no drive = not a car

just chacked the fuses again and believe it or not the fuse was broken. The metal was broken and so if i pushed it together it worked. I replaced it and all is well. It looked good and didn't respond when i previously twisted it. I am glad it was this simple. Thanks again.

i forgot that i posted this, I was on little sleep when i did it. Thanks for all the replies, i think i can figure it out from here.

The proportions must say S30, long hood with a hatchback The engine must be a strait six hidden under that long hood(I know, dream on) There need to be three gauge pods on the top center of the dash It needs to loose some weight (keep under 3000lbs.) It must have the best technology but within a budget, meaning Miata price range. The rest of the design should be up to the designer. I don't know if you all noticed or not, but the S30 has some awkward looking lines and shapes. Personally i think the DB9 would be great with a Z badge on it, but it wouldn't be very retro. Only the profile would be simular, but that is it. Everything else would be completely unique. The coke bottle shape isn't Z at all. The rear hatch shape isn't anything like any z ever was. I am not saying I would like a DB9 Z, I just mean that the DB9 is as much Z as the 350Z, but it would be a step in the right direction.

My front passenger side headlight is very dim on my 73 240z. I am sure it is a ground problem. Before i go tearing into anything I want to know where this light grounds. Does it ground on the actual mount or does it have a ground running to it, does the switch ground it? By the way, the other light works fine. Let me hear what you think.

The front engine Porsches, 924,928, and 924 were great cars. The 944 was one of the best handling cars of its time and made 250 hp from a turbo 4cyl. in 1985! I think Porsche has a problem marketing anything but a 911. The problem is that the 911 doesn't need marketing, it has a loyal fan base that desires a 911 no matter what. These loyal fans see the 911 as the only real Porsche so it is inheriently difficult for Porsche to introduce a new product. The Boxter turned out well becase it looks like a Porsche.

Retro designs are rather lame. These designers couldn't think of something new so they remade something old. These designers couldn't even be considered designers. Think about this, what is the next Mustang or Bettle going to look like, they have nowhere to go. Not like Porsche who hasalways evolved their design and made something that looks like a Porsche. I think the car designers that really deserve respect are those designers who make something truely radical, something truely unique. The Next Z should be a car that continues to move forward, but keeps the classic cues that have been lost (the long nose for instance). This is what the Corvette has become. The Corvette design has been constanly changing. In fact the only thing that made the first 3 generations the same car is there name. But i would like to see more 240z in the 350Z. It should cost less, weigh less, and have that long nose at very least. But by no means should it be a 240Z, if someone wants a 240Z they can go buy a 240Z.