2003z

1983 Nissan Sentra, bought new for me by my parents since I got a full ride ROTC scholarship. $4949, the least expensive new car on the market at the time.

I was able to use that diagram, blown up, to dissect 2 butchered harnesses and make on complete one, totally unmolested with every wire labelled for my last car. The wiring is really very simple if you just take the time to trace it out.

Here is the wiring diagram. I was actually able to blow it up and print it out on 12 pages several years ago using paint shop pro, and even at that side, its very legible. edit, it was too big, so I had to downsize it, but it should still enlarge nicely.

could also be the t/s switch, as the current goes through that one also.

I need new seats and found a deal on a pair that I am going to install in the near future.

Unless, of course, you go to Checker's, which has driveups on both sides of the car

Mike, 39.9, Airline pilot. Currently have a supercharged 350Z and just recently bought a 73. Its the 5th 240Z and 7th Z that I have owned.

On my last 240, I rewired the headlights similar to VB's setup. I am going to be doing my new 240s a similar way to theirs. I would have bought their setup if I had not already bought the parts for my own conversion. With my conversion, I run off the alternator directly, but other than that, its the same principle and will give you the same light output as any modern car. The change was incredible, plus you save your headlight switch from having to carry all that current. Did you know that full current even flows to the blue hi-beam indicator? Crazy setup they came up with. Info on the principal behind it here: http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html although, I recommend against purchasing parts from this guy. He is a real jerk who didn't like my choice of lighting products, so he refused to sell me relays.

dont know about the flasher unit, but you might want to dissasemble and clean your switch.

toyota 4x4. 89-92 with vented rotors, earlier without

Interesting, my left spindle pin is frozen in also. I cut the pin on either side of the strut with a sawzall, drilled a pilot hole in the middle of the remaining pin and an air chisel with a pointy tip won't even budge it. Its going to the machine shop for pressing when I get the time. but to my point, in searching spindle pins, it seems common that the right one comes out easily and the left one is frozen.

I didn't have a front bumper to begin with anyway.

Personally, I like it a lot, so much that its in my garage right now. Its got a much smaller 'bumper' bar than the older MSA front that was on my old car. My 240 is bright green with black 240z stripes. I am painting it satin black, since I don't want a complete repaint and have no idea of the paint code. And yes, I'm using those driving lights too, with the embedded turn signal rings. Gonna replace the blue bulb with amber though.

yeah, white/red is the alternator. red/white is the headlights. they also are the only 2 plugs that are physically the same under there and can be unintentionally reversed (I've done it, fried 2 headlight switches and replaced alternator/voltage regulator and various other parts trying to figure out why my lights didn't work and the car wouldn't hold a charge). From your 3rd to last picture, it looks like the alternator wire is a little burned up, or at least dirty.

you should be able to. That is actually the way the 350z service manual says to remove the engine in it. Don't remove the mounts, remove the cross members, if you still have the suspension on, you can leave that too.

From our Z club newsletter (Georgia Z club) For sale: 1972 240Z race car shell. No drivetrain or suspension. Interior gutted but dash complete with gauges and some (rare) white trim pieces still there. Passenger frame rail needs repair, some rust in floorboards (but you will still probably want to cut tese out and put in thicker panels anyway), otherwise, all body panels and glass present and in good condition. $275/0b0. Charles Cote, 404-822-6250 or crcote@mindspring.com

Thanks, I got it figured out. I already had the stub axle removed, but due to age, the 2 pieces were frozen together and appeared as one. I used an air chisel to separate them.

I've got my rear struts totally disassembled to do a rear 280zx brake conversion, and have all the necessary parts, but am trying to figure out how to remove the drum brake backing plate and dust shield from the strut tube assemblies. Do I just unbolt the 4 center bolts, unbolt the 2 10mm bolts holding the brake assembly at the bottom and cut off the 2 welded rivets at the top to remove them? or is there more? thanks! (every brake conversion thread seems to assume this portion is obvious.)

I decided to take my rear assembly to a shop to pull the stub axles and bearings so I wouldn't mess them up without a press to and slide hammer to disassemble them. The bozo at the shop stripped the stub axles, where that crimped nut is. I don't know how, but he stripped about 1/2" of thread on one and 3/4" on the other. Good thing I have another set on the car right now. Like they always say, if you want it done right, do it yourself. I am so po'd right now, plus they still charged me $40!!!!

at least for the 240z's, you also have to disconnect the 4 heater control cables, 2 on the drivers side and 2 on the passengers side.

OK, thanks a lot, I'll go read them now.!

and what is the significance of this B mark? I haven't seen it referenced in my Clymer manual, and haven't really looked at the haynes yet, but I too am in the disassembly stage right now, and trying to save any future headaches.

same wheels in the overstock section are 139/159/184 for 15,16,17

The 280 housings are about .2" wider. The 280 strut inserts should have room to fit in the 240 housings. I'm putting the 280 housings up front and using the 240s in the rear. The rear struts have a 4" spacer under them, so with less of a spacer it should work. If I like the stance of the car, I can have the rear 280 tubes sectioned to the same length as the 240s. Unfortunately, I have to order new bushings, so the car will be in the air for a couple weeks probably.

none that answer my questions though.