2003z

I used www.ucoatit.com on mine. Its epoxy followed by a urethane top coat. It's SUPPOSED to hold up to everything. Cost me $900 for a 3.5 car garage. The good thing with it is the first coat goes on extremely thin, very watered down, which makes the epoxy really soak into the concrete. I have never had any problems with the base coat at all. Its 3 years old now. Bad -M/T ET Streets laying on their side stained it. -I left a mixture of brake fluid and oil on the floor under the car overnite and it stained it yellowish. brake fluid alone, or oil alone, won't do anything to it. -I sprayed too much brake cleaner and didn't wipe it up right away, because they say its impervious to chemicals, but brake cleaner bubbled the urethane. -the 6" strip that is just outside the garage door has bubbled up due to standing water in the rain. Still, overall, its the best floor covering I've ever had in a garage. I put it on new when we bought the house. We actually went from closing, over to the house and immediately started to paint the garage gloss white, walls, and ceiling and install 2 ceiling fans. The neighbors thought we were crazy, but the garage is my most important room!

I got Russell ss hoses from auto zone.

the Z and G-35 are the same platform, as is the FX, its the FM Platform, the G is just stretched 8 inches. I'm gonna have to reserve judgement on it until I see it in person. So far, it really isn't doing it for me, unfortunately.

never mind, I remember they called it the snot rocket now, because its green.

and why does the guy I bought my 73 240z from keep calling it that in email? I've been in the Z car world for years, but don't think I've heard this one before.

are they 15s? I love my 205/50 azenis!

Wow, he lives at Love Field!!!! Must be noisy. On the serious side, I'd like the 10/15 misc. interior parts lot/$20 black visors / $10 z wheel caps / $5 misc rubber parts / $12 if the tranny boot is not ripped and your $20 double set of rear finisher panels if they have the center sections. email me 2003z@350zfrenzy.com with a total including shipping to 30052!

that is exactly my intention! doing them for easy sale, not personal use. I was thinking the same thing, or gunmetal with silver on the top. EDIT, if anyone wants some snowflakes, custom coated to whatever you want at a reasonable price, let me know! I think I have 16 lugnuts too, but no centercaps.

14" slot mags with Falken Azenis RT 195/60-14s (not in use, 1 is my spare) 15x7 Konig Rewinds, Falken Azenis RT 205/50-15 15" snowflakes, getting ready to powdercoat and sell them. Plus 2 sets for the Magnum and 2 sets for the corvette.

I've replaced my snowflakes with konig rewinds, and want to sell them on ebay. I am going to powdercoat them first, but was wondering what color would work best. Should I go with the original gold center, or something different, like gunmetal or 'almost chrome'? any other ideas? I was also thinking of having the outer rim and the raised part silver, and a different color in the recessed areas. This is a new looking one, mine are nothing like this at the moment.

nice video, now I need to do a search on seafoam, because I hadn't heard of it before and don't know what it does! Clean the engine, I presume

firstly, put some miles on it. Mufflers need a little time to break in, and they usually mellow a little bit. After that, I would suggest going to a flowmaster muffler. It will probably have the deeper tone you are after.

white also hides bodywork imperfections.

thanks for the article! Keep 'em coming please!

I have a setup using 280 front hubs and a spacer that is about 1/4" thick. With the vented setup, the brakes don't clear my 15x7 +0 Konigs. If you used the thicker spacer with 240 hubs, they will. btw, did my first track event with these brakes, hawk blues in front and 280zx rear discs with standard pads and had no fade at all, even with a couple 40 minute sessions. They were awesome!

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=101740&highlight=nasa+konig bubble, its not over the car, but a couple feet from it.

Its an R180, but I think its actually the axle, since the side flange for the diff is bolted on. I felt something give when I was pushing down on the control arm with the axle still attached.

thanks. You have to trim about 3 inches of the front of the flares to make them work with the airdam. Also, a lot of people use VW welting between the flare and the fender. I used 3m trim adhesive tape from pepboys instead, which also held the flares attached while I drilled the mounting holes.

OK, so I got the car back together and went to drive it. There is a ticking noise coming from the rear somewhere, whether in gear or not. I put the car on jackstands, turned it on and put it in gear, to see if I could locate the sounds. Couldn't hear anything, but my left wheel wasn't really turning. Every second or two it woud rotate a tiny bit, and if I turned it with my hand, it felt like it wanted to go. Plus, the ticking noise is much louder when turning right, and almost nonexistant when turning left. When I was removing the left rear strut, I forgot to unbolt the axle from the hub at first. Is it possible that I pulled the axle partially out of the differential when I did this? Also, when up in the air and car turned off, in neutral, spinning one wheel does nothing to the other. In gear, they spin opposite directions, which I believe is normal. Whatever the problem, I don't think I'll have it ready for my planned track day next sunday.

its the new msa version 3 bumper, I;ll take pics later today. The Konigs are 15x7 +0 with 1" spacers. I'm running 280 hubs up front for my toyota brakes, because thats what the spacers were made for, and the wheels don't clear the brake without spacers. With the spacers, the tires sat a little out of the fenders, which led to the flares.

I think I'm gonna paint the lower rocker panels and under the rear bumper black to match the flairs and front bumper, so it will flow better. My wife won't let me paint the hood black.

Oven is for powdercoating, the fridge is for essential hydration! You can see the Z31 brake that I powdercoated 350Z daytona blue for someone today hanging in the first pic here Prox, yes, they are 15" rewinds, from the NASA deal. $275, delivered! Here it is with the flares installed, just finished!

yes, in actuality, every 240 I have owned and lowered has been a little taller in front, I was hoping this would be different.

but the front is still a little higher. about 2 1/2 finger gap at the rear and just over 4 fingers at the front. Any suggestions? Oh yeah, I got one of my ZG flares on. the paint is still drying on the others. I don't know, does it look right? seems like the front should be a little lower.

Dan, the first time took me about 4 hours. I also had to change the front strut housings, as one was bent. (the po gave me a spare suspension, unfortunately, I found out it was damaged after installing it, the only thing salvageable were the illuminas) Tom, the floor is ucoatit, and it holds up ok, better than epoxy, but its also lost some gloss over the last 3 years. Also, they say it is impervious to chemicals, but brake cleaner bubbled up the urethane clearcoat.