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Powderkeg

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Everything posted by Powderkeg

  1. Stanley: I got a Kyosan fuel pump from Auto Parts Warehouse Item # W0133-1758912. It was $18.95 and it works well. Dave Ruiz
  2. Powderkeg posted a post in a topic in Body & Paint
    Try Reaction Research.com <http://www.reactionresearch.com/hoodvents.html>
  3. I'm assuming this isn't the first oil change in it's history. I can't say which oil is the best so I'll let others chime in. I use Castrol Hi Mileage. For oil filters I like Nissan, Baldwin, and K&N. My Z is basically stock and was used as a daily driver. There's a controversy about the quality of Fram filters which you can find in the archives. I'd also do a search for oils as this has been covered before. Dave Ruiz
  4. The thinner one is for a 260Z and the thicker one is for a 240Z. Dave Ruiz
  5. Thanks for all of your replies! Dave Ruiz
  6. Gentleman: Unfortunately I need to sell my 76 280 Z. It's been mostly dormant the past year as other things have taken a priority. It's a 76 280Z with SU roundtops from a 72 240Z. It has a 5-speed transmission from a 77 280Z rebuilt in 2004. It runs well with the exception that it stalls every now and again ( I gave up try to diagnose the problem as I had little time to deal with the car). The fuel tank has been treated with Por-15 and all the fuel hoses have been replaced. It used to be a daily driver and has been kept mostly stock. The big concern in selling this thing is the SU's that have replaced the Fuel injection. It obviously won't pass smog as is and I'm not inclined to return it to fuel injection. Basically this is a running project/parts car. I live in Northern California and my county doesn't have the biannual smog laws (Yet). How would you recommend I go about selling the car? Thanks all! Dave Ruiz
  7. Powderkeg posted a post in a topic in Help Me !!
    Andrew, Try www.trademotion.com. They are a Nissan parts source like nissanparts.com but as Steve wrote: don't get your hopes up. Dave Ruiz
  8. Powderkeg posted a post in a topic in Electrical
    Andy, Congratulations on getting the clock out. I would recommend having Ron at Zclocks.com rebuild the clock for you. Dave Ruiz
  9. Powderkeg posted a post in a topic in Interior
    I can vouch for Ron at Zclocks. He refurbished the Timer clock that you see in my Avatar (which is for sale). He also has done a standard clock as well. They are both running great! Dave Ruiz
  10. Gary, I had mine done by: Manual Transmission Warehouse-Sacramento (916) 441-2712 Owner: Richard 1220 C Street Between 12th & 13th Rebuilt Z with Nissan parts "Nachi" brand bearings 60 Days/6000 miles warranty 650.00 + tax = 738.00 This was in 2004 and the transmission still runs flawlessly. Dave Ruiz
  11. Grant, I would recommend the DVD "Street Suspensions" from Z Therapy. Also search for "Blue" and follow his suspension articles. From the looks of your sway bar I would also replace the end-link bushings and as many of the suspension bushings as possible. Good luck. Dave Ruiz
  12. Dave, Glad to know you're going to be around. I agree with Montezuma about people having a short fuse about using the search function on some other sites. I've enjoyed this site because of people like you and other transplants like Blue. Thanks for all of your help and I just want to let you know you are appreciated. Dave Ruiz
  13. Grant: Get the DVD from ZTherapy: "Street Suspensions". It shows you how to replace most of the suspension components on the Z Car. Dave Ruiz
  14. Go to Atlantic Z car club.com and look under the the "Z tech Tips". Look under Drivetrain" then "Moustache Bar". Dave Ruiz
  15. Powderkeg posted a post in a topic in Electrical
    If you want to throw Dave some business, have him rebuild your headlight/Turn signal switch. I also had him make a set of relays for my 280Z. They work great! I think Dave also did a write-up about making your own relays on the zhome.com website. Good luck with your project! Dave Ruiz
  16. Powderkeg posted a post in a topic in GARAGE BUSINESS
    Ron did the Timer clock that's in my Avatar. He does great work! Too bad I have to sell it! Dave Ruiz
  17. Powderkeg posted a post in a topic in Help Me !!
    I don't think the gas tank has any "unnecessary vents". I could be wrong though. Look into getting the POR-15 tank coating system. Also search on this site for removing the gas tank. It's not that difficult. Good luck. Dave Ruiz
  18. Chris, Contact Dave Irwin on this site. He can rebuild your switch or sell you a rebuilt one. His work is outstanding. He rebuilt mine for far less than a new one and it works great! Dave Ruiz
  19. Go the www.atlanticz.ca and read some of Blue's tech articles. They are a big help. You may want to get the DVD from Ztherapy "Street Racing Suspensions". Dave Ruiz
  20. Powderkeg posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    Also check the condition of the catalytic converter. As John Coffey suggested, get a tune up. Get a PRE smog check! You don't want to tagged as a gross polluter. The smog laws in California most likely are not going to get lenient. Good Luck. Dave Ruiz
  21. Cliff, I've used the ball and socket on my 76 280Z and it works really well. All the other bushings are urethane. Dave Ruiz
  22. I used the MSA kit with stock rubber bushings. This was over 3 years ago. I was using my Z as a daily driver for a while and it rode fine. Dave
  23. Adam, if you are still looking for a Z, I'm going to be selling my 76 mostly stock 280Z. I'm in California. Send me a PM (Personal message)for further details. Dave Ruiz
  24. ZSaint, Try mirrors from an early Mazda RX-7.
  25. Remove the fuse to the horn first or disconnect the neg battery cable. This keeps the horn from going off when you remove the horn pad. Make sure your wheels are pointing straight. Make a note of the position of the steering wheel. This helps to make sure the wheel is positioned properly when you go to put it back on. (You'll know if you get it wrong..it's no big deal though). Remove the horn pad. Push it in and turn. It should come right off. Loosen the large nut but don't remove it..it acts as a safety block. You'll understand in the next step. GENTLY tap the back of the wheel with rubber mallet or with your hands toward you. This is where the nut acts a s a block to keep the steering wheel from attacking you! OR use a steering wheel puller. If you use this method, you can remove the nut. Don't worry, this is really easy. You ALMOST can't screw it up. Just be careful with the steering wheel column threads. Make sure to torque the wheel nut to the proper specs. It's 29-36 ft/lbs for my 76 280Z. Dave Ruiz

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