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Powderkeg

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Everything posted by Powderkeg

  1. Dave , I'll PM you. Dave Ruiz
  2. Dave, I wish I would have known earlier that your brother wanted a 280Z. I'm going to be selling my 76 and it was converted to SU's back in 2004. Dave Ruiz
  3. Powderkeg posted a post in a topic in Interior
    Here ya go Gary! There's a tear at the top of the driver's seat that needs sewing but other than that they are in good shape. Dave
  4. Powderkeg posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    Chase, I had a 72 4-door 510 Automatic which I sold back in 2005. It was one of the biggest car mistakes I ever made! It was mostly stock. I bought it for $1000 in 2001. They are pretty easy to work on although parts aren't as available as they are for Z's. I'd be hard pressed to give you an estimate about the value. Basically it comes down to what you and the seller thinks it's worth. The one you have pictured is a nice vehicle that I would estimate would go for anywhere from $2000. I used to subscribe to the newsletter 510Again (now defunct) and The Dime Quarterly (also online). Check out the Dime Quarterly online. Some of the guys have done absolutely beautiful work on the their 510's. I would recommend getting one. They are really fun! Even stock but change the seats! Good Luck!
  5. Powderkeg posted a post in a topic in Interior
    Here's my 91 Honda CRX seats. I used the stock brackets and made a bracket with flat metal. They ride a little bit higher than the stock but they are a lot more comfortable. I like the lumbar adjustment. Now I have to decide what to do about the pair of Miata seats I have. Dave
  6. Powderkeg posted a post in a topic in Electrical
    Blue, You might give these terminals a try. They are allen bolts instead of the "particle board" equivalent bolt. Dave Ruiz
  7. Bob You should be able to rent a puller from an auto parts store. It operates like a steering wheel puller and should keep the ball joint intact. The other technique is to use a pickle fork but this may or may not keep the ball joint intact. I hate to ask the obvious but have you tried Black Dragon, MSA, Courtesy Nissan, Nissaparts.com, or your local auto parts store. The last time I checked ball joints were still readily available...but I could be wrong. You may want to get a DVD "Street Racing Suspensions" from ZTherapy too. It's very instructive if you are new to suspension work. Good Luck.
  8. Another alternative is : gas-tank.com or gastankrenu.com
  9. Call ZTherapy.
  10. Arizona Zcar Source 800-373-2532
  11. Bruce, Congratulations on the 10 year anniversary. I really enjoy the products from ZTherapy and wish you the best for another 10 years. 2001 holds more of a pleasant memory because that is the year I got married. Dave Ruiz
  12. Stephen, It sounds like your fuel filler hose could be the culprit. Can you see where the leak is when you fill up? If you decide to pull the tank make sure you replace all the fuel hoses as long as you have the tank out. Replace the sending unit O-ring as well. The only difficult fuel hose is the long hose with the 180 degree bend. If you decide to use POR-15 make sure you have about 4 warm days to allow the tank to dry. Also make sure the tank is ABSOLUTELY dry before you add the coating. I used a heat gun to get the seams of the tank (It took about 45 minutes). When you install the tank, attach the fuel filler hose first to the tank then feed it through the filler hole in the car. You can heat the hose to get it to fit through filler door hole. Dave Ruiz
  13. To attach the early air cleaner you need 2 bolts that screw into the carburetor. These bolts receive the wingnut bolt that attached the air cleaner cover to the body of the air cleaner. The part number for the receiving bolt is: 16517-25600 (2 required). The part number for the Cover bolt is : 16516-E3210 (2 required) Dave Ruiz
  14. Powderkeg posted a post in a topic in Introductions
    Frank, Your Z looks really clean...very nice! Any plans to "tinker' with it or are you going to leave it as is? Dave Ruiz
  15. Greenzee, You are correct. The above posts refer to removing the old bushings once the mustache bar is out of the car. Dave
  16. Powderkeg posted a post in a topic in Body & Paint
    Mark, The part numbers I have are: 65100-E4100 65100-E4200 65100-N4800 (these have the hood vent cut outs)77-78. Black dragon has them too: #99-700: 70-76 #99-703: 77-78 @$340.00 Dave Ruiz
  17. Powderkeg posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    I bought a cap from a 68-71 BMW 1600. BMW #: 16-11-1-103-603 Partstrain.com E2010-17553 alloemautoparts.com Dave Ruiz
  18. Left:The wheels that came with the car: Right: Replaced with Iron Cross: Dave Ruiz
  19. Daniel, Check with Ron Bradley at Zclocks.com. He can rebuild them. It's no cheap but he work is outstanding. Dave Ruiz
  20. Powderkeg posted a post in a topic in Help Me !!
    There is/was a guy that I think went by the name zhab who used to post to zcar.com. I believe he's he's out of Florida. I know he did the exact bumper replacement that you are looking to do and wrote it up. He did a very nice job. Dave Ruiz
  21. Daniel, The last one I saw on Ebay went for about $300.00 But in this market Who knows! Dave
  22. The Street Racing Suspensions DVD from ZThearpy is really helpful. Dave Ruiz
  23. Powderkeg posted a post in a topic in Carburetor Central
    I have a K&N on the SU's of my converted 76 280Z. If you watch the "Just SU's" DVD from Ztherapy, the former owner, Scott Bruning, said he had a study done and the result was the original air cleaner worked just fine. Maybe Bruce will chime in and offer an opinion. I like the idea of being able to reuse the filter. As Walter mentioned don't over oil the filter. Dave Ruiz
  24. Powderkeg posted a post in a topic in Electrical
    I'll attest to Dave's work as well. I bought the headlight harness for my 76 280, the parking light harness, and the combo switch rebuild. Plus he also helped me out when I added a distribution block. I highly recommend Dave's products! Dave Ruiz

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